The symbols of the Masons are a square and a compass. you can, when things are "clean work" use the tip of the scribe to feel the lines on the best of the rulers. counting is a bear, I don't have that much patience. But uf you knew they were 16ths and you measured a piece and knew you needed 1/16 more you could do it for sure.
On Mon, 22 Oct 2007, Max Robinson wrote: > A combination square, which my dad called a try square, is very useful > around the shop especially for a blind worker. It is as every bit as > effective for transferring distances as a click ruler or a rotomatic. The > one I have had for many years was a little off square so I went to buy a new > one. I found that they come in ruler lengths of 6, 12, and 18 inches. I > left the store with all three. It has two parts, a thin metal ruler, and a > casting which has two machined surfaces, one at 90 degrees and the other at > 45 degrees to the ruler. The casting part also contains a bubble level and > a sharply pointed scribe is also stored in a hole. Neither of these is > likely to be very useful to a totally blind person but they are there > anyway. Although the lines were apparently etched into the surface of the > ruler, it would take some pretty sensitive fingers to read it by feel. You > could always get the exact measurement from one of the afore mentioned > rulers and use the square to transfer the distance to the work. OK, now > that you are convinced that you need a combination square you can get out > the one that you have had for years and start using it. When you loosen a > knurled nut that is in a cutout in the casting the ruler can be slid back > and forth. It can also be pulled or fall completely out. That is what this > message is about, how to put it back in. It's a piece of cake for a sighted > person but only a little more difficult for a blind one. The first step > is to remove the knurled nut. When you turn it the screw just turns inside > the casting and it never unscrews. > > 1. Stick the ruler into the slot it came out of and up against the screw. > You don't need to use a lot of force, just enough to keep the screw from > turning. > > Do the next step over a clean workbench or table. > > 2. loosen and remove the nut. There is a spring under it so be sure to > capture it so you don't lose it. Place the spring and nut in a shallow dish > to keep them from rolling away. > > 3. Remove the ruler from the slot and hold your hand under the casting > while turning it so the slot is down. The screw will slide out into your > hand, or fall on the floor if Murphy has anything to say about it. > > 4. Examine the screw. You will see how it holds the ruler in place. > > 5. Place the foot of the screw in the slot in the ruler so the screw is at > right angles to the ruler. > > 6. Holding the screw and ruler, slide the ruler into the slot on the side > of the casting so the screw goes into the hole where the slot gets wider. > > 7. Push the ruler all the way into the slot and the threaded end of the > screw should protrude from the place it came from. > > 8. Place the spring over the end of the screw and then thread the knurled > nut onto it. Snug it down so the ruler won't fall out again. > > That's all there is to it handy boys and handy girls. I've already posted > the instructions for using one of these squares to set a miter gauge to > exactly 90 degrees. I also use it to set the distance between the saw blade > and rip fence, and to set the position of a piece of wood for cross cutting > with the miter gauge. The uses are limited only by your imagination. > > Regards. > > Max. K 4 O D S. > > Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net > Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net > Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com > > To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >
