On my saw, I can use the rip fence on either side of the blade. earlier, [EMAIL PROTECTED], wrote:
>Hi Ray, >I've barely ever used a TS. So I have questions. >The miter guide goes cross cut, right? >Think I got that. >But where does the rip guide go? I would think "para" with the blade. But >isn't that the job of the main guide? >There are 3 guides mentioned in this article. >Differentiate please. >Sorry for density. > >On Tue, 20 Feb 2007, Boyce, Ray wrote: > > > Hi All > > Up Close with Table Saws > > > > If you're serious about woodworking, then you're well versed in > the wonders of a table saw. And if you're new to woodworking, or > interested in picking it > > up as a hobby, then you'll find that a table saw is one of the > most versatile woodworking tools available. Table saws can be used > for crosscutting, miter > > cutting, bevel cutting, compound miter cutting, ripping, bevel > ripping, rabbeting, resawing and molding. Because it's so > versatile, a table saw often serves > > as the "flag ship" tool of a home workshop. With a table saw, a > circular saw blade protrudes through a smooth table surface, > cutting stock as you feed > > it into the blade. Since the user guides the stock into the > blade, rather than the blade into the stock, table saws offer > supreme control and accuracy > > for a huge variety of cutting chores. > > > > A table saw's blade can be replaced with different blades or > special cutting heads for a variety of applications. > > > > The Basics > > > > Modern table saws feature an adjustable blade that can be raised > or lowered within the table to accommodate a variety of cutting depths. Blade > > height (the amount of blade protruding above the table surface) > is typically adjusted with an elevation wheel. Turn the wheel to > raise or lower the blade. > > The elevation wheel also pivots, and locks and unlocks its > position. The pivoting action tilts the saw blade from zero to 45 > degrees to make bevel or straight > > cuts. The motor and blade are usually housed beneath the table > surface, which is constructed of smooth steel to facilitate easy > sliding of stock over the > > work surface. > > > > Easy-to-use controls allow you to adjust the height and tilt of the blade. > > > > A tilted blade allows you to make accurate bevel cuts. > > > > Table saws vary in size, features, engineering and capacity, > ranging from smaller benchtop models to large, expensive "cabinet" models used > > by professional woodworkers. Table saws can operate on a > direct-drive, or be driven by a single V-belt, a serpentine belt or > multiple V-belts. Contractor > > saws-the type most used by homeowners and the focus of this > article-feature three primary accessories that help with operation: > a blade guard, a miter > > gauge and a rip fence. > > > > The blade guard, which covers the blade, not only provides a > barrier between the blade and your hands but protects the user from > flying debris. > > The blade guard should always be in place when making cuts where > the blade penetrates completely through the workpiece. A splitter > is also an important > > feature and is configured as part of the blade guard. A splitter, > or spreader, is a thin fin of metal positioned in line with the > rear of the saw. Its > > purpose is to prevent the cut piece from rotating, preventing > kickback. Plus, the splitter usually has two anti-kickback wings > with sharp teeth. When the > > workpiece moves toward the user, the teeth dig into the stock to > hold it safely and securely. > > > > The blade guard should be used for all cuts where the blade > completely penetrates through the workpiece. It should align > perfectly behind the blade of the > > saw. > > > > Table saws have one or two grooves in the table surface, running > parallel to the blade to position the miter gauge. When crosscutting, the > miter > > gauge is usually set at 90 degrees to the plane of the blade to > cut the workpiece at a right angle. Of course, the miter gauge can > also be adjusted and > > locked in position to cut precisely controlled angles, or miters. > A good miter gauge should have stops at 45 and 90 degrees and swing > to both sides. > > > > The rip fence is a guide that runs from the front to the rear of > the table, perfectly parallel to the blade. The distance of the fence from > > the blade can be adjusted, and it guides the workpiece when > ripping stock to width. A good rip fence will be solidly > constructed with a firm fit in every > > position on the table surface. > > > > Using the Miter Gauge > > > > The miter gauge will be your go-to tool for making crosscuts, > miter cuts, bevel cuts, compound miter cuts and when making rabbets across the > > end of a workpiece. When using the miter gauge, first clear the > table surface of the rip fence and any other accessories, scraps or > debris. While the motor > > is off, set the blade height to cut about 1/4 inch through the > stock. Measure and mark the cutline on the workpiece, and align the > mark with the cut indicator > > on the saw. If crosscutiing, lock the miter gauge at a 90-degree > angle to the blade. If miter cutting, lock the miter guage at the > desired angle using > > the marked graduations. Hold the stock firmly against the fence > and stand to either side of the saw (to avoid any debris that may > be thrown toward you > > during cutting). Turn on the saw, and with a steady, smooth > motion push the miter gauge and workpiece forward, so the stock > moves into the blade. Be sure > > to keep your hands out of the path of the blade. Note: You may > want to glue a piece of sandpaper to the head of the miter gauge to > prevent the workpiece > > from slipping