What I've been doing for several years now is I fold the shield back
over the outer sheath and screw the connector down over the shield and
just solder the tip. Basically the same principle as crimping the
shield. This is a stronger connection than trying to solder the shield
in the holes and it will not allow the cable to twist loose like is
possible when soldering the holes. I know many will disagree with this
method, but I've never had one fail or cause me any issues.
There are several videos showing this method, but the best one is by
Steve Venner at ML&S This link starts where he is installing a PL-259
https://youtu.be/mC3deca6ve8?t=96
The compression fittings he shows after the standard PL-259 is another
good method, but the compression type connectors are not common in the USA
--jv
na5d
On 7/31/2020 10:50 AM, Gus Bernard via BVARC wrote:
I agree with Jonathan 100% but would add the following 2 points:
1. Quality sometimes matters. Solder quality isn't a big deal for a
PL259 connector, but may matter for other jobs. So, I use name brand
solder, because there's better assurance of quality. At a minimum, I
keep good quality 60/40 on the bench, because it's the most versatile
and easily available at a good price. I like Kester, Multicore and MG
Chemicals brands; and
2. Crimp, Don't Solder. I use a 100W Weller iron for PL259 shields
but, even with a monster iron, soldering PL259 shields correctly (so
they last) is harder than it seems. If you think this is ca-ca,
show-up to help setup one of our tri-club Field Days - one person sits
for hours JUST re-soldering or replacing coax cable ends - it's
unbelievable. As a Civil Air Patrol COML, I spend crazy amounts of
time fixing coax at every SAREX or deployment. The POINT is that
_many _people don't get it right, _much _of the time - not reliable,
which is especially not cool in EmComm! Crimped shields, on the other
hand, don't fail as often. Even if they fail, they're much easier to
replace.
PL259 crimp connectors are available for shield crimp only, or for
crimping both the shield _and_ the center conductor pin. I think it
is best to solder the center conductor, but _crimp the shield_. Crimp
tools are not cheap, but save SO MUCH time and hassle! One good place
to get decent quality crimp tools and connectors at a good price is
from Richard East, N5IAW. He often has tables at nearby Hamfests, and
has an eBay Store <https://www.ebay.com/str/n5iawrfcommunications>.
Some stuff he sells at Hamfests is not on his web store (like, real
Amphenol brand connectors) - just email him to ask. He's a good guy,
who gives great personal customer service.
73,
Gus KG5OFB
On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 3:18 AM Jonathan Guthrie via BVARC
<bvarc@bvarc.org <mailto:bvarc@bvarc.org>> wrote:
The best solder? It doesn't matter. I use some cheap stuff I
bought at Radio Shack in the 1980's. You can use lead-free, if
you want, but I don't personally have any that's not ultra fine so
getting enough solder in the joint is a problem.
What matters is the iron.
You need to use iron that's a honking big piece of metal. You
see, when you touch the iron to the connector, it acts like a big
heat sink, and the temperature of the iron drops below the
temperature of the solder. You have to wait for it to heat up
again, and the heat conducts into the center insulation, melting
it and ruining the coax. If you don't hold it on long enough to
melt the insulation, you don't get the connector hot enough to be
wetted by the solder. It'll kind of work because there's some
mechanical connection, but it's not really good.
Using a big iron makes it easy. I got one of those that is used
to solder stained glass, and it works all kinds of better for me
than anything else I've ever tried. Including my
temperature-controlled soldering station with the biggest tip I
can get for it.
On 7/30/20 6:12 PM, Martin Blaise via BVARC wrote:
Just curious what is the best solder you have used on pl259
connectors? I ran out and can’t remember exactly what kind it was.
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--
Jonathan Guthrie
ARS KA8KPN
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