http://www.juancole.com/2009/07/coda-final-dispatch-from-tehran.html


  Informed Comment <http://www.juancole.com/>

*Thoughts on the Middle East, History, and Religion* 
<http://www.juancole.com>

Juan Cole is President of the Global Americana Institute


    Wednesday, July 01, 2009


      Coda: Final Dispatch from Tehran

/This message was received by email from Tehran three hours ago. I have 
anonymized it and made a couple of orthographical corrections and am 
passing it on for what it is worth. - JC /

And on the thirteenth day Michael Jackson died. Voice of America and BBC 
Persian are back up, if intermittently, and we crowd around like the 
rest of the world for the latest news. It is almost a relief. Being a 
full-time revolutionary is hard work, difficult to sustain. Seeing the 
non-stop coverage, the obvious distraction of his passing, we grimly 
joke that Michael was a martyr for the cause. At least he had the 
decency to delay his death until the worst violence had already passed.

Things are going back to their regular marks. In the afternoons the 
parks fill up again with old ladies and young couples. There's badminton 
and soccer for kids to play at night. Well-dressed men in jackets and 
dress pants exercise on the cardio equipment provided by the city. The 
scenes around the squares, lately the places of so much celebration and 
trouble, are almost back to normal. Traffic is back. A car flies towards 
Ariashahr Square, a young man with slicked back hair and aviator glasses 
leans out of the passenger window chest first. He removes his shades and 
turns his palms upwards, beseeching the ladies in the car next to him to 
pull over. Unimpressed, or maybe they're being coy, the girls pull away 
and race ahead of their pursuers. The two boys give chase. Cops and 
basijis hang around the circle but do nothing, what do they care...?

Every young person I see I wonder, What were you doing three weeks ago? 
Who were you then? I look for signs of subversion. A girl wears a green 
headscarf. A kid shifts gears in his Kia Pride with an arm encased in a 
green cast. What does it mean? Together, in a crowd, the color green 
added up to something. Alone, spread apart and without context, they are 
just moments of coincidence.

Television has become almost unbearable. Stories alternate between the 
mundane and the absurd. The evening news shows us parents waiting 
outside of testing halls where their kids are taking the Konkur, the 
once-yearly high stakes university entrance exam. This year, more than 
ever, the Konkur is an act of faith. For the less than half who get 
accepted and manage to finish their studies, one wonders what kind of 
job market will await them. A friend remarks, We've got to be the most 
educated unemployed in the world. Sometimes it seems that all we do is 
attend class, schooling has become the ultimate distraction.

The report on the Konkur ends and the next item is the case of Neda 
Khanom. Like Jim Garrison in JFK, the reporter shows us step-by-step how 
her death could NOT have been the result of a single gunman. The caliber 
doesn't match, it occurred on side streets, why is there footage of her 
before the incident, etc.. The reporter hints ominously at darker forces 
active inside of the country, that her death was no doubt a setup by a 
foreign power. Even by IRI standards, the report is breathtaking. Rather 
than hide the incident or pretend like it never happened, they try to 
play it to their advantage. There seems to be nothing beyond the pale, 
no outrage too great...We reminisce about better days, when the lying 
had enough truth in it that you could at least fool yourself into 
believing.

Khoobe, khoobe, bezar begand. Harchi bishtar, baytar. Good, good, let 
them say it. The more the better. Hamintor khatra siatar mikonand. 
They'll only darken the line separating the people from the government. 
We sit and plot, kitchen revolutionaries at work. It is late and the 
drink is loosening our tongues. What we need is leadership. What about 
Mousavi? Poor Mousavi, all alone...If only Khomeini were still around, 
he would have put all of these guys in their places!, this last bit said 
by someone who has never accepted the Revolution. At 10 the neighbors 
start up, Allah Akbar! Allah Akbar! We keep drinking, pressing our hands 
flat against the table and wondering if maybe they're letting us thrash 
around for a few weeks even as the screws tighten...

Still...I've written elsewhere that none of this was supposed to happen. 
It remains true. It is the people, the mellat, that has taken on the 
most creative and unexpected role in this drama. Their scenario remains 
the least predictable, and therefore most hopeful, of all of the actors, 
foreign or Iranian. Iran's conspirators clearly did not expect the 
population to show up in such defiant numbers after June 12 and the 
truth be told, neither did many of us...

We are told, Mellat e Iran ra nashenakhtim. The state says that the 
turnout and election results shows that the world and by implication the 
opposition didn't understand the Iranian people. Mellat e Iran ra 
nashenakhtim. We didn't understand the Iranian people, say certain 
analysts in Europe and the U.S.. The vote proves that Ahmadinejad is 
loved and the West once again didn't get the "true Iran."

Still...as the unrest continues, daily taking new forms---Iran's 
innumerable revolutionary, religious, and national holidays promise to 
be new sites of protest--it would appear that it is the state and its 
band of fellow travelers in the West that has failed to understand what 
has happened...

Cats are on the prowl in the kuchehs and sidestreets of Tehran. They've 
never had it better. A two-year effort by the city to outfit the capital 
with trash bins has gone to waste. In a few nights of protest 
practically every bin in the city has been kicked over, stomped on, 
melted into its primal elements. Neighbors have gone back to placing 
trash-filled yellow and black grocery bags at the end of the alley (sar 
e kuche) at night. The cats wait until no one is around and then show up 
sniffing, padding about, looking for their night's food.

Throughout the capital there are deep marks etched onto the asphalt, 
mottled grooves in the shape of a blocky "u" from where the bin fires 
burned hot against the pavement. The scars run at regular intervals 
across Tehran's many neighborhoods, sometimes in overlapping pairs or 
threes. It will be some time before these blemishes are repaired. 
Entirely new roads will have to be built...

(Dedicated to the geniuses at Nokia/Siemens 
<http://www.wired.com/threatlevel/2009/06/wsj-nokia-and-siemens-help-iran-spy-on-internet-users/>)
 

-- 
Linda
*http://freedetainees.org <http://freedetainees.org/>
"If we shadows have offended, Think but this,
and all is mended, That you have but slumber'd
here While these visions did appear..."
- William Shakespeare
*


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