around. Also, if the workpiece is warped, then > place the concave side facing down. This helps prevent it from > rocking while being cut. > > > > The miter guage has marked graduations to set the cut at a specific angle. > > > > The miter gauge is the go-to accessory for making crosscuts and miter cuts. > > > > When making bevel cuts or compound miter cuts, use the same > process but adjust the tilt of the blade to the desired angle using > the graduations > > marked on the blade tilt control. Adjust the tilt and lock it securely. > > > > Homemade stops are useful when you want to cut a number of pieces > the same length without having to mark each piece. Never use the rip fence > > as a length stop because the cut-off piece could bind against the > blade and cause kickback. Instead, when making repetitive cuts, you > can make a stop by > > clamping a 3-inch block of wood to the table at the desired > length. Make sure the stop block is well in front of the blade and > clamped securely. > > > > When making cuts with the miter gauge, one rule of thumb (if you > want to keep yours) is to complete the cut, pull the workpiece back and push > > the cut-off piece off the table with a "push stick"-don't use > your hands. Also use the push stick to remove small cut-off pieces > from the table surface, > > otherwise they could be thrown back toward you by the spinning > blade. (Check out the diagram below to learn how to make a push > stick.) Always keep your > > hands away from the blade and never make any cuts freehand > (without using the miter gauge, rip fence or other auxiliary > device). And anytime you're cutting > > a long piece, make sure to support the cut-off end from the floor. > > > > Using the Rip Fence > > > > The rip fence is an indispenable tool for ripping, bevel ripping, > rabbeting along the stock's length, or resawing. Always begin by clearing > > the work surface of the miter gauge and any other obstacles or > debris. Set the blade height and position the fence according to > the width of cut. Most > > modern saws feature a graduated scale on the edge of the table to > line up the rip fence's pointer, which indicates the measurement > between the blade and > > fence. Some saws also feature a dual scale equipped with a > secondary pointer and an extendable table for making cuts in wide > materials. Either way, always > > lock the rip fence securely to the table when using it. > > > > When ripping, always make sure the rip fence is parallel with the > saw blade, and the splitter, or spreader, is properly aligned with the blade. > > > > A rip fence guides the workpiece when ripping stock to width. > Here it's being used to cut kerfs in a feather board. > > > > Use outfeed supports, such as the roller shown, to support long > or wide stock. > > > > For standard ripping, use both hands to push the stock forward > and firmly against the rip fence, guiding the workpiece into the > blade. The blade > > should be set to cut 1/8 inch beyond the surface of the stock. > Bevel ripping is done in the same manner, but with the blade tilted > to the desired angle > > and locked into place. Use a "push stick" to push the workpiece > completely past the blade to complete the rip. Remember to cut > warped stock with the concave > > side down. And when ripping long boards or panels, always use > work support such as an outfeed roller, or a sawhorse clamped with > a sheet of plywood at > > the proper height to support the work evenly. > > > > When ripping, always use a push stick to keep your hands away > from the blade. > > > > Homemade Gadgets for the Table Saw > > > > Push Stick: A push stick is a simple tool made from a 15-inch > piece of wood with beveled and notched ends to nudge the end of a > workpiece past > > the blade and off the table.This is an important safety tool used > for ripping and bevel ripping, as well as clearing the table of wood scraps. > > > > Auxiliary Fence and Push Block: In some cases of very narrow > rips, such as less than 2 inches wide, a push stick can't be used > because the blade > > guard interferes with it. In such a case, you can build an > L-shaped "auxiliary fence" about 5-1/2 inches wide and long enough > to fit your table surface > > (see page 20). Clamp the L-shaped lip to the rip fence with two > C-clamps. The lower side of the auxiliary fence acts as an > extension of the rip fence, > > only with a lower profile to guide the stock by sliding beneath > the guard for closer proximity to the blade. Feed the stock into > the blade by hand until > > the end nears the edge of the table, and then use a "push block" > to complete it. > > > > A push block is built to fit flush over an auxiliary fence as a > sliding guide. It has a handle in the middle and a small piece of wood is > glued > > to the corner of its underside to push the end of the workpiece > into the blade, completing the cut. > > > > Auxiliary Fence and Feather Boards: The auxiliary fence can also > be used to support "resawing" operations. Resawing is ripping a piece of stock > > through its thickness, like cutting a 2-by-4 into a 1-by-4. When > the stock is stood on its side, it can be supported on either side > by "sandwiching" the > > workpiece between the rip fence and the "L" side of the auxilary > fence, which is clamped to the table surface. Don't attempt to > resaw warped material. > > > > When resawing, often the blade won't cut completely though the > thickness of the wood. If this is the case, you'll have to make two passes, > one > > through each thickness edge. This can only be done with the blade > guard removed. > > > > Use feather boards when the blade guard is removed. > > > > In any cutting operation