Re: [RBW] Re: TRP RRL vs Shimano Tiagra

[DavidP]

I've used the standard Tektro RL340 levers for over 10 years, have had a 
bike with TRP RRLs for the past few years, and recently built a bike with 
the Shimanos.

I've heard/read more than once that the Tektros are based on the Campagnolo 
brifter hood shape, with many citing the extra width vs Shimano hoods being 
more comfortable.

The RRLs are similar to the standard Tektro levers but with some ergonomic 
changes (TRP is Tektro Racing Products, so the same company). I like them 
but they are a bit more modern and look better on a bike built to suit.

With the Shimanos I was a little concerned going in that the narrower hoods 
might result in feeling more pressure. Thankfully that hasn't been the case 
but the bike I have them on has very little saddle to bar drop (48cm 
Noodles). The reach on the Shimanos is noticeably less due to the smaller 
body and that suits this bike / bar position as well. I don't have a lot of 
miles on them yet but so far like them at least as much as the other levers.

Your mention of 52cm Noodles has me curious about the use of the bike? My 
drop bar mountain bike has the 52cm XL version of the Beacons that Jeff 
uses and I really like the width and shallow drop for leverage on trails, 
but that bike has the top of the bar above saddle height. On a more roadish 
bike like your Homer or the Pescadero I just rebuilt, the 48cm Noodles feel 
quite wide.

When comparing to the Albatross keep in mind that the feel of the reach 
decreases when your hands are closer together. I find my preferred stem 
length for Albatross bars is 30-40mm longer then with drops, but that's for 
more standard width drops (42-44cm range). Wider drops tend to need to be 
set closer and higher.

-Dave (near Boston)

On Tuesday, May 21, 2024 at 10:37:43 PM UTC-4 ttoshi wrote:

> For me, the big difference is whether or not I am riding in the drops or 
> on the hoods.  For descents, I often will ride in the drops to reduce wind 
> resistance and the TRP levers with the outward bend make it easier to brake 
> while in the drops.  However, I find the Shimano levers more comfortable on 
> the hoods.
>
> Nevertheless, I tend to ride more in the drops than the hoods, so TRPs are 
> the winner for me.
>
> Toshi in Oakland
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Cameras On Bikes

[DavidP]

Another Ricoh GR user - my 1st gen is still going strong nearly after 10 
years. Still love the image quality. Almost upgraded to a GRIII last year 
(mostly for IS), but decided to stick with the one I have.

I bought the GR after my RX100 failed (stuck lens mechanism) because I 
wasn't careful about where I stored it on a bike ride (fairly obvious but 
don't let your camera sit in a bag that comes into contact with a frame 
tube). My favorite features of the RX100 were the pano mode and the custom 
self-timer (basically a built in intervalometer).

I sometimes stick my EOS R with a small lens in a waist pack, but usually 
bring the GR in a stem bag or handlebar bar bag (just no contact with the 
bike!).

-Dave

On Wednesday, May 15, 2024 at 1:49:37 PM UTC-4 Bones wrote:

> I typically leave my phone home when I go out for rides, unless I’m 
> commuting to work. GR IIIx works well for me. It fits easily into a loosely 
> cinched stem bag, where I can grab it whenever I want. I shoot exclusively 
> in snap focus mode on this camera. Quick and easy. Occasionally I even take 
> nice pictures.
>
> Bones
>
> On Wednesday, May 15, 2024 at 12:27:54 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I enjoy the sometimes very good quality (composition as well as 
>> reproductive quality) of the photos shared on this list, so all you good 
>> photographers please buy better cameras.
>>
>> Me, I'd like to learn how to take distance shots with an old iPhone, tho' 
>> very possibly it's not possible. I tried to take a wide shot of Canada 
>> geese and white (crested?) herons and various other wildfowl yesterday at a 
>> nearby nature open space but the results were so poor that I had to discard 
>> them. [I don't want an additional apparatus of a dedicated camera.]
>>
>> I remember there was an iBoblist fad back in the early aughts, before 
>> this list existed, of taking bike ride photos with those very primitive and 
>> very cheap early-Chinese manufacturing stick cameras that you could pick up 
>> for $4 or even as free giveaways everywhere, then uploading them via some 
>> file management system using a software with very primitive user interface. 
>> I was surprised at the quality of some of these photos, including distance 
>> and even panoramic shots; all these with unadjustable plastic lenses. Kent 
>> Peterson IIRC posted some wonderful photos this way, and even I managed 
>> some that were as good as most I take with my iPhone8. 
>>
>> On Wed, May 15, 2024 at 12:53 AM Keith P.  wrote:
>>
>>> “Bicycles” is a sport you can spend just about as much as you want to on 
>>> - so it stands to reason that so many of you seem to be enamored with the 
>>> “money-pit” hobby of photography as well.
>>>
>>> All of us have our phone cameras with us on bike rides, but do you have 
>>> a secondary carry? How do you like it? Is this enough of a Rivendell 
>>> related topic to merit being on here? Perhaps as long as we post photos of 
>>> us taking photos, whilst *on* our bikes.
>>>
>>> Either way, I appreciated everyone’s responses on the hijacked *Springtime 
>>> Photos *thread enough to compile some images:
>>>
>>> [image: Bracaglia-OlympusXA-04.jpeg]
>>>
>>> Keith Paugh - Olympus XA
>>>
>>> I recently picked up this little gem. It fits perfectly in the back 
>>> pocket of a jersey. Maybe not the sharpest camera out there, but I’m not 
>>> the sharpest photographer either. 
>>>
>>> [image: Olympuszoom80_CuteCameraCo_Front_1400x.jpeg]
>>>
>>> Ian M. - Olympus Stylus Epic
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/38c6b661-de76-40d4-9261-1e65f0351cden%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> ---
>>
>> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
>> services
>>
>>
>> ---
>>
>> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>>
>> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>>
>> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Upright / Relaxed / Swept-Back - Style of Riding

[DavidP]

If you don't have a cruiser-y / townie type bike for more laid back or 
utilitarian rides, and you have the space and ability to have another bike 
then I'd definitely recommend an additional bike for this. Though if you 
have a couple of aggressive drop bar bikes it's certainly possible to 
convert one for this use.

Albatross and Billie bars are versatile because they can be setup to offer 
a range of back angle positions depending on where you place your hands. 
 I've found that using a stem 30-40mm longer than my drop bar stem puts the 
grips of the Albatross bar in a more upright position than the tops of the 
drop bar, and moving my hands up to the bends feels like riding on the 
hoods. You can get even lower by moving into the hooks of the Albatross bar 
and bending your elbows. 

Tosco bars (which I have on my Platypus) can do similar things but are just 
a bit less roadish.

On most sweptback bars my primary cruising position is usually between the 
grips and the bends with the heel of the my hand resting on the grips, the 
palm of my hand over the brake lever clamp (a low profile clamp is good 
here), and a couple of fingers resting on/forward of the brake lever body.

You asked if sweptback bars might be good for riding 1-2 hours. They 
certainly are, but with the range of positions they offer they are also 
good for rides even longer than that!

-Dave





On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 9:58:54 AM UTC-4 Jay wrote:

> Thanks for the responses!  Keep’em coming
>
> Tim had some good questions, I’ve tried to answer these below:
>
> “…off the bike?”
> - I have a desk job but I use a sit / stand desk.  Years ago when I got 
> this, it was a revelation, and really helped a much worse than now, neck; 
> however, I notice my legs get tired when I’m standing, and again, if I go 
> for a ride after work, and I’ve been sitting/standing 50-50, my tired legs, 
> I believe contribute to feeling sluggish on the bike, and perhaps a poor 
> posture as I have limited power
> - I walk a lot, stretch, and practice good posture off the bike
>
>
> I thought I would add that I visit my chiropractor for an adjustment every 
> three weeks. The days shortly after, I am more comfortable on the bike. 
>  For example, two days after my last adjustment I did a road ride with my 
> friend, 85km with wind and even snow, I felt great. A few days ago I did a 
> 60km ride with my friend on a perfect day with very little wind, and was 
> really sore.  I have a chiro appointment tonight.  As I get close to the 
> end of that three weeks, I can feel more pain and thus attribute what’s 
> happening to the spine in the three weeks in between adjustments.  This is 
> the closest I have to a good diagnosis!
>
> Jason
>
> On May 9, 2024, at 7:50 AM, Tim Bantham  wrote:
>
> 
>
> There is a lot to unpack here but I think I get the basic gist of what you 
> are asking. For reference I ride a drop bar AHH, a drop bar Sam and a 
> Billie bar'd Platy. I'm an older rider and I too suffer some aches and 
> pains while riding. Nothing debilitating but it is noticeable. Sometimes 
> more than others. Like you I experience some aches in my C spine between 
> the shoulder blades. This is from holding my head in a position to see the 
> road in front of me. I am also seated at a computer most of the day while 
> working which can be harmful to your posture if you aren't vigilant. 
>
>  I am not so certain your pain is related to not maintaining a good 
> posture on the bike while riding. I'm not a medical professional and I 
> don't think you would come here for medical advice. At least I hope not 
> LOL! 
>
> I would want to know what you are doing off the bike. You didn't say what 
> you did for work but if are spending your days sitting at a desk and then 
> you hop on your bike to go ride. Your body is in a hunched position all day 
> long and then you are in the same position while you pedal. If that were 
> the case I could see how some aches and pains could crop up. 
>
> Riding an upright style bike on days where you aren't feeling it may help 
> but I'd be more inclined to shorten your ride or not ride at all. Also pay 
> attention to your posture off the bike. Having awareness of your posture 
> during your day to day life will be more beneficial then only making those 
> adjustments while riding. 
> On Thursday, May 9, 2024 at 12:56:14 AM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> @Jay,
>>
>> I have been a roadie for 53 years. I retired my road bike sixteen years 
>> ago. I was growing old. I became tired of riding in the drops. I wanted to 
>> ride upright. My posture in my neck and shoulders were hunched over. 
>>
>> Over the many years, it became a struggle with me trying to find a 
>> bicycle that I could fall in love with again. I went through about four 
>> different bicycles. 
>>
>> In the fall of 2022, I purchased my first Rivendell Clem Smith Jr. "L" 
>> bicycle. It was a 59cm. Over the course of a little over a year, I 
>> concluded that 

[RBW] Re: Bar Tape and/or Grips on an Albatross Bar

[DavidP]

I'd imagine you'd want to slice the grips anyway to provide a channel for 
the shift cables to run through, so slicing then wrapping should be fine. 

You could also twine along with bar tape. Here are a few variations on 
that: 
https://bluelug.com/bike-catalog/16815/
https://bluelug.com/bike-catalog/16524/
https://bluelug.com/bike-catalog/16827/
https://bluelug.com/bike-catalog/16521/

-Dave

On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 4:37:14 PM UTC-4 Doug H. wrote:

> Hi all,
> I just recently installed Albatrass bars on my new to me Roadini. I also 
> installed bar end shifters. I'm thinking I'll wrap Newbaums tape for grips 
> but am considering some padding in the grip area. Has anyone used padding 
> or been able to slide an ESI type of grip over the shifters? I've also 
> considered splitting an ESI grip and wrapping that with Newbaums. Any 
> examples or ideas would be most appreciated.
> Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: Drops vs albatross. Easy to swap or do I need two bikes?

[DavidP]

While it's possible to swap back and forth between Albatross bars and drop 
bars, and there are some setup tricks that could facilitate this, I would 
not be eager to do it regularly.

As Mathias demonstrated you'd need a much longer stem on the Albatross bike 
(30-40mm longer) to have similar positions, which can make cabling that 
works for both tricky.

Using downtube shifters would completely eliminate the need to touch the 
shifters and cabling. I have a bike that has the front shifter on the 
downtube and the rear shifter on a thumbie mount clamped to the stem - a 
setup that also would require no change to swap stem and bar. Hinged 
thumbies clamped to the bar could be setup with cable lengths that would 
work with both bar/stem combos. Bar end shifters would be the most work, 
requiring the cable to be pulled for each swap.

Brakes are trickier, but cable disconnects designed for travel bikes could 
be one way to speed up the required cable swap.

I'd be more inclined to setup two bikes and differentiate them a bit in use 
(e.g. put racks and a basket on the Albatross bike), which is how I 
"justify" my overlapping bikes.

Sam and Appaloosa would be a good pairing, though I'd be tempted to go with 
a Homer for a bit more separation.

-Dave

On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 7:11:58 AM UTC-4 Tim Bantham wrote:

> You could build the Sam with Albatross bars and it would serve your needs 
> perfectly as a graveler and bike path cruiser. You could also do that 100 
> mile ride with Albatross bars if you wanted. That said I do understand the 
> desire for drops. I have those on my Sam. I've also had Billie bars and 
> Albatross as well. All were great but different.  Swapping bars is not that 
> difficult but there is an expense. You'll need a different stem, levers, 
> grips. While doable to swap it wouldn't be practical to swap back in forth.
>
> If you wanted to add a second bike either a Appaloosa or an Atlantis with 
> upright bars would be a great choice. These bikes are different enough from 
> the Sam to justify the additional bike in your stable. 
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 2:23:08 AM UTC-4 Michael wrote:
>
>> Looking for a single bike for casual rides on bike 
>> paths/paved/gravel/dirt roads with the occasional 100 mile ride thrown in. 
>> Will suggest the Sam Hillborne, which I'm leaning towards. I assumed I 
>> would build it with drops for the long rides but I recently fell in love 
>> with albatross bars for upright lazy bike path rides. 
>> Is there a way to quickly/easily swap handlebars or are two bikes 
>> inevitable? 
>> Would a Sam with drops and an appaloosa or atlantis w/ albatross be a 
>> good combo or is that too much overlap? 
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Cockpit bag/cup holder

[DavidP]

My Platypus has an Outer Shell Stem Caddy 
, which I've used to carry water 
bottles (of various shapes and sizes), a camera, binoculars, or my phone. 
One feature is the webbing that runs along the bottom allowing another 
strap to be passed underneath if you want to stabilize using the fork crown 
or - as I do - run a strap to your front rack, fulfilling the dual purpose 
of stabilizing your bag and also providing the Riv suggested safety 
strap/support for certain front racks.

-Dave

On Monday, April 29, 2024 at 5:45:20 PM UTC-4 Brian Turner wrote:

> Another vote for Randi Jo’s Bartender (specifically her “Plus” model 
> because it has an extra external pocket - I sometimes fit my iPhone in 
> there when other stuff is in the main compartment):
> [image: EJR05663_600x.jpg]
>
> Bartender Plus 
> randijofab.com 
> 
>
>
>
> On Apr 29, 2024, at 5:24 PM, 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
> This one:
>
>
> 
>
> Mountain Feedbag - Cockpit 
> 
> revelatedesigns.com 
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>  
> 
>
>
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com
> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>
> On Apr 29, 2024, at 1:46 PM, James  wrote:
>
> What is the best cockpit cup holder ya'll have explored and used?  Ideally 
> it could alos hold a phone at times, and be somewhat versatile with cups, 
> bottles, etc. 
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Long wheelbase = long chain

[DavidP]

My Platypus requires 116 + 12 links. I use two chains with two quicklinks. 
I don't bother about spacing the quicklinks equally between two 64 link 
sections but others may.

-Dave

On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 12:51:46 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> Ebike chains come in extra long links. Figure out how much you need and 
> buy one close. 
>
> On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 11:47:47 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Rivendell themselves buy "chain" in enormous continuous bulk, so they can 
>> use a single chain for a build.  I buy my long chains from Riv.  In the 
>> past, when I've been impatient and wanted to do something in the stand 
>> "RIGHT NOW" I've just used two quick links and a subset of a second chain. 
>>  Sometimes, what's left of the second chain is still long enough for a 
>> single speed build, etc.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 7:57:12 AM UTC-7 Edwin W wrote:
>>
>>> I have a Joe Appa with long chain stays, which necessitates a long 
>>> chain, longer than a single chain.
>>>
>>> For all of you out there with a long chain bike, what are your best 
>>> tips/tricks/techniques for purchasing a chain. Where do you go for a long 
>>> chain?
>>>
>>> What else do you think about with chain replacement, maintenance, etc...
>>>
>>> Lifelong learner, breaking cobbled together chains,
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Favorite clip-in/flat pedal combo?

[DavidP]

John,

I use SPD pedals on my "pure" road bike, my most road-ish mixed surface 
bikes get combo pedals, and everything else gets flat pedals.
For combo SPD/flat pedals, I have the VP-R62 on one bike, which seems no 
longer available. But I have a few pairs of the very similar Venzo dual 
function pedals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084GHVVFP/

They all work great, but I prefer the ones with at least a few pins on the 
flat side. The silver VP pedals have them, but the Venzo's that are most 
like the VPs do not - only a concern if you must have silver.

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 4:42:16 PM UTC-4 Glen wrote:

> Following on to this; has anyone here used the MKS ezy pedal system to 
> easily swap between flats and clipless?
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 1:41:02 PM UTC-6 John Bokman wrote:
>
>> Rivsters: 
>>
>> I've ridden many many years on Speedplay Frogs with great enjoyment.
>> I've also ridden for years on flat pedals (MKS Sylvan Touring are my 
>> favorite) with great enjoyment.
>>
>> I'm now curious about trying something I thought I'd never try: A 
>> clipless-flat combo pedal.  Because there are times  - especially on longer 
>> rides - when I want more foot support than my flat pedals provide. (Yes, 
>> I've used larger flat pedals - VP Vice - and found no effective difference 
>> to my MKS Sylvan in this regard.)
>>
>> So for those of you who still ride clipless, and who in fact use a combo 
>> pedal: What's your favorite?
>>
>> John
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Bike build day: Atlantis w/ Bullmoose & '81 Trek 510 Jean-Luc Picard

[DavidP]

The Atlantis looks great, but I love that Trek.

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 24, 2024 at 4:24:18 PM UTC-4 exliontamer wrote:

> Put the Bullmoose on the Atlantis & I'm loving them. They really fit my 
> short torso/long arms on the Atlantis. I have the stem maxed out in the 
> photo for posterity's sake in case anyone in the future needs a reference. 
> It's a 61cm Atlantis (Toyo) with an 81cm saddle height (center of bb to top 
> of saddle). Also, serious thanks to member JJ for the sagely advice, quick 
> shipping, & friendliness. 
> [image: IMG_5528.jpg]
> [image: IMG_5527.jpg]
>
> Also built up my old Trek 510 with some things I had laying around & some 
> parts I was missing from the Soma sale. I did a homemade paint job on it 
> and used an old Captain Picard keychain for the headbadge. Had the 
> cantilever bosses and a few other things added to it a while ago. 650x42s 
> in there now but it could probably clear a 48. 
> [image: IMG_5529.jpg]
> [image: IMG_5530.jpg]
> [image: IMG_5531.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 54.5 Homer: 700c or 650b?

[DavidP]

Robert - the geometry comparison highlights the point I was going to make 
that given your PBH, the 650b will likely have better standover clearance 
if you want to run tires at the larger end of the Homer's range.

My rough stuff road bike has disc brakes so could take either 650b or 700c 
wheels. Since I was wanting to run wider tires I went with 650x48 to get 
the extra 16mm standover in a frame size that is near the cusp of what I 
can clear.

That comparison shows a much larger difference in standover, as well as 
other differences that make it look to me like the 650b will be a better 
fit for your proportions.

-Dave

On Tuesday, April 23, 2024 at 10:36:56 AM UTC-4 Robert Calton wrote:

> Thanks Bill! That's helpful. The colors are the same on both offerings and 
> the 650B's build is essentially what I would do to the 700c (with the help 
> of my lovely LBS, of course). I'm not really too concerned with resale 
> value, but rather the general riding experience. I suppose I could simply 
> research the litany of 650b vs 700c threads out there to learn more about 
> this. The geometry between the two are slightly different, however. 
>
> The BikeInsights chart attached below shows the 700c to be quite a bit 
> taller than the 650b, which I wonder if that translates into overall 
> comfort with regards to standover and handling.  
> On Tuesday, April 23, 2024 at 10:22:15 AM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> If it were me the decision is close enough that I'd probably leave it to 
>> the surrounding details of each transaction.  I'm a particularly snobby and 
>> self-absorbed curator of "builds" so that would be a huge vote in favor of 
>> the 700 because it's a frame, unless the curator of the 650b build did a 
>> lot of the things I would have done.  The effective "labor cost" of doing a 
>> build is essentially zero for me.  Is one a shop and the other a person? 
>>  That would have some weight for me.  If the shop was one that I could 
>> frequent, putting money in the register of a shop reaps benefits down the 
>> road.  If the person was one that I had particular respect for, that could 
>> tilt me a different way.  
>>
>> Then there's color!  
>>
>> but...if we took it to a purely hypothetical situation, and asserted they 
>> were both frames, both in identical condition, at the same price, and from 
>> the same seller, so the real and only difference was 650B vs 700, then I'd 
>> probably lean 700 because the 700 wheel on the 54.5 is "the latest", and 
>> probably has a tiny bit better future proof resale value.  If that wasn't 
>> the case and it really was completely wheel size then I'd personally 
>> probably lean 650B for a Hilsen, but it would be like a vote of 52 to 48, 
>> and my leaning may change on another day.
>>
>> Both are great bikes.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, April 22, 2024 at 7:20:48 PM UTC-7 Robert Calton wrote:
>>
>>> It's looking like I'll have the opportunity to purchase either bicycle 
>>> within the next week or so, a 54.5 Homer in 700c or 650b. I'm 5'11" with a 
>>> 83.8PBH, so spot on for both of those sizes. 
>>>
>>> I'm curious what the wisdom of the community is in regards to making 
>>> this decision, which should I consider more strongly? The price difference 
>>> is negligible. They both have similar components on it (the 650 is a 
>>> complete bike, the 700c I'd have to build up from a frameset and the cost 
>>> is about equal for both). 
>>>
>>> I mainly ride pavement and rail trails with the occasional wooded paths. 
>>>
>>> Thoughts? :) 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Evening Spring Ride on the Clem

[DavidP]

"Palm sized" is how I'd describe the Carson MiniScout 7x18 I take along on 
trail rides and other rides when I don't expect to be using them much or 
are too rough to bring more expensive binoculars. Tiny, expendable, very 
small eye relief, but surprisingly decent handling for the size. 

A 6x18 monocular is smaller but the bins give a better view.

-Dave

On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 6:35:55 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Yes; please keep them coming.
>
> Aside, to all: suggestions for a usable but inexpensive, small, and easily 
> stowable binocular or monocular for very casual sightings while riding 
> around? For some reason I lost or tossed a nice palm-size binocular and I'd 
> like to replace with with something that easily fits into a rear jersey 
> pocket.
>
>
> Patrick "I see a Clem in my future, but only after fettling the new M 1:1 
> knobby wheelset and the beater Libertas build" Moore
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 18, 2024 at 8:42 AM DavidP  wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Chris - very much enjoyed your ride report and always great to 
>> see photos! 
>>
>> I also like to bring binos on bike rides, and find a stem bag is a great 
>> way to have them easily accessible (requires folding/pocket bins - I use a 
>> pair of Bushnell Legend 10x25 for this).
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 1:51:56 AM UTC-4 Chris Halasz wrote:
>>
>>> I took advantage of the intermission in rains here on California’s 
>>> Central Coast for a short and easy trail ride this evening. 
>>>
>>>
>>> I'd started running again and enjoying something like a 10k loop along 
>>> this trail for the past year, and recently wondered why I never bother to 
>>> take a bike here: it's a quicker way to grab the binos and do some 
>>> occasional birding. A Clem seemed like a good candidate for stepping off in 
>>> sketchy sections, and for portaging with its low top tube. 
>>>
>>>
>>> This was its first ride into the trees!  
>>>
>>>
>>> The trees seemed to be enjoying the frogs making happy noise in the 
>>> creek, the air was cool, not much breeze, and the (new to me) Clem cruised 
>>> nicely over the winter’s leaves, the drying trails, and lots of exposed 
>>> rock from a generously wet winter. Shall I ride the bike when I go hear 
>>> Suzanne Simard speak in a couple weeks?
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1128.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1132.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: IMG_1137.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>> Hope you enjoy the photos as much as I enjoyed the (short) ride, 
>>>
>>>
>>> Chris 
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Belated Ride Report: Redlands Strada Rossa

[DavidP]

Great report, Corwin - and nice to see your new custom back on the dirt. 
Sounds like you stretched yourself quite a bit on this one and made it 
through - congrats!

-Dave

On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 1:28:42 AM UTC-4 ttoshi wrote:

> Wow, adventurous ride! Nice job finishing it.
> You’ve motivated me to think about a mixed terrain ride later this year.
>
> Thanks for sharing,
> Toshi
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 10:09 PM Corwin Zechar  wrote:
>
>> Sorry. I took more photos, but seem to have previously filled the disk on 
>> my camera with unrelated pics.
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Chainstay Ding Peer Review Request

[DavidP]

Chris, thanks for posting the update including photos of the final build. 
That's great looking Clem and nice touch up work! I love to hear stories of 
bikes being built around a single part, this may be the first I've heard of 
a bike being built around a set of tires!

Re: comparisons to the Platypus, the longer WB on the Clem may have 
something do to with it, though your tire selections definitely will make a 
difference. My Platy is built similarly to your Clem (50mm GravelKing SKs 
and 65cm Tosco bars).

Patrick, the Clem can do tires up to 2.6 or ~2.25 fendered. The Platypus 
can do ~2.1-2.2"; mine's running VO 63mm fenders over those 2" GravelKings.

-Dave

On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 12:53:49 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks for the clarifications and precisions. I'm more auditory than 
> visual so I do appreciate the apercus of someone who is visual about the 
> Clem's appearance. Also, can the Clem take wider tires than the Platypus? 
> At any rate, if I ever get a Clem, it will be for dawdling about on 
> pavement and on sandy roads and trails so I'd need a minimum width of 48.
>
> Please do post more offroad photos of the Clem.
>
> On Wed, Apr 17, 2024 at 11:32 PM Chris Halasz  wrote:
>
>> Patrick 
>>
>>
>> I almost, and probably should have, refrained from comparing the Clem 
>> with the Platypus. 
>>
>>
>> I built the 60cm Platypus with 42mm Graveling SS tires and Crust Juan 
>> Martin bars, front rack, often with a beloved little dog in the front 
>> basket rack. The Clem is a 64cm with Tosco bars, 48mm Oracle Ridge tires, 
>> and no racks. Surely all of that is part of the change. 
>>
>>
>> It feels a little more sure - to me - with the type of riding I’m doing 
>> now: a little less road, a few more rocky trails (images to follow in 
>> another thread). 
>>
>>
>> I’m highly visual, and while I couldn’t argue that the Platypus is the 
>> more objectively beautifully built frame, there’s something downright 
>> compelling to me about the largest Clem and the way the top and down tubes 
>> diverge at the steerer tube, and the way my somewhat dyslexic brain works, 
>> that translate to *me* finding myself more at home on this build; it feels 
>> a bit more like an extension of me, or maybe I just feel more sure with the 
>> Clem in the type of riding I’m doing now. I’ve grown more accustomed to 
>> riding upright, and maybe that extra inch or so of chainstay suits the 
>> riding I’m doing now.  
>>
>>
>> - Chris
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sizing question for "in between" PBH measurement

[DavidP]

Oooh, a new Sam - exciting!

