Africa dressed up with no place to go
  By John Matshikiza
  Mail & Guardian Online | 09 May 2005 
http://www.mg.co.za/articlePage.aspx?articleid=237513&area=/columnist__john_matshikiza/
  

I have it on pretty good authority (and my sources seldom fail me �
since I am one of them myself) that the Senegalese capital of Dakar is
giving Johannesburg and Durban a pretty good run for their money when
it comes to staging international conferences with an African bent.
The rise of the African conference city is now being called the New
Nepad Nexus.

In the last week alone in Dakar, there has been Unesco's conference on
"Media and Good Governance", Shell's "Africa Country Chair -Meeting"
(whatever that means, although it sounds pretty sinister) and the
"African Gender Forum 2005" � to name but a few.
All of these have taken place at the fabulously expensive Meridian
President hotel some kilometres out of town, built by the largesse of
King Fahd of Saudi Arabia � hence the very Mecca-friendly blue and
turquoise tiled dome that crowns its conference centre, a particularly
user-unfriendly labyrinth of lifts and staircases and windowless rooms.

The ceaseless round of conferences seem to be identically and
simultaneously all dressed up with no place to go. Professional
conference-goers, NGO functionaries and CIA agents feign surprise at
seeing each other checking in at the reception desk. "Hi!" they say
-suspiciously to each other in a cacophony of NGO accents. "Which one
are you going to?" "The Shell one," comes the reply. "Oh, I'd have
thought you were more of the gender type," comes the rejoinder. "I
guess I'll have better luck next time," goes the leering response �
neither one quite knowing what it is they are leering about.

And so they part company at the lifts on the sixth floor and retire
down the long, carpeted corridors to their rooms, where they each
spend the next 12 hours poring over vague conference documents that
will hopefully tell them what the hell it is that they are doing there.

They are not helped by a comedy of errors, designed by a well-paid
think-tank at the United Nations building in New York, that has their
English-speaking, NGO-speak world cast adrift on the turbulent waters
of decidedly Franco-Islamic Senegal.

The country, meanwhile, has -cleverly spawned a whole sub--industry of
corrupt conference organisers who cream a substantial percentage off
the top of each project (themselves having no clue as to what is
supposed to be achieved by the event) in exchange for providing a
hospitality desk at the hotel entrance, staffed by extremely pretty
but totally uncommunicative "hostesses". If you manage to get one who
has a vague interest in improving her English skills, you have struck
lucky. But believe me, even if you speak fluent French, you are faced
with plenty of uphill. Like everyone else in the country, they have
been given absolutely no incentive for being there, apart from the
chance to wear a rather elegant designer uniform and a pair of black
high-heeled shoes.

It is not hard to imagine a jet-lagged, world-weary media/gender
expert stumbling into the wrong conference and only waking up (often
literally) to his or her mistake two days later. Alone in a darkened
and now deserted room, you are about to rise to your feet and give
your stock concluding contribution to the list of conference
resolutions when you realise that everyone else has left. Puzzled, you
stuff your conference papers and half-eaten sandwiches into your
Bandung II briefcase and rush out of the room, looking for that
familiar blue hostess uniform with its red sash. Instead you find a
whole new team of hostess chickies wearing grey shirts with black ties
lining the walls. They shake their heads pityingly, shrugging that
they know nothing about media, and especially gender. And especially
gender in the media, or media and good -governance or, for that
matter, good -governance and gender, just in case you were going to
ask. More than her job's worth.

There is more than a whiff in this of the vast gulf that separates
these unbelievably expensive shindigs and the constituencies whose
cause they claim to espouse. Ordinary people and their issues are
never anywhere near the conference room. In fact, they are kept
studiously at arms length, hidden away beyond well fortified gates
with armed guards, their daily lives growing steadily worse in the
sewage-lined quartiers populairs as the black presidential motorcades
sweep towards another meeting with destiny in the air -conditioned
sanctity of the King Fahd conference complex. And -others of that ilk
dotted up and down the globe.

One of my well-connected informants on the ground reminds me over
dinner that the poverty alleviation business is the biggest industry
in the world at the present time. This may be a slight exaggeration,
given the relentless spread of Coca-Cola and the Chinese steel and
textile industries, among others.

But the point is well taken. Aid agencies wring their hands over the
fact that the massacres and rapes of innocents at Darfur in Southern
Sudan will continue at least until the end of next year � which means
that they will not have to look elsewhere to keep themselves busy for
at least that period of time. And, of course, much grist for the
international conference mill will be generated to keep ancillary
industries making a decent turnover. And at least there will be a
semblance of job creation achieved in the production of thick
documents that say very little, and ever more inventive uniforms for
conference hostesses who don't have a clue.

Dakar and Durban and Johannesburg, the back-slapping Nepad Nexus, will
feel mightily empowered as Third World hosts of First World-style
conferences.

Apart from that, nothing much will have changed.






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