Hey there David!

It’s almost always the steam boiler element. You can check resistance across 
the terminals of the element (power off, wires removed), but this frequently 
fails to diagnose the element. It’s often the case, much like you describe, 
that the element doesn’t short until it’s hot, thus giving a false negative 
when cold. I suppose you could have the case off and once it heats/shorts, 
quickly power down and remove wires to test. If memory serves, “normal” would 
be in the low teens for ohms.

But I’d bet dollars to doughnuts it’s the steam element.

And yes, removal is a pain, but you can do it. Hardest part is securing the 
boiler in a vise without damaging it.

Best of luck!
Ben

> On Jul 10, 2024, at 02:56, David Bengtsson <duel...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hello espresso lovers,
> 
> My good old Brewtus II needs some attention.
> It turns on fine. Pump is working and I hear the refill of the boilers.
> 
> The temperature on the AKO display is not increasing much and after
> 3-4 minutes the machine trips my "Residual Current Device"
> 
> So I guess I need a new heating element. Do you guys think it is the
> steam boiler or the brew boiler that is broken?
> 
> I own a multimeter. How can I check the elements and figure out which
> one to change?
> 
> (I have seen previous conversations about how much force I need to
> remove the element, so I will be prepared with the heavy artillery...
> )
> 
> Blue Skies,
> /David
> 
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