1) Send Riv an email and get their recommendation, they're great with this 
stuff.

2) I'm a similar height but have an 87cm PBH. With your torso length I'm 
guessing you'll want more reach, the concern is the standover on the 54cm 
Sam if you max out the tires. Either way you'll probably want a long stem 
on that Albatross. My 58cm top tube Albatross bike has a 120mm stem. The 
drop tube bikes (Susie, Platypus, Clem) are great for getting a longer fit 
without worrying about standover; I'm on a 60cm Platypus and the reach is 
luxurious.

-Dave

On Thursday, April 18, 2024 at 10:43:16 AM UTC-4 Robert Calton wrote:

> Haven't had luck pinning down a used bike this last week, so I'm thinking 
> I might try and buy a new Sam in May/June with the refresh and I don't know 
> if the 51 or 54 frame size is the right choice. Compared to my current 
> bike, a 55cm Salsa Vaya's standover of 77.6cm and top tube of 55cm...
>
> 51 Sam standover: 78.6 (+1cm from Vaya)
> 51 Sam top tube: 56.5 (+1.5cm from Vaya) 
>
> 54 Sam standover: 82.0 (+4.4cm from Vaya) 
> 54 Sam top tube:  58 (+3cm from Vaya) 
>
> An 83.8 PBH was the highest measurement out of the 10 or so times I 
> measured. Most of the time it was 81.2 - 82.5 range. I'm 5'11 with a 30" 
> inseam. Riv says a 51 Sam is 79-83 and a 54 is 83-86. 
>
> I would like to run Albatross bars and be comfy about it. 
>
> Which frame size should I choose? 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Thumb Shifter Advice

[DavidP]

Usually when reversing shifters for inside mounting the left is kept as the 
front shifter and the right as the rear. When you reverse index shifters in 
this way you are forced to swap the front/rear shifting so that the left 
shifts the rear. It's not wrong, just unconventional.

-Dave
On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 1:59:20 PM UTC-4 tal...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks for the backup on my love of clicks. :) 
>
> I've got my Microshift 2x9 set up inside and indexed without cable routing 
> issues. Yes, they're reversed, but that takes about 30 seconds to get used 
> to. Is cable routing an issue with other options?
>
>  [image: PXL_20230930_181944351.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 11:41:50 AM UTC-6 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
> wrote:
>
>> Because of the cable routing, inside mounted thumbshifters must be 
>> friction because they need to be reversed, left/right. That said, clicks 
>> are pretty great, you should run the expensive Shimano/Paul stuff, or the 
>> less expensive Microshift thumbies. And that said, of my three bikes, two 
>> are friction and also pretty great, but no inside thumbies for want of the 
>> indexing option should my friction fail (just kidding, about the last 
>> failing bit, not that other stuff).
>> -Kai
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 11:50:21 AM UTC-4 tal...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> I'll be building up one of the new Susies (in green) soon and I'm *debating 
>>> my thumb-shifter options*. Do you have some advice?
>>>
>>> I'll be setting up
>>>
>>>- 9-speed Shimano RD (RD-M952)
>>>- Triple Shimano FD (FD-M953) on a Silver Wide-low double
>>>- Inside-mount thumb shifters on Sim Works (Nitto) Ramble bars
>>>- Preferably, indexed shifting for the rear
>>>
>>> I know of
>>>
>>>- *Microshift*. I've got a lot of miles on their 11-speed thumb 
>>>shifter on my commuter and I get ghost shifts no matter how much I tweak 
>>>it. I have a lot fewer miles on their 2/3x9 pair on my 90s mountain bike 
>>>and they haven't given me trouble. 
>>>- *Paul Thumbie + Shimano SL-BS77*. Tempting, but expensive. Do you 
>>>have experience with this setup? Can you compare it with Microshift?
>>>- *Silver2*. Pretty, but not indexed and I'm a scared wimp. Can you 
>>>convince me friction shifting is the way to go?
>>>- *Are there other options* (including used or NOS) I should 
>>>consider?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance, 
>>> Aaron
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Gravel Tires for Cheviot

[DavidP]

I have the LBB 700x38s on a Sam-ish bike and they do just fine for mixed / 
gravel use. They are heavy, but can be run at low pressure for a dampened 
ride. They are true to size and bigger than the undersized 700x38 
GravelKing slicks I have on another bike. 

My Platypus has 700x50 GravelKing SKs (true to size) and they do well on 
pavement and have surprisng grip on dirt.

Panaracer is dropping the 700x43 size across the GravelKing line and going 
to 700x45, but you can still find 700x43 SKs for the time being.

Another option to consider is American Classic 700x45s - there is a range 
of tread styles so you could get a smoother rear and a knobbier front.

-Dave

On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 12:56:50 PM UTC-4 Hoch in ut wrote:

> Maybe I’ll be alone in this, but… Just ride it! For the type of riding on 
> a Chev, microknobs/file tread doesn’t help much. If you run bigger 
> knobbies, it may actually be dangerous with the tire clearance maxed out. 
> Any stone picked up by the tread could jam against the fork or chain/seat 
> stays. Plus, they’ll fling more rocks and chip paint (or teeth, as I found 
> out once!). 
> I’d just lower the pressure a bit and see how it goes. 
>
> On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 9:57:42 AM UTC-6 R. Scott Lake wrote:
>
>> Wanting to change the shoes on my Cheviot and use as a gravel bike on 
>> flat trails in Lowcountry of SC.
>> Currently have 38 Schwable LBB.
>> I think the Cheviot can handle 45's (without fenders).
>> Any suggestions? 
>> Panracers, Rene Herse?
>> Other?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction 9 V 10 speed

[DavidP]

My road bike is friction 2x10 with Riv Silver 2s on barend pods, Campy 
Veloce FD, Sugino 48/34 crank, Ultegra 11-30 cassette, and Ultegra 10 speed 
chain. Wonderful shifting. After initial setup I had some occasional 
slipping on the right shifter, requiring some snugging of the D-ring bolt 
by hand, but it's been holding fine for a while now.

I have other friction shifted bikes ranging from 7 speeds to 9 speeds in 
back and while they all work well shifting is easier on the bikes with more 
cogs.

-Dave

On Monday, April 15, 2024 at 9:27:21 PM UTC-4 ber...@bernardduhon.com wrote:

> I have been friction  shifting my 10 speed campy set up. 11-26 X 44-28 
> Crank is Sugino. 
> Was not happy with performance , ghosts shifts up when spinning & down 
> when stomping the pedals.  
> Switched up to a 34-11 Shimano
> Nothing else changed 
> Seems to be working really well. 
>  
> Previous threads and literature suggests that the closer the cogs in 10 & 
> 11 speeds makes for better friction shifting.
>  
> What has been your experience?  
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: NBD Leo Roadini

[DavidP]

Congrats on the new bike, Scott! Looks like a great build and a wonderful 
riding location!

-Dave

On Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 10:20:31 AM UTC-4 R. Scott Lake wrote:

> [image: IMG_6743.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Soliciting opinions: help me pick the right Rivendell

[DavidP]

"My ideal bike would be something that could ride 15-20 miles to the trail 
and then 10-15 more on the trail. And also manage chipotle, beer, and post 
office runs."

That's about 60/40 pavement/trail, add in the errands and other stuff and 
it's more like 70/30.

What tire size is ideal for the trails you are riding? What tire size is 
the minimum to enjoy them? I'd probably try to aim for something in the 
lower half of that range given the pavement/trail mix and desire for the 
bike to feel sporty.

If the tire size is less than 2" then that opens up the Sam (48s w/o 
fenders). If you'd rather have something in the 2" - 2.25" range that's 
Appaloosa, Atlantis, Platypus territory. Larger than that Clem or Susie.

-Dave

On Saturday, April 6, 2024 at 5:50:01 AM UTC-4 Ed Carolipio wrote:

> Sounds like you want the OG - the Atlantis. Here's Ron talking about his 
> third Atlantis, which is also the bike he bent the Albatross for to create 
> the Ortho bar:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_0qSPMps48
>
> The Sam is also a good alternative: shorter chainstays and a slightly 
> lighter frame. I don't own one but people report it is a bit nimbler on the 
> trails than the longer chainstay models.
>
> I'd exclude the Clem, the Susie/Gus, the Appaloosa, and the Platypus since 
> IMO they won't work as well with bendy bars with their longish 
> front-centers. I'd exclude the AHH, the Roadini, and the Roadeo since all 
> take caliper brakes which limits the tire widths for off road or unpaved 
> riding.
>
> Good luck and hope you find a bike (Riv or otherwise) that helps you with 
> your bike journey.
>
> --Ed C.
> Redondo Beach, CA
>
>
> On Friday, April 5, 2024 at 5:43:49 PM UTC-7 Bud Suttree wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>>
>> Been enjoying these forums for a while now, with my first post I’d like 
>> to lean on the immense collective wisdom here and get some help with 
>> picking out the right Rivendell model. I’ve done quite a lot of personal 
>> research and spoken to Riv at least once but would like to open things up 
>> to the group for general discussion. 
>>
>>
>> Short sketch of my problem: I love bicycles, but haven’t enjoyed riding 
>> them in a long time. I have quite a few, and they all are unpleasant to 
>> ride for one reason or another. My priorities are, in descending order: 
>> comfort, performance (perceived), utility, price/aesthetics (tie), 
>> performance (actual), and at the end would be the ability to do any 
>> outer-boundary/end-of-spectrum type activity, riding across the country or 
>> racing crits, etc. My ideal bike would be something that could ride 15-20 
>> miles to the trail and then 10-15 more on the trail. And also manage 
>> chipotle, beer, and post office runs. 
>>
>>
>> Every time I browse the Riv offerings I become convinced I need a 
>> different model. I’m thinking maybe the Atlantis would suit me, but I don’t 
>> necessarily love the double top tube, and I’d probably be between the 57 
>> and 59. The Appaloosa seems pretty similar, but I’m not crazy about either 
>> of the current colors. Can’t say I can tell the difference between that one 
>> and the Sam, but I like the Sam aesthetic better. I’m also tempted by the 
>> gold Susie/Wolbis, but since I’ll be riding mostly around town, worry that 
>> it might not feel as agile as the bikes I’m use to riding do.
>>
>>
>> That’s the short version — would welcome any takes or opinions. 
>>
>>
>> Longer story:
>>
>>
>> Like the rest of you, I love bicycles. A substantial amount of my 
>> attention is given to them, day after day, in one way or another. 
>> Unfortunately, lately this has not translated into actually riding them 
>> very often. It’s a paradoxical state, induced by having too many (project) 
>> bikes, none of which I can tolerate to ride for more than half an hour. 
>> It’s mostly a comfort issue. FWIW, I am a not unhealthy late 20something 
>> male with probably poorish posture from desk-jockeying. I rode an aluminum 
>> Cannondale road bike daily for five years, crashed, broke some bones and 
>> swore it off for two, then entered this present cycle. 
>>
>>
>> Economic realities necessitate the need to flip bikes and parts to fund 
>> the passion. Maybe you think that’s a dirty trade; most are. I’ve had the 
>> good fortune to pick up an outrageously rare old school BMX bike for 
>> essentially nothing that should cover a very nice Rivendell build, and 
>> hopefully obviate the need to engage in as much cycling commerce. 
>>
>>
>> Along the way, I’ve acquired an interesting stable:
>>
>>- 93 Bridgestone RB-1 and MB-2 
>>- Custom 90s Ciocc w/ Columbus EL and Chorus 
>>- 93ish lugged Trek 990 
>>- 1985 Trek 620 
>>
>> and a cache of interesting parts, so it’s not been for nothing, but I 
>> don’t like riding any of those bikes. Had (still have?) big dreams for the 
>> RB-1, but cannot tolerate the reach. Have tried a bunch of stem/saddle 
>> options, no luck. Currently building it up w/ a Soma Highway 

Re: [RBW] It's New Bike What?

[DavidP]

Corbin, the nice about New Bike What? (as opposed to NBD) is that the bike 
has some dirt on it!

-Dave



On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 3:50:13 PM UTC-4 cz...@sonic.net wrote:

> Hi Rich -
>
> I can't take credit for the build. Mark Abele at Rivendell did it all. 
> Including getting the frame built by Mark Nobilette and painted by Joe Bell.
>
> Regards,
>
> CZ
>
> On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 12:36:55 PM UTC-7 RichS wrote:
>
>> Corwin, an adventurous build for an adventure bike. You must have had a 
>> good time putting that one together. Love the result:-)))
>> Thanks for showing it off.
>>
>> Best,
>> Rich in ATL
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 2:53:45 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, Corwin. I'm a pedal snob and love lightweight SPD-type pedals, 
>>> and there's a (earlier version?) pair of Micros on eBay for $25, but I just 
>>> read reviews of the Micros and apparently their cleats and SPD cleats 
>>> aren't compatible; too bad, since I have SPDs on all my bikes now. 
>>>
>>> Bike Radar weighed the Micro version they reviewed at 208 grams, lighter 
>>> even than the old Xpedo titanium spindle pedals with 180 lb weight limit in 
>>> my pedal stash, and a good 5 oz lighter than my go-to Dura Ace spds.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 12:30 PM Corwin Zechar  wrote:
>>>
 Hi Patrick -

 Love the Richey Micros. They are one-sided and weighted to be in the 
 optimal position when you want to clip in.

 I've had lots of Schwalbe tires. I get flats on almost every ride with 
 G-Ones. But the Hurricanes have never flatted. I have them on three bikes 
 now: Hubbuhubbuh, Custom and Quickbeam. I really like the cushy ride of 
 supple tires. But a tire that flats nearly every time I ride is of no use 
 to me. Reliability is very important to me.

 Regards,

 CZ

 On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 11:03:40 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Lovely and intriguing! Certainly an eclectic build -- that's a 
> positive. How do you like the Hurricanes and the Ritchey Micros?
>
> On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 10:42 AM John Bokman  
> wrote:
>
>> That ride looks like so much fun! Love the color pop of the Red 
>> brakes on Purple frameset. Reminds me of days on my 1994 Maroon 
>> mustached 
>> XO-3. Also my 1990 MB2 (because it was also purple). Thanks for posting 
>> Corwin.
>>
>> John
>>
>> On Saturday, March 23, 2024 at 3:30:25 AM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>>
>>> Looks great, and I love the color, and the fat tires with 
>>> the Albastache combo.
>>>
>>> I think you win the Riv with the lowest bars award!
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> On Sat, Mar 23, 2024 at 2:03 AM Corwin Zechar  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 It's definitely not new bike day. That was back in the first week 
 of February. Not even New Bike Month. So it's New Bike Quarter?

 Anyway, I picked up my much anticipated and long-awaited custom 
 Rivendell last month. Some interesting aspects include:

 1) SRAM drop bar levers mounted on opposite sides (with respect to 
 normal drop bar mounting) on Nitto Albastache bars - as suggested by 
 Bill 
 Lindsay.

 2) A Fizik Aliante Gamma saddle recovered by Mick Peel in Australia 
 and sporting the Rivendell logo.

 3) A Rich Lesnik built wheelset with Onyx hubs and Velocity Quill 
 rims.

 4) SRAM rear derailer and SRAM bar-end shifters.

 5) Shimano Ultegra 6650 compact double crankset with TA 
 Specialities chainrings

 6) Chris King bottom bracket with outboard bearings.

 7) DT Swiss skewers.

 8) Custom lug carving by Mark Nobilette.

 9) Ritchey Micro Road pedals.

 10) Tektro CX 8.4 short-pull V-brakes.

 The main difference between my new custom and the old custom are 
 the cantilever posts and lug carving.

 I can report that my new custom feels just like my old custom - 
 wherever it is. I rode the bike in the Redlands Strada Rossa last 
 Saturday 
 and it performed flawlessly - despite my lack of experience on dirt 
 roads 
 and singletrack.

 A few photos illustrating the most salient aspects follow...

 Regards,


 Corwin

 [image: drivetrain.jpg][image: carvedLugs.jpg]

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Re: [RBW] I have questions

[DavidP]

Jumping on the "48s are fine" bandwagon: I have a roadish "gravel" bike 
with 650x48s (22mm inner width rims, Panaracer Pari-Moto rear, RH Juniper 
Ridge front) - it's plenty quick on pavement despite not being a dedicated 
paved road bike. At ~160lbs, I run 30psi.

The 650b wheels on the 50cm Platypus will reduce the gyroscopic effect when 
compared with a 700x48 tire, and you get you back some of the "nimbleness" 
Patrick mentioned that can be lost with wider tires. You may notice the 
650x48 handles more nimbly than your 700x42 Platypus (the reduced wheelbase 
will have an effect as well).

-Dave
On Wednesday, March 20, 2024 at 7:05:37 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> To take into account George's experience: I do use widish rims for the 
> 48s/50s: 27 mm IW Velocity Blunt SS's. But at 20 the Soma SV SLs handle 
> wonderfully on pavement. I agree that as the tires get fatter and the 
> pressures lower, small pressure differences make a big difference in 
> handling. 
>
> On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 5:03 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Agree, tho' IME a 48 mm tire will require considerably less pressure than 
>> a 42. I'm 170-175 and put ~35 psi in 42s but only 20 in 48s (that measure 
>> 50 on my rims); this for pavement riding, very supple tires. A lighter 
>> rider can use less.
>>
>> Jan has shown (and my Big Ones also show) that width does not necessarily 
>> affect rolling resistance. What width does do, IME, is reduce the 
>> "nimbleness" of handling.
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 20, 2024 at 1:15 PM Jason Fuller  wrote:
>>
>>> The actual speed difference between a similar quality 48mm and a 42mm 
>>> will be extremely small - I wouldn't sweat it at all! Probably like 0.1 mph 
>>> difference. Most of the perceived difference is all in our heads, based on 
>>> the squish-factor and the buzz they make on pavement, neither of which 
>>> necessarily relate to speed. I would simply air them up to the same 
>>> pressure you run on your 42mm tires for the speedy rides. The Gravel King 
>>> is a reasonably quick tire, no concerns there to me. 
>>>
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> ---
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services
>
>
> ---
>
> *When thou didst not, savage, k**now thine own meaning,*
>
> *But wouldst gabble like a** thing most brutish,*
>
> *I endowed thy purposes w**ith words that made them known.*
>

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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifting Issues with my Old Clem

[DavidP]

I'm using that $13 derailleur on a couple of bikes that see regular 
off-road use (including my Platypus) and it just works. I have some bikes 
with fancier RDs but will continue to use it on future builds where it fits.

The symptom of working fine in all but a couple of cogs always makes me 
think about the hanger alignment (as mentioned by Bill), but it's possible 
the the derailleur may have been damaged too.

Starting with the shifters isn't a bad idea as they will be a notable 
upgrade from the current shifters even if they aren't the cause of your 
problem.

-Dave


On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:50:02 PM UTC-4 Vincent Tamer wrote:

> Yes it is a 9. I've wanted to switch to Silver Thumbies so that might just 
> be the next upgrade. Good point about the derailleur too, that's something 
> to consider.
>
> On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 6:11:32 PM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> Hi Vincent,
>>
>> That Clem is beautiful, but your shifting issue sounds frustrating. Are 
>> you running a 9-speed cassette in the back? I had the indexing Sunrace 
>> thumbie on my Rivendell and performance felt just ok. My vintage Suntour 
>> thumb shifters from 1983 were better, and now I have a Riv silver thumbie 
>> on and it's also better. I suggest you buy one Riv silver thumbie and try 
>> that out. I clearly remember the PDF saying the stock shifters clicked but 
>> did not index. 
>>
>> Also, consider that the Altus rear derailleur is a $13 part. Maybe it's 
>> just not up for your rough rides on the train tracks? I have a silver 
>> thumbie with the SRAM GX 10 speed rear derailleur shifting a 9-speed 
>> cassette, and it works perfectly. I highly recommend it. It has a clutch on 
>> it so you can forget about chain slap and dropped chains. It's available 
>> for nice prices because the trend in mountain bikes is now 12 speeds. (A 
>> matching 10 speed click shifter is also available for cheap, but I haven't 
>> tried it.)
>>
>> I also have a narrow-wide chainring on the front. Perhaps you should 
>> consider one. How often are you using the biggest chainring? For me it's 
>> never (I took it off) because live in a city and commute so I rarely get up 
>> to speed for longer than 4 minutes. Are you regularly cruising above 15 
>> MPH? If not, go lower with your gearing. Wolf-Tooth and Stridsland both 
>> have excellent narrow-wide chainrings that will fit your cranks. Fewer 
>> moving parts is a nice thing for your bike. 
>>
>> I hope this helps. Happy riding. 
>>
>> Michael 
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 13, 2024 at 11:40:52 PM UTC-4 Vincent Tamer wrote:
>>
>>> I have an on going issue with my friction shifting setup on my 2016 
>>> complete Clem.
>>>
>>> I believe this will be my third cassette replacement now. Each time the 
>>> two smallest cogs are damaged/stripped for some reason, so that when I 
>>> pedal there is some crunching & ghost shifting. I cannot pedal with full 
>>> force on the first two gears.
>>>
>>> I’ve had issues with this since day one and I have a feeling it is due 
>>> to the 2016 complete clem’s shifting setup even though I’ve had it adjusted 
>>> and have explained to two different bike technicians.
>>>
>>> The shifter setup is odd, Riv even commented on how it was a little 
>>> strange in the Clem intro Pdf that was floating around for the longest time 
>>> (cannot find it now). I'm hoping someone knows what I'm talking about!
>>>
>>> These suntour shifters are set up in a reverse position and that they 
>>> have some kind of ratcheting mech in them. The clicks don’t always coincide 
>>> with a shift and maybe that has created some bad friction shifting form on 
>>> my part. Outside of that I’m at a loss for why I am having issues with 
>>> stripped cogs. 
>>>
>>> I’m considering switching to an indexed set up even though I don’t want 
>>> to but before I do, does any one have any wisdom they can shed on this 
>>> situation? Thank you!
>>>
>>> Pics are attached, of the whole bike (for fun) and of the shifter. I'll 
>>> grab some shots of the gears as well when I can.[image: 
>>> DSCF7718_sml.jpg][image: shifter.jpg]
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] New bike decision (help!)

[DavidP]

As Jim suggests, the Platypus isn't just a pavement bike (it'll actually 
fit 2.2s; mine has 50s and fenders) but, as Richard says, it's also not a 
trail bike. It's a good all-rounder and great on mixed surface, gravel-ish 
rides (and sure, some light singletrack is fair game). But if, as you say, 
you are looking for a bike specifically for "everything from dirt paths to 
midwestern single track" you'd be better suited by the Clem or Susie (and 
personally, I'd go for the Susie) even if you only put slightly bigger 
tires on it.

-Dave

On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 4:15:27 PM UTC-5 bei...@gmail.com wrote:

> Welcome, Gregger!
>
> I have a Platy as my only riv, which I bought as a third option late 
> because I missed the Gus boat in Dec 2021 and the Atlantis boat in April 
> 2022. I mostly use the Platy for groceries, baby hauling and mixed gravel 
> but occasionally ride it on more Rocky Mountain bike trails here in 
> Boulder, CO. I KNOW I should be more careful and I USUALLY don’t have a 
> problem, but I do almost always accidentally pedal strike on the Platy. 
> Neither my Kona Rove nor my Karate Monkey have such a low bottom bracket, 
> and my experience generally has been that it’s safer to use the right tool 
> for the job. 
>
> What I’m saying is, ride the Krampus rigid (and maybe single speed) if you 
> want to slow down a bit, and ALSO get  the new Susie or the purple Platy 
> you’re fond of. They won’t go unridden!
>
> Happy pondering, 
>
> Christian
>
> On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 1:57:27 PM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I’ve not ridden a Platypus but I’ve yet to hear it described as a trail 
>> bike. Love, love, love my Clem on & off road but if things get dicey it’s a 
>> bit overwhelmed with the lower bottom bracket - compared to my Gus. The Gus 
>> or the new Susie (get one! Run do not walk!) are singletrack machines. Yes 
>> they are good for other duties as well but are conceived & built to be 
>> mountain bikes. I am blown away by it on rough, rooty & slightly rocky 
>> singletrack. It is every bit the mountain bike that a Jones is (I had one) 
>> which is of course highly regarded in that category. I’ve yet to experience 
>> a pedal strike on the Gus. I’ve had quite a few on the Clem. And I am 
>> pretty decent at avoiding them if I do say so. So, IMHO if what you are 
>> looking for is a singletrack bike get the new Susie or try to find a 
>> leftover one/Gus.
>> FWIW, I am closing on 69 years old & have ditched my full suspension bike 
>> in favor of the Gus. As you allude to, I am a bit less aggressive on the 
>> Gus vs. the Ibis. I think that’s is smarter at my age. No less fun though.:)
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Feb 24, 2024, at 11:51 AM, Gregger  wrote:
>>
>> Long time listener, first time caller.  
>>
>>
>> It's a bit hard to tell if you lovely folks on this forum enjoy or loathe 
>> these "help me pick a bike" posts - there are a lot of them - but I really 
>> would greatly appreciate your input on my situation.  I bought a Leo 
>> Roadini a while back (my first Riv) and love it for pavement and gravel 
>> roads.  I now want to look into a trail bike for everything from dirt paths 
>> to midwestern single track (grounded and cautious - I'm 62 years).
>>
>> So, I'm torn between a Platypus (love the aesthetics) and a Clem L (the 
>> ride experience is evidently sublime?). Or should I wait for the new 
>> stouter Susie to arrive (did I mention I weigh 205 lbs?).  I only ride for 
>> exercise a couple of hours a day, so no lugging weight on racks or bags . . 
>> .  would I overwhelm the Platypus frame in the woods?  Would the Clem have 
>> the ground clearance for roots and rocks?  
>>
>> Obviously the Susie would be the safe and conservative choice, but I'm 
>> not a very patient person (this May? Any guarantees?), and I really do love 
>> the purple Platypus available currently.  The Clem L would offer a slightly 
>> larger tire clearance, and the low(ish) bottom bracket height would likely 
>> be sufficient 94.3 % of the time; and tig welds are just fine with me 
>> (sorry for the hurt feelings).
>>
>> Or, a forth option - to be truly difficult, should I keep riding my Surly 
>> Krampus in the woods and continue to risk wiping out and injuring myself - 
>> it just demands to be ridden with abandon, and I scare myself.  That's my 
>> problem I guess, not the bike's.
>>
>> Thank you so much in advance.  I know I've probably left out relevant 
>> information, but I've tried to keep this somewhat short.  Fail.
>>
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>>  
>> 

[RBW] Re: New Platypus

[DavidP]

Great looking Platy, Tim. And I'm not just saying that because mine is 
setup similarly. :)
It does have a lovely ride quality to it - easy going yet zippy; ""cruisy 
zoomy".

