Tree height in a high density orchard depends on your latitude, row width and 
orientation i.e. N-S or E-W.
While a short tree might be ideal if you want to go ladderless at our latitude 
here in Montana 12 foot tall trees oriented N-S with a 14' drive row take 
maximum advantage of the sun.
I've seen an online calculator for this but don't recall where. My bet is 
google knows though.
To stop or slow down trees from growing taller I just head back to a weaker 
side branch, hopefully one that has fruited, or you can bend down the central 
leader to 45° or less with string once it gets to the desired height.
I never cut the central leader till it reaches the desired height.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 10:06 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Makes sense to me now.

I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had is, 
"Why is it important to not cut the leader?"  Seems like an idea situation to 
me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are self supporting and 
cut the top out every year to two to control the height of the trees.  Another 
thought is that the dwarf trees are really large trees, in my mind - 10+ feet.  
Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about 7 feet would be idea, planted a 
foot apart - wild thoughts...

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula 
<sbib...@maine.rr.com<mailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com>> wrote:
Hugh,

What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a ultimately 
similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high density plantings, 
with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support needed and fewer trees per 
acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree life than with straight dwarf 
rootstocks.

I have a few sloped and curving fields that don't lend themselves to 
post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.

Steven Bibula

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net<mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net>
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net<mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net>]
 On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM

To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Steven,
Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems?

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula 
<sbib...@maine.rr.com<mailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com>> wrote:
I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is about 
Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That is, does 
anyone have experience with this.

Steven Bibula

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net<mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net>
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net<mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net>]
 On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Rich,
I'm curious about your location and elevation.

On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett 
<reofar...@gmail.com<mailto:reofar...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from 
powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've 
juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest apple 
tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck

On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly 
<kelly...@metrocast.net<mailto:kelly...@metrocast.net>> wrote:

I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look sometime.

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, Maine
On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:

I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, any 
thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My thinking: 
If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, maybe it is 
better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go with fewer 
trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last longer, need 
less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, U-Pick friendly 
fruiting wall.

Steven Bibula
Plowshares Community Farm
236 Sebago Lake Road
Gorham ME 04038
207.239.0442<tel:207.239.0442>
www.plowsharesmaine.com<http://www.plowsharesmaine.com/>

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Rich Everett

Everett Family Farm
"Fine Organics From Seed to Core"
reofar...@gmail.com<mailto:reofar...@gmail.com>




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