I will also ask about that.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dale Leavens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


No one has mentioned the anti-lock breaks? Why they should become a problem
under those circumstances I don't know but I do know that they do shimmy
when applied if not working correctly and in some models even when working
apparently correctly.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Kennedy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


>A long shot but I bought new tires once and had a bad vibration right
> afterwards.  When I got home I popped the cap off and found the problem
> right off.  The idiot put the lugs on backwards so the tapered end faced
> away from the wheel...
>
> Diagnosing by email is much harder.  By vibration we need to get a bit
> more
> specific.  A warped rotor doesn't vibrate at 25 to 40, it feels more like
> jerking.  A smooth run, a jerk or bump and a smooth run again.  The
> bumping
> or jerking gets slower obviously as you slow down.
>
> I could happen, especially if the rotors got turned too thin the last
> time.
> I've known some um well idiots is really too nice a word.  But I've known
> of
> people that read the specs on the brake lathe and think that is what the
> first cut should be.  If the lathe says it can cut 90 thousandths in one
> pass then by god that's what you have to do.  90 thousandths off any rotor
> will put it under the minimum.  If it is thin and slammed home with a tire
> gun they can warp fairly quickly.  Not a couple weeks I wouldn't think
> though.
>
> I have known the outer pad to be put on without either putting the anti
> vibration glue on, or not bending the tabs to keep the pad tightly in
> place.
> Those situations cause a vibration that is often loud as well. When the
> brakes are applied you hear sometimes a squealing or a humming type sound.
> That isn't nearly as dangerous as it is annoying.  But since it started
> after brake work, I'd take it back and see what they offer.  One thing you
> can do on your own is to take a wrench to the lugs and make sure they
> tightened them all.  1 left loose won't cause a serious problem, I have
> had
> to run a race car on 3 lugs on 1 wheel before.  But that isn't the
> brightest
> way to go.
>
> Take a torque wrench if you have one and 75 to 80 footpounds will keep the
> wheels on.  If you don't have a torque wrench, take a socket or something
> and make sure everything is tight.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Lenny McHugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "handyman-blind" <[email protected]>
> Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 6:43 PM
> Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys
>
>
>> We have a 2003 grand caravan sport all wheel drive. Two weeks ago for
>> inspection it needed breaks at the same time I upgraded the break fluid
>> to
>> dot 5.1 and also had the tires rotated.
>> Now about 45 mph when Karen applies the break she can feel a chatter or
>> vibration. When she first said it was shaking at that speed I thought she
>> lost a balancing weight. I now suspect rotors. Is there anything that can
>> cause a rotor go bad after about two weeks after installing new breaks?
>> The
>> vehicle has about 40,000 miles and the rotors were cut around 25,000
>> miles.
>> Got to get this thing fixed quickly, next week we are taking my grandson
>> to
>> Canada to see the falls.
>> Lenny
>>
>>
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