Addendum:

OK these standoffs ain't bad and they are only $0.06 per.

https://www.biscoind.com/Bivar/9905-250?gclid=CPK3vPLP8tECFQ9Efgod8csM8A

Just don't spend megabucks at Home Hardware is my point. Get a big ole bag 
of these. Important for BBB projects IMO. :)

On Thursday, February 2, 2017 at 2:09:39 PM UTC-7, woody stanford wrote:
>
> OK, here is a short primer on how the good guys build things in a serious 
> hobbyist setting.
>
> The development is done in 2 main stages. Breadboarding, and PCB 
> construction (with presensitized board).
>
> The reason why the breadboarding phase is because the Inet is great, but 
> you can't believe everything you read on it. What you want to do is look on 
> the WWW for ideas and then breadboard them out. Once you get them reliable 
> and you undersand their operation, you can use the technique in your 
> personal projects.
>
> How you do this on a budget (as it is the Great Recesion) is you get cheap 
> Chinese breadboards on ebay for $5 a piece free shipping. Like here,
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/830-Tie-Points-Solderless-PCB-Breadboard-MB102-65Pcs-Jumper-cable-wires-/231412564779?hash=item35e143832b:m:mlV4jkc4DpzzqjQsn-zO0-w
>
> The latest and greatest idea, the only downside is that it takes longer 
> than a week to get your stuff in but the price is right. You can also get 
> broken out sensors and the like for dirt cheap (basically mounted great 
> stuff the big guys use in smart phones and tablets). $5 per component is 
> typical if you know where to go.
>
> What you do is peal the backs off them an mount them to a 2' x 2' piece of 
> plywood you can get at Home Depot. And you are ready to rock. next step is 
> to find inexpensive, reliable power. A cool thing I've been playing with is 
> tablet bricks because they are reliable, ubiquitous and a lot of them 
> deliver a strong 1.0 Amp or 5VDC. Take your soldering iron, figure out the 
> GND and the +5VDC and you have comfortable power on the 1 amp range. As 
> always, PC switching power supplies are great too (just get a $5 DMM from 
> Harbour Freight and sacrifice its leads so you have a constant digital 
> power monitor....solder it on and wrap with electrical tape).
>
> What you do is you mount everything on your plywood. You take your 
> Fiscar's drill (with $2 high-speed steel Harbour Freight drill bits) and 
> you get a nice selection of dollar-store machine screws (and nuts) that 
> you've "tackle-box-ized". Shop the 99 Cent Store for these cheap tackle 
> boxes and pick up about a dozen of them to keep your stuff in (resisters, 
> relays, diods and voltage regulators). The trick with this is: mouser, but 
> listen...you can get premade kits for around $70 but they have less than $5 
> worth of parts in them. What you want to do is put them together yourself 
> and when you get low on standard parts (like certain resistor values) you 
> just restock. All it takes is time to build these part kits, you put 
> together generic BOM (bill of materials) for your tackle box kits so you 
> have a nice selection of standard caps, diodes, transistors, MOSFETS, tiny 
> relays, optoisolators, MCU's like PIC's and of cource exotics like NEO6M's, 
> preprogrammed MCU's, and MCU6050's.
>
> Modern hacking requires attention to ESD (electrostatic discharge) because 
> a lot of your stuff has sensitive digital logic in it. The fix is basic. 
> Take a piece of silver solder and stick it in your ground power rail so 
> about an inch of its hanging out. Every time you get up to walk around 
> (where you accumulate chip-killing static) when you sit back down, just run 
> your finger unconsciously across the solder tail. You are now grounded. 
> Formal ESC with a wrist strap is ok too. But don't wire yourself to ground 
> btw as this can lead to you doing an impression of a light-emitting 
> resistor (an old joke but a good one); think about it electrically.
>
> OK, you BBB (in my case my BBBW), what you want to do is mount everything 
> to your plywood so when the wife says playtime is over, you can just put it 
> up. Also, claiming a second "junk drawer" in your kitchen is a life-saver 
> specifically for all your little tools and tackle boxes.What you do is you 
> get
>
> *** STANDOFFS ***
>
> To make standoffs you get a length of small-dimater ridged plastic tube 
> and you cut pieces off yourself (getting them from Home Hardware is 
> expensive)  One of my little secrets.
>
> To attach your BBB to the plywood, mark the holes with a fine Sharpy, load 
> your bit in your Fiscars (at a slightly smaller diameter than the screw you 
> will use) and just sink a hole half-way through. Then take handful of 
> screws, a few standoffs and mount your BBB in a majestic location on your 
> plywood. Takes like 30 seconds and its secured for weeks of tinkering.
>
> Cut lengths of SOLID CORE insulated wire and strip the ends with a solid 
> professional grade wire stripper (they are cheap and so worth it). Now you 
> have all the wire you will ever need. First step with it is to wire your 
> breadboards power rails. Connect all the blue (or GND) rails with insulated 
> wire and what I do is run 3.3V on the left rail and 5V on the right rail 
> (because I'm working a lot of times with both BBB and TTL), but if just 
> working with 3.3V parts you can wire all your rails 3.3V to cut down on 
> confusion.
>
> You can do strain-relief by just knotting the power cord or whatever 
> through a hole in your plywood. Keeps you from jerking sensitive wires and 
> cables loose when moving around.
>
> THE PLAN
>
> OK, what you do is you experiment on your breadboards connecting 
> everything with wire. We all know how to do this. Get a complete working 
> version of the circuit(s) on your breadboard set up. This will become your 
> master reference for the next step: DIY PCB construction.
>
>
>

-- 
For more options, visit http://beagleboard.org/discuss
--- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"BeagleBoard" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to beagleboard+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/beagleboard/987166d9-ed68-4178-b241-f35a3a8fb6a4%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Reply via email to