Chopsuey, sauces and fried rice

  By SARAH JOHN
  The Hindu | July 3, 2003
  http://www.hindu.com/mag/2005/07/03/stories/2005070300370800.htm
  

(Simmered, steamed, stewed and fried ... and hot, sour and sweet ... .
Eating food in Dragonland was no disappointment.)


ON a recent visit to the People's Republic of China, there was much
speculation about the food we would have. After all, Chinese food is
perhaps the most popular throughout the world. So, to eat it, in
China, was something we had listed as a priority. And we were not
disappointed. Our experiences opened up a whole new world about
Chinese food.

Food is central in the Chinese culture, and, as we found out, in/to
their medicine also. Chinese medicine, they say, is an extension of
their food. Such is the confidence the Chinese have in their food
habits and their herbal medicines, that western medicine finds the
going tough. When we visited the Institute for Research for Chinese
Medicine in Beijing, they proudly, and convincingly, impress upon you
the effectiveness of the Chinese medicine, with its lack of
side-effects. In the modern pace and style of life, this medicinal
system is seen as a way to prevent the breaking down of the body's
natural defences and to maintain its balance.

In China's towns and cities, wayside food-stalls are a great
attraction, especially on weekends. You can buy anything, from steamed
dumplings to grilled meats, to hot soups to pancakes or candied fresh
fruit. Steaming, boiling, stir-frying, deep-frying, grilling or
pickling seem to be the most common ways of food preparation. We
watched throngs of people nonchalant about the giant advertisements
for Kentucky Fried Chicken and MacDonalds in town-squares. What
attracted them were the appetising aromas of traditional Chinese food
in the evening air .

Yet western fast-food giants are doing good business, especially in
the Chinese cities, where there is plenty of disposable income. Even
Starbucks Coffee is sold in posh malls and food-courts frequented by
affluent Chinese. The young are willing to experiment. One can only
hope that once the novelty is over, they will return to their
traditional, more healthy food habits. The results of changing eating
habits include an increasing number of obese youngsters in urban China.

The Chinese breakfast

The Chinese breakfast buffet in hotels is educative. To the stranger,
it seems odd to be drinking hot soups and porridges alongside steaming
dumplings with different fillings, so early in the morning. Boiled egg
is a popular side-dish. With such a substantial breakfast, one is
ready to face anything the day may bring! But, lunch is substantial
too, with rice and different vegetables. Meat is almost always mixed
with vegetables, which is a healthy way to consume animal protein.
Chinese cuisine is almost as full of variety as the Indian cuisine,
and with huge regional differences.

Both at informal and formal meals, food is served on big platters and
bowls and kept on a lazy susan (a revolving inner circle on a table).
Each guest gets a small porcelain plate and a small bowl to eat from.
A cup for tea and a glass for water or a drink are placed on the side.
Solids are eaten with chopsticks, and liquids are either drunk
straight from the bowl— often with a slurp— or from a porcelain spoon
used for the purpose. Serving spoons are scant. Guests serve
themselves, and replenish their servings with their own chopsticks.
Somehow, this sharing from common bowls does not seem to bother the
Chinese!

Tea-drinking in China is very different from the way we, Indians, are
used to it. We were curious about the bottles carried around
constantly. These are taken to work, on train or bus-journeys, and
even on walks. We found out that each individual carries his/her
favourite "tea" wherever he/she may go, and drinks it throughout the
day. The solids at the bottom of the bottle are dried leaves or
flowers, which steep in hot water, as it is replenished all day long.
This refreshment is obviously the healthy alternative to the western
preference for daily doses of diet-sodas. Different teas have
different medicinal or soothing effects, which each individual can
choose from. One unfortunate, long-term side-effect may be the
discolouring of teeth. This concern however, we were told by our young
guide, is overridden by the health benefits attributed by the Chinese
to their teas.

The "Hotpot"

The "Hotpot" beat everything we had ever tasted before. We had the
opportunity to enjoy it in a group, and later, on a smaller scale for
two. A large tureen of mutton-stock, spiced with herbs, is placed in
the centre of the table. Its temperature is kept constant using live,
smokeless coal. Each guest at the table gets a platter full of raw
food, paper-thin slices of beef, lamb, pork or fowl, different types
of green leaves plucked fresh, and sea-food. Several little bowls of
special sauces are kept in front of each guest, along with a
quarter-plate and chopsticks. Each guest picks up the raw food with
chopsticks, dips it in the bowl of simmering stock to cook very
quickly, and eats it on the quarter-plate accompanied by a sauce of
choice. This heavenly dish originated in Mongolia, we were told, and
has become one of the most popular dishes in China.

We ate at the railway canteen, inside the train, and also watched
stall-owners in open markets eat their home-cooked lunch at mid-day.
It was never boring. Like in India, the smells and colours never
failed to excite, and our mouths were forever watering! Not once were
we sick from food either. We ate in five-star to three-star
restaurants. Only on one occasion did we have the feeling that the
food was not fresh, and that was outside the Beijing railway station,
where they probably did not have the same guests twice! Cleanliness
was comparable to standards in India, although there was evidence of
attempts to make Beijing fulfil western standards before the Olympics. 






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