-Dave

On Saturday, February 10, 2024 at 4:31:06 PM UTC-5 Tim Bantham wrote:

> Took advantage of the rare warm weather we are having to take my new 
> Platypus out. I purchased this 60cm Sergio's Green as a complete bike. At 
> first I thought I'd ride it complete as it was delivered right out of the 
> box. Although it was fine with the SunRace parts that came with bike I just 
> couldn't live with the aesthetic. I swapped a few parts to make it my own 
> and I now have it built the way I wanted it. 
>
> The Platypus is probably the nicest riding Rivendell I've ever owned. I'm 
> not very good at putting ride quality into words but it just feels sublime. 
> The combination of the laid back geometry and the chubby tires are bike 
> factors. I found that having more of my weight on the front end of the bike 
> by angling the bars down made a big difference. I also changed the stem to 
> a 135mm up from a 110mm. I am really happy with the bike and know that it 
> will serve me well through the years. 
>
> Here is what I swapped out to make it my own. 
>
> Nitto Billie Bars
> Shimano XTR M952 RD
> Shimano Deore DX FD
> Silver Triple Cranks. 44x34x24
> SunTour Power XC Power Ratchets
> Brooks B-17 Special
> Paul Love Levers
> Oury Grips
> Added SimsXNitto Obento Rack
> Wald 137
> 5th Season Squall Sack
>
> [image: 378813CC-FB63-412C-8A4F-CC94A83F5E88_1_105_c.jpeg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Updates/Upgrades

[DavidP]

A new bike or setup is the easy way to re-engage with riding - "I've done 
enough of (x) I want to try (y)  so I need a ." I have built lots of bikes because my tendency is to 
want to start with a new canvas and to not give up what I have. I also 
really enjoy the process of conceptualizing and building up a bike. Since 
there is no perfect bike I try to have a bike for everything I want to do, 
including variations which means I have bikes that end up being pretty 
similar in some respects but the stable on a whole covers a big range of 
riding.

That said I do also switch bikes up in attempt to stem the flow of new 
bikes into the garage while still having a build project. In the best cases 
changing a bike up can make a drastic difference, but usually it is 
improving on a bike I already like very much. 

In terms of rekindling engagement without changing equipment, I find it 
helps to take the focus off the bike and put it onto some experiential goal 
- riding new distances, exploring new routes and places (wandrer.earth is 
great motivation for this), and focusing on bike related activities (S24Os, 
coffee outside, etc.) can all help. To that end maybe Bill's 2024 goal 
thread 
 
would be helpful. 

And going full circle, if you want a new project then these things can help 
direct/justify it.

-Dave 

On Wednesday, February 7, 2024 at 2:04:24 PM UTC-5 drewfi...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hey Owners Bunch Family,
>
> I'm wondering for those of you out there who ride multiple days a week(or 
> more), how often do you tinker with your setup to keep things interesting?
>
> I've recently given my Atlantis a bit of a makeover(rather than sell it as 
> I was feeling inclined to do), in an attempt to fall in love with it again. 
> This included new handlebars, adjusting my chainring sizes, and dropping my 
> rear rack/some extraneous accessories to go with a slightly more naked set 
> up. I've also got some new Soma Cazaderos coming as I've been riding more 
> trails lately. 
>
> What do y'all do to keep your rides feeling fun and engaging? If I'm not 
> in love with the way my Atlantis feels, will I ever be? Looking for some 
> spiritual guidance here, as I know many of you have had various Rivs 
> throughout the years and have all had your reasons for swapping/upgrading 
> setups and frames. 
>
> Thanks in advance for those of you inclined to go down the philosophical 
> rabbit hole with me! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

[DavidP]

A recent Riv newsletter compared the 3x1 to an IGH, saying the 3x1 setup is 
similar but more mechanically transparent.

If you could setup a rear shifted 1x2 or 1x3 with 8-10t jumps between cogs 
that might be an interesting comparison. (The largest jump on a megarange 
freewheel is in this range.)

A question I keep coming back to is whether a 3x1 is more "efficient" than 
a 1x7/8/9 in terms of drivetrain complexity (mechanically and/or mentally).

Still, I like the idea of a front shifted 2x1 or 3x1 setup. If planning on 
such a setup I'd probably just get a Homer vs the Roaduno because I always 
end up wanting fenders on a bike like this and vertical dropouts make 
fenders so much easier. But I do see that the Roaduno with its 120mm rear 
spacing is a "more pure" implementation of the vision.

-Dave

On Monday, February 5, 2024 at 12:55:20 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I've always wondered what advantages a 2X1 has over a 1X2 if you are going 
> to use derailleurs -- the 2X1 requires a FD and something like a RD while 
> the 1X2 requires only the rear one -- but for ss sans derailleur some 
> people say that front shifting is easier than rear shifting. Not for me, 
> though.
>
> Am eagerly awaiting the close ratio Silver Rivendell IGH (with proprietary 
> wingnuts).
>
> On Mon, Feb 5, 2024 at 10:51 AM Mathias Steiner  
> wrote:
>
>> Bill said
>> >> I think the 2x1 or 3x1 concept around the Roaduno is brilliant. 
>>
>> ... A 2x1 would give me all the complexities of a rear derailleur, plus 
>> the poorer shifting of a front system.
>>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Roaduno and the state of single speed bikes

[DavidP]

Hi Edwin, 

A few more I'm aware of:

Crust Florida Man - 130mm spacing, track ends, removable canti-posts, 
27.5x2.4 listed max so 55mm tires with a fender should be fine

Wabi Thunder - 120mm spacing, track ends, 700x44 (conservative?) max

Handsome Devil - 132.5mm spacing, semi-horizonal dropouts, 700x45ish max - 
mine has 38mm Gravel Kings with VO Zeppelin 52mm fenders but the tires 
measure smaller than stated size (~36mm). I'm using the Surly 130mm hub 
Bill mentioned on this bike to get a fixed gear option, but my other single 
speeds use single speed cogs and spacers on cassette hubs.

-Dave
On Friday, February 2, 2024 at 5:16:12 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:

> I like single speed bikes, many like single speed bikes. The simplicity, 
> the possibility of fixed gear, it is the epitome of biking for me, I think.
>
> I like the idea of the roaduno. So far it looks like it will have 700c/622 
> wheel size, long reach side pull brakes. Rear facing drop outs. Those are 
> the main factors to think about, because stem length, handlebar and lever 
> type, fenders or not, dynamo or not, are flexible on most bikes.
>
> What is the competition, and what are they offering?
> Crust Lightning bolt single speed. 650b wheels with anti posts. 
>
> BMC Monstercross. 700c wheels and cantilever posts. But that has 135mm 
> rear spacing, so not exactly built for single speed.
>
> What else is out there that can take a 38mm (or so) tire with a fender?
>
> Edwin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Mainstream press article pushing steel bike?

[DavidP]

I may have had a similar reaction when the article first came up in my feed 
but then I saw the byline.
This is Eben Weiss, BikeSnobNYC. He's a regular contributor to Outside but 
he is in no way a mainstream cyclist (more Riv/Bob-ish) and his articles 
stand out as a bit different to most of what shows up there. 

-Dave

On Monday, January 29, 2024 at 3:13:21 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> https://www.outsideonline.com/culture/opinion/theres-no-good-reason-to-buy-a-carbon-bike/?fbclid=IwAR2uIwBwz29AqiFhiVs5TTjdXw2HDNApUOMVh51foKzayEp1u_vB5UMltqU
>
> Never thought I'd see this.
>

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[RBW] Re: If you plan to get a Roaduno..,

[DavidP]

Keep in mind the Roadunos are 120mm spacing. Any there any 5 or 7-speed 
coaster hubs that narrow?

-Dave

On Tuesday, January 16, 2024 at 3:36:55 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:

> How about a 7-speed coaster brake?  I'm going to want to see the Roaduno, 
> but...
>
> I got this for my wife to use for shopping when we lived in Germany.
> 7-speed grip shift.  Front caliper brake.  The black box on the drive side 
> handles the shifting details.
> I’ve saved it for 20 years in case I want to do a coaster brake build, or 
> even clean this up to ride.
>  1. non-drive showing dropouts   2. drive side with shifting box  3. side 
> view 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Advantages of triple drivetrains (VO post)

[DavidP]

I have a couple of bikes with 46/30 front rings and 11-34 cassettes; I end 
up mainly using them like a double 1x (no, I don't use the 46x11) and for 
these bikes I like it fine.

In line with Bill's point, pairing a smaller front step with a wider range 
cassette (but not too crazy) can work well. I recently ended up with a 2x9, 
42/34 x 11-40t setup on a bike and it's pretty nice for general use. The 
smaller front step allows getting over rolling hills using front shifts 
only, it's got great range (.85:1 - 3.8:1) and still doesn't end up with a 
bunch of simultaneous front/rear shifting. And the 34t small ring lets you 
use a standard 110 double crank.

-Dave
On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 6:13:54 PM UTC-5 J J wrote:

> Steven, thanks for the point about how useful triples are for riding with 
> big loads, whether for touring, day tripping, shopping, whatever. I 
> frequently haul loads up hills on my already-heavy Rivs, so a wide gear 
> range with 24-34-44  or a 26-36-46 triple and a 34- or 36-tooth large rear 
> sprocket works great for me. I'm a tinkerer but I don't mess with my front 
> ders. They're set it and forget it. I also love the way shiny triple cranks 
> look. I've never felt compelled to try a 1x from a functional or aesthetic 
> standpoint. 
>
> I agree with Johnny that much newfangled bike stuff and trends are driven 
> by product differentiation and marketing. Sometimes what was once virtue 
> becomes vice, sometimes what is old becomes new again. 
>
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 4:14:25 PM UTC-5 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
>> One point that I think is being missed, is for loaded touring bikes 
>> triples make more sense. Though I am not camping I still am carrying around 
>> 40 lbs on a 32 lb bike, low gears are especially useful on long and/or 
>> steep hills. When home in central  New Hampshire many of my favorite roads 
>> are diificult if not impossible for me to ride without a 15-18” gear.
>>
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 9, 2024 at 8:43 PM Chris Halasz  wrote:
>>
>>> I'm planning on going from 3x to 1x on my all-around Tosco'd LHT. Maybe 
>>> even do that today, and replace the big ring with the Rivendell chainring 
>>> guard. 
>>>
>>> I haven't used the 48 in a long, long time. As for the 26 inner: there 
>>> was a t-shirt from the 80s from a bike shop in Ketchum that read, "if you 
>>> ain't hikin', you ain't mountain bikin'". If it gets that low, I appreciate 
>>> the change in blood circulation by just walking those few minutes. 
>>>
>>> - Chris
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 12:30:47 PM UTC-8 John Hawrylak, 
>>> Woodstown NJ wrote:
>>>
 Bill L stated:   " If it were me, I'd experiment with a 42-tooth big 
 ring before going to a triple"

 Question to Bill:   Will a 42T large ring result in the FD hitting the 
 chain stay in the inner ring of a triple (say 24T or 26T) ???

 PS  I agree with your comment on the 46-11 being a very high gear.

 John Hawrylak
 Woodstown NJ

 On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 3:21:33 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Ben
>
> You run a 46/30 with an 11-34 11sp cassette.  If it were me, I'd 
> experiment with a 42-tooth big ring before going to a triple.  46x11 is 
> pretty darn high for a commuter/city bike.  Anything higher than a 4:1 in 
> my book is for the sole purpose of pedaling at >>40mph.  That is a real 
> use-case in hilly areas, but not for me, and especially not for a 
> commuter/city bike.  That's just a suggestion.  The jump from 42 to 30 is 
> much less dramatic.  
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 11:25:39 AM UTC-8 bunny...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I've been kind of triple-curious again. I live in a hilly part of 
>> L.A. My commuter/city bike has an 11-34 11s with a 46/30 front. I've 
>> been 
>> finding the 46 to 30 jump to feel pretty large. It feels much more 
>> dramatic 
>> than 50-34. For instance, if I switch big to small in the from, I'll 
>> sift 
>> down at least 3 cogs on the back to totally avoid spinning out 
>> immediately. 
>> I sometimes find myself mildly cross chaining in either direction to 
>> find 
>> the right gear.
>>
>> So I've been thinking of either going 1x, or 3x. My other bike is 1x, 
>> and it's a carbon all-road/gravel thing. I like the setup for rougher 
>> terrain. Also, I just don't like the idea of having duplicate bikes. I 
>> also 
>> romanticize the bike I had about 20 years go, which had an 11-27 9 speed 
>> with 24/36/46. At the time, it felt luxurious, natural, and easy. But I 
>> didn't know then what I know now, and many times when I've set up a 
>> modern 
>> bike like this one from my past, I get quickly disillusioned and undo 
>> that 
>> change.
>>
>> I kinda feel like the headline should be "triples: still fun and 

Re: [RBW] 2.25 Thunder Burt on a Platypus?

[DavidP]

Christian,

Did you damage a rim or are you switching to a dyno hub?

To me there seems to be not much difference between Atlas and Cliffhangers. 
Both are fairly hefty with the Cliffhangers being wider (25mm vs 20mm 
internal). For a Platy, the difference in rim width isn't going to make a 
big impact as all tires that will fit on a Platy will be fine on an Atlas.

My Platy has Cliffhangers and I sometimes think they are a bit overkill for 
the 50mm tires I am using but the ~55g weight difference of the Atlas rims 
isn't worth the switch. If I was using 42mm or smaller tires I'd definitely 
want a narrower rim (Atlas, Quill, Dyad, etc.).

Looking forward to seeing your made over Platypus.

-Dave





On Monday, November 20, 2023 at 2:37:14 PM UTC-5 Justin Kennedy wrote:

> Also, not sure how I missed this, but Roman's 60cm Platypus on the Riv 
> Staff Bikes pages is sporting 2.25 Thunder Burts. Not sure what rims those 
> are mounted to, though, but they might be black Cliffhangers?  
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news/romans-60cm-platypus-86-5cm-pbh
>
> On Monday, November 20, 2023 at 11:25:03 AM UTC-5 Lonnie wrote:
>
>> I love the 2.25 G-ones.  They work well on the neighborhood singletrack, 
>> but don't feel too slow on pavement.  But as I mentioned, they required 
>> swapping out the bottom bracket to keep the chain off the tire (when 
>> mounted on cliffhangers).  Had I known that would be the case, I would have 
>> gone with the 50mm gravel kings.  If I didn't already have cliffhangers, I 
>> might have gone with a slightly narrower rim.[image: Platy~.jpg]
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] It finally happened re: Clem stock tires

[DavidP]

Just echoing Garth's sentiments on some of the hefty Schwalbe tires:

I have the little Big Bens (700x38, true to size on ~18mm inner rims) on a 
single speed bike. Despite the tires weighing over 650g each I enjoy riding 
this bike both on and off pavement.

My townie/errand bike has Big Apple 26x2s (~45mm on ~21mm inner rims, 
690g). They are silent and super smooth, quite enjoyable on a townie.

Super Moto-X 27x.2.4s that weigh about 1000g on a bomber coaster brake 
bike; these are a blast on this bike. Silent and smooth on pavement 
(flywheel description is apt for these) and work well in the dirt. Of 
course I'm not trying to go anywhere fast on this bike.

-Dave
On Friday, November 10, 2023 at 3:03:51 PM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> I can only add that Schwobble's Big Bens are also inherently very flat 
> resistant and quite fun despite their relative heft. I've ridden other 
> Kenda tires and it seems to me that they ride like hell even in lighter 
> weight folding varieties ! 
>  The Big Bens also rolls real easy, like a low resistance flywheel ;) 
> On Thursday, November 9, 2023 at 4:42:44 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Kenda Qwick Bitumen here on my office bike.  They came on an Appaloosa, 
>> and now roll on a fixed gear Crust.  
>>
>> Your bike came with the Kendas, and you love your bike, and they 
>> practically never puncture?  APPROVE
>>
>> I acknowledge there are people who can't imagine riding tires as bad as 
>> the Kenda Quick whatevers.  I also acknowledge that there are people who 
>> would turn down an ice cold Corona on a hot day because they can't imagine 
>> drinking that swill.  I'll take a bike ride on Kenda Quick Bitumen over not 
>> riding, and I'd take a cold Corona over going thirsty.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>> On Wednesday, November 8, 2023 at 2:57:59 PM UTC-8 Jim Bronson wrote:
>>
>>> It is the Kenda QwickNine.  The beauty of these tires is that they don't 
>>> get flats in normal usage.
>>>
>>> I have other bikes that I run ReneHerse tires on.  But for what I use 
>>> Clem for, which is mixed terrain riding and commuting, they're great.  And 
>>> they're very forgiving about air pressure.  They ride fine down to about 
>>> 20psi, but you can inflate them to 50psi, or anything inbetween.  Or even 
>>> more if you like but the ride is more bumpy.
>>>
>>> Other bikes:  fill to whatever pressure causes the most optimal sidewall 
>>> deflection of 15% plus or minus 3 psi depending on usage and the alignment 
>>> of the stars, the planet's gravitational pull and canine flatulence along 
>>> my route of travel.
>>>
>>> Clem:  Tires have air?  Ok, let's ride.
>>>
>>> Jim
>>> ATX
>>>
>>> On Wed, Nov 8, 2023 at 2:21 PM Eric Daume  wrote:
>>>
 I absolutely hated the stock tires on the Clem (Kenda Kwik Nines at the 
 time). Maybe the worst feeling tire I’ve ever experienced. I can’t imagine 
 six years on those things!

 Eric

>>>
 On Wednesday, November 8, 2023, Jim Bronson  wrote:

>>> Well after 6 years of owning my Clem and riding it at least 1x weekly, 
> usually 4-5x weekly, I got a flat.
>
> I was doing my normal 3 mode commute, by car to the train station, by 
> train into town and by bike from the train station to the office.  Well I 
> rode my bike from the car to the train and was goofing off a bit and I 
> thought it was a seamless transition from the grass to the sidewalk in 
> the 
> pre dawn light, well, it was actually a large sharp edge that was about 
> 4-5" higher than the grass.  Thankfully didn't go down, the front wheel 
> rolled over it but I'm guessing I either got a pinch or just exploded the 
> tube internally.
>
> I hung the bike up on the train and got out my laptop and did normal 
> work laptop stuff while riding the 40 minutes down to the office.  Well 
> when I stood up to unrack my Clem the front tire was flat.  Well I've 
> never 
> had a flat on Clem before and although I had a spare tube, I did not have 
> a 
> pump or other method of inflation.  So I hike a bike'd the 2.5 miles to 
> the 
> office.
>
> I was able to buy a Schwalbe tube at the e-Bike store across the 
> street, albeit for a princely $18 for a SV19.  It's been holding air ever 
> since, so hopefully it will be another 6 years before I have another 
> flat.  
>
> Gratuitous bike pic:  Clem on the train on a different day.
>
> Jim
> ATX
>
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>  
> 

[RBW] Re: Platypus for Clem L?

[DavidP]

The Platypus is a shorter bike and will ride a bit zippier due to that. 
Leah comes to mind as one who has compared the ride between her Platypus 
and Clem but others may have shared experience as well.

In terms of weight - the Clem frame may be a bit heavier but I'd guess not 
by much. The builds will make a much more significant difference. Putting a 
lighter wheelset and tires (especially if it is running the stock Kenda 
Kwick7.5/Kwick9s) will make the biggest difference, but things like racks 
can add up too. 

My Platypus is over 30lbs but for my use (out my door, suburban, mixed 
surface riding) I don't mind, and happily choose it over 25lb bikes when it 
suits.

All that said, I'm not sure swapping a Clem for a Platy will gain you much 
in addressing the concerns of weight and maneuverability for a multi-modal 
commute.

-Dave

On Thursday, November 9, 2023 at 11:21:50 AM UTC-5 chungeu...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I bought a complete Clem L for my wife and she enjoyed riding it so far.
> However, she felt that it's a bit too much bike for her since she only 
> rides it on the pavement for the commute. She finds it too heavy when 
> storing it in a rack and bring it on the the commuting train.
> Since she still likes the step-through design, I wonder if swapping it 
> with the complete Platypus would solve her problem. Or, can we solve this 
> with lighter components (probably the wheelset and tires?) and some cockpit 
> setup to make it more zippy?
>
> Best,
> Chung
>

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[RBW] Re: Bedrock Mountain Clogs in Stock!

[DavidP]

Brent, Steve - appreciate the comparisons to Chacos in terms of arch 
support. I've been curious about Bedrocks but unsure about the footbed. As 
someone who manages plantar fasciitis by using SuperFeet insoles in most of 
my shoes, Chacos are comfortable for me to wear all day and I've come to 
really enjoy biking in them with or without socks. The standard soles are 
bit thick and chunky; the Volv soles are noticeably lighter and still work 
for me on the bike with good sized platform pedals.

Thanks,
-Dave
On Wednesday, November 1, 2023 at 1:18:29 PM UTC-4 Jay Lonner wrote:

> I got a pair of the Nubuck in size 13 and they’re a little tight. I can 
> make them work, but would prefer to size up. They are unworn apart from 
> trying them on. Happy to move them along for the retail price of $175, plus 
> shipping.
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 4:52:24 PM UTC-7 in...@brentknepper.com 
> wrote:
>
>> just trying mine on today and I too went up from a usual 10 to a 11. at 
>> first I was worried I there still wasn't enough room with my cute winter 
>> wool socks on, until I realized a separate layer of cardboard forms were 
>> still hiding inside, but all good once I realized my mistake :)
>>
>> I'm a big socks n chacs fan in the shoulder szns, and I will say the 
>> bedrock soles are hella flat in comparison to chacos's arch cradling 
>> technology. anyone else notice a similar arch-love disparity?
>>
>> -brent, with dry toes for once, in snowing-on-hallowe'en-chicago 
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 4:47:51 PM UTC-5 Tim Bantham wrote:
>>
>>> I also sized up and feel happy with that decision. For reference I wear 
>>> a size 11 in the Bedrock Cairn sandal and selected the 12 in the Mountain 
>>> Clog. 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 12:53:58 PM UTC-4 Michael Ullmer wrote:
>>>
 I concur! I got mine over the weekend and went with a size 13, though I 
 usually wear size 11-12 in most shoes. I compared the length with the Size 
 11 Crocs that these are replacing and the size 13 Mountain Clogs were the 
 same length.

 On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 11:22:04 AM UTC-5 Joe A. wrote:

> I received mine and they are great. I can confirm that they run a 
> little smaller than I expected for those that are still considering 
> sizing. 
>
> On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 8:14:32 PM UTC-7 fra...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I was so excited for the restock! I didn’t see the email before I 
>> took my daughter to school. In those 30 or so minutes, my size was sold 
>> out 
>> in the full leather. Hopefully I don’t have to wait another year for a 
>> 30 
>> minute window. 
>>
>> On Saturday, October 28, 2023 at 4:05:09 AM UTC-7 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> I had reached out to supporr, here is what they said:  Most folks 
>>> are wearing the *same size in the Clogs and the Cairns, however I 
>>> would say if you have a more snug fit in your sandals (not much wiggle 
>>> room), you may need to size up in the clogs. Hope this helps!*
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, October 27, 2023 at 9:45:32 PM UTC-4 Teague Scott wrote:
>>>
 Wow these are cool. Thanks for getting them on my radar. Wondering 
 whether sizing runs true to their sandals...

 On Tuesday, October 24, 2023 at 1:29:47 PM UTC-6 Calvin Yolo wrote:

> I had the leather ones and just purchased the green suede as a 
> back up pair. I have a ton of miles walked in my first pair and I'll 
> probably have these in rotation for as long as they make them.
>
> On Tuesday, October 24, 2023 at 9:25:26 AM UTC-7 Joe A. wrote:
>
>> Hey Riv Fam,
>>
>> For any of those curious about these clogs they're finally back 
>> in stock. I snagged a pair of them in Nubuck Leather. Should be 
>> great for 
>> fall riding :)
>>
>> https://bedrocksandals.com/collections/bedrock-mountain-clogs
>>
>> Happy riding!
>>
>> - J
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Considering trading my Ram for a Lightning Bolt

[DavidP]

Max - maybe I'm misunderstanding your intent, but while the Paul site does 
suggest the Racers are designed for direct mounting (the center mount 
adapter plate is optional),  direct mount centerpulls can't be used on 
cantilever brake posts. For one the positioning for centerpull brake pivots 
and cantilever brake posts is different (centerpull pivots are above the 
rim, cantilever / v-brake posts are below the rim). These days there aren't 
too many non-custom frames that have centerpull brake mounts, it's more 
common to use centerpulls with a plate for central mounting like a standard 
road caliper brake.

-Dave

On Wednesday, October 25, 2023 at 9:50:15 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:

> Wow, thank you all for the overwhelming response and for sharing your 
> experience. I love the photos, keep 'em coming!
>
> Matt, thanks for the detail on the Tektros, I ordered a pair but also 
> decided to pull the trigger on Alex' Mafacs (thanks Alex!) to try out the 
> conversion.
>
> Here is what I'll try: 
> 1) New 700C RH tires - Bon Jon Pass in standard casings
> 2) Swap out Paul Racers Medium for MAFAC RAID and install 650b Wheels with 
> Loup Loup Pass tires or with Hetres (650x42) depending on what fits
>
> I'm not sure when, but I will get to it... I have too many half baked 
> projects at the moment, including my half-built Gallop on the stand right 
> now, a brakeless Wilbury that will lose its wheels soon and a MMM bubbe 
> with an Xtracycle that also needs a 650b conversion - I hope I can use the 
> Paul Racers directly on the canti posts, I'm not sure if the plate where 
> the bolt sits is removable.
>
> Thanks again to everyone and I'll report back.
>
> Max
> On Wednesday, October 25, 2023 at 1:33:13 PM UTC-4 ber...@bernardduhon.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Careful with offset brake pad’s 
>> If tires are wide pad my rub on tire
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Get Outlook for iOS 
>> --
>> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  on 
>> behalf of Toshi Takeuchi 
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 25, 2023 12:02:58 PM
>> *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
>> *Subject:* Re: [RBW] Considering trading my Ram for a Lightning Bolt 
>>  
>> I concur with Evan.  I had a 54 cm 650b Ram with 54 mm Hetre/Baby Shoe 
>> Pass tires and SKS fenders.  It was as good as my custom bike, except for 
>> the toe overlap and dynamo wiring. I used thin profile V-brake style pads 
>> to get a little extra reach with the Tektro R559.  That strategy may be 
>> able to be combined with the offset brake-pad holders if needed.
>>
>> Toshi
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 22, 2023 at 9:16 AM Evan E.  wrote:
>>
>> Hi Alex, 
>>
>> Here for your reference is a photo of my Rambouillet with 650b wheels, 
>> Tektro R559 brakes, and Pari-Moto 650b x 42 tires. I used offset brake-pad 
>> holders on the rear caliper to get a tad more reach. If it turns out you 
>> need a bit more reach on your bike, let me know. I still have those offset 
>> brake-pad holders.
>>
>> Evan
>> San Francisco
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f9769df2-3b01-4616-8036-b25209c1009an%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fender Installation and Usage Experiences

[DavidP]

I recently came across this very detailed and helpful guide to installing 
metal fenders. I've installed 3-4 sets before this go but this guide gave 
me the best results yet:
https://somervillebikes.wordpress.com/2020/03/01/how-to-install-metal-fenders-part-i-achieving-a-proper-arc-radius/

-Dave

On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 10:35:11 AM UTC-4 Brian Turner wrote:

> Ted, have you looked at the fenders made by Berthoud? I recently called up 
> Peter White and ordered a set for my new Atlantis project. They're 
> stainless, and smooth, but more affordable than some of the other offerings 
> you mentioned above. The best thing however, I only had to drill one hole 
> to match up to my rear brake bridge mounting point. Everything else was 
> pre-drilled (the stays, the hole near the bottom bracket / chainstay 
> bridge, and the front fender crown). You still have to have some good 
> attention to detail to get good, clean fender lines... but having almost 
> all of your holes pre-drilled certainly takes almost all of the real stress 
> out of the equation.
>

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Re: [RBW] 2.25 Thunder Burt on a Platypus?

