Re: New computer,what should I go for,mac,windows etc
@Grryf:
What about online ordering and home delivery? Bypass the obnoxious service centre for your initial build, somehow. Check the "Apple Store" app on iOS. You've got to get a BTO upgrade on your processor; there is no other way. Once you have that, bring the machine in and upgrade RAM, HDD by yourself. Or get Apple to do both, at extraordinary expense. Here's the major downside to this master plan: you have to have somebody who would be willing to follow instructions online (there are many of them for this machine, really) and carefully open up your precious new MBP, and install your new SSD and RAM (optionally, with a caddy, also a second SSD, but I'd not be so hasty to go for that, since there's a slot in the casing).
As for minimum requirements, assuming a worst-case scenario: 4 GB RAM, 8 recommended, and you really want an SSD. True, if the machine is up for long enough, the SSD becomes less and less relevant as more data is cached in RAM, but 4 GB is definitely taking your chances because it's Apple's current hardware minimum. Apple always uses minimums, and they always suck, for obvious reasons. If you can believe it, they currently recommend 2 GB minimum; in practice that is simply unbearable.
Windows 7 does install onto GPT systems supporting UEFI, but it still relies on the legacy VGA interface for graphics (this was fixed in Windows 8, and now contemporary Macs don't even include the CSM and support 8+ only). Apple's EFI offers GOP (graphics drawing) only, which is the appropriate way to support the frame buffer under the EFI environment, but Windows didn't, and so Apple didn't use or support Win7 plus EFI. You *might* be able to make it work by using an unattended install or the WinPE environment, but my personal recommendation is not to bother; it saves a few seconds of boot time, and not much else, in practice, while introducing other problems. The only other major reason to switch to UEFI was AHCI support, but I do believe that the 2012 MBP was the first to default AHCI for the CSM, so even there, you're fine. There are workarounds in the event that it isn't happening, but I imagine once you have your firmware upgraded, it'll be correctly supported and you can check in Windows that you are using the native AHCI drivers. This is, of course, most important when using an SSD.
Right, anything else?
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