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The spirit of Detroit Pepe Escobar - Asia Times Online DETROIT - Forget about Bush vs Kerry - at least for the moment. The real deal is Motown against Tinseltown - or The Temptations against the Terminator. Most Americans thought the National Basketball Association (NBA) finals would be a slam-dunk for the Los Angeles Lakers. But then the Detroit Pistons - deep, tough, gritty, resilient, the antithesis of superstardom - got into the groove. Now Motown is in a trance - or deep house - mixed by legendary DJ Jeff Mills. Mayor Kwame Kilpatrick even ordered his staff to cut through mountains of red tape and logistics and drape a Pistons jersey over the drab Spirit of Detroit downtown statue. Meteor Inc of Troy, which does graphic work for the Palace of Auburn Hills, where the Pistons may clinch their NBA title this Tuesday, will oblige. Detroit Industry, the Diego Rivera mural, celebrates the auto workers who built Detroit's wheels. The Spirit of Detroit, the Meteor Inc version, will celebrate basketball workers. As for the kryptonite - as the banners at Auburn Hills say it - it's been supplied by the two Wallaces, Ben and Rasheed, and by Richard Hamilton and Chauncey Billups, who have seriously annoyed Kobe Bryant and Shaquille O'Neal, the Man of Steel, and kept torturing them with their defense of ... steel. The 1960s Motown generation is now saying this is as good as the Temptations doing "Get Ready". As with most things musical, Detroit hit the groove much ahead of the rest of the nation. Of the 15,000-plus who answered a pistons.com poll, 65% thought the Pistons would beat the Lakers - now derided as the LA Fakers. But only 2% bet it could come down to Pistons in five. Lakers.com didn't run a similar poll. "Cool," says Jerry at American Coney Island in downtown Detroit. "Look what happened the last time they let Californians vote." Wheel of fortune Good news in Motown usually rides on wheels. Like the Detroit Free Press ("On Guard for 173 Years") gleefully announcing that even with gasoline at more than US$2 a gallon, Americans are far from ditching their pickups, sport-utility vehicles and vans: sales of light trucks were up by 4.7% in May, while car sales were up by only 1.9%. The secret: cash-back rebates and very low-interest financing. But make no mistake: since 2000 Michigan has been living in a Danteesque ninth circle of economic hell. It remains a key swing state in the November presidential election. Detroit is a succession of spectacular urban debris dotting no-man's-land streets. What to do with all those decrepit buildings? Mayor Kilpatrick wants to set up a plan by autumn designed to help people buy abandoned property for restoration. But for the moment his main problem is the falling demolition budget - and environmental concerns that demolition en masse would release asbestos into whole Detroit neighborhoods. The city is in dire straits - having to deal with a structural deficit that may lead to 2,000 more jobs being lost. The backup plan is to approve the construction of three permanent hotel- casinos. More than 30% of young adults roaming around Detroit's no-man's lands are school dropouts. Almost 20% of unemployed teenagers aged 16-19 are not in school. On the bright side, the rate of teen deaths by accident, homicide or suicide dropped by 22% from 1996 to 2001, according to the Kids Count 2004 organization. No wonder Marine Corps recruiters approaching teenagers outside malls to enlist them have their hands full. Corporate Motown loves it, but popular Motown harbors extreme mixed feelings about outsourcing. Anthony Bradley of the Acton Institute in Grand Rapids says that according to Forrester Research Inc, of more than 2.7 million jobs lost in the United States in the past three years, only 300,000 can be attributed to outsourcing. Today General Motors is using more than 25,000 robots in its factories. Bradley says that "blaming foreign workers as scapegoats for the fallout from technological change sabotages America's preparedness for such change". He adds that "outsourcing outmoded jobs opens the door for Americans to land better jobs and improve their well-being". That's not exactly the view of the hordes of down-and-out in downtown Detroit. Sonic revolution Berry Gordy once got a small house on West Grand Boulevard that he baptized Hitsville USA and an $800 loan to produce his first hit record. Still today, when we enter the legendary Motown Studio A, kept exactly as it was in the mid-1960s, it's possible to hear The Temptations do their dance routine on "My Girl" and The Supremes lay down those heavenly harmonies in "You Can't Hurry Love". Where would we find the contemporary Detroit symmetry to this fabulous combination of vision, talent, creativity, enterprise and extreme hard work? Motown was based on 2468 West Grand Boulevard, in the two-story Hitsville. Underground Resistance is based on 3000 East Grand Boulevard, its headquarters at the three-story Laundry Workers Local 129. Michael Anthony Banks, or Mad Mike, is the contemporary equivalent of Berry Gordy. Underground Resistance (UR) describes itself as "a label for a movement which wants to create change by a sonic revolution". UR spins techno, "the music of the future of the universe". Not just any techno, but the Detroit Pistons of techno: deep, tough, gritty and resilient. Its key message is to "transmit these tones and wreak havoc on the programmers". UR has "allies" in the United Kingdom, Ireland, Scotland, Australia and Japan. Its techno genius is Jeff Mills ("The Man from Tomorrow"). "Soldiers" include Agent Chaos, The Suburban Knight, Abdul Qadim Haqq and The Aztec Mystic. This is music as guerrilla warfare, rebels with a cause - unlike the myriad corporations making easy money off the yurban - young and urban - African-American demographic. Bryan Mattox at Burrell Communications Group - the largest black-owned advertising agency in the US - may be milking the cow. But as far as good jobs for black people are concerned, at least he is consulting instead of consuming, exploring marketing opportunities for hip-hop culture, or "young black folks", in his own words. Brian Bullock, manager of business operations of the National Basketball Development League, the minor-league NBA, and Gregory Reed, writer, playwright and even producer of a TV documentary on The Temptations, and the first black lawyer to be awarded Michigan's highest honor for entertainment lawyers, also managed to position themselves in the midst of a sea of downsizing and outsourcing. But they are islands, not continents. When Detroit needs to escape from stress, it can always seek refuge in the Tara ("star") - the key female deity in Buddhism (Tara in India, Dolma in Tibet, Kwan Yin in China, Kannon in Japan). Tara protects us from the eight fears that cause suffering: pride, ignorance, anger, jealousy, delusion, stinginess, desire and doubt. Gehlek Rimpoche, a Tibetan monk who became a US citizen after the Chinese killed his mother in Tibet and today directs a Buddhist center in Ann Arbor, half an hour away from Detroit, says: "There's a special need for Tara now. America is dominated by feelings of fear, from the war in Iraq to crime in the streets and violence in the media. Tara is a metaphor, a way for us to find the joy within ourselves so that we can end the suffering of others around us." Without ever having heard of Tara, Mr E ("call me E, for energy"), officiating in front of Motown's Hitsville on West Grand, couldn't be more connected to the joy within ourselves. He describes his job as "guardian to the gates of Mecca" - that is, Motown. A long conversation unfolds like a Buddhist mandala - from Detroit urban violence to Iraq, from racism to courtyard fountains, from soul music to eastern wisdom. Mr E says he's a nomad: he may not even be there next week. Now you see him, now you don't. Call it a satori in front of the house that Gordy built. Or call it the power of the spirit of Detroit. No superstars. No special effects. Just underground resistance. The spirit of Detroit. Somehow the Pistons beating the Lakers fits a larger cosmic pattern, and may embody poetic justice after all.