[DavidP]

I have a bike with a 29x2.25 Thunder Burt on an i29mm rim, on which the 
casing measures wider than the knobs and is 56mm / 2.2" @ ~20psi. Variances 
in individual tires aside that should be a good max as the Cliffhangers are 
i25mm. I'm pretty sure this would work on my Platypus (60cm) if I didn't 
have fenders installed which limit me to a 50mm tire.

-Dave

On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 5:54:37 PM UTC-4 penne...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Justin,
> FWIW, the April 28 email newsletter featured a 60cm web special platy with 
> 2.3" Teravail Ehlines. Will said: "It clears easily, although I wouldn't go 
> any bigger. I suspect these tires are measured knob to knob, because 
> calipers showed them as closer to 2.1 than 2.3. Still good!"
> Mack 
>
> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 3:29:05 PM UTC-6 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I would say it isn’t likely. I have the Soma Cazadero 700x50mm on my 
>> wife’s 55 with Cliffhanger rims and there is no room to spare. 
>> On Tuesday, October 17, 2023 at 7:10:49 AM UTC-7 ted.l...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> No specific experience mounting that combo but I can tell you that 2.25" 
>>> tires on Cliffhanger rims, for me, measured 60mm. If you've got calipers, 
>>> you could check the spacing between tubes and get an idea from that.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 17, 2023 at 10:04 AM Justin Kennedy  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I know it's beyond the official max tire size but wondering if anyone 
 has experience with big ol' tires on your Platy. Specifically, a 29'er 
 2.25 
 Thunder Burt (mounted on a Cliffhanger) on a 60cm Platypus. Thanks!  

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 .

>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[DavidP]

Yes, chain length remains the same in all cases - I guess what I meant to 
say was 'rear center' (distance between bottom bracket and axle).

It's entirely possible a rear disc might work well enough over that ~3mm 
range. I've never owned a disc braked bike with horizontal dropouts 
allowing the axle to move independent of the caliper so I'm not sure about 
the tolerances in setup.

On Monday, October 16, 2023 at 2:31:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, Dave, good to know about the DOX 2-tooth gap fws.
>
> Back to the question of disc brake and axle movement: the *chain length* will 
> remain the same; the axle will have to move to accommodate different size 
> cogs since I don't want a tensioner.* This of course assumes that one is 
> using horizontal dropouts or track ends; I'd like to stay with that 
> assumption until it is entirely and definitely ruled out.
>
> When moving the chain from a 17 to to a 19 t cog and v/v the axle should 
> have to move only 1/4" or ~6 mm. This movement would be back to front and 
> v/v. 
>
> The rear caliper on the Monocog is  mounted *above* the rotor (actually, 
> it seems to be a wee bit forward of the rotor centerline). Couldn't you 
> mount the caliper at top dead center of the rotor? And if so mounted, the 
> rotor would move only ~3 mm forward or back for a 2-tooth axle shift.
>
> Could the caliper not accommodate a 1/8" or 3 mm movement fore and aft? If 
> I have to specify a particular disc brake, let's just say a cable operated 
> BB7.
>
> I'll think more about the 2 rings/2 cogs arrangement. I could use, say, a 
> 36X17 and 34 X 19 for 65" and 55". And certainly, a vertical dropout would 
> be much easier to use for manual chain shifting than track ends.
>
> Or one could use a kickback hub: 32 X 21 for a 46" gear in direct, 64" in 
> 138% overdrive. 
>
> All in all, I think I prefer the QR and horizontal dropout system, and if 
> disc brakes can't accomodate this then I'll stick to a single speed. [Or, I 
> could go back to a fixed off road bike where I wouldn't need a rear brake; 
> but I rather think I want a freewheel.
>
> *The reason might sound silly but it's a valid one: One reason I took the 
> Monocog in trade was to have a snow bike. We very rarely get enough snow to 
> ride in but we do get a few days per year and I like riding in it. A few 
> years ago I found that wet gummy snow clogged the cassette and rear 
> derailleur of my Matthews and made the chain skip. Thus the thought of 
> getting a snow/sand single speed with 3" tires.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 15, 2023 at 8:51 PM DavidP  wrote:
>
>> Patrick, I hope I am understanding what you are looking for, but the DOS 
>> freewheels are still made in the two tooth differential versions; it's only 
>> the three tooth differential version (16/19) that was discontinued.
>>
>> I'm not sure if you are looking for DOS freewheels in this situation 
>> though as these are thread on and not splined
>> If you are looking at a different wheelset on this hypothetical bike and 
>> a standard single speed threaded hub then the DOS will work:
>> https://www.whiteind.com/product/double-freewheels
>>
>> Regarding disc brakes, to Eric's point I know of no way to have the quick 
>> change of gearing you are looking for with non constant chain length and a 
>> rear disc. Most single speed disc options that carry the disc with the 
>> wheel use sliding or swinging dropouts but these are not really something 
>> you want to be adjusting on the fly.
>>
>> A double chainring setup really is the simplest. It's a quick change and 
>> adds a few seconds to the process.
>>
>> If you adopt a constant chain length dual ring/cog setup, sliding 
>> dropouts (or an EBB) make the change even quicker as you just drop the 
>> wheel, swap the cog/ring and reinsert.
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 10:19:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, but I don't want that complication. I want (if I can get it) the 
>>> simplicity of my Riv customer gofast: QR rear hub, Dingle cog, long 
>>> horizontal dropouts. I don't necessarily need these means but I do want the 
>>> same end.
>>>
>>> On Sun, Oct 15, 2023 at 4:31 PM Eric Daume  wrote:
>>>
>>>> The simplest solution is to also use two chainrings, matching the cog 
>>>> difference (for instance, with a 16/18 Dos freewheel, use 42 and 44t 
>>>> chainrings). Then the 44/16 and 42/18 have the same chain length, and the 
>>>> rotor to pad relationship doesn't change.
>>>>
>>>> Or just use a disc front and a rim

Re: [RBW] Best way to arrange 2-cog manual shifting for "single speed" disc braked bicycle

[DavidP]

Patrick, I hope I am understanding what you are looking for, but the DOS 
freewheels are still made in the two tooth differential versions; it's only 
the three tooth differential version (16/19) that was discontinued.

I'm not sure if you are looking for DOS freewheels in this situation though 
as these are thread on and not splined
If you are looking at a different wheelset on this hypothetical bike and a 
standard single speed threaded hub then the DOS will work:
https://www.whiteind.com/product/double-freewheels

Regarding disc brakes, to Eric's point I know of no way to have the quick 
change of gearing you are looking for with non constant chain length and a 
rear disc. Most single speed disc options that carry the disc with the 
wheel use sliding or swinging dropouts but these are not really something 
you want to be adjusting on the fly.

A double chainring setup really is the simplest. It's a quick change and 
adds a few seconds to the process.

If you adopt a constant chain length dual ring/cog setup, sliding dropouts 
(or an EBB) make the change even quicker as you just drop the wheel, swap 
the cog/ring and reinsert.

-Dave

On Sunday, October 15, 2023 at 10:19:14 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Thanks, but I don't want that complication. I want (if I can get it) the 
> simplicity of my Riv customer gofast: QR rear hub, Dingle cog, long 
> horizontal dropouts. I don't necessarily need these means but I do want the 
> same end.
>
> On Sun, Oct 15, 2023 at 4:31 PM Eric Daume  wrote:
>
>> The simplest solution is to also use two chainrings, matching the cog 
>> difference (for instance, with a 16/18 Dos freewheel, use 42 and 44t 
>> chainrings). Then the 44/16 and 42/18 have the same chain length, and the 
>> rotor to pad relationship doesn't change.
>>
>> Or just use a disc front and a rim brake rear, and a forward facing 
>> horizontal dropout (like typical UJBs have)
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 15, 2023 at 6:12 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> Thinking out loud; help me clarify my thoughts.
>>>
>>> I think of devising a Monocog replacement, with 622X76/29X3" wheels, but 
>>> instead of a mono cog, with a duo cog. This hypothetical bike would have 
>>> disc brakes. I don't want to use a chain tensioner, and I prefer to take 
>>> advantage of the greater gear ratio differences between cogs of different 
>>> sizes compared to rings with the same tooth differences, and of the 
>>> consequent smaller axle movement required to adjust chain slack, so the 
>>> multiple cogs would be in the back and not on the crank.
>>>
>>> On my beloved 1999 Joe Starck Riv Road Custom fixie I use a 17/19 Dingle 
>>> on a Phil hub with a QR axle; it's very easy to stop, flip the QR lever, 
>>> move the chain, align the wheel, and tighten the QR.
>>>
>>> That's what I imagine for the Monocog replacement.
>>>
>>> 1. Disc brakes. But this bike would have disc brakes. I'd probably not 
>>> need more than a 2-t cog difference, but will your typical caliper/rotor 
>>> setup accept the 1/4" axle movement? (1/8" of axle movement is required -- 
>>> so they say; I've never measured it and take it on faith -- to accomodate a 
>>> 1 tooth sprocket difference.)
>>>
>>> 2. Two cogs. How to get 2 cogs onto a suitable "ss" hub with a 
>>> freewheel. The DIngle isn't made anymore and in any event wasn't made -- am 
>>> I right? -- with 2-teeth gaps. The Monocog has a freehub designed to take 1 
>>> single Shimano-spline-type cog; there's no room for a second cog. >>>What 
>>> options does one have to get 2 cogs with a 2-tooth difference onto a hub 
>>> suitable for a QR axle?
>>>
>>> I realize that I could just use an old 7 speed Shimano freehub, and I 
>>> might end up doing that, but I'd prefer to have a hub that does not require 
>>> a wide stack of spacers.
>>>
>>> 3. Axle type and dropouts/trackends/thru-axle holes. I know that long 
>>> forward-facing horizontal dropouts, a QR axle, and a hub with 2 cogs on 1 
>>> side allows very easy manual shifting, as this sort of shifting goes. I am 
>>> also pretty sure that a good builder can use 135 mm OL spacing and still 
>>> give me the stay clearance I need for true 3" tires, so I'm inclined to 
>>> stick with this very old-fashioned wheel attachment method.
>>>
>>> But if there are other wheel attachment methods that allow you to easily 
>>> move the chain from one cog to another, I'd be interested to learn about 
>>> them. Sliding dropouts? 
>>>
>>> Are there any other things to consider ?
>>>
>>> Thanks, Patrick Moore, who had a nice ride to church and back today on a 
>>> pretty Fall day riding the Monocog with 72 mm tires and a single 65" gear 
>>> despite the bosque trail sand and the rear tire knobs occasionally 
>>> "whisping" on the chainstays (I fixed seatstay clearance with a hammer). 
>>> The Silca Impero with Campy head and the Road-style BB7s pulled by non-aero 
>>> DC levers are ironic but in fact work very well. When braking from the 
>>> hoods you simply pull from 

Re: [RBW] Re: Carrying groceries on your bike

[DavidP]

I came across this Kickstarter campaign 

 
for a rack mounted device designed to securely hold shopping bags and was 
reminded of this thread. It's interesting if you mostly use these types of 
reusable grocery bags.

-Dave

On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 7:36:56 PM UTC-4 Dorothy C wrote:

> I have a Burley Nomad and a Burley Travoy (seat post mount). I have found 
> that the axle hitch on the Nomad doesn’t fit on my little 26” Appaloosa as 
> the curved drop out protector comes in too tight to allow the Nomad hitch 
> to sit flat, so I leave the Nomad hitch on the Clem, and the Travoy hitch 
> on the Appa.  I bought the extra shopping bags for the Travoy so loading it 
> works better than the big soft sided bag it comes with.  I also have the 
> choice of Backabike bags and a Nitto basket rack and Wald racer basket on 
> the Clem if I am not shopping for as much stuff. The Clem is nice and 
> stable with panniers - it is a 26” wheel 2019 45cm. 
>
> On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 8:21:45 AM UTC-7 ericf3 wrote:
>
>>
>>> It's been a few years since I was the grocery-getter in this household, 
>>> but I used to use rear panniers and a very large backpack. The heavy stuff 
>>> went in the panniers or low in the backpack.
>>
>>
>> I favour backpacks as a heavy guy (95 kg), as they enable me to use my 
>> legs as shock absorbers. (I also used one for my work commute.)
>>
>> I tried a front basket but did not like it for any kind of load.
>>
>> It worked for me as I lived down a hill from my grocery stores and could 
>> mostly coast home... 
>>
>> EricF
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: is it blasphemous to ask how you think a Roadini would compare to a Crust Malocchio?

[DavidP]

Yes, much - 
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5bb29e327581960016665a32,6207ee4bee32e9001d9b652c,

On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 4:51:31 PM UTC-4 eddietheflay wrote:

> Truth be told I prefer as much stack as possible due to needing bars 
> significantly above saddle height. I could do that with the Crust but my 
> stem might look like it's touching the sky. Of course as mentioned above I 
> know I like light better but the Riv geo is better for my fit and aesthetic 
> preferences. Headtube on Crust is typical old style short and I think 
> (while not quoted by Riv) that the Roadini is taller.
>
> On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 1:27:35 PM UTC-7 exliontamer wrote:
>
>> I'm currently selling a pre-production XL Malocchio & have actually 
>> ridden both...and am looking for a 57cm Roadini. They are very different. 
>> The Malocchio is incredibly lightweight. My XL, which is technically a 63cm 
>> frame, weighs 6.3 lbs for the frame, fork, and headset with spacers. I can 
>> say from the experience of owning a lot of XL steel frames that it's at 
>> least a pound lighter all together than any classic lightweight steel bike 
>> I've owned in that size (62cm & up).
>> As to the ride the Malocchio rides like a straight up road bike (my 
>> points of comparison are my old RB-1 & my old Bianchi Reparto Corse with 
>> EL/OS). It just happens to fit 42s (at least the pre-production model does) 
>> & is aluminum light. I feel like people trying to pigeonhole the Roadini 
>> has been beat into the ground so I'm not going to compare the two other 
>> than saying they ride very different. The Malocchio is very responsive & 
>> the Roadini (to me) rides like a springy Riv. 
>> As to one being more or less multi-purpose? It really depends on what you 
>> want to do and how you like a bike to fit & feel. 42 width tires can take 
>> you a lot of places.
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 2:27:08 PM UTC-5 eddietheflay wrote:
>>
>>> Seems the Crust would be more road racy and the Riv more long, relaxed 
>>> and multi purpose. I know we're not supposed to talk about weight but I 
>>> can't help wondering if there's much difference one vs the other. Just 
>>> wondering.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: is it blasphemous to ask how you think a Roadini would compare to a Crust Malocchio?

[DavidP]

Ronnie Romance has some thoughts (including weight) over at ronsbikesblog 
.

I think you've basically summed it up. Though the Malocchio is more road 
racy when compared to the the Roadini, in the grand scheme it's geometry is 
still endurance biased. The tubing on the Malocchio is very lightweight.. I 
recently picked up a prototype 57cm frameset that weighs 6lbs 
(frame/fork/headset).

-Dave


On Tuesday, October 10, 2023 at 3:27:08 PM UTC-4 eddietheflay wrote:

> Seems the Crust would be more road racy and the Riv more long, relaxed and 
> multi purpose. I know we're not supposed to talk about weight but I can't 
> help wondering if there's much difference one vs the other. Just wondering.

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[RBW] Re: New Riv Day!!

[DavidP]

Welcome to the Riv mixte crew, Marc - looking forward to seeing it built up!

-Dave (on a Platy near Boston)

On Friday, October 6, 2023 at 3:27:13 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> That's a nice frame, Marc. Leah is the Riv mixte whisperer, they find her! 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 6:46:51 AM UTC-7 Marc Irwin wrote:
>
>> Thanks to Leah Peterson for putting me in touch with Michael Downs, I now 
>> have a limited edition Yves Gomez.  I've wanted a Riv mixte since I heard 
>> of the Wilbury, but I hadn't happened for a variety of reasons.  I'm really 
>> glad to have the Yves because it's a color I like while the new Platypus 
>> colors are not, and I don't think I'd care for the longer chainstays 
>> either.  Although I could ride a 60 cm mixte,  the 55 Michael had should 
>> ride just like the 56 Sam and 54 Hunq that I have now.  Perhaps it's the 
>> end of N+1 for 
>> me...maybe...for now.
>> .[image: Yves 1.jpg][image: Yves 2.jpg][image: Yves 3.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: What shoes does your Riv wear?

[DavidP]

Paul 
- From 
https://www.somafab.com/archives/product/supple-vitesse-ex-700c-clincher-tire, 
original SV sizes were 23, 28, 33, 38, and 42. My interpretation is that 
Soma is continuing to make the 42mm SV and the statement you quoted should 
be read as the available sizes are now 28c to 42c, (23c no longer being 
made).

Best,
-Dave

On Thursday, October 5, 2023 at 9:06:07 PM UTC-4 Paul in Dallas wrote:

>
>
> I'm running Soma Supple Vitesse EX in the 700 x 42 on my Sam Hillborne 
> and like them a lot.
>
> I think 380 g's for that size tire is not bad and the price is good.
>
> I just saw on the Soma site they are no longer making that size. Here's 
> their verbiage.
> (Sizes: 28c to 42c 23c (no longer made)
>
> I haven't had any flats yet on them after around 300 to 400 miles.
>
> In my area I'm always dodging glass.
>
> I can't figure the mindset of the goofballs that through glass out on the 
> pavement.
> Makes me want to cuss. Well, I do if I roll over it.
>
> Someone else mentioned the Continental Contact Speed tires.
> I used them on other bikes in a 26" and 700c size and liked them.
> I guess they are discontinued now or at least hard to find. They wore very 
> well for me.
>
> Perhaps the Continental Contact Urban took over that spot.
>
> I'm running the Contact Urban on bikes in a 26 x 2.20 and a 700c x 42 and 
> they roll really well.
> No flats after several hundred miles.
>
> I only run with inner tubes in all my bikes ... haven't tried tubeless yet.
>
> This rolling resistance review guy gave them pretty good marks and a 
> highly recommend status.
>
>
> https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/tour-reviews/continental-contact-urban
>
> Paul in Dallas 
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] What shoes does your Riv wear?

[DavidP]

Matthew - What makes you think you are doing anything wrong (aside from 
running over glass (which isn't always avoidable)? The Kendas (assuming you 
had the Kwick 9s, which are Big Ben-ish in design and weight) likely had 
much thicker tread and casing and that's part of the trade-off with more 
supple tires - they aren't as armored.

What pressures are you running on those 700x50s? As Piaw alludes, flats 
aren't always preventable, but it seems that running pressures as low as 
reasonable helps.

-Dave
On Wednesday, October 4, 2023 at 5:28:01 PM UTC-4 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I just got my second flat tire: a small chunk of glass pierced my 
> brand-new rear Schwalbe G-One Overland. The tire had less than fifty miles 
> on it.
>
> In the past two months, I’ve had more flats with new tires than I had in 
> the past three years with the Kenda tires that came stock from RBW.
>
> What am I doing wrong? Do I need liners inside the tires, better/more 
> durable tubes, different tires, or all three?
>

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[RBW] Re: Best mitten design for very cold weather

[DavidP]

I've found that barmitts or pogies trap heat and keep the wind off allowing 
me to ride without gloves around freezing temps, and with thinner gloves as 
the temps drop lower. The best solution for warmth and dexterity, but they 
require your shifters, grips, and brake levers to all be in close 
proximity. There are flat bar and drop bar specific versions.

-Dave (in MA, where we skipped winter last year)

On Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 4:15:59 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> The fall style thread raises a question about keeping your hands warm in 
> very cold temperatures (for me, very cold means in the teens F). My fingers 
> are very sensitive to the cold. I've bought 2 or 3 pairs of PI Lobster 
> gloves but I've been disappointed in the fit and the warmth. 
>
> I've used Outdoor Research heavy nylon mitten sheaths with thick boiled 
> wool mittens underneath, and those were very warm indeed, but very awkward 
> to ride in, even on a fixed gear where you have to handle only the brake 
> levers.
>
> Varusteleka currently has a number of mil surplus mittens with separate 
> thumb, separate thumb and trigger finger, and separate thumb and first 2 
> fingers. The whole point of mittens is to bundle the fingers together in 
> one compartment for mutual warmth, so each added finger compartment 
> sacrifices warmth.
>
> Does anyone have thoughts on a glove or a mitten or a system that gives 
> the best mix of warmth and dexterity? And perhaps some particular gloves or 
> mittens that fit the bill?
>
> Right now, I've got hugely oversized 5-finger gloves under which I can 
> wear wool knit gloves, under which in turn I can wear silk liners, but this 
> sort of layer system is cumbersome to put on and take off.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> -
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
> -
>
> Executive resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, letters, and other writing 
> services.
>
>
> -
>
> *When thou didst not, savage,*
>
> *Know thine own meaning, but wouldst gabble like*
>
> *A thing most brutish, I endowed thy purposes*
>
> *With words that made them known.*
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Northern Hemisphere Summer Riding Photos 2023

[DavidP]

Kim - the stone arch trail is in Westford, MA.

-Dave

On Friday, September 22, 2023 at 11:54:34 PM UTC-4 Kim H. wrote:

> Very cool Dave. 
> Where is this old rail line trail ?
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>
> On Friday, September 22, 2023 at 7:00:29 PM UTC-7 DavidP wrote:
>
>> Got a nice ride in on the Platypus for the last day of Summer. Part of 
>> the loop included an unpaved trail that used to be part of a rail line and 
>> features a stone arch bridge.
>>
>> [image: PXL_20230922_132606809_arch-1800.jpg]
>> [image: PXL_20230922_133612399-arch-1800.jpg]
>>
>> [image: PXL_20230922_133730270-grafiti-1800.jpg]
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 20, 2023 at 8:53:53 PM UTC-4 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> The best part of riding on the road? The art, of course! (Apologies for 
>>> the spoiler.)
>>> [image: IMG_2007.jpeg]
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 18, 2023 at 5:20:01 PM UTC-7 Kim H. wrote:
>>>
>>>> @ Takashi -
>>>>
>>>> I love the Pacific Northwest here in Washington state with all of the 
>>>> mountains and trees. It may rain eight or nine months out the year. 
>>>> However, when the sun is out and not too hot, It is absolutely glorious. 
>>>>
>>>> I wanted to keep riding further on the Willapa Hills Trail, but I did 
>>>> not want to go too far beyond my limits. To experience such a beautiful 
>>>> trail was amazing.
>>>>
>>>> I thank-you for your observation praise on my Clem.  
>>>>
>>>> I see that you have the same pedals as I do. Cool !  
>>>>
>>>> Have you considered buying some extension wings for your pedals  ?
>>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/mks-monarch-extension
>>>>
>>>> They really do help. 
>>>>
>>>> Smiles to you.
>>>>
>>>> Kim Hetzel
>>>> Yelm, WA.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, September 18, 2023 at 6:04:02 AM UTC-7 Takashi wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Kim, you live in a very beautiful place! It must have been fun to ride 
>>>>> that trail.
>>>>> And your Clem is gorgeous.
>>>>>
>>>>> Mid-September and it's still very hot here.
>>>>> Soba (from which Japanese soba noodles are made) patches are in full 
>>>>> bloom.
>>>>>
>>>>> [image: DSC03285.jpg]
>>>>>
>>>>> Takashi
>>>>>
>>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front basket rack recommendations

[DavidP]

Hi Alex,

Just double checking - but you mention a Wald 139 basket (the larger one) 
and the Tunitas 137 tote (the one designed for the Wald 137 basket).

If you are looking for the larger basket, then the Pelago Rasket may be 
worth a look. It's another combo basket and front rack and the basket is 
slightly larger than the Wald 139.

-Dave

On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 1:12:26 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> I thought it odd that the basket was a bit larger than a Wald 137. Seems 
> so many nice basket bags are perfectly sized for the 137. I have been very 
> happy mounting my 137 via zip ties to a Tumbleweed “T” rack. The best thing 
> about the Tumbleweed racks is the 3 bolt mounts built in to the support 
> legs. Makes these racks very versatile.
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 21, 2023, at 12:54 PM, greenteadrinkers  
> wrote:
>
> In the latest PLP video, Russ brings to light a nice basket solution from 
> a company called Manivelle. The Le Porteur version is a little less than 2 
> lbs, which is kind of amazing for a basket and rack combination. The 
> standard version seems to work well with a basket bag. Looks like you might 
> spend under $100 for the Manivelle.
>
>
> https://cyclesmanivelle.com/en/-shop/racks-baskets/
>
> On Thursday, September 21, 2023 at 12:19:47 PM UTC-4 ack...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Just found a screamin deal on a fully built 51 Sam. Now it's time to get 
>> it kitted out. I love my Pass And Stow for the heavy duty- stuff and 
>> aesthetically, it's unmatched IMO. Perhaps a bit of overkill as a simple 
>> basket rack. Would love an RBW51 Nitto rack, but not sure I can justify the 
>> $288 plus tax. Looking for something simple and elegant and cost-efficient 
>> for mounting a Wald 139 Hardware-less Basket and a Tunitas 137 Tote. 
>> If anybody has a well used RBW51 that they would be willing to part with, 
>> I'd love to hear from you.
>> Also looking for other options and would love to see what y'all are using 
>> for your Wald 139 Baskets.
>> Thanks!
>> Alex
>> a c k s f 7 8 gmail
>>
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> .
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Re: [RBW] Re: 26” MTB Tire Advice

[DavidP]

Will - It's a good price, just note that the K-guard version is wired vs 
the more expensive folding bead version.

