To hold the box down, I would embed j-bolts in the concrete, not drill holes for any other fastener. Much more secure and less likely to get water in it that will break out the concrete around an anchor.
Marlon K. Schafer wrote: > Bob's right. I've always put in my own sidewalks and such. I also poured > my own slab for an addition to our house.... > > I'd add to what Bob said: > > If this is in an area that will freeze you might want to consider digging > your foundation down below the local frost line to help prevent this pad > from moving. They don't do it with transformers etc. out here so it's > probably not needed. But...... > > I'd at least dig down a couple of inches into the ground and frame up your > sides with 2x8 boards. Use screws not nails and/or make sure you STAKE it > very well. Concrete is amazingly heavy and blow outs suck. > > Rebar adds very little strength from what I'm told. But it will keep parts > from moving when the pad cracks (and it probably will). 1/2" rebar should > be fine. As Bob said, keep it away from the edges and top. I don't know > that it needs to be 8" though. I always use rebar for my sidewalks and it > doesn't crack at the bar. > > I'd also attach a ground wire to the rebar. When I did the pad for the > house I ran ground rods AND a ground to the rebar. The more the merrier. > > Don't forget to leave at least SOME slope to the pad. You want the water to > run off not pool up at the bottom of your box. > > You can build up the center of the pad with gravel (smash it down well) or > rocks (I like rocks) to save on the amount of concrete you need. > > Have fun! > marlon > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <lakel...@gbcx.net> > To: "WISPA General List" <wireless@wispa.org> > Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 8:22 AM > Subject: Re: [WISPA] Instructions/diagram for framing and pouring > concretepad? > > > >> John >> >> if all it is supporting is the nema cabinet just frame out the size you >> want making sure the sidewalls are real strong because you don't want a >> blowout of the wall. >> >> Lay out two levels of No. 4 rebar in a square configuration. Rebar should >> be minimum of 8 inches from top, bottom and sides. Use 4 small bricks or >> pavers to keep the lower level off the ground. Tie the two levels >> together. >> >> Pour, float, edge, dry, pull forms, mount box. >> >> It is not necessary to fill the center with rebar as there are no stresses >> against the center. >> >> If you are running any conduit inside or up thru the base make sure your >> stubs are metal. Nothing worse than breaking off pvc flush with the pad >> top! >> >> :-) >> >> No real structural issues here. >> >> Bob >> >> Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: "John McDowell" <j...@boonlink.com> >> >> Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 10:05:31 >> To: Motorola Canopy User Group<motor...@wispa.org>; WISPA General >> List<wireless@wispa.org> >> Subject: [WISPA] Instructions/diagram for framing and pouring concrete >> pad? >> >> >> I'm looking for a instructions or template on how to pour a small concrete >> pad as a base to a 4 x 2 x 2 NEMA box that I have. I would like for the >> pad >> to be up about 6" off the ground. Does anyone have a template or >> instructions for this? >> Thanks, >> >> -- >> John M. McDowell >> Boonlink Communications >> 307 Grand Ave NW >> Fort Payne, AL 35967 >> 256.844.9932 >> j...@boonlink.com >> www.boonlink.com >> >> >> >> >> >> >> This message contains information which may be confidential and >> privileged. >> Unless you are the addressee (or authorized to receive for the addressee), >> you may not use, copy, re-transmit, or disclose to anyone the message or >> any >> information contained in the message. If you have received the message in >> error, please advise the sender by reply e-mail j...@boonlink.com, and >> delete the message. E-mail communication is highly susceptible to >> spoofing, >> spamming, and other tampering, some of which may be harmful to your >> computer. 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