As Kurt said, always wrap from the bottom up. Think of it like shingling a roof; you wouldn't start at the peak and work down. If you stretch it below where you have the mastic and continue to stretch and wrap, it will hold, as long as you let up for those critical last couple and cut it at the TOP like Ryan said.
Most "vinyl flags" I've seen were at the bottom, and display the entire thing was wrapped incorrectly. Kurt's instruction are almost word for word what you'd find in an Andrews waterproofing kit. -----Original Message----- From: wireless-boun...@wispa.org [mailto:wireless-boun...@wispa.org] On Behalf Of D. Ryan Spott Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 7:36 AM To: WISPA General List Subject: Re: [WISPA] Moisture Abatement Techniques The rule is to never stretch the last 2 winds of the tape as you put it on... and ALWAYS *CUT* the tape, never rip it. Ripping implies stretching till failure. I can always tell who rips and who cuts on towers by the number of vinyl flags flapping when I climb by other antennas on the tower. ryan On Mar 2, 2010, at 4:54 AM, Mike wrote: > The trick to that is to NOT stretch the last couple wraps on the 33 > or 88. > Of course all bets are off if it's really cold. I keep a roll in my > pants > pocket for cold weather wraps. > > -----Original Message----- > From: wireless-boun...@wispa.org [mailto:wireless-boun...@wispa.org] > On > Behalf Of Greg Ihnen > Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 6:36 AM > To: WISPA General List > Subject: Re: [WISPA] Moisture Abatement Techniques > > Does't the glue on the Super-33 start to fail with time and you end > up with > the end of the tape coming loose and flapping in the wind? That's > why I like > to finish with the rubber tape. > > Greg > > On Mar 2, 2010, at 12:22 AM, Kurt Fankhauser wrote: > >> YES!!! This is how I seal connections, has never failed yet! >> >> 1. Tape a layer of Super-33 from the bottom up. Just one layer. >> 2. Put on a layer of the rubber tape from the bottom up. Just one >> layer. >> 3. Tape another layer up with the Super-33 again. From the bottom >> up as >> well. Just one layer. >> >> This system has worked great for 5 years and all my connections have > always >> been bone dry when taken apart with a utility knife. >> >> One thing I can tell you is it better be bone dry when you put this > together >> cause if its not then you just trapped the water in cause nothing is > getting >> in or out. >> >> I get the rubber tape at True Value hardware stores. Its less then >> $4 and >> does not leave a sticky mess when removed. It has a blue layer >> between >> itself on the role so the rubber does not stick together. Its >> always in > the >> same area as the electrical tape and electrical supplies. I guess >> its used >> widely by electricians. >> >> I showed a Two Way Radio technician that has 30+ years experience >> in RF my >> method and he was very impressed. >> >> Kurt Fankhauser >> WAVELINC >> P.O. Box 126 >> Bucyrus, OH 44820 >> 419-562-6405 >> www.wavelinc.com >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: wireless-boun...@wispa.org [mailto:wireless- >> boun...@wispa.org] On >> Behalf Of Greg Ihnen >> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 7:01 PM >> To: WISPA General List >> Subject: Re: [WISPA] Moisture Abatement Techniques >> >> Does anyone like the pure rubber self vulcanizing tape over the vinyl > tape? >> I like how that doesn't come loose over time. >> >> Greg >> >> On Mar 1, 2010, at 1:29 PM, Jerry Richardson wrote: >> >>> NS2's and other outdoor radios can take care of themselves. I add a > little >> seal around the cable exit on the bottom of the cover. The bullets >> make me > a >> little nervous - I don't trust the grommet that comes with them - a >> little >> sealer on the back at the cable exit is a good idea. >>> >>> This is how I was taught for RF connectors >>> >>> 3 layer process: >>> Layer 1 - 3M Super33 or Super88 electrical tape over the entire > connection >> extending 2" past the shrink wrap at both ends >>> Layer 2 - 3M Mastic 2229 over the electrical tape - squeeze >>> repeatedly to >> conform all of the seams to one contiguous seal >>> Layer 3 - 3M Super33 or Super88 over the Mastic - this is to keep >>> the >> mastic in place and for UV protection >>> >>> http://picasaweb.google.com/aircloud.com/AntennaCoaxSeal# >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: wireless-boun...@wispa.org [mailto:wireless- >>> boun...@wispa.org] On >> Behalf Of Israel Lopez-LISTS >>> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 9:46 AM >>> To: WISPA General List >>> Subject: [WISPA] Moisture Abatement Techniques >>> >>> Hey All, >>> >>> So how do you guys avoid getting water/moisture in your gear? >>> >>> I'm going to be standing up a 9 end-point network, with some >>> Ubiquiti >>> (Bullet2, Nanostation) gear, Directional & H-Pol Omni antennas, >>> Polyphasers, Ethernet Lightning Arrestors, etc,. I'm not going to >>> be >>> able to travel to the site again in at least a year; its a rainy >>> part of >>> the world, so I'd like to prevent any damage to the gear as much as >>> possible. >>> >>> Anything I should do to prevent moisture from getting into the >>> gear? Or >>> other protective measures... Teflon on the coax connectors, >>> Electrical >>> Tape on the Edges of the gear? If there was a place I could see >>> some >>> pictures of the implementations that would be good too. >>> >>> -Israel >>> >>> >>> >> > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> ---- >>> WISPA Wants You! 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