-Dave

On Thursday, September 7, 2023 at 2:04:40 PM UTC-4 wboe...@gmail.com wrote:

> This Billy Bonkers 
> 
>  
> price is the best deal out there, IMO.
>
> Will
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 7, 2023 at 2:01 PM Bones  wrote:
>
>> Wow, I totally lost track of this. Thanks for the suggestions all. No, no 
>> sadly I do not have any friends with 26” tires hanging around. I guess I’m 
>> just looking for any good deals (sales, clearance, etc). I don’t have any 
>> number in mind, but I’d rather not shell out $70+ a tire for a bike that 
>> either way will not see much use. In southern NJ btw, outside of Philly.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Bones
>>
>> On Saturday, August 26, 2023 at 10:07:16 AM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I’m a HUGE fan of the SimWorks Super Yummy. I’ve run them now on two 
>>> bikes, 26” and 29” and can say they’re some of my favorite tires. They’re a 
>>> bit pricier than other options, but they usually last me a year or two of 
>>> almost daily riding (call it somewhere between 5-6k miles). They do pick up 
>>> small pinholes from road debris once the center track wears down smooth but 
>>> if you’re not running tubeless, or you use a good sealant (I like orange 
>>> seal) they don’t cause any issue. They’re fast rolling on pavement and he’s 
>>> pack dirt and they’ve got good cornering grip on both surfaces as well. I 
>>> might advise against them on very muddy trails, but that never stopped me 
>>> (see the attached…)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 25, 2023 at 11:14 PM Nick Shoemaker  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Good call - Ikon 2.2 is a goodie. Seems to last forever and was easier 
 to mount tubeless than Schwalbes. I’d personally be sketched out with one 
 on the front, but loved it as a rear tire in the summer.


 On Aug 25, 2023, at 11:03 PM, Hoch in ut  wrote:

 A good all-around tire is the Maxxis Ikon in 26 x 2.2. Rolls pretty 
 fast and has decent grip. I love it for XC rides. I put a pair on a 90’s 
 Stumpjumper a couple of years ago. Great tire. Not that expensive, either. 

 On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 9:59:55 AM UTC-6 Bones wrote:

> I recently pulled my wife’s old Cannondale F5 hardtail out of 
> hibernation with the intention of moving it along, but she now has a 
> renewed interest in it. It cleaned up nicely, but the tires are falling 
> apart. It looks like it can comfortably fit a 26x2.25, but I haven’t used 
> a 
> 26” tire since the early 90’s so I don’t know where to start. If anyone 
> can 
> point me to to a decent all around trail tire that doesn’t break the 
> bank, 
> I’d greatly appreciate it.
>
> Bones
>
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>>>
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[RBW] Re: WTB: Tall Stack, Short Reach Threadless Stem

[DavidP]

I have that stem on a drop bar MTB - no issues. If it isn't what you are 
looking for aesthetically, Velo Orange has the Happy Stem and Cigne.

-Dave

On Saturday, September 2, 2023 at 4:57:24 AM UTC-4 Dave S wrote:

> https://tinyurl.com/yff3arxv
>
> Seems to be the same as the Analog Gnome Hopper.
>
> On Friday, September 1, 2023 at 5:13:35 PM UTC-4 captaincon...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm *finally *building my BMC Monstercross, and I think I need a tall 
>> stack, short reach threadless stem with a removable faceplate and 31.8 
>> clamp similar to what Riv adjacent brands like Crust or Analog offer, but I 
>> am open to other suggestions since I exist in the quill ecosystem.  Thanks 
>> in advance.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho vs. Nitto Albatross

[DavidP]

David - it looks like your bar ends are Silver2s? If so Riv has Silver 
shifter thumb mounts 
<https://www.rivbike.com/products/z558mz-cnv-oialk?variant=31168895975535> in 
stock - you could just move the shifters from the bar end pods to the thumb 
mounts.

On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 5:41:09 PM UTC-4 David Pulsipher wrote:

> Thanks for all the suggestions guys. Eric - when I put the Albatross and 
> Billie on top of each other on Whatbars, they look almost identical in 
> width, just with a little more grip area which in turn makes them slightly 
> wider. I'm actually ok on grip area, just looking for more width in 
> general. I hear you on the bar-ends - I'm currently using the rivendell bar 
> ends and would likely convert them to thumbies. Might have to scour the 
> interweb to see if anyone is selling them, bummer they are sold out.
>
> While I have you, when do we get your next video? ; )
>
>
>
> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 3:26:14 PM UTC-6 Paul M wrote:
>
>> Having used the Albatross and Choco-moose handlebars for years and 
>> enjoying them, I recently put the Sycip Singles bar on my Kona Dr. Dew. I 
>> really like the extra width (650mm) and sweep (45 degree) of this bar. It 
>> has 200mm of straight grip area, unlike the Ortho and Tosco that don't have 
>> enough grip length before the bend for spreading out the brake and shifter 
>> controls. I would ride gravel but not mtb with these bars. Available on 
>> Soma Fabrication's web site.
>>
>> On Friday, 25 August 2023 at 13:03:51 UTC-7 David Pulsipher wrote:
>>
>>> Man Eric - what an epistle! Truly you have given me some deep things to 
>>> ponder.
>>> Right now I was thinking of putting them on my Surly Long Haul Trucker - 
>>> it's a 62cm. I'm 6'4 (and full of muscles).
>>>
>>> https://www.instagram.com/p/Ch7Y77ruZob/?img_index=1
>>>
>>> I ride 45 schwalbe marathons, but am up-sizing to 47's shortly.
>>>
>>> I use it for a commuter and touring set up - and ride about about 32 
>>> miles daily on my commute. Have been intrigued by the wider set up.
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 1:37:56 PM UTC-6 DavidP wrote:
>>>
>>>> We have two bikes with Albatross bars, a 65cm Tosco on my Platypus, and 
>>>> recently picked up an Ortho bar for another bike. I like the Albatross 
>>>> bars 
>>>> on roadish bikes and wider bars like the Orthos and Toscos on bikes with 
>>>> wider tires that see more dirt. 
>>>>
>>>> The 69cm Orthos are significantly wider than the 55cm Albatross 
>>>> throughout the grip range and come back further (they don't extend as far 
>>>> forward as the Albatross).
>>>>
>>>> The Orthos are actually very similar to the 65cm Toscos - just a touch 
>>>> wider and with a bit more rise. There'd be nothing in swap between them 
>>>> except the stem (26.0 vs 31.8) and some weight.
>>>>
>>>> Another (inexpensive) bar that is very close to the Ortho (and Tosco) 
>>>> is the Wald 896. I mocked up my build using these and was very happy with 
>>>> them, though the price difference is apparent in the finish and weight.
>>>>
>>>> What bike would they be going on? What size tires and how is it used?
>>>>
>>>> -Dave
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 1:51:07 PM UTC-4 David Pulsipher wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi there,
>>>>>
>>>>> I've been using the Nitto Albatross now for over 13 years - and love 
>>>>> it immensely. But recently I've been intrigued by the idea of going 
>>>>> wider, 
>>>>> much wider. Was wondering if any one had made a similar transition and 
>>>>> would mind sharing their thoughts, reflections.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks hive mind!
>>>>>
>>>>>  
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho vs. Nitto Albatross

[DavidP]

Great looking LHT - wider bars will fit right in on that rig. You may want 
to consider a longer stem to avoid knee contact, also Orthos are not bar 
end shifter compatible so you'd need to switch the shifters to thumb mounts 
or something.

-Dave

On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 4:03:51 PM UTC-4 David Pulsipher wrote:

> Man Eric - what an epistle! Truly you have given me some deep things to 
> ponder.
> Right now I was thinking of putting them on my Surly Long Haul Trucker - 
> it's a 62cm. I'm 6'4 (and full of muscles).
>
> https://www.instagram.com/p/Ch7Y77ruZob/?img_index=1
>
> I ride 45 schwalbe marathons, but am up-sizing to 47's shortly.
>
> I use it for a commuter and touring set up - and ride about about 32 miles 
> daily on my commute. Have been intrigued by the wider set up.
>
> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 1:37:56 PM UTC-6 DavidP wrote:
>
>> We have two bikes with Albatross bars, a 65cm Tosco on my Platypus, and 
>> recently picked up an Ortho bar for another bike. I like the Albatross bars 
>> on roadish bikes and wider bars like the Orthos and Toscos on bikes with 
>> wider tires that see more dirt. 
>>
>> The 69cm Orthos are significantly wider than the 55cm Albatross 
>> throughout the grip range and come back further (they don't extend as far 
>> forward as the Albatross).
>>
>> The Orthos are actually very similar to the 65cm Toscos - just a touch 
>> wider and with a bit more rise. There'd be nothing in swap between them 
>> except the stem (26.0 vs 31.8) and some weight.
>>
>> Another (inexpensive) bar that is very close to the Ortho (and Tosco) is 
>> the Wald 896. I mocked up my build using these and was very happy with 
>> them, though the price difference is apparent in the finish and weight.
>>
>> What bike would they be going on? What size tires and how is it used?
>>
>> -Dave
>>
>> On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 1:51:07 PM UTC-4 David Pulsipher wrote:
>>
>>> Hi there,
>>>
>>> I've been using the Nitto Albatross now for over 13 years - and love it 
>>> immensely. But recently I've been intrigued by the idea of going wider, 
>>> much wider. Was wondering if any one had made a similar transition and 
>>> would mind sharing their thoughts, reflections.
>>>
>>> Thanks hive mind!
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Ron's Ortho vs. Nitto Albatross

[DavidP]

We have two bikes with Albatross bars, a 65cm Tosco on my Platypus, and 
recently picked up an Ortho bar for another bike. I like the Albatross bars 
on roadish bikes and wider bars like the Orthos and Toscos on bikes with 
wider tires that see more dirt. 

The 69cm Orthos are significantly wider than the 55cm Albatross throughout 
the grip range and come back further (they don't extend as far forward as 
the Albatross).

The Orthos are actually very similar to the 65cm Toscos - just a touch 
wider and with a bit more rise. There'd be nothing in swap between them 
except the stem (26.0 vs 31.8) and some weight.

Another (inexpensive) bar that is very close to the Ortho (and Tosco) is 
the Wald 896. I mocked up my build using these and was very happy with 
them, though the price difference is apparent in the finish and weight.

What bike would they be going on? What size tires and how is it used?

-Dave

On Friday, August 25, 2023 at 1:51:07 PM UTC-4 David Pulsipher wrote:

> Hi there,
>
> I've been using the Nitto Albatross now for over 13 years - and love it 
> immensely. But recently I've been intrigued by the idea of going wider, 
> much wider. Was wondering if any one had made a similar transition and 
> would mind sharing their thoughts, reflections.
>
> Thanks hive mind!
>
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Single Speed (QB/SO/RU..) Questions

[DavidP]

Your Quickbeam is gorgeous. I've been tempted by it since you first listed 
it - but I can't justify it. It's a premium build and being kind of a niche 
bike, a high end build will take more time to find the right buyer. I do 
wonder if any who might normally be in the market for a QB could be holding 
for the RoadUno even though they are pretty different bikes.

If you parted it out, much of it would probably go quickly but it would be 
a lot more work and you might end up holding some parts.

SS gearing is pretty personal for a lot of reasons (fitness, terrain, etc.) 
- I'm currently in the stage Eric used to be (40/42 chainrings, 17/19 
freewheel, 16t fixed) so my current singlespeed / fixed has three ratios:
~58" free - hilly and/or off-road rides, or just cruising around
~68" free - less hilly road rides
~72" fixed - road fixed

-Dave (in MA where the hills are mostly rolling)

On Thursday, August 24, 2023 at 8:42:36 PM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:

> I used to futz around with my old Cross Check, with lot of theoretical 
> geared and fixed combos out of a 36/40 chainring combo, a 16t fixed cog, 
> and a 16/19 freewheel. Or something. Now I'm simplifying and mostly just 
> run my old Trek with a 46/17 fixed gear, about 72" inches on 650b wheels. 
> That works fine for flat central Ohio. I have a freewheel on the flip side, 
> but I've never used it.
>
> Eric
>
> On Thu, Aug 24, 2023 at 8:11 PM Jason Zakaras  wrote:
>
>> So as its been posted, I'm selling my Quickbeam, but even with "too low" 
>> prices, its still not moving.  I also have options to figured out how to 
>> tow my newest addition and I can make space/have the space so who cares.  
>> The big concern for me is riding it and I don't find myself jumping on it 
>> as often as I'd like.  Partially due to the epic mtn bike scene immediately 
>> around me and my newly rebuilt bombora that I absolutely love.  That said, 
>> It would be fun to hit the trails on a QB and I have a pass rack and 
>> some bags I'd like to use to do some camping with my twin boys (7) and the 
>> SS would be a nice way to enjoy the trip out to the woods with them.  
>>
>> The question I pose is what gear options do you all enjoy.  I've dug into 
>> the internets and I'm sure there is a post or 100 on this here already but 
>> I figured with the upcoming roduno and its many possibilities, this might 
>> be a fun chat to dig into.
>>
>> I'm currently at 48-18 and its great climbing around rural gravel roads 
>> in the midwest but now I'm in steeper hills its a bear-cat.
>>
>> Thanks xo
>> Jason Cheap QB For Sale.
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: So I tried bike racing...

[DavidP]

Clark - congrats on a well ridden race and a fun new experience. The San 
Jose is a great bike - a single speed/fixed sibling of the slightly more 
common Volpe. I have a Volpe setup with a flip flop hub and Albatross bars. 
If you have a photo, I'd be interested in seeing your San Jose.

As a general comment, my take on the Riv/Grant rhetoric is that it is less 
about discouraging racing (and extreme MTB, etc.) as a riding style, and 
more about opposing the disproportionate influence these have on bike 
industry trends and increasing mind share around less spectacular forms of 
cycling. There are a few drivers for this, but the concerns are mostly 
about technology displacement (new, incompatible tech displacing older tech 
for reasons other than merit and without regard to negative effects) and 
accessibility (simpler and more practical bikes being more accessible and 
useful than those stripped down to focus on sport).

Ride (or race) on!

-Dave

On Wednesday, July 26, 2023 at 11:13:42 AM UTC-4 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I never understood the need for groups of cyclists to denigrate the kind 
> of cycling other people do.
>
> In the 1990s, I rode with a cyclist who was sponsored by Bridgestone, Eric 
> House (the first man to do Furnace Creek 508 in under 30 hours: 
> https://www.furnacecreek508.com/reports/1992fc508.html).
>
> One time he read an article on the Rivendell Reader where Grant wrote 
> about cycling for fun being a better form of cycling than racing. He said: 
> "What, those of us who commute or use the bike for utility can't be in a 
> hurry to get to a meeting on time?" Every time you have to take your kids 
> to school on a bike you're effectively in a race against time, and there's 
> absolutely nothing wrong with that. Sure, it's nice to have lots of time 
> and go as slow as you like, but I found Eric House's arguments compelling 
> as well. And there are times when you feel like pushing hard and there's 
> also nothing wrong with that.
>
> Similarly sometimes I read something about how certain forms of mountain 
> biking should be considered "stunt riding", and I find myself thinking, if 
> they're having fun on a bike, I see nothing wrong with that. The first 
> folks who descended Mt. Tam on balloon tires were denigrated by the Sierra 
> Clubs and other conservative organizations as doing something unnatural. In 
> the end cyclists lost the battle and most single-track on Mt. Tam, the 
> birthplace of mountain biking is banned to cyclists. I find that very sad.
>
> One of my friends recently convinced me to visit Whistler for a downhill 
> MTB trip. It's the antithesis of what I usually do, taking a ski lift up a 
> mountain and riding the bike downhill (
> https://blog.piaw.net/2023/07/2023-whistler-day-1.html). When I got off 
> the ski lift I rode up the ramp to the start of one of the trails and the 
> instructor said to me, "You're not supposed to do that. You're supposed to 
> walk up the ramp." It was hilarious since obviously in road cycling, 
> walking means failure. My kids complained about having to take classes and 
> threatened to crash deliberately so they didn't have to do it. But by the 
> end of the 3rd day they were no longer complaining and the older one asked 
> for a fourth day. As one of my friends said: "When you do a jump and get a 
> half second of air time it's one of the most amazing feelings in the 
> world." And once again I find it hard to argue against that.
>
> All I have to say is ride bike. Any bike anywhere any time. It's always 
> better than being in a car, and it's always fun!  
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 1:56:19 PM UTC-7 Clark Fitzgerald wrote:
>
>> ... and it was a ton of fun!
>>
>> My paddling buddy called me a couple days before the Great American 
>> Triathlon  because they needed 
>> a cyclist to ride as part of a relay team. I've never raced before, but I 
>> have been riding touring bikes and commuting since 2007, living the "Riv 
>> Life". Along the way I've picked up a fair amount of prejudice towards 
>> racing, but now I realize that my attitude was indeed just that- prejudice. 
>> Racing offers its own kind of joy.
>>
>> I rode my craigslist special, a steel fixed gear Bianchi San Jose with 
>> 40mm tires and a 76.5" gear. Among the relay teams, it was the only fixed 
>> gear, and the only single speed. Most people had carbon road bikes, and 
>> there were a handful of time trial bikes. I did see one classic, high 
>> handlebar laid back Rivendell. I performed better than I expected, 
>> averaging 22 mph over the 12.5 mile course to place 8th out of 129 teams 
>> for the cycling leg. Drafting was allowed, but I didn't have a chance to 
>> draft anyone, because our runner (the first leg) was extremely fast with a 
>> 5:20 mile pace, and that gave me a 3 minute head start.
>>
>> I would do it again, because I enjoyed pushing myself as hard as I could. 
>> If there were convenient 

[RBW] Re: Clem: Fleecer Ridge vs Antelope Hill?

[DavidP]

Hi Jim,

It sounds like your Clem is 700c, but I think you'd find Leah's recent 
thread on gravel-izing her 650b Clem helpful: 
https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/f8_g6tiXU7o/m/VJWI0Z36AgAJ

Most of the tires mentioned have 700c versions.
That thread also covers related questions on the pros/cons of tubeless, 
fenders on gravel bikes, and which type of animal excrement is the worst to 
ride through.

-Dave

On Tuesday, July 18, 2023 at 1:00:11 PM UTC-4 Jim Bronson wrote:

> Anyone tried either one of these tires on their Clem?  I know Rene Herse 
> tires are a bit high zoot.  Any feedback out there?  The goal is something 
> that rolls easily on the street, but, can mix it up in the gravel as well.
>
> Also open to other suggestions.
>
> Jim
> Austin MSA, TX
>
> -- 
> --
> signature goes here
>

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[RBW] Re: 2023 Riv Geo Chart

[DavidP]

Great resource - nice to have all the numbers in one place.

As for stated tire clearances - it may vary from model to model (Roadini's 
at ~42 sound right) but some look to be pretty conservative. For example, 
Platys fit 55s without issue; I'm running 50s (measuring a full 2") with 
fenders. Then there's Grant's maxxed out Clem 
 with 2.6" 
tires vs the ~55mm on the chart.

-Dave

On Saturday, July 15, 2023 at 3:05:15 AM UTC-4 Hetchins52 wrote:

> Interesting to see that the chart shows a 2.5" max tire width for the 
> Gus/Susie lineup.
> The RivBike site says 2.6" max and when the frames first came out they 
> were expected to fit up to 2.8". That was ... optimistic!
> And, the website no longer shows a 60cm option for the GBW frames.
> David (Susie in 53/650b) Lipsky
> Berkeley
> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 5:54:19 PM UTC-7 steve...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Thanks for sharing this Max.  I enjoy geeking out on the numbers!
>>
>> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 7:50:46 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> Here's a little nugget from Will's email, I know a few people were 
>>> looking for the geo charts of the new frames.
>>> Max
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Roaduno

[DavidP]

Johnny - no tensioner required for single speed; the dropout allows the 
rear axle to slide to tension the chain. There is also derailleur hanger to 
support for tensioner for a 2x1 or 3x1 setup. 

On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 12:11:05 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> My area is way too hilly and I am way too old to entertain a single speed 
> (or two or three speed) anyway so its not something I am interested in BUT 
> I was still curious. If its designed to use a tensioner then why not just 
> single speed one of their existing bikes?
>
> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 10:19:37 AM UTC-4 velomann wrote:
>
>> Correction - not track dropouts; horizontal facing forward (I think).
>> Mike M
>>
>> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 7:15:07 AM UTC-7 velomann wrote:
>>
>>> Grant wants folks to be able to run a double crankset and front 
>>> derailleur if they want. It's an odd duck for sure; 120mm rear spacing with 
>>> track dropouts but a derailleur hanger. And there might be a braze-on for 
>>> running a shift cable for a front derailleur if they can't find a good 
>>> bolt-on option.
>>> Wouldn't be my choice but I'm getting one anyway ;-)
>>>
>>> Mike M
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 14, 2023 at 5:28:39 AM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>
 Question about thatif it requires a string tensioner then what 
 makes it a singlespeed specific frame? He said it had horizontal dropouts 
 which is what would typically fix the need for a tensioner.

 On Thursday, July 13, 2023 at 11:19:40 PM UTC-4 Jason Fuller wrote:

> The PLP interview mentioned the samples coming late this month, and 
> the production frames probably pushed over new years now.  I have to say, 
> when Grant said it's essentially a singlespeed Homer, I became suddenly 
> interested. 
>
> On Friday, 7 July 2023 at 09:44:49 UTC-7 Edwin W wrote:
>
>> The mid-May Blahg did say December in purple and dark orange. Or 
>> purple and Sergio green. 
>>
>> We will see!
>>
>> Love the idea of it,
>>
>> Edwin
>>
>> On Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 5:40:16 PM UTC-5 penne...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The mid-May Blahg  
>>> has em 
>>> slated for December in purple and dark orange. 
>>> Mack in Alberta 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 4:21:05 PM UTC-6 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
 The latest update they published was in February. saying they'd 
 ship put of Taiwan in August/September.  That same email update said 
 there 
 would be a lugged Susie shipping in June and Platypus in July.  The 
 Susie's 
 don't seem to be here yet, so maybe push everything back a little.  
 October?

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Thursday, July 6, 2023 at 1:54:59 PM UTC-7 Dick Combs wrote:

> Anyone got any news/updates on availability?



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[RBW] Re: Kucharik wool shorts with real chamois or Andiamos under street shorts

[DavidP]

I just received a pair of Andiamos and have had a few rides in them - I 
think they are fine. For reference, I have a couple of other pairs of liner 
shorts even though for most rides regular synthetic underwear is all I 
need, but for some rides they are nice (not to mention on the trainer where 
this is less coasting/standing). 

The Andiamos actually have more padding then I expected - not as much as 
some shorts, but I have an old pair of Nashbar branded liner shorts that 
has less and more compliant padding (these seem to not use foam but 
microfleece padding). The Andiamos are fine and I will happily use them but 
I kind of expected something even more minimal.

-Dave
On Saturday, July 8, 2023 at 10:02:59 AM UTC-4 jrst...@gmail.com wrote:

> Patrick, I’ve never worn anything more comfortable than Kucharik wool 
> shorts. I had my time with synthetic skin tight shorts and bib shorts but 
> without high pads and while ok the Kucharik were still the most 
> comfortable. 
>
> On Friday, July 7, 2023 at 7:59:02 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> I was just perusing the new Riv email update and saw Andiamos.
>>
>> I gave up nastily clinging lycra shorts with nasty, bulky pillow pads 
>> over 20 years ago, but when I ride over 30 miles I do sometimes like to 
>> wear something a bit more bunch, crease, and chafe resistant than my usual 
>> oversized nylon boxers under street shorts or Rapha Randonee shorts.
>>
>> I've hoarded about 3 pairs of nice Kucharik wool shorts with real chamois 
>> or -- for one pair -- a synthetic that is also minimalist. 
>>
>> But I'd rather have something synthetic for ease of laundering and an 
>> undergarment that can be worn under any decent pair of shorts, as long as 
>> it serves as well the basic purpose of bike shorts: prevent bunching and 
>> chafing. Again, I'm not interested in padding; I chose the right saddle and 
>> I have it and bar positioned properly.
>>
>> So, those of you with relevant experience, will Andiamos be as 
>> comfortable under Rapha touring shorts as wool Kuchariks with chamois?
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Nicest silver Tektro upright canti brake levers?

[DavidP]

I also really like the FL540s (I dislike the extended clamp on the FL750s 
due to hand position interference). Note that they take a road brake cable 
end, which could prevent keeping the same cable setup.

On Tuesday, July 4, 2023 at 9:35:18 AM UTC-4 thetaper...@gmail.com wrote:

> I much like the FL750s.
>
> On Monday, July 3, 2023 at 8:35:21 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>
>> Of course I'm gonna say the reverso RX4.1 in all silver are the nicest !
>>
>> https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/nTMAAOSwiL9ij2Qk/s-l500.jpg
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa Build Opinions

[DavidP]

Albatross bars are pretty versatile  with a large range of positions and 
work well on roadish bikes that see some dirt. I've found that using a stem 
30-40mm longer than my drop bar stem puts the grips of the Albatross bar in 
a more upright position than the tops of the drop bar, and moving my hands 
up to the bends feels like riding on the hoods. You can get even lower by 
moving into the hooks of the Albatross bar and bending your elbows.

A brake lever with a low profile clamp is nice as it lets you place your 
hands anywhere from the grips to the bends comfortably.

-Dave

On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 11:05:07 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> If you don't want to be too upright and want to maintain a bit of the feel 
> of drops I highly recommend the choco or losco bars.
>
> On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 10:37:51 AM UTC-4 Valerie Yates wrote:
>
>> For me, when in doubt, try Albatross. Other bars can be hit or miss for 
>> me on different frames. The albatross never disappoints me. I just switched 
>> my Joe to from Chocomoose to albatross and they feel terrific - free and 
>> easy.  
>>
>> I don’t see a benefit in using a really short stem to maintain drop bars 
>> on a Joe. 
>>
>> On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 8:23:52 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> My limited experience with these bikes is that it's probably best to set 
>>> them up the way they were designed. That reach is such an important factor 
>>> in the comfort of a bike. I've been considering Joes and Sams and 
>>> Altantises a lot lately, and if I were to choose a Joe, it would definitely 
>>> have either Toscos or Billie bars. I can never imagine my Gus being 
>>> comfortable with anything other than upright, swept-back bars (like my 
>>> Toscos with a 110 stem), because the reach on the frame is so long. 
>>> Even classic models like the Atlantis and the Homer have changed so much 
>>> with the extended stays and longer reaches, that I feel like you see less 
>>> and less of these newer models with drops these days. Of course, there's 
>>> many different body types and styles of riding to factor into it, so to 
>>> each their own. Personally, I can't see myself owning another Rivendell 
>>> with drop bars unless it was an older, more traditionally designed model.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 29, 2023 at 10:08 AM Ted W  wrote:
>>>
 Got my Appa on Monday, built it yesterday and commuted to work on it 
 today. First impressions are that it's exactly what I had hoped for. The 
 ride is amazing and it feels so plush while still remaining responsive; 
 nimble yet stable. But I think it could still be better and I want to 
 channel the wisdom of the group.

