Re: Pismo/Lombard brick adapter
Nestamicky wrote: Suddenly both of my brick PSU for my Pismo started shedding off the outer black wire, revealing the inner wire. The inner wire...presumably the negative...then cut off into two halfs; one side off to the brick, and the other to the tip that goes into the PB. But the wire is still held onto the brick by another wire that seems solid. Anyone opened these before and willing to share ideas on how I could open the brick, get some leverage...as this happened, on both, very close to the brick itself...and reconnect the cable? The brick itself works, just the cable that cut, without anyone taking a knife to it. I suggest to change it ... brick adapter was recalled by Apple because getting fire! yoyo is nice and relatively cheap on ebay Angelo -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Books, a group for those using G3 iBooks and PowerBooks (we run a separate list for G4 'Books). The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-books.html and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g-books@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to g-books+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g-books Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/
Re: Pismo/Lombard brick adapter
On 1/10/10 3:18 AM, Angelo Danio angelo.da...@gmail.com wrote: Nestamicky wrote: Suddenly both of my brick PSU for my Pismo started shedding off the outer black wire, revealing the inner wire. The inner wire...presumably the negative...then cut off into two halfs; one side off to the brick, and the other to the tip that goes into the PB. But the wire is still held onto the brick by another wire that seems solid. Anyone opened these before and willing to share ideas on how I could open the brick, get some leverage...as this happened, on both, very close to the brick itself...and reconnect the cable? The brick itself works, just the cable that cut, without anyone taking a knife to it. I suggest to change it ... brick adapter was recalled by Apple because getting fire! yoyo is nice and relatively cheap on ebay Angelo Actually, based on the comments I've seen on this list... Most people seem to think the brick is actually superior to the YoYo. As I understand it, the Wallstreet bricks (the small ones) run hot, but aren't a problem if reasonable care is taken. OTOH, the YoYo adapters have a habit of failing from stress at the point where the cord enters the hub. (I personally have one which has failed such that it will power but not recharge the battery of a Pismo.) The adapter interface was pretty much standard all the way back to the Duo 210 (except for the 1x0 series, 500-series and 190/5300 PowerBooks). As long as you stay to a minimum wattage (45?) any of them should work with a Pismo. John -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Books, a group for those using G3 iBooks and PowerBooks (we run a separate list for G4 'Books). The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-books.html and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g-books@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to g-books+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g-books Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/
Re: Pismo/Lombard brick adapter
On Jan 10, 2010, at 8:48 AM, John Ruschmeyer wrote: On 1/10/10 3:18 AM, Angelo Danio angelo.da...@gmail.com wrote: Nestamicky wrote: Suddenly both of my brick PSU for my Pismo started shedding off the outer black wire, revealing the inner wire. The inner wire...presumably the negative...then cut off into two halfs; one side off to the brick, and the other to the tip that goes into the PB. But the wire is still held onto the brick by another wire that seems solid. Anyone opened these before and willing to share ideas on how I could open the brick, get some leverage...as this happened, on both, very close to the brick itself...and reconnect the cable? The brick itself works, just the cable that cut, without anyone taking a knife to it. I suggest to change it ... brick adapter was recalled by Apple because getting fire! yoyo is nice and relatively cheap on ebay Angelo Actually, based on the comments I've seen on this list... Most people seem to think the brick is actually superior to the YoYo. As I understand it, the Wallstreet bricks (the small ones) run hot, but aren't a problem if reasonable care is taken. OTOH, the YoYo adapters have a habit of failing from stress at the point where the cord enters the hub. (I personally have one which has failed such that it will power but not recharge the battery of a Pismo.) The adapter interface was pretty much standard all the way back to the Duo 210 (except for the 1x0 series, 500-series and 190/5300 PowerBooks). As long as you stay to a minimum wattage (45?) any of them should work with a Pismo. John I have two Wally's both have the original Apple 45 watt brick the one with the cable exiting at a 45 deg angle, that may be a reason for failure due to having to pay attention to the attitude of the devise when in use. I always pay close attention to all my legacy equipment because it's getting a little harder to find items that were not abused. I also have an after market unit made by a company called HI CAPACITY power products part # AC-35 60 watt for my 190s. They are a good quality product so if I needed one for my Pismo I would check them out for availability. However there is no reason you can't repair the brick as long as it's not fried.:-) John Carmonne Yorba Linda USA -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Books, a group for those using G3 iBooks and PowerBooks (we run a separate list for G4 'Books). The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-books.html and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g-books@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to g-books+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g-books Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/
Re: Pismo/Lombard brick adapter
On 1/10/10 10:14 AM, John Carmonne wrote: I always pay close attention to all my legacy equipment because it's getting a little harder to find items that were not abused. I also have an after market unit made by a company called HI CAPACITY power products part # AC-35 60 watt for my 190s. They are a good quality product so if I needed one for my Pismo I would check them out for availability. However there is no reason you can't repair the brick as long as it's not fried.:-) All the comments so far is that the bricks were recalled and I must not use. But mine have worked well until this peeling that cuts, I believe, the negative wire. Anyone here who has opened these things and can offer some help. You can't see a single screw on them, so help would be great. Thanks guys! -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Books, a group for those using G3 iBooks and PowerBooks (we run a separate list for G4 'Books). The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-books.html and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g-books@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to g-books+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g-books Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/
Re: Pismo/Lombard brick adapter
Nestamicky wrote: On 1/10/10 10:14 AM, John Carmonne wrote: I always pay close attention to all my legacy equipment because it's getting a little harder to find items that were not abused. I also have an after market unit made by a company called HI CAPACITY power products part # AC-35 60 watt for my 190s. They are a good quality product so if I needed one for my Pismo I would check them out for availability. However there is no reason you can't repair the brick as long as it's not fried.:-) All the comments so far is that the bricks were recalled and I must not use. But mine have worked well until this peeling that cuts, I believe, the negative wire. Anyone here who has opened these things and can offer some help. You can't see a single screw on them, so help would be great. Thanks guys! First take the sticker off along one of the long sides. One half of the case snaps into the other. I can't tell you which side is which so you'll have to figure that out yourself. Try pressing in one side then the other to see which has some give. When separate a little bit of them then start working your way along the whole way. It's not too hard. It helps if you have a spudger, a tool you can stick into the gap and pry them apart. I have fixed them before. In one case the plug was bad but I had a cable from a dead Duo power supply which I grafted on to the end of the cable giving me a power supply with a very long DC cable. In a more recent case the plug was again bad and I couldn't fix it so it's on the shelf until a power supply goes bad again. -- Clark Martin Redwood City, CA, USA Macintosh / Internet Consulting I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Books, a group for those using G3 iBooks and PowerBooks (we run a separate list for G4 'Books). The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-books.html and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g-books@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to g-books+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g-books Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/
Pismo/Lombard brick adapter
Suddenly both of my brick PSU for my Pismo started shedding off the outer black wire, revealing the inner wire. The inner wire...presumably the negative...then cut off into two halfs; one side off to the brick, and the other to the tip that goes into the PB. But the wire is still held onto the brick by another wire that seems solid. Anyone opened these before and willing to share ideas on how I could open the brick, get some leverage...as this happened, on both, very close to the brick itself...and reconnect the cable? The brick itself works, just the cable that cut, without anyone taking a knife to it. -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Books, a group for those using G3 iBooks and PowerBooks (we run a separate list for G4 'Books). The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-books.html and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g-books@googlegroups.com To leave this group, send email to g-books+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g-books Support for older Macs: http://lowendmac.com/services/