where the blade guard must be removed > because the blade won't be cutting completely through the wood, > "featherboards" > > should be used. Whether rabbeting, dadoing or molding with a > special cutting head, featherboards keep the workpiece firmly > pressed against the fence and > > table. Featherboards can be clamped above and to the side of the > workpiece. The kerfed, leading edges of the featherboards exert > pressure on the workpiece > > until the cut is complete. > > > > Auxiliary Facing: In some cases you may want to attach wood > facing onto the rip fence, whenever the cutting edge comes close to > the fence, and > > you want to avoid the blade hitting the metal. Attach facing to > the fence when using a dado or molding head, or when ripping very > thin material. The auxiliary > > facing must be made of smooth, straight wood, about 3/4 inch > thick, cut to the same length as the fence and attached with wood screws. > > > > You can also attach wood facing to the miter gauge. When the > auxiliary facing is longer than the face of the miter gauge, it > provides additional > > support when cutting long pieces of stock. > > > > For very narrow rips, begin the cut using an auxiliary fence... > > > > ...and finish the cut with a push block. > > > > > > Saw It Safely > > > > Don't be one of those people who assume they were born a power > tool expert. Those people can get hurt. Read and understand the > owner's manual and labels > > affixed to the tool. Learn its applications, limitations and > potential hazards. > > > > * Dress appropriately when using a table saw. Don't wear loose > clothing or jewelry that can be caught in moving parts. Always wear > eye protection and wear > > hearing protection when working long intervals. Use a face mask > if the cutting operation is dusty and use a hair covering to protect long > hair. > > > > * Always disconnect the saw from its power source when it's not > in use, before servicing and when changing blades, bits, cutters, etc. > > > > * Always keep the guards in place, in good working order and in > proper adjustment and alignment. > > > > * Don't force the tool to do a job it wasn't designed for. For > example; don't use your table saw to cut tree limbs or logs. > > > > * Table saws should be bolted securely to a stand or workbench. > Use the table saw in a well lit area and on a level surface. And > always use auxiliary supports > > to cut long or heavy boards. > > > > * In addition, if there is any tendency for the table saw to tip > over or move during certain operations such as cutting long, heavy > boards, use an auxiliary > > support. > > > > * To avoid kickback, keep the blade and anti-kickback wings > sharp. Keep the rip fence parallel to the blade when in use. Avoid > cutting warped or twisted > > stock. > > > > * Use a Push Stick for ripping widths of 2 to 6 inches and an > auxiliary fence and Push Block for ripping widths narrower than 2 > inches. Don't release the > > workpiece until it has already moved past the blade. And never > "back up" (reverse feed) the workpiece while resawing (with guard > removed) because this > > could cause a kickback. > > > > > > > > The Latest and Greatest > > > > Bosch 4000 > > > > Bosch offers a real "Cadillac" of a table saw in its 4000 model. > The 10-inch Bosch 4000 features a table surface of 29 by 21-1/2 > inches, the largest in > > its class for easy handling of large stock. The 15-amp motor > features Constant Response Circuitry that monitors torque demand > and instantly delivers additional > > power to maintain constant speed under load. Plus, a "soft start" > feature allows quieter, smoother start-ups. The rip fence is also > top-notch, featuring > > patented "square-lock" technology that provides accuracy with > every cut. The 4000 also boasts a heavy-duty steel, folding > "Gravity Rise" saw stand that > > makes it easy to break down and set up for work. The stand comes > equipped with treaded pneumatic tires. The Bosch 4000 isn't cheap, > but it's worth every > > dime. Highly recommended for the serious table saw enhtusiast. Check out > > www.boschtools.com. > > > > Skil 3400 > > > > Skil's Model 3400 10-inch, 15-amp table saw is not as decked-out > in features as the Bosch 4000, but it still makes a reliable unit > for homeowner use and > > also costs considerably less. In addition to the die-cast miter > gauge and a rip fence with magnifying lens for reading > measurements, the saw features on-tool > > storage for the blade, wrenches cord and accessories. The table > has integrated carrying handles and soft grip controls. The Skil > model comes with a 28-tooth > > carbide blade and is also available with a saw stand. Visit > > www.skil.com. > > > > ********************************************************************** > > This message and its attachments may contain legally > > privileged or confidential information. If you are not the > > intended recipient, you must not disclose or use the > > information contained in it. If you have received this e-mail > > in error, please notify the sender immediately by return > > e-mail and delete the e-mail. > > > > Any content of this message and its attachments which > > does not relate to the official business of Eraring Energy > > must be taken not to have been sent or endorsed by > > Eraring Energy. No warranty is made that the e-mail or > > attachment(s) are free from computer virus or other defect. > > ********************************************************************** > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: >2/18/2007 4:35 PM John -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. 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