 Currently, I have the bike built with drop bars (50cm V/O Randonneur). 
 However, I know this frame, like many of the Riv frames, is really built 
 with swept back bars in mind. Knowing this, I went with a stem that's 
 about 
 half my "typical" length. Unfortunately, it still feels like quite a reach 
 to get on the hoods, not impossible, but not "normal". So, this is where 
 my 
 question starts:

 Do I continue to try shortening the stem, say to maybe 30-40mm, or do I 
 give in to my swept bar destiny and spring for some new bars? And if I go 
 with sweeps, which bars do people like on the Appa? I have 65mm Tosco bars 
 on my Gus and it's wonderful on that bike, but being that I don't want to 
 be quite so upright (and there's not quite as much room) on the Appa. I 
 was 
 thinking of going with either Billie or Albatross bars. The two are so 
 similar, however, that I'm having a hard time deciding between the two. 
 I'm 
 probably splitting hairs, as usual, but I'm genuinely curious to see what 
 y'all think.

 Cheers,
 -- 
 Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >

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 .

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Northern Hemisphere Summer Riding Photos 2023

[DavidP]

Patrick, this is in Harvard, MA; my area of Massachusetts doesn't have a 
ton of hills high enough to give overlooks but this is a decent one. The 
bike is a Soma Pescadero with 700x33s under the VO fenders and Diacompe 
GC610 centerpulls - somewhat inspired by some of the Rambouillet / Romulus 
builds I've seen.

On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 3:03:05 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> David: Where was this photo taken? Beautiful SOMA -- what model? -- and 
> beautiful scenery (as is that in the Seattle and BC and Oakland photos).
>
> Patrick Moore, who must take some bosque acequia-trail photos with the 
> cottonwood fluff in the air.
>
> On Mon, Jun 19, 2023 at 10:51 AM DavidP  wrote:
>
>> Taking in the view at the top of the hill this morning.
>>
>> [image: PXL_20230619_130242278_prospect--hill-1800.jpg]
>>
>> On Saturday, June 17, 2023 at 7:34:16 PM UTC-4 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> A fine ride along Nakusp/Slocan trail skirting the Slocan Lake in 
>>> British Columbia. All alone save for the bears and the birds.
>>> [image: IMG_1311.jpeg]
>>> [image: IMG_1312.jpeg]
>>> On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 11:20:15 AM UTC-7 dblue...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Here's a mini ride report from my annual birthday ride this past 
>>>> weekend, first birthday ride since I got my Homer. The route was ~53 miles 
>>>> from home in Oakland to Samuel P. Taylor state park, by way of the 
>>>> Richmond/San Rafael bridge and the Bolinas Ridge trail. This was my first 
>>>> time on the Bolinas Ridge trail, and I was surprised by the contrast 
>>>> between how wet it was with the mist up at the top, where moisture was 
>>>> dripping down on us from the redwoods:
>>>> [image: IMG_0553.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> there were lot of mud puddles and loose organic material to ride 
>>>> through (here's some of what was still on my bike by the end of the ride):
>>>> [image: IMG_0571.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> contrasted with the dry meadow just a few miles to the northwest where 
>>>> the skies were blue and we picked up a couple hitchiking ticks:
>>>> [image: IMG_0566.jpg]
>>>> My riding buddies rated this route a top-tier birthday ride out of the 
>>>> 10 years I've been doing these rides (one friend has ridden all but one of 
>>>> these rides with me. And, of course, I'm not 10 years old, I just took up 
>>>> the tradition 10 years ago). Family came up by car with picnic and camping 
>>>> supplies for an overnighter at the park, and here's the bike ready for the 
>>>> more direct 35 mile ride home the next day:
>>>> [image: IMG_0572.jpg]
>>>> [image: IMG_0573.jpg]
>>>> --dan
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/82fe9b30-50ff-4a6a-a0ee-eb75cd117013n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Matt's Green Rosco Platypus (photos)

[DavidP]

Guys, I'm pretty sure that is just a shadow from the raised pedal/crank. 
(John - Platys, Rosco or otherwise, are designed for V-brakes and don't 
have built-in cable hangers for cantis.)

Matthew - welcome to the Platypus club! Great build and very nice light for 
the photos. Looking forward to seeing more ride photos (see the ongoing 
seasonal ride photo threads)!

-Dave

On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 8:16:45 AM UTC-4 JohnS wrote:

> Very nice build Matthew,
>
> I suppose that's why it was in the garage sale and the need for the 
> creative cable hanger. Looks like a BMX cross bar clamp around the seat 
> post (something I would do).
>
> JohnS
>
> On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 6:43:01 AM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
> PA wrote:
>
>> Really nice, thoughtful build Matthew, and I like the color on this bike. 
>> Classic Riv! Funky-cool rear brake cable hanger you got there! Curious 
>> about the area on the seat tube above the front derailer. Industrial 
>> accident? 
>>
>> Marty
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 14, 2023 at 3:06:47 AM UTC-4 Matthew Miller wrote:
>>
>>> Finished getting this Rosco Platypus together last month and took a few 
>>> photos on my ride today :) Picked up the frame, bars, and crank at the 
>>> Rivendell garage sale.
>>>
>>> Matthew Miller
>>> Long Beach, CA/USA
>>>
>>> [image: R0009714-Edit.jpeg]
>>> [image: R0009790 Large.jpeg][image: R0009796 Large.jpeg][image: 
>>> R0009772 Large.jpeg]
>>>
>>> 15 years on this Brooks so far.
>>> [image: R0009732 Large.jpeg]
>>>
>>> Used an old Dura-Ace front derailleur w/braze-on clamp.
>>> [image: R0009729 Large.jpeg]
>>>
>>> Fancy brass valve caps.
>>> [image: R0009802 Large.jpeg]
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Need help sizing for the upcoming Appaloosa

[DavidP]

Hoch's question about intended bars gets to the crux of choosing a frame 
size, I think - you want a larger roomier frame for swept back bars and 
less reach for drop bars though by changing stem length you can likely get 
both bars to work on either.

I have the same PBH as you and am comfortable on drop bar bikes with 58cm 
ETT. By comparison the ETT on my 60cm Platy seems astronomical, and yet I 
run a 120mm stem along with swept back bars and have a fairly upright 
position (~75deg back angle) when back on the grips.

With regards to your concern about reach - I may be missing something but 
the extra 2cm reach also means the BB moves back along with the seat tube 
(since reach is measured from BB forward) so the saddle / knee / pedal 
alignment isn't impacted? What would impact the saddle to BB alignment is a 
difference in seat tube angle.

Have you compared the bike geometries on Bike Insights?
https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=646ed3ba6c60a90021cb6aa5,,

On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 9:28:44 PM UTC-4 Hoch in ut wrote:

>
> Ted, are you setting up the Appaloosa with dropbars or flat bars? 
> On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 6:09:50 PM UTC-6 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Long rambling post ahead, but bear with me...
>>
>> Folks, I'm stressing about this way more than is probably necessary but 
>> I've been pining for an Appaloosa for years and I really want to make sure 
>> I won't be bummed out by a poor fit. So, here's the deal. I called Riv and 
>> spoke with Roman. After discussing my current bike and my size he suggested 
>> the 57cm. Now, I'm not doubting his knowledge on the subject but I can't 
>> wrap my head around the difference in measurements between what I'm 
>> currently riding and the 57cm Appaloosa and I'm hoping maybe to get some 
>> more opinions on the subject to either help me be comfortable with the idea 
>> of the 57 or realize that I need the 54...
>>
>> Current bike has the following measurements:
>> 58cm ETT, approx. 39cm reach, 57cm stack and 83cm standover
>>
>> The 57cm Appa has:
>> 62.5cm ETT, 41.3cm reach, 63.5cm stack and 85.2cm standover
>>
>> The 54cm Appa has:
>> 59.8cm ETT, 39.6cm reach, 60.3cm stack and 82.3cm standover
>>
>> My PBH is around 87cm so I have plenty of room for either size
>>
>> My current bike has a standard setback seatpost with a B17 saddle. I have 
>> a 100mm quill stem and Velo Orange, 50m randonneur bars and 170mm crank 
>> arms. In this configuration, the bike is almost perfect. 
>>
>> Now, I think I'd be quite happy with the additional standover and stack 
>> height; my current bike has around 160mm of steerer sticking up out of the 
>> head tube, so being able to drop that by 70mm would be aesthetically 
>> beneficial. Not to mention the extra top tube length combined with the more 
>> slack head tube of the Appa might prevent the toe overlap And since I'm 
>> currently running a 100mm stem, I can easily cut that back to accommodate 
>> the additional reach.
>>
>> My main concern with the 57cm Appa is the ETT length as it relates to my 
>> knee angle / knee-ankle line. I seem to have a fairly short femur as I'm 
>> always having to push my saddles fairly far forward to get my knee in line 
>> with, or slightly over my ankle to avoid pain in my knees. Being that my 
>> current bike has only about 1-2cm of additional room on the rails to slide 
>> the seat forward, and the 57cm Appa effectively places the seat tube 
>> another 2cm further back, I'm concerned I'm going to end up unable to 
>> achieve the necessary knee/ankle alignment.
>>
>> So, now that I have probably made myself sound sufficiently insane and 
>> obsessive, give me some opinions. Maybe there's a 0 setback 26.8 seatpost 
>> that could bail me out if it's a problem? Will the other differences in the 
>> frame geometry compensate for the differences in ways I'm not considering? 
>> Hit me with anything you think might be relevant :)
>>
>> -- 
>> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Easy on/off (with bolted clamps, like Ergons?) non-anatomical grips for bottom of drop bar hooks

[DavidP]

Red Shift offers drop bar control grips that are sized for road bars vs 
flat bars. You can get just the lower grips. I've seen these for sale on 
Amazon as well as Red Shift's website.

On Wednesday, June 7, 2023 at 2:58:43 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Speculating here. I may come to a situation where I will be swapping SA AM 
> and ASC wheels. The ASC takes a unique and proprietary trigger shifter, 
> thus a wheel swap would mean a shifter swap.
>
> I mount my trigger shifters toward the bottom of the curve on the 
> right-side drop bar hook, about 3" below the brake lever. I'd like to be 
> able to slide the different shifters on and off the bar. That means I won't 
> want bar tape (or Velox bar plugs) getting in the way.
>
> One solution might be to tape the bar from brake lever upward and use an 
> easy on/off grip for the bottom of the bar. IIRC, Craig Montgomery did this 
> to one or some of his touring bikes.
>
> So, question: Is there a non-anatomical (ie, non-"ergonomic") grip that 
> can more or less easily slide on and off the ends-of-hooks flats of a 25.4 
> mm bar? 
>
> Or would I be left with spreading and re-squeezing the clamp every time I 
> made the swap?
>
> I suppose I could even use Ergons; really, the bigger problem is the 
> 25.4mm diameter of the bar.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Leo Roadini, Mustachioed & More

[DavidP]

I recently built up a roadie Pescadero with Diacompe GC610s, 33mm tires and 
fenders. Using centerpulls on the Roadini would just require adding cable 
hangers at the headset and seat binder.

I'm at 50 PSI on Soma Supple Vitesse SL 33s - the sidewalls on these are 
comparable to Rene Herse Extra Lights. I might be able to go a bit lower 
but the sidewall deflection on the rear looks about right where it is and 
they are riding very nicely.

If switching from drops I'd be tempted to try an Albastache over a 
Mustache. If the stem feels short with a drop bar it's probably about right 
for a 'stache. I think these bars look best with non-aero levers, but 
Garth's inverse levers are intriguing too.

As for max'ing out tires, Piaw is running 38s on his 
Roadini: 
https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/77-YZzm-Edk/m/rbDytYzDAAAJ

On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 10:24:52 PM UTC-4 Chester wrote:

> That looks cool and your description totally makes sense. It's similar to 
> a setup that VO shows to illustrate its Porteur bar:
>
>
> https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2196/9775/files/Screen_Shot_2019-11-18_at_8.37.45_PM.png?v=1574127482
>
> This was the thumbies on inside curve of mustache setup I was referring to:
>
> https://static.flickr.com/24/43564690_1e3b848451.jpg?v=0
>
> Intriguing but beyond aesthetics I wonder about clearance for a handlebar 
> bag with another pair of cables in the mix in that area.
>
> I had thought about other bars and also using reverse levers on various 
> bars. I'm thinking Mustache in particular because I think it will be ideal 
> with the short stem I have now and so can avoid needing to buy another 
> stem. And since the forward position on the front of the curves is what I 
> think would be the preferred (and fastest) position, I feel like the 
> conventional placement of levers there makes most sense. 
>
> I'll try dropping PSI down to 40 or below before I try wider tires. I've 
> been more in the 55 to 60 range. I *am *concerned about wider being more 
> sluggish. I don't have much basis for comparison with wider tires, and only 
> with very different geometry. The Clem L with 45mm and various MTBs with 
> wider. 
>
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 5:44:26 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> I have a set of Albastache I wanted to try on either my Franklin bike or 
>> the Bombadil and I would set them up the same way I have then set up now 
>> with bar end brake levers and thumbshifters mounted just around the inside 
>> of the curve. If not there then I'd go DT shifters as my Sun Tour 
>> thumbshifters are all 22.2 so I'd have to but some Dia Compe ones likely, 
>> as overpriced as they are. There's also the DC stem mounted shifters that 
>> are adjustable in cable angle. 
>>
>> Especially on a road bike I find 33'ish the sweet spot max.  More doesn't 
>> add as much as it detracts in steering feel. I ride my 33mm (actual) 
>> Schwalbe Marathon Racers at no more than 40psi when I pump them and by the 
>> time I go to pump them again they're more like 35-37. That's on the road, I 
>> could go lower for worse surfaces.
>>
>> I find categorizing a bike only leads to the tail wagging the dog 
>> syndrome as you end up chasing some elusive image of what the term may or 
>> may not mean. All those categorical buzzwords have no Universal meaning 
>> other than their spelling of the words. It's just a bike, regardless of the 
>> parts on it !   
>>
>> Here's what I mean for the bar setup. My hands are never near the ends, 
>> always at the foremost straight with my thumbs inside the curve. Shifting 
>> is a breeze. The brake levers are easy to reach with a pinkie or two 
>> fingers. Reversed the levers are easier to activate than the the other way 
>> around. I always hated regular mtb levers as I thought they were designed 
>> backwards. 
>>
>> [image: Alba-Franklin56.jpg]
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS- Mermaid Platypus, 60cm

[DavidP]

Tom, sorry to see you are passing on the Platy but I can relate to the 
struggle of preciousness with this frame. Despite intentionally building 
mine to be at home on dirt I eventually added fenders, which knocked it 
down a notch on the rough stuff scale but definitely help keep things 
cleaner (and look great on this bike). Still it does well on all surfaces 
except rough trails - a case of being more capable than it looks.

At any rate this is a great deal on a fantastic bike; best with the sale.

On Monday, June 5, 2023 at 8:42:54 AM UTC-4 Tom Palmer wrote:

> Almost new save a couple of small paint chips. Fit me at 84.5 PBH but that 
> is the bottom of the range per Rivendell. Albatross bars, Technomic stem, 
> nice PDW lock on grips with 10 speed bar end shifter in friction mode and 
> shifts very well with new chain and Deore derailler. Nice Thompson 
> seatpost, shiny VO crankset 46/30 with no front derailler- I stick shifted 
> the 1 time I needed the 30- ran in 46 most of the time. Schwalbe G-ones 
> 700x50cm. Wheels are unbranded fairly wide silver hubs and rims and have a 
> freewheel- 8 speed is on now, but up to 10 speed available online. Brakes 
> are shiny Tektro V brakes and avid levers. Seat and pedals are just place 
> holders for your preferred ones. The bike rides very well on pavement and 
> dirt. I ride dirt almost always now and even with fenders, this pretty girl 
> was getting too dirty for me. I never though I would have bike that is too 
> precious, but I do. $2100 plus actual shipping with insurance. I will box 
> and ship, but work and home is very busy- it may take several days to get 
> it ready to ship. I have shipped many bikes over the years and have access 
> to excellent packing materials so she will get to the new owner in good 
> stead. Also on Riv Buy Sell group with more pictures or text me for more- 
> 231-2 zero 6 five 3 zero 3 
>
> Tom Palmer 
> Twin Lake, MI
>

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[RBW] Re: Let’s say I made my Clem into a “gravel bike”

[DavidP]

Most of my favorite rides tend to mix pavement, gravel, and trails (where I 
am we have lots of great country roads and trails of various difficulty but 
not many long stretches of gravel). My primary "gravel" bikes are a Soma 
Wolverine and my Platypus. (In reality, most of my bikes end up being used 
on multi-surface rides and are thus "gravel" bikes.) The Wolverine has 
650x48s with VO Wavy fenders, the Platypus has 700x50s with VO Fluted 
fenders.

Gravel King SKs are pretty versatile and Rene Herse knobbies are great too. 
Slick (file tread) tires like the Gravel King slick or RH non-knobbies are 
also fine on gravel. 
If you think you might also ride your Clem on light trails then some kind 
of knobs up front can help if you encounter some mud. My Wolverine has a 
slick (Pari-moto) rear with RH knobby front (the knobby front makes a 
difference on muddy corners), while the Platy has Gravel King SKs front and 
back (enough traction for light mud) - both are fine for the types of 
trails I take them on.

Tubeless or not depends on how often you tend to get flats (some locations 
are worse than others) and if you ride the bike enough to keep up with the 
maintenance. The Wolverine is tubeless in the rear (where I tend to get 
more flats), the Platypus is tubed on Cliffhangers (mostly because I'm 
getting more reluctant to add to my tubeless maintenance burden).

If you find yourself riding into a strong wind, the flats of that Bosco can 
provide a more aerodynamic position.
On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 4:43:09 PM UTC-4 cjus...@gmail.com wrote:

> I used to ride the Almanzo 100 annually and introduced many people to 
> gravel over the past decade or so.
>
> The Clem should be a great bike so long as you are committed to being 
> upright.  For big rides drops are nice to get down and out of the wind, but 
> not a need just to enjoy being on roads less travelled.  Long wheelbase and 
> stability of the Clem is great.
>
> I have not ridden gravel much with fenders but based on your tires 
> comments, the fender size seems suitable.
>
> I like small knobs and fast tires.  Rene Herse or Schwalbe Racing Ralphs 
> as examples of what I am running etc.
>
> If you are new to gravel or off road and 42 is not feeling confident, 48 
> seems like a great spot for you and still in your fender range.
>
> I still ride tubes for road and gravel.  I only ride tubeless for mountain 
> biking.  No wrong answer really IMHO.
>
> Enjoy the ride and shiny side up...
>
> On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 3:15:22 PM UTC-5 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> I love pavement. But I’ve been on two gravel rides in the last month and 
>> I rode a Platy either time and it wasn’t my favorite for that bike. But, I 
>> have my old 2019 52 cm Clem L, and it doesn’t have a dedicated purpose 
>> right now and shouldn’t that be the bike for rough and tough stuff like 
>> gravel? Also, my Platys are prisses. 
>>
>> BUT. I’m not good at gravel. I have no idea what the kids are doing these 
>> days. I have questions, and you have answers.
>>
>> 1. Can I keep my VO wavy fenders on a gravel bike? Here’s what I have, 
>> and they say up to 50 mm tire will fit:[image: IMG_5029.jpeg]
>> 2. Slick or knobby? I can’t even get a straight answer on this. Which is 
>> better? If it matters about the rider, this will be for a rider with a 
>> healthy fear of crashing.
>>
>> 3. How wide? I have 42s on my bikes now and I don’t feel like they are 
>> wide enough. 
>>
>> 4. Tubeless or no? These wheels are tubeless-compatible but I put a tube 
>> in them because I wasn’t riding enough to keep the sealant circulating. But 
>> that can be changed right quick.
>>
>> Here is my Clem in its current configuration, and yes, I know the 
>> Backabikes gotta go. 
>>
>> [image: IMG_1812.jpeg]
>> Thanks for your help!
>> Leah 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sarah’s Primrose Platypus

[DavidP]

Thanks for sharing the story and photos of Sarah's bike with us, Leah!

On Saturday, June 3, 2023 at 10:30:18 AM UTC-4 Melanie wrote:

> That bike's a beauty. So cheerful!
> On Friday, June 2, 2023 at 10:57:31 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> If you saw Riv’s IG today, you will have seen a RivSister named Sarah 
>> holding her custom yellow Platy aloft, PlatyPosing, as we RivSisters like 
>> to say.
>>
>> Sarah isn’t wild about learning to post to this platform, and since we 
>> talk on the DMs all day (stolen moments, as we’re both nurses and mothers) 
>> about our Platys, she figured I’d know enough to post about her new bike on 
>> her behalf. 
>>
>> And because I only know how to embed photos in the text after the initial 
>> post, I’m going to continue this in the next one. Be right back…
>>
>> Leah 
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sharing your winter ride photos northern hemisphere Spring 2023

[DavidP]

Steve - Thanks, yes VO Fluted 63mm fenders and 700x50 Gravel Kings. There's 
a detailed post about the fender setup in this 
thread: 
https://groups.google.com/g/rbw-owners-bunch/c/TZyZuR9pWhc/m/i0wRKPqXBQAJ

I've really enjoyed this setup - it's a fantastic all-rounder and does 
great on easy trails while being zippy on pavement. For something more 
trail oriented or if you wanted fenders and larger (or knobbier) tires then 
a Suzy (or the lugged replacement) or a Clem would be a better fit.

On Monday, May 29, 2023 at 10:01:25 PM UTC-4 steve...@gmail.com wrote:

> David - Sweet looking Platy, I dig your build -  It wears those fenders 
> well.
>
>  I've been daydreaming about my next bike and am gravitating toward a 
> Platy, or possibly a Suzy/Wolbis.  If you don't mind a few questions;  
> - I'm guessing VO Fluted 63mm fenders?  
> - How wide are those Gravel Kings,  and are they 650b or 700c? 
> Inquiring minds want to know.
> Thanks!!!
> On Monday, May 29, 2023 at 9:16:20 PM UTC-4 DavidP wrote:
>
>> Golden hour trails on the Platypus.
>>
>> [image: PXL_20230529_232610460_fern-trail-1350.jpg]
>>
>> [image: PXL_20230529_233100432_trailside-sun-1080.jpg]
>>
>> -Dave (near Boston, where it's starting to look a lot like summer)
>>
>> On Sunday, May 28, 2023 at 3:46:00 PM UTC-4 RichS wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Ted. The VO drillium looks perfect with the Heron frame.
>>>
>>> Regards,
>>> - Rich
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 3:38 PM Ted Durant  wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Sunday, May 28, 2023 at 2:35:27 PM UTC-5 RichS wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Ted, what is the gearing on the front of your Heron?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 48/34 Velo-Orange Drillium
>>>> Great road bike setup. The drop from the 48 to the 34 is on the verge 
>>>> of being too big, but it's nice to have the 34t small ring.
>>>>
>>>> Ted Durant
>>>> Milwaukee, WI USA
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>>
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>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/62e53a11-9d11-452e-9c53-f162f52e10e7n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/62e53a11-9d11-452e-9c53-f162f52e10e7n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Lightweight chi-chi saddlebag of about 9 liters / 61 ci

[DavidP]

Hi Patrick - the Swift Catalyst (7.5l) or Zeitgeist (12l) come to mind. I 
have a Catalyst and a Barley on different bikes - they are close in size 
but the Catalyst doesn't have side pockets.

On Monday, May 22, 2023 at 5:03:42 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Does anyone make a lightweight (nylon and plastic instead of canvas and 
> leather and metal) transverse saddlebag about the size of the Junior or 
> Barley (would prefer no side pockets) that also looks good? I'd prefer a 
> transverse style but might consider a bikepacking style if it's easy to get 
> to the contents.
>
> I've been attaching a Junior to the gofast at the start of the cold season 
> and, now that it's time to go back to the bike-kit seat wedge I think I'll 
> miss the volume. But I'd like something more sleek in all the various 
> meanings of this term.
>
> A vanity bag for a vanity bike, sure, but why not?
>
> --
>
> In other news, just installed a NOS silver 3-speed quadrant shifter (tt 
> mount) meant for AW type gears to replace the NOS 2-speed TF shifter for 
> shifting the TC hub (get that?). The TC had its original driver swapped out 
> for an AW driver, and the AW driver means that the hub now requires 
> considerably more cable pull to shift securely to Low. The new shifter 
> provides that by using the Low/first gear shift position instead of the 
> Middle/second gear shift position to hold the clutch securely in place for 
> low 86.54%) gear. 
>
> But this nice 3 speed shifter will also shift the 2 speed TF: I'll just 
> use the High/3rd gear and Middle/2nd gear positions. And I've finagled the 
> 25.4 mm clamps for the shifter and roller so that they go easily on and off 
> the 28.6 mm tt and dt (roller) so that I can easily switch between TC and 
> TF wheels and to the original Phil/Dingle wheel.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wanting to try an AHH 47.5 or 51 in Boston

[DavidP]

*"I swapped to albatross bars and changed the 80mm reach stem for a 135mm 
(124 w/ the upward angle) with the hopes of being able to use both a 
semi-upright and my preferred stretched out position. That's been working 
surprisingly well."*

Stephanie - the above sentence is all I needed to read to be confident in 
your ability to select the best size frame and then set it up to work well 
for you. The detail about the stem reach changing with the rise angle and 
your experience with setting up albatross bars for multiple back angles 
speak volumes.

Personally, whenever I've looked at the recent Riv geo charts (the ones 
drawn on cardboard) and wondered about stretching up a frame size on a 
diamond frame, I've found the standover height measurements seem to back up 
Riv's minimum PBH recommendations pretty closely. That's another reason I 
love my 60cm Platypus - I'd not be able to get the same roomy TT length on 
a diamond framed Appaloosa or Atlantis.

For the AHH, your 80.6 PBH puts you in range for a 51cm with 40mm tires, 
while Roberta is a centimeter shy of the recommended minimum PBH on her 
54.5cm (which makes Roberta's description of her standover clearance very 
helpful!).

