For those that missed it, the Riv crew posted a little how-to on their news
blog:
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news/how-to-adjust-a-threaded-headset
Max
On Saturday, July 29, 2023 at 7:50:49 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
> Thanks Wes, George and Piaw - It seems like I need to go back and readjust
>
Thanks Wes, George and Piaw - It seems like I need to go back and readjust
my headset!
Max
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 3:58:29 PM UTC-4 George Schick wrote:
> There's another aspect to adjusting threaded headsets: holding the fork
> stationary while using the two wrenches (one on the bottom
There's another aspect to adjusting threaded headsets: holding the fork
stationary while using the two wrenches (one on the bottom of the upper
stack and the other on the locknut). Stein Tools sells this device to
accomplish
that: https://steintool.com/portfolio-items/fork-stabilizer-tool/.
Are the FSA Duron headsets that come with Rivs sealed bearings? The FSA
website claims angular contact bearings but lists the seals separately?
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 10:00:56 AM UTC-7 Wesley wrote:
> This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and
> tandem):
> 1.
Adding to Wesley's excellent advice, I've found that applying a thin layer
of LocTite "blue" to the threads of the top locknut will help keep it from
loosening up over time.
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 12:31:23 PM UTC-5 Wesley wrote:
> Oh, and to be more practical: If you can turn the top
Oh, and to be more practical: If you can turn the top (lock) nut by hand,
it is not doing anything. I am not sure why the video recommends backing
off the lock nut, but I don't think you should. The "lock" function comes
from tightening that nut until it stretches the steerer. Taken to the
This advice all applies only to threaded forks (all Rivs except Gus and
tandem):
1. Use as many spacers as necessary so that the lock nut (top nut) is fully
engaged with the threads but doesn't bottom out.
2. Most (or all) threaded forks have a key groove in the steer tube,
cutting vertically