>Since these guys are smaller than your typical woolies, and need
> > less protien, I would think they would eat less, but I don't know this
to
> > be a fact.  Any and all advice would be very appreciated.
>
>It is the way as you see it, but it depends on to  the genetics.
98% of our Blackbelly herd has not been able to
>compete with the hardy type of stouth wool  or african tribal heep
>over winter.
Either we fed good hay, or they died. Same for St Croix , they
>need good feed.There has no selection been over generations, survie for the
fittest.

>Not to forget that our sheep lamb every 6 to 7 months and have often time
>triples.Lambs have to be able to eat hay and straw the first hours of their
live, other wise the best ewe is down in short time.
>
>Over ten years I selected the sheep for hardiness, fertility and capacity
to
>be able to live for a few weeks on straw.
>Out of the best genetics we raise, one group of  pregnant ewelambs have
been
>fed every second day, low protein hay.
>An other group daily with good alfalfa hay and corn silage. Difficult to
>understand, but the not so good fed group has had better lambs. I have had
>problems to accept that.
>
>We learned in a long process: If you use replacement rams, look for that
>they keep the first set of theeth unitl an age of 2.5 to 3 years.Genetics
>which are able to do that have a longer livespan and good capacity to feed
>on low protein hay or straw.'
>
>No trenching or vaccination at all, mark lambs which have parasite problems
>and cull them. Ewes with  lambing problems, sell them for meat as soon as
>possible. Rams should be kept apart and they get only straw for months.
>It is amazing how long they do well with that kind of feed and it seems to
>me that they are much more healthy that way.
>
>Replacement ewelambs should only be take of ewes which bred back in April.
>No other breed is as fertile and able to be rebred as the Barbados
>Blackbelly and African sheep. I have had ewes with triples in January, an
>other set in July and they are already rebred.
>It did take a high toll over years. Out of 600 BB I kept a 15 ewes, but
they
>are top producing. The mistake in my program, it is very expensive to work
>this way .
>On the other hand the workload is down after a good selecting. Today I
>manage over 5000 ewes, never helped one at lambing time , often I don't see
>them for a week or two.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Julian Hale" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 3:24 PM
>Subject: [blackbelly] Overwintering sheep?
>
>
> > OK, I've read Carol's winter feeding regimen, I'm wondering what other
> > people do.  I've talked to a couple local sheep raisers, and they feed
pea
> > pellets over the winter, and supplement with hay(for roughage?).  It
seems
> > to me that alfalfa hay and a bit of grain, while it may be more
expensive,
> > is a better diet.  Since I'm totally new to raising sheep, I'd like to
>know
> > what other people overwinter their sheep on.  Also, approximately how
much
> > hay do they eat?  Storey's says that sheep eat 5-7 bales each over the
> > winter... Since these guys are smaller than your typical woolies, and
need
> > less protien, I would think they would eat less, but I don't know this
to
> > be a fact.  Any and all advice would be very appreciated.
> >
> > Thank you,
> > Julian Hale
> >
> >
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