-Dave (not far from Boston but with larger bikes)

On Saturday, May 20, 2023 at 1:10:27 PM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:

> Your responses are all so helpful! Roberta, especially, it's good to know 
> that the Platy wheelbase likely won't work for Amtrak and city bus bike 
> racks--I'm car free.
>
> I finally got some paint sticks to take a more accurate PBH measurement. 
> I'm 5' 5" and have an 80.6cm PBH. I'd like to be able to run either drop 
> bars or swept back bars. It looks like the 51 oughta work with different 
> stems. Barwise, I've got an albatross and an RM3 dirt drop. 
>
> My current bike is a 42. That's what was available at the time and I 
> needed a bike. I've made it work. I installed a 350mm seat post because I 
> was over the max height of the OEM post. The flat bars felt uncomfortably 
> close no matter where I put them with the bike's 85mm reach stem. I swapped 
> to albatross bars and changed the 80mm reach stem for a 135mm (124 w/ the 
> upward angle) with the hopes of being able to use both a semi-upright and 
> my preferred stretched out position. That's been working surprisingly well. 
>
> Current bike came with 700x38 and the geometry is (* indicates a rough 
> measurement from me because established geometry numbers were not 
> available):
> Stack: 53*
> Reach: 42*
> TT Length: 55.3
> HT Angle: 73*
> ST Angle: 73
> BB Drop: 6
> Front center: 61.2
> Chainstay length: 45
> Wheelbase: 105.5
>
> Idk why I added all of that. But now I've typed it all out and it's 
> staying. Here's to hoping I can get an AHH in the relatively near future! 
> Until then, I have a bike that's getting the job done.
>
> On Wednesday, May 17, 2023 at 4:57:12 AM UTC-4 Roberta wrote:
>
>> Hi, Stephanie. 
>>
>> I have both and love both, set up similarly, but like the Homer ride a 
>> bit more. 2019 Homer (last gen, 54.5cm) and 2021 Platy (first gen, 55cm). 
>> Wheelbase is 43” for Homer and 47” for Platy, which is too long for city 
>> bus bike rack (I’ll post pics later) and Amtrak roll on service. If you’re 
>>  planning to use either on bus rack, I suggest getting someone to measure 
>> wheelbase for fit. 
>>
>> My pbh is 83cm and I can straddle the Homer if I’m wearing sneakers, 
>> which is my standard riding shoe. But I do worry when I jump off quickly. 
>> I’ve been lucky enough to have ridden many Riv models and think, for me, 
>> bigger is better, when I “can” fit either size. 
>>
>> Things to consider for sizing when you straddle sizes: handlebar type, 
>> reach, tire size (bigger tires raise bike), thickness of riding shoe soles, 
>> head tube height. 
>>
>> Trying them out is best, especially that 51cm to rule out “too big.”  
>>
>> Roberta 
>> Philadelphia 
>> On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 10:11:06 AM UTC-4 Stephanie A. wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everyone! As I continue (spending probably way too much money and 
>>> time) altering my pandemic bike (which looks splendid but is probably a 
>>> size too small and, gasp, aluminum), I've been scoping out which Riv I 
>>> might buy in the future. I'm between an AHH and a Platy, heavily leaning 
>>> toward the AHH to have a zippier feeling bike and a diamond frame. As much 
>>> as I love seeing people touring and bike packing, I'm not sure that I'll 
>>> ever do more than commute, lug sometimes heavy CSA shares or work stuff, 
>>> and ride on pavement or packed dirt. The AHH seems to give me the 
>>> flexibility to go at least a little beyond that if I want to.
>>>
>>> What I'm most unsure of is sizing. My PBH is right on the line at around 
>>> 80cm. I want to avoid buying an expensive non-returnable new or used bike 
>>> and feeling like I should have gotten a different size--or different model.
>>>
>>> To that end, does anyone in the Boston area have an AHH in 47.5 or 51 
>>> that 

[RBW] Re: Getting in over my head

[DavidP]

Leah, I'm impressed by how you have found ways to make the Platypus work on 
fast group rides - even if it is a bit more work. Your observation about 
momentum is apt and the way you've adjusted to maintain it is great.

Julian's point about the riding position is valid and your Billie bars 
allow for a range of back angles by gripping the bar at different points so 
you don't need to be an upright sail.  If you are not currently using 
multiple hand positions on your bars that's a good place to start.  As 
you've seen, there's a point on downhills where staying upright and 
pedaling is slower than tucking in and coasting. 

I have roadish bikes with Albatross bars and find griping the bar ahead of 
the brake lever to be similar to riding on the hoods of a drop bar, while 
gripping further into the bends/hooks and bending my elbows a bit more gets 
me to a position similar to riding in the drops. Like Laing said you can 
also try narrowing your grip even more toward the stem and bending even 
lower for an actual aero tuck. You'll need to be cautious about how close 
you are to other riders as your hands will be away from the brakes, but 
this is no different from an aero tuck on a drop bar (where the hands are 
moved in close to the stem).

It's also very easy to adjust your stem height to try a slightly lower bar 
position, but I would suggest becoming comfortable using the full range of 
your handlebar positions to be worthwhile in any case.

As to the difference between the Platypus and a lighter road bike - with 
riding position accounted for above, it's mostly in acceleration. You 
wouldn't need to worry as much about momentum because it'd be easier to get 
back up to speed; but in any case momentum is a good thing and saves you 
work.

-Dave

On Tuesday, May 16, 2023 at 8:37:20 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> The answer is yes, but not recently. The upcoming North Carolina Riv Ride 
> will be a challenge - no hills to practice on in south Florida.
>
> Note that you can still do an aero tuck even on a flat bar Platypus - its 
> is kind of awkward, your hands are sort of beside your shoulders, or you 
> can put your hands near the stem under your chest, but it beats pedaling 
> downhill. You might have to put your water bottle in a frame mounted cage 
> though.
>
> You don't need a Roadini - a naked drop bar platypus would work just fine. 
> Although a sparkly raspberry Rodeo...
>
> You can never have too many Rivendells.
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, May 15, 2023 at 9:13:53 PM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
>> I just want to talk bikes. I don’t have anything to post FS or WTB…I just 
>> want to tell Riv people this dumb story that happened this morning. You can 
>> laugh or you can roll your eyes, or you can chime in with your own dumb 
>> story of getting in over your own dumb heads.
>>
>> This is my second season of club riding. I was new to it last year, and 
>> now that our weather is finally cooperating, I’m back.
>>
>> Last week, our bike club started a new ride. It would be on Monday 
>> mornings and only 5 miles from my house. The pace was to be 
>> “conversational” which I took to mean ‘riding at a pace you can still have 
>> a conversation at.’ (I now know that could not be what it meant.) The route 
>> would be new. The details were fuzzy - word was, the ride leader would make 
>> decisions about pace and miles once people arrived. Now, I know Platypuses 
>> are not going to fare well in the 18-21 mph crowd, but I knew that two 
>> women upwards of 70 did this ride last week. I figured I’d be fine.
>>
>> I was the second to arrive; the first being the president of our bike 
>> club. He was pulling his gravel bike out of his truck. He’s a roadie and he 
>> leads the 17-18 mph groups. Hmmm.  We’re friendly; I’m glad to know one 
>> person on the ride, but if he is here, how fast are we going? Two more 
>> people arrive; both men, roadies, and they pull jet-black, lethal-looking, 
>> feather-light carbon bikes from their vehicles. They are strangers to me.
>>
>> Ok, well, it’s going to be fine. Who cares if you’re the only woman. So 
>> what if you’re wearing your pink pants. Clutching the wide, sweepy bars of 
>> your sparkly pink Platypus. Their eyes are hidden behind their Oakleys, and 
>> I imagine what they are thinking - “She cannot be serious.” 
>>
>> Behind my Oakleys, I am thinking, “I cannot be serious.” 
>>
>> The three of them begin to discuss the route and the pace. The ride 
>> leader says, “The route is hilly. Let’s keep a 17 mph pace in the flats.” 
>> As soon as I hear that the route is hilly, I want OUT. I have always kept 
>> up in my club rides, but hills are the one thing that the Platypus does not 
>> do well. Oh, a Platypus can climb, but don’t ask it to do it at high 
>> speeds. I use momentum to get me uphill. To compensate, I always shoot 
>> ahead of the group, but I slow on the incline and those carbon bikes are 
>> gaining on me near the top. About the time 

Re: [RBW] Re: Hobson Zingo adjustable lockring wrench for **$7.00**??

[DavidP]

These quick link pliers 
<https://www.rivbike.com/products/tool-hobson-zingo-master-link-chain-pliers?_pos=2&_sid=b3a11fc39&_ss=r>
 
are a good deal too.

On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 9:01:50 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Man! $7, from Rivendell! I don't mind paying Rivendell prices for top 
> quality merchandise, but Rivendell is not a discount store and $7 is a 
> price I'd find low at Target. Must put together a shopping list for 
> Rivendell.
>
> On Fri, May 5, 2023 at 6:57 PM DavidP  wrote:
>
>> Yep - I ordered one from Soma 
>> <https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/802004-hobson-zingo-adjustable-lockring-wrench-5525?page=2=993#attr=>
>>  
>> for a similar price.
>>
>> -Dave
>> On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 8:53:48 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I thought, "Typo!" but the copy gives an even lower price: $6 and talks 
>>> of inferior substitutes 4 and 12 times more.
>>>
>>> I don't need one since I have all sorts of cup 'n' cone tools including 
>>> the very nice VAR lockring pliers, but I'm tempted to buy one just because 
>>> it costs $7. Or $6. 
>>>
>>> But I'm afraid if I order I'll find that they missed a decimal point.
>>>
>>> Can anyone confirm or correct?
>>>
>>> *Hobson-Zingo Adjustable Lock Ring Wrench*
>>>
>>> Home <https://www.rivbike.com/>/ Tools 
>>> <https://www.rivbike.com/collections/tools>/ *Hobson-Zingo Adjustable 
>>> Lock Ring Wrench*
>>>
>>>
>>> Regular price $7.00 USD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/2bd9ff0d-3584-42ef-9bb7-5032210578f9n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hobson Zingo adjustable lockring wrench for **$7.00**??

[DavidP]

Yep - I ordered one from Soma 

 
for a similar price.

-Dave
On Friday, May 5, 2023 at 8:53:48 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I thought, "Typo!" but the copy gives an even lower price: $6 and talks of 
> inferior substitutes 4 and 12 times more.
>
> I don't need one since I have all sorts of cup 'n' cone tools including 
> the very nice VAR lockring pliers, but I'm tempted to buy one just because 
> it costs $7. Or $6. 
>
> But I'm afraid if I order I'll find that they missed a decimal point.
>
> Can anyone confirm or correct?
>
> *Hobson-Zingo Adjustable Lock Ring Wrench*
>
> Home / Tools 
> / *Hobson-Zingo Adjustable 
> Lock Ring Wrench*
>
>
> Regular price $7.00 USD
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike route mapping & guidance app for iPhone

[DavidP]

Another RideWithGPS user - it has been my go to for route creation (and 
ride/mileage tracking) for a long time and it has continued to improve in 
its ease of use. I usually export routes and load them onto a Garmin GPS or 
into my phone for use with various apps.

-Dave

On Monday, May 1, 2023 at 2:28:25 PM UTC-4 Patch T wrote:

> Another vote for RideWithGPS + iPhone and/or computer (mine, a Wahoo 
> Element).
>
> Patch, still always lost in, and around, NYC
> On Monday, May 1, 2023 at 2:12:40 PM UTC-4 jacob...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Ridewithgps lets you build routes on your pc and navigate them through 
>> the iPhone app. It does audible directions as well. Normally I build the 
>> route on my computer and then load the ride on my bike computer (Hammerhead 
>> Karoo or Wahoo Element). I have just used the iPhone app at times. Works 
>> great. Komoot should do the job too but I’m not as familiar with it. 
>>
>> Cheers, 
>>
>> Jacob
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On May 1, 2023, at 1:56 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> Thanks to the car-centric development of this our Southwestern city we 
>> often have destinations only a few miles away that you can't ride to on 
>> direct, paved routes. OTOH, thanks to our extensive dirt trails, there are 
>> often off-road workarounds that, if they add 50% or more to the total 
>> distance are pleasant to ride -- and after all, one rides for pleasure; or 
>> I hope one does.
>>
>> I have to take a computer in to a shop tomorrow. By 6-lane boulevard and 
>> resulting horrible intersections it's 3.3 miles, but per Google maps there 
>> is apparently a combined residential street-cum-dirt trail route that can 
>> get me there.
>>
>> The trouble is that it's complicated enough that I have a hard time 
>> following it on my 42" professional screen. Also, I am rather "spatially 
>> dyslexic:" I don't easily comprehend spatial directions, relations, and 
>> distances -- generally I painstakingly work out complicated routes on a 
>> verbal instruction sheet.
>>
>> I cannot use Google Maps or on a 2" iPhone screen.
>>
>> But: is there some miracle phone app that will, say, let you pick out 
>> such a route on a big screen and transfer it to a phone where the app will 
>> walk you through the turns and distances?
>>
>> Otherwise, I'll stick to writing out route marker lists.
>>
>> Aside: When I drive with my daughter, she gauged routes using Siri to 
>> operate a direction app that would nag you to turn in "100 yards" or what 
>> have you. But (1) I will *not* talk to a ddogamned machine, and (2) the 
>> routes in question involve paths that I expect are not inside Google or 
>> Apple systems.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who from time to time revisits Robin Williams very funny 
>> Siri putdown on Ellen DeGeneres.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Deer-bike collision

[DavidP]

Wow - close call! Glad to hear you didn't go down! (And I can't help but 
wonder if something can't be said for the stability of the Roadini.)

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 5:17:46 PM UTC-4 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm pretty sure the deer that hit me weighs less than a car. Hopefully I 
> won't be a disaster tomorrow.
>
> On Sun, Apr 30, 2023, 13:45 Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> I'm glad your wheels stayed down and hope that you are not too sore in a 
>> day or two. I was knocked over by a right-turning car at slow speed over 15 
>> years ago and after getting a few lacerations stitched up felt pretty good, 
>> and thought, "Well, I can ride in tomorrow." Nope, I spent a week stiff and 
>> sore. But you didn't hit the ground so perhaps you'll fare better.
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 30, 2023 at 2:25 PM Piaw Na  wrote:
>>
>>> I think I used up all my luck for the next few years: 
>>> https://www.strava.com/activities/8984851311. Coming down Prospect road 
>>> on my Roadini, a deer tried to cross the road as I came around the corner. 
>>> He swerved, I swerved, but we collided, and bounced. I saw my vision go up 
>>> and down and thought it was all over. Fortunately, there was no traffic on 
>>> the road and I didn't crash. The bike seems undamaged as it was my arms and 
>>> legs that made contact. I kept riding home and the deer ran off into the 
>>> bushes by the side of the road. I'm going to be so sore tomorrow. The whole 
>>> thing was over in 2 seconds. I remember Terry Shaw once telling me about 
>>> his days of racing in the velodrome where sprints would physically muscle 
>>> each other while riding. I definitely felt muscled by something that 
>>> outweighed me significantly!
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>> -- 
>>
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Re: [RBW] Double 1x

[DavidP]

You can also do double 1x with two chainrings and skip the front derailleur 
and shifter - manually shift the front when desired (usually while stopped 
but down shifts can be done while riding easily enough using your foot to 
nudge the chain).

-Dave

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:46:46 AM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> I was just writing elsewhere that (so far) my 2 x 7 drivetrain I installed 
> on my Gus is like having two 1x7 drivetrain’s. That’s the magic of the 
> Silver wide/low crank with 38/24 rings. On road/gravel rides I’ve yet to 
> use the 24 & I’ve not spun out in the top end. On local quite hilly 
> singletrack I just put it on the 24 & leave it there.:)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 30, 2023, at 1:04 AM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> I had a nice 1x and wanted slightly lower gears for some crazy hills 
> around here, but didn't want to lose the already relatively low top end so 
> mashed some parts together and this is the result. 
>
>
> Starting point: SRAM Rival 1 (with clutch) rear derailer, I believe the 
> largest cog this is supposed to handle is 42t. I added a Garbaruk cage and 
> pulleys and it shifts a SunRace 11-50 11-spd cassette with a SRAM Apex 
> trigger shifter. The front is a Sugino XD crank with 34t chainring. 
>
> Ok what happens if I want double rings? The manufacturer stuff says I 
> can't use a 1x derailer (I don't know why) so I thought I would cheat a 
> little and make it kind of two 1x's by adding a 30t inner ring, Shimano 
> Deore (DynaSys 10-spd double) FD and a Silver2 thumbshifter on the stem. It 
> works! 
>
> Ok it doesn't work completely fabulously yet, the downshift to the small 
> ring doesn't always take and I still have some fiddling to do but overall 
> the bike works well for me using all of the gears in the 30t plus grabbing 
> the top 2 or 3 in the 34t on occasion, and sometimes just staying in the 
> 34t like before. It's not a massive increase in gear range, I think of it 
> as an expanded 1x. 
>
> Does it make sense? I don't know, maybe this can be duplicated by ye old 
> triple drivetrains with 11-36 cassettes but I don't like triples. I like 
> this! 
>
> Joe "tried to ditch front derailers, ended up with a front derailer again" 
> Bernard
>
> 
> 
>
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>  
> 
> .
> 
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Heck, even my Monocog is lighter than your Platypus. [Monocog with Specialized Hover bar]

[DavidP]

Traditionally I think that's been the most common use of the term "granny 
gear" in the context of bicycle gearing, though it's likely due to the fact 
that for a long time the only way to get gearing low enough for your 
grandmother to push was to put a small chainring up front. With modern 
cassettes and derailleurs you can get a granny gear with a large rear cog 
on a 1x setup so I think Patrick's use makes sense.

-Dave

On Friday, April 28, 2023 at 8:48:05 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> 52 tooth granny cog on the freewheel, I assume.
> I use the term granny for the small chainwheel on the crank, but others 
> may not.
>
> Laing
>
> On Friday, April 28, 2023 at 12:32:01 AM UTC-4 Philip Williamson wrote:
>
>> 52 tooth granny cog? 
>>
>> Philip 
>> SR, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, April 27, 2023 at 6:08:22 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> OTOH: this is puzzling: I see so many Rivendells on this list with very, 
>>> very high bars, but with 52 tooth granny cogs; IOW gearing designed for 
>>> low-torque fast-cadence twiddling. I don't get it. When I spin I move 
>>> forward and down; when I torque I shove back and sit up. What gives? 
>>> Someone explain.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 27, 2023 at 6:18 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>>
 ... And one more interesting thing: A more forward and lower position 
 makes you re-think your saddle position. With the M/A I had the saddle -- 
 first edition Flite -- slammed all the way back on the rails and seapost 
 raised for full leg extension; I wanted to sit back and push forward. 
 Leaning and reaching more forward, I wanted to move the saddle forward and 
 down; which I did, ~7 mm forward and ~10 mm down. This felt better 
 particularly in the hooks, which with the slightly lower and closer saddle 
 are now much more comfortable. But the further-forward hoods position also 
 make standing and grunting, as through sand, feel more natural compared to 
 the closer and higher M/A. So perhaps I don't need a shorter or a higher 
 stem after all.

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Rivendell paint color repetition: Your thoughts

[DavidP]

I guess I've viewed them more as Rivendell colors than as being associated 
with a specific frame - well, except for Atlantis green.

For as long as I've followed Rivendell, at some points I lapsed on being 
aware of exactly what the differences in the various models were (and still 
don't have as complete a historical picture as many here - though Eric's 
history threads help). That said the colors have been part of what make 
them identifiable as Riv bikes to me. Also the impression that "fancier" 
bikes get "fancier" (more sophisticated?) colors.

-Dave

On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 9:23:26 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Jason and Junes — I totally agree about the inspired color choices and the 
> amount of time they put into finding good colors. 
>
> Jason — I agree about retiring colors every few years. 
>
> Junes — You raise some good points and you actually get at something I've 
> had a hard time putting my finger on: brand confusion. Like you, I made 
> strong color and frame associations. Mermaid platypus, got it! That bike 
> was brand new, everyone got crazy excited about it, color is locked in to 
> my brain. And now the color is on all sorts of bikes. Including my 
> Appaloosa :) 
>
> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 9:01:58 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>
>> " an ocean of charcoal, slate, and black bikes"just  depressing. But 
>> maybe the right color for a beater you lock up downtown in the hopes that 
>> it'll still be there. Like I say, just depressing.
>>
>> Wasn't it Ford who said " you can have any color you want as long as it's 
>> black"?
>>
>> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 6:40:47 PM UTC-5 J J wrote:
>>
>>> In an ocean of charcoal, slate, and black bikes, I just appreciate the 
>>> wide range of colors Rivendell puts on their bikes. 
>>>
>>> However, I have what I think is a minority opinion: I’m about 75 percent 
>>> in favor of no more than two specific colors for specific models (**with 
>>> exceptions for custom paint jobs, which are at the buyer’s discretion, with 
>>> Riv’s final approval of course**). The *production* colors become part 
>>> of a particular model's “brand" or visual identity. This is important.
>>>
>>> For example, it’s hard to imagine Atlantis production models in any 
>>> color other than the Atlantis blue/green… even though there are Atlantises 
>>> painted in lovely one-off colors. It would be odd if any other production 
>>> model were painted in the Atlantis color. The Atlantis geometry has changed 
>>> tremendously over the years. You might even say that the Atlantis 
>>> green/blue *is itself* a huge part of the Atlantis brand because the color 
>>> has been a constant through the various Atlantis permutations.
>>>
>>> Another example: I like that Hunqs came in two color schemes: the early 
>>> runs were grey and kidney bean red, and the later runs were green. Now 
>>> Joe’s fantastic custom was inspired by the grey and red Hunq scheme. But 
>>> it’s a custom, a one-off, slightly different, and ultimately it was Joe’s 
>>> prerogative. He made a very tasteful choice. 
>>>
>>> I think the Platypus was the first model in mermaid (?). Anyway, when I 
>>> see mermaid I think Platypus, not Gus or anything else. I don’t get why any 
>>> model other than the Platypus should be in mermaid! It’s a strong brand 
>>> association. The lovely  sparkly raspberry of Leah’s Platypus, being a 
>>> unique one off, does not weaken the Platypus mermaid brand because 
>>> raspberry was not a production color.
>>>
>>> And as much as I like the lovely olive green as a color, the number of 
>>> models in this green suggests brand confusion and inconsistency. 
>>>
>>> I do think that variations of *similar* colors across model is fine. 
>>> They should be different enough not to confuse them, though.  
>>>
>>> Like I said, my opinion is probably in the small minority.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Apr 24, 2023, at 6:48 PM, Wyatt  wrote:
>>>
>>> Have to say whatever they're doing with the paint is right. Next Riv I 
>>> get will be 50% because I want a frame with that mermaid green.
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 5:29:55 PM UTC-5 Jason Fuller wrote:
>>>
 Wait, the Platys are coming in silver soon? Crap, I guess good thing I 
 just got my Charlie back or I'd be dropping a bunch of money for that. 

 I'm late to the conversation, but my read is that Grant & co spend a 
 lot more time on color selection than is business-smart to do so, because 
 they want it to be exactly right - so when they get one that passes a 
 vote, 
 they hang onto it. As for my opinion about it, I like how they do it 
 because if you love a certain color, you just have to be patient for it to 
 come to your preferred model - or, conversely, if you like a model but not 
 the available colors, you'll hopefully be accommodated on the next batch.  
 I do think that colors should be retired every few years for new ones 
 though! 

 On Monday, 24 April 2023 at 

Re: [RBW] Re: Lighter than your Platypus

[DavidP]

Who weighs a Platypus?

-Dave (whose 60cm frame/fork/headset weigh 10lbs)

On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 6:23:39 AM UTC-4 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:

> Well, I don’t see how this is possible since your Matthews isn’t even 
> raspberry.
>
> [image: image0.jpeg]
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 26, 2023, at 4:51 AM, Garth  wrote:
>
> As if any comparison is ever fair  . heeheehee .  The title of 
> your post is hilarious Patrick ;-)  
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Homer Hilsen: Braking performance

[DavidP]

Diacompe GC center pulls (nicer than their DC center pulls) and Paul Racers 
are also an option.

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 6:42:41 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:

> This was just discussed in the Charlie H Gallop proto thread. 
>
> Some people like those brakes, some people find them weak. I’m in the 
> latter group. I wouldn’t commit to such an expensive frame that is limited 
> to those brakes. My experience with long reach calipers is almost 
> universally bad, especially in the wet. 
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 26, 2023, Hoch in ut  wrote:
>
>> I’m window shopping for the next project and was interested in the Homer. 
>> Great looking frame. My only concern is the brakes. I live in a pretty 
>> mountainous area. Meaning plenty of long, fast descents. 
>>
>> Those of you with Homers, how have you liked or disliked the brakes? Do 
>> the 559’s give you adequate performance to descend with confidence? One 
>> thing I do like about caliper brakes are how easy they are to set up and 
>> adjust. 
>> Thanks for any input. 
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Sim Works Taco Pedals: Looks appealing

[DavidP]

I use 5-10 Freeriders on my MTBs with pedals that have screw type pins 
similar to those on the Vault pedals, and also have a few different types 
of pinned pedals on other types of bikes.

In my experience pins like those on the Taco pedals will work fine with 
five-tens, but will not be quite as locked in as the smaller diameter screw 
type pins on pedals like the Vault, which really dig into the 5/10s and 
require lifting your foot to reposition.

The Taco pedal pins split the difference between the above mentioned more 
aggressive pins and the even less aggressive star/torx shaped pins that are 
available on many (inexpensive) pedals marketed for more casual use.

I have pedals with the less aggressive star/torx pins on my Platypus and 
they work great with casual shoes (trail runners, vans type treads, etc.) 
without tearing them up (or me if I brush against them). I tried using my 
five-tens on these pedals and they weren't slippery but offered no 
advantage to casual shoes, so I keep the 5-10s for dedicated MTB use.

-Dave

On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 3:05:45 PM UTC-4 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> My favorite pedal ever is the Simworks Bubbly. I have them on my Clem & 
> they are really good for pavement & even light dirt/gravel. But, they just 
> are not “sticky” enough (for me) on my Gus on singletrack  - I need pins. I 
> built the Gus with leftover DMR Vault pedals. They are big enough and my 
> 5/10 shoes do not move. But the Taco just plain looks so good & is slightly 
> bigger than the vault. If I could be certain they will be as sticky as the 
> Vault’s I would be trying to score a set.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 24, 2023, at 12:52 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>
> There are so may great platform pedals out there right now that I am not 
> sure there is reason for another one but its nice looking. I prefer the 
> composite ones because of weight and the bundle of colors they come in. I 
> think the bear trap is the best looking one right now.
>
>
>
> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 11:31:22 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> More info here: https://sim-works.com/en/news/simworks-new-stuff-2023
>>
>> On Monday, April 24, 2023 at 11:30:41 AM UTC-4 Eric Marth wrote:
>>
>>> Sim Works have a new pedal coming out. It's called the Taco. Looks like 
>>> a Sylvan Gordito pedal with more grip. 
>>>
>>> Seems like the kind of pedal many of us here would enjoy. 
>>>
>>> [image: taco2.png]
>>>
>>> [image: taco.png]
>>>
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[RBW] Re: Rivendell paint color repetition: Your thoughts

[DavidP]

The HubbuHubbuH reminder newsletter 
 
had a schedule for 2023 bikes with colors - two models are listed as having 
a new color.

-Dave (who does not need a Lime-olive Roaduno)

On Saturday, April 22, 2023 at 5:55:42 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I generally like the colors, and like that they cross several models so 
> you don't have to pick a specific frame to get the color you want. BUT..two 
> of the best bike colors ever were on the Bridgestone RB-1. We need bright 
> red and yellow Rivs! 
>
> On Saturday, April 22, 2023 at 1:39:48 PM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hello friends — I've noticed that over the past few years Rivendell have 
>> been using some of the same paint colors on many frames through several 
>> production runs. If there's been a discussion of this practice, I've missed 
>> it. 
>>
>> I can't quite put my finger on it but something about the same paint 
>> appearing on frames over and over leaves me scratching my head. Perhaps 
>> there's a missed opportunity to pin a color to a model or to cycle in new 
>> colors with new batches of frames? 
>>
>> What do other members think? Do you appreciate the same colors appearing 
>> on different frames? Do you wish there was a wider variety of colors? Does 
>> it matter at all? 
>>
>> Some of these colors I like quite a lot, others I appreciate. There isn't 
>> one that I dislike. The Lime Olive is always striking when it appears on a 
>> new frame, love it on the Hillbornes and Clems. 
>>
>> The harvest gold, wow, looks killer on those Susies. Blew my mind on the 
>> Homers because they've always been a blue bike. 
>>
>> I do miss the mustard from the older Appaloosas and the dark bronze that 
>> appeared on some Clems. These two colors paired with some of the newer 
>> colors currently in use demonstrate, I think, that Riv has some of the best 
>> paint colors in the biz. Really lovely stuff. 
>>
>> Here's a far-from-complete list more or less off the top of my head of 
>> where current production colors have appeared:
>>
>> *Lime-olive*
>> Platypus
>> Susie
>> Hillborne
>> Clem
>>
>> *Mermaid*
>> Appaloosa 
>> Platypus
>> Roadini
>> Gus
>>
>> *Harvest/Dark Gold*
>> Hillborne
>> Homer
>> Susie 
>>
>> *Ana Purple*
>> Rosco Plat
>> Appaloosa (next batch in 2023?)
>> Road Uno or Gallop? (I can't remember but thought the purple was slated 
>> for one of these frames) 
>>
>> *RBW Orange*
>> Appaloosa
>> Roadini
>> Gus
>>
>> *RBW Blue*
>> Too many to list?
>> Appaloosa
>> Clem
>> Hillborne
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Tallux length for Albatross?

[DavidP]

Sounds good, Drew! Looking forward to seeing your Atlantis all built up!

-Dave

On Wednesday, April 19, 2023 at 2:31:34 AM UTC-4 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks Dave and Michael! 
>
> I ordered the 10cm Tallux, and I've got ESI grips in my parts stash. I'll 
> start there and see how it goes!
>
> On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 1:47:48 AM UTC-4 Michael Connors wrote:
>
>> I tried Albatross bars on my 53 Atlantis using a dirt drop stem and they 
>> were too close, so I changed to Wavie bars. The Albatross bars are now on 
>> my 1973 10 speed (having the same top tube length as the Atlantis) using a 
>> 10cm tallux stem. I found that my hands were often on the brake lever 
>> clamps, so I changed to longer ESI grips and moved the brake levers forward.
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Tallux length for Albatross?

[DavidP]

How's the top tube length on the bike compared to others you've had 
experience with? Are you looking to be in a similar position or more 
upright? Riv recommends starting with an 8-10cm stem 
, 
but it helps if you know the kind of reach you're looking for.

Even if you come up with an idea on your own, it wouldn't hurt to 
call/email Riv and ask for their recommendation for your 53cm Atlantis 
based on your height and PBH.

For an idea of relative sizing vs drop bars - I recently converted a drop 
bar bike to Albatross bars and moved to a 40mm longer stem. This is a 
sporty roadish bike and the grip position on the Albatross bars is more 
upright than I ever could be on the tops of the drop bar (but still not a 
very upright position) with the bends being about the same reach as the 
hoods were before.

A note on shifter placement - the bike mentioned above is shifterless and I 
enjoy being able to put my hands anywhere from the grips to up at the bends 
to vary the reach. If I were putting thumbies on these bars I'd put them up 
inside the bends so as not to spoil that. My Platypus has Toscos setup in a 
similar fashion.  That said, I don't mind moving my hands to shift. If you 
have no desire to compromise shifter access for a bit more hand position 
flexibility then ignore this.

-Dave

On Monday, April 17, 2023 at 11:54:36 AM UTC-4 drewfi...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey y'all,
>
> Currently building a 53cm Atlantis from the ground up and wanted an 
> opinion on stem length. I'm going to use albatross bars and was thinking of 
> using the bar mount silver shifter thumbies so I don't have the bar ends 
> coming back at me. 
>
> Any guidance on how long of a Tallux stem to use? 
>
> Thanks!
>

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[RBW] Re: "You need 7 bikes" article

[DavidP]

In the March blahg, Grant revisits the idea of preservation vs use and 
writes:

"For daily tasks like shopping, commuting, errands, and all-purpose 
exercise, ride your favorite bicycle. A the risk of sounding self-serving, 
I'd say--get more than one special bike. You probably do that, or want to 
do that anyway."

I think this thread is a testament to the fact that many of us have more 
than one special Bicycle.

-Dave
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 5:28:06 PM UTC-4 Slin wrote:

> Guy -
>
> Those are some great bikes, I wish I could help slim down the herd, but my 
> frame size is smaller. Is there a story for how you ended up with so many 
> 2022 bikes?
>
> S
>
> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 2:54:17 PM UTC-7 leva...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I have way too much overlap in my quiver:
>>
>> 2015 Soma San Marcos (Tiburon Blue) - 57cm
>> 2018 Atlantis  (650B) - 56cm
>> 2022 Crust Canti Romanceur (Pistachio) - 57cm
>> 2022 Sam Hillborne (HiHo Silver) - 57cm
>> 2004ish Rambouillet (Joe Bell Custom Brown) - 60cm
>> 2022 Wolbis/Susie (Dark Gold) - 56cm
>> 2021 Gus Boots (Mermaid) - 59cm
>> 2022 Roadini (RBW Orange) - 57cm
>> 2020 Platypus (Mermaid) - 60cm
>> 2022 Rosco Bubbe - (Purple) - 60cm
>>
>> I would really like to slim down the herd!  You interested in helping?
>>
>> Guy
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 3:03:48 PM UTC-6 Steven Seelig wrote:
>>
>>> Bikes in order of use:
>>>
>>>1. Brand new Platypus for City riding
>>>2. Spectrum titanium road bike (frame fabricated by Seven) 
>>>for clipped in rides and longer road tours
>>>3. Rambouillet for more spirited city rides.
>>>4. Sam outfitted as a gravel bike for country rides
>>>5. Xtracycle cargo bike with a large aftermarket Bafang 1,000 watt 
>>>motor for shopping.
>>>6. Brompton for train and plane travel and occasional last mile 
>>>rides if driving to a big car traffic event
>>>7. 1986 Look Bernard Hinault Reynolds 753 steel bike.  Same frame as 
>>>the ones he a Lemond rode in the tour when the badger would not let Greg 
>>>usurp his team leadership and claim the Yellow Jersey.  
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 3:30:19 PM UTC-4 Edwin W wrote:
>>>
>>> Bikes in order of use
>>>
>>>1. Joe Appa daily driver
>>>2. Raleigh sprite vintage fixed for variety in commute
>>>3. 90's GT avalanche for occasional MTB'ing
>>>4. Dahon boardwalk guest bike I will occasionally use
>>>5. Vintage Schwinn tandem for occasional fun ride. Kickback 2 speed
>>>
>>> Apparently I have too (two) few bikes!
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 7:45:16 AM UTC-5 Tom Palmer wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi all,
>>> I recall an article by Grant about the number of bike a person needs 
>>> with justification. I think it was 7.
>>>  Any idea which reader it was in?
>>> Thanks!
>>> Tom Palmer
>>> Twin Lake, MI
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus max tire with fenders?

[DavidP]

Spring time is for fenders and this weekend I put VO Fluted 700c 63mm 
fenders on my Platypus. These are the widest fenders I'd recommend for 
straightforward install - they fit without modification with some notes.

When trying to maximize tire clearance the fender line and installation 
becomes very important - finding (or making) the right spacers for each 
attachment point takes a lot of time. 

The rear fender as provided is crimped near the chainstay to provide 
clearance for the chain. I have a Gravel King SK 50mm on the rear and 
wanted more space between the tire and fender at this spot so flattened out 
the crimp a bit - not completely. I'd also note that I'm running a 7 speed 
cassette with several spacers behind it, so chain clearance at the fender 
is less of an issue than it might be with 9 speeds or higher.

The front wheel had a Fleecer Ridge 700x55 mounted. The limited vertical 
clearance between the tire and the top of the fork makes things very tight. 
The fender's fluted profile brings the widest part of the fender down below 
the fork lugs and because of that it barely avoids contact with the fork 
blades. I have the front fender attached at three points (stays, fork 
crown, and front rack) for stability due to the tight clearances.

My Gravel King SK 700x50 measures 50.8mm (2") on a Cliffhanger rim. My 
Fleecer Ridge 700x55 measures 52.8mm. There is a larger difference in 
diameter with the Fleecer Ridge measuring 10mm larger than the Gravel King.
  

Does it work in use? - almost. Under hard standing efforts, when shifting 
weight over the front wheel and putting force through the bars, I can 
induce a slight tire buzz on the fender due to wheel flex. Under most 
conditions there's no rubbing. Still, even though I've had a few short and 
enjoyable rides without issue, I can't recommend this combination. 

I've replaced the Fleecer Ridge with a Gravel King SK 50mm and there is now 
lots of clearance beneath the front fender.

So fitting 700x50s with the VO Fluted 63mm fenders is possible on the 
Platypus and that's what I'll be running. Still Riv's recommendation of 
48mm max with fenders is probably a better general guideline.

-Dave

On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 8:18:04 PM UTC-5 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> Admittedly, the flat 65's were probably one of the most pleasant to 
> install ive dealt with. Granted I have all the tools and bits and bobs. But 
> they just really "fit" no fuss. Hardware was great and intuitive. The Clem 
> has ample clearance. Only downside is the kickstand mount needs a long 
> spacer. Plus, I ended up putting electrical shrink tube where the fender 
> stays contacted the fender because of a little bit of rattle, which others 
> have also complained about. 
>
> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 4:56:16 PM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Very Nice Mackenzy! I was actually thinking of those fenders for my Clem, 
>> and possibly the Platypus. The SW  Honjo fender is a bit more work to 
>> install but definitely worth it in my opinion. 
>>
>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 4:36:16 PM UTC-8 Mackenzy Albright wrote:
>>
>>> I splurged and put Simworks Flat 65's on my Clem - They work really 
>>> really well to give a lot of clearance especially if you use something that 
>>> isn't a slick that might toss and occasional pebble. 
>>>
>>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 2:37:12 PM UTC-8 fra...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Great information, thank you! I just unboxed my wife’s frame a couple 
>>>> hours ago.  Frame saver sprayed and drying now. I’m very excited to build 
>>>> it up for her! She hasn’t decided on fenders or tire size yet. I did a 
>>>> quick test fit of a Fleecer Ridge that I have on a Cliffhanger and it was 
>>>> tight up front. Didn’t pay a lot of attention to above the tire, maybe 
>>>> with 
>>>> something like a flat Honjo fender? She really wants the Ultradynamico 
>>>> grey 
>>>> tires but 42mm ish or 2.2” are the options. We’ll see how it comes 
>>>> together 
>>>> when parts start coming in!
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 1:40:02 PM UTC-8 DavidP wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Rivendell says "up to 48mm fendered" and I've seen a few Platypus 
>>>>> builds with fendered Shikoro's. I have a 700x50 Gravel King on the back 
>>>>> of 
>>>>> my Platypus and it looks like there's room for a fender. Clearance 
>>>>> actually 
>>>>> looks tighter at the fork, both vertically to the crown and in width as 
>>>>> the 
>>>>> distance between the lugs at the crown is only 60mm.
>>>>>
>>>>> My front tire

[RBW] Re: "You need 7 bikes" article

[DavidP]

Nice find, Eric. 

I like that the number shifts to 9 to give some wiggle room - because that 
is that number I have that I can (kind of) justify. Then there are the 
bikes I have but don't need (but still get ridden). Then there are the 
unicycles (which are just for fun).

-Dave (who should probably make a goal of getting down to 7 bikes)

On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 8:53:28 PM UTC-4 Ian A wrote:

> The problem is, there is always justification for another bicycle, like 
> the relatively new bikepacking designs (Jones Bikes for example) which also 
> do a very good job of displacing conventional touring bikes. Or a foldable 
> Brompton, just because. Then there is sentimentality, like my beloved 
> Marinoni which  has taken and continues to take me on so many  touring 
> adventures, but which I would not be shopping for if looking today as I 
> want ever more tire clearance from a frame. Then there is the poor, abused 
> commuter which gets ridden so much and so often, it becomes an old friend 
> and thus impossible to give up. Then there is the lightweight randonneur 
> and the back up randonneur. The back rando doesn't seem to ever get ridden, 
> but what if something happened to the primary rando?  N+1 is real. N-1 is 
> pure fantasy.
>
> Willet: Ecuador has some made taxes on imports of most products, but Pasto 
> in Colombia is only 50 miles from the Ecuador border. You could very 
> gradually bring your bikes in one at a time!  
>
> IanA Alberta Canada
>
> On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 6:45:16 AM UTC-6 Tom Palmer wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> I recall an article by Grant about the number of bike a person needs with 
>> justification. I think it was 7.
>>  Any idea which reader it was in?
>> Thanks!
>> Tom Palmer
>> Twin Lake, MI
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Atlantis - first build

[DavidP]

Gautham,
Congrats on the Atlantis and a great build! With 2.1s and fenders it's 
ready for anything.

Tyler,
My only Rivendell is a Platypus, which Riv says 
 is "like an Appaloosa or 
Atlantis, but with a step through frame", and it's the longest (single 
seat) bike I own. My 60cm Platy is also sized up to a larger size than I 
could stand over on an Atlantis, so I'm taking the long wheelbase thing and 
running with it.

I might not call the Platypus "playful" in the same way I would some of my 
other bikes, but neither the functionality nor the fun factor are 
compromised by the bike's wheelbase.

I like to describe the ride as "cruisy zoomy" - it's easy going and zippy, 
but at the same time is plenty maneuverable. I've managed some surprisingly 
tight turns on single track, have been able to lift the front wheel over 
obstacles, and can lift the rear wheel off the ground without much more 
effort than my shorter bikes (not hopping, just weight shifting).

-Dave

On Wednesday, March 29, 2023 at 12:07:56 PM UTC-4 tylerj...@gmail.com wrote:

> Keep me posted on ride quality, I might be getting an Atlantis in my size 
> if the stars align. I have never ridden a long base bike before so I am 
> super curious how other feel about the updated geometry. My only fear is 
> getting a new Atlantis and it being very un-playful, like riding a 
> longboard, hard to maneuver but fast and comfy. I’m not an advanced rider 
> by any means, but I still love to have a bike that can pop the occasional 
> wheelie and pop over logs etc. 
>
> Tyler
>
> On Mar 23, 2023, at 08:58, JAS  wrote:
>
> Congrats on your Atlantis!  The blue is so pretty and you've done an 
> artful job of outfitting it with lots of blue blingy parts.  It's a 
> blue-lover's canvas.  Enjoy this beautiful ride!
>
>
> Joyce
>
> On Wednesday, March 22, 2023 at 4:00:07 PM UTC-7 gsna...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> My first bike build ended up being a Rivendell Atlantis in blue. And 
>> since I was building it up from the frame and got to pick parts, most other 
>> things in blue as well. 
>>
>> I have a Clem that is my usual commuter, so I don't *need* one... but I'd 
>> wanted an Atlantis since college... which is an embarrassingly long time 
>> ago. I finally decided to get one last year but as fate would have it, I 
>> was traveling and camping when they went on sale, and by the time I was 
>> back home, they were all out of both the 50 and 53cm. I reminded myself how 
>> much like moldy bread the Russian Submarine green looks in person, but that 
>> was just sour grapes.Then this popped up in a comment on facebook... I 
>> messaged the owner, asked he was serious about selling and did the deal in 
>> a few days.
>>
>> The original owner had ordered a Joe Appa but it was damaged in shipping, 
>> and Riv didn't have a spare in his size, so painted an Atlantis in the Appa 
>> colorway at the time apparently. Also why it has Atlantis 2 decals.
>>
>> VO rims with a Shutter Precision dynamo in the front, and White 
>> industries hub in the back, running 650b x 2.1 Terravail Sparwoods
>> Paul Motolites with Love levers
>> 38/24 Silver double with a Microshift Marvo FD
>> Shimano Altus on a 11-36 cassette
>> Silver shifters
>> Tosco 60cm bars
>> Nitto lugged stem
>> Ergon GS1 Evo grips
>> VP Vice pedals
>> Cambium C17
>> and a Tubus Cosmo rack
>> [image: DSC02230-2.jpg][image: DSC02231-2.jpg][image: DSC02235-2.jpg]
>>
>>
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> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[DavidP]

Nicely done, John!

-Dave

On Sunday, March 12, 2023 at 6:33:08 PM UTC-4 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> Yes, thank you! This is great. I’m hoping this will open up a whole new 
> level of interaction and adventure among us RBW owners!
>
> On Mar 12, 2023, at 6:04 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
> 
>
> John Rinker: Thank you, fun map!
>
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>  
> 
> .
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Gus is complete!

[DavidP]

Congrats! Great build and it looks so comfortable. Looking forward to see 
some photos of it out and about.

-Dave
On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 7:04:21 PM UTC-5 fra...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looks great! Can’t wait to see some more trail pictures and hear more 
> about how you’d compare it with the Clem!
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 3:45:11 PM UTC-8 Lucky wrote:
>
>> That looks awesome! Congrats! 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Mapping the Rivendell World

[DavidP]

Cool idea.
Here's another 
example: https://sites.google.com/view/openunicyclecalendar/open-unicycle-map

-Dave (also a unicyclist, near Boston)

On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 4:53:14 PM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:

> After seeing a few posts where others are wondering who rides a Riv 
> nearby, I got to wondering about the possibility of creating some sort of a 
> map whereby Riv riders could drop a pin near the city or town in which we 
> mostly ride. Of course, dropping a pin on one's home address may not be 
> what people want, but doing so in a public location (city post office) 
> might not be so bad.
>
> Perhaps there's already such a thing of which I'm unaware, but if not, can 
> anyone see any problems with this idea that I've missed in my enthusiasm?
>
> If anyone is familiar with the bike touring/hosting community, 
> Warmshowers.org, this is kind of what I have in mind.
>
> Anyways, just a thought. 
>
> Incidentally, any riders in the Mesa, AZ area?
>
> Cheers, John
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[DavidP]

Re-radiusing aluminum fenders is possible 
, the concern in this 
case is that the VO 63mm fenders are already as wide as will fit. I suppose 
it may possible to do the "widening" on most of the fender, leaving the 
places where it would hit frame/fork alone, and this line from the linked 
article may suggest that could work "You don't need to do a lot at a time. 
Little bits over the length of the fender can decrease the radius enough to 
work."

-Dave

On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 3:48:37 PM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Thanks Paul!  Great info, I think Honjos are more scratch than I want to 
> spend though :^(
>
> I wonder if getting a set of the V-O 63mm 700c fenders with the plan to 
> reshape them would be nuts?  Apparently you just gently bend them as if 
> you’re trying to widen them and it tightens up the curve…  I suppose it 
> would be pretty cool if it worked, and pretty darn lame if they ended up 
> ugly or ruined…
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 9:36 AM Paul (GlennsBikeGarage) <
> pa...@myrealagent.com> wrote:
>
>> Doug,
>>
>> I'm currently installing the Honjo H80 62mm smooth fenders on my 
>> daughter's 51cm Joe Appaloosa (650b) with 42mm Grand Bois tires. These 
>> fenders fit without any special bending, cutting, or manipulation and I 
>> would consider these the widest fender that will fit.  Hope that helps.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[DavidP]

Hi Doug,

Luke recently posted that he was able to squeeze Flat 65s on his Atlantis 
 but it wasn't 
a slam dunk. In the same thread, brizbarn posted that VO Fluted 63mm 
fenders just fit his 700c Joe 
.

I've been following such posts with interest as I consider fendering my 
Platypus.

-Dave

On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 2:30:29 PM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Howdy folks.
>
> What are the widest fenders that fit a JA (650B, if it matters) without 
> any manipulation?  I don’t have mine assembled yet, but I have SKS P50s 
> that have previously been on the bike and a set of never mounted V-O 52mm 
> Zeppelins.  If something wider fits without cutting etc. I would probably 
> prefer that…
>
> Thanks, Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[DavidP]

Luke recently posted that he was able to squeeze Flat 65s on his Atlantis 
 but it wasn't 
a slam dunk. In the same thread, brizbarn posted that VO Fluted 63mm 
fenders just fit his 700c Joe 
.

-Dave

On Tuesday, March 7, 2023 at 2:30:29 PM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Howdy folks.
>
> What are the widest fenders that fit a JA (650B, if it matters) without 
> any manipulation?  I don’t have mine assembled yet, but I have SKS P50s 
> that have previously been on the bike and a set of never mounted V-O 52mm 
> Zeppelins.  If something wider fits without cutting etc. I would probably 
> prefer that…
>
> Thanks, Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: 3D printed wheel building accessories

[DavidP]

Handy tools all of them but that nipple tool is the one that speaks to me 
most. I hate it when a nipple falls into the rim - I usually have to wait 
until the wheel is nearly laced to get it back out through the valve hole.

Sometimes when the fit/reach is tight I'll thread a spare spoke onto the 
back of the nipple to do the same job but that adds a lot of time (though 
not as much as dropping the nipple into the rim).

Thanks for sharing!
-Dave

On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 12:52:58 PM UTC-5 richdpow...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> X-posted Ibob/rbw
>
>
> The ERD discussion the other day got me thinking about some extras I came 
> across that are helpful to those building wheels. I thought I’d share. 
> Also, my typing skills coupled with a mobile device seems to increase my 
> errors, sorry about that! 
>
>
> Does anyone on the list have a 3d printer?  Who doesn’t like specialty 
> tools? I had a friend with a 3D printer make a few sets of these for me. 
> They are for a wheel building class in Des Moines. The class is a 
> fundraiser for the local Bike Collective. If you need a place to help in 
> your community, I’ve found this to be vary rewarding. 
>
> The items printed were mostly free files on online. A few bucks in 
> material.  Are they perfect? No, but close. They are fun and functional. 
> Can’t beat that!
>
>
> The orange spoke nipple tool uses a filed point on an old spoke to hold 
> the nipple through friction. It’s helpful as you turn it onto a spoke while 
> building. A real time saver. 
>
>
> The blue shuffler is a neat deal that tumbles all nipples into the slots 
> head up. This makes them all ready to easily pick with the  orange tool. 
>
>
> The yellow spoke wrench holder has a few mounting holes at the bottom to 
> fasten somewhere. 
>
>
> If you look around on https://www.thingiverse.com/ 
>
> Search for: spoke nipple shuffler, (a few versions are out there) Park 
> tool spoke wrench holder, Bicycle spoke nipple insertion tool. 
>
>
> The blue spoke wrench holder was purchased for $10 on Etsy. 3 small 
> magnets both hold it to the park stand (or other metal things) and hold the 
> wrenches in. I like how it is angled a bit, makes it nice and tidy. 
>
>
> Feel free to direct message me with any questions. I’m a slower responder 
> on-list. 
>
>
> -Rich in DSM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fitting the Hunqapillar for touring

[DavidP]

What a great opportunity to spend time with your father-in-law!

The question that came to mind on seeing the photos of the current setup 
was where the sleeping bag would fit in with the new setup. I wouldn't want 
it taking up space inside either the trunk/saddle bag or front paniers. 

John's photos answered that question. 

For not much more money than the Zeitgeist but a lot more space, I'd add a 
Sackville trunk (whichever model best matches the distance between your 
saddle and rear rack) as John's setup shows.

-Dave

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 8:18:37 PM UTC-5 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Sadly, I have never done any bicycle touring with racks and bags. However, 
> my suggestions would be go with Tubus racks: 
> https://www.tubus.com/en/products/
> or with Old Man Mountain: https://oldmanmountain.com/
> paired with Arkel panniers: https://arkel.ca/
>
> A long time ago, I was planning a bike tour with my daughter back in 2011. 
> However, she injured her knee and in turn we had to cancel the trip.  I 
> bought one set of  used Old Man Mountain racks and two used sets of Arkel 
> f/r panniers. The Arkel GT-52 for the rear and the Arkel GT-18 for the 
> front. I sold my f/r pair on eBay along time ago, However, I still have the 
> Old Man Mountain f/r racks and my daughter's pair of GT-52 panniers. I 
> washed them the other day. They look brand new. 
>
> I can proclaim that the Arkel panniers are very well made with lots of 
> compartments with heavy duty zippers and waterproof covers. 
>
> Unfortunately, I am unable to share any experience or knowledge of how my 
> Old Man Mountain racks hold up under load conditions. 
>
> Dreaming of one day bike camping with my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike,
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Clem for All Surfaces

[DavidP]

I find mixed surface rides to be so satisfying that almost all of my bikes 
end up being setup for them to one degree or another. The majority of Riv 
models are capable of them too. I built my Platypus with these types of 
rides in mind - with 55mm front and 50mm rear tires and wide Tosco bars. 
Looking forward to seeing more photos of Clems on dirt in this thread.

-Dave

On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 4:33:28 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> It's by no means a Clem, nor is it even a Rivendell, tho' a Rivendell 
> custom was its model, but this does very well on firm crusher fine acequia 
> Conservancy District roads and on impromptu unmaintained dirt shortcuts 
> between paved sections. 
>
> Rene Herse Extralight Naches Pass 559X42 cm at ~35/30 or 35/40 depending 
> on load.
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 12:32 PM Doug H.  wrote:
>
>> I rode my Clem for a mile or so on single-track this weekend and I have 
>> no complaints. Even with my narrow tires (Grand Bois Hetre 42 mm) I had 
>> good results. If I were to intend on a longer ride I would install wider 
>> tires and lower the pressure but I was doing mostly a road ride and the 
>> single-track was an unplanned excursion. It is nice to be on a bike that 
>> can handle most surfaces. The same ride included asphalt, gravel and dirt! 
>> Anyone else do off-road riding on a Clem?
>> Doug
>> [image: image0.jpeg]
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus questions

[DavidP]

On Friday, February 10, 2023 at 7:33:47 AM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
although I can mount it with the foot on pedal, push off, foot over top 
tube method.

Wow, now I've got to try this!

-Dave
 

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