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I second Phil's
advice.
I like SikaFlex 291-LOT for bedding things such as
stanchions that get "worked" alot. It's got great flexibility and moderate
adhesion. Good resistance to spilled gas and oil, teak cleaners,
etc.. see http://www.sika.ca/ind-bro-marine-selection_guide-ca-eng.pdf for
SikaFlex's guidelines. Also see http://www.sika.ca/ind-bro-marine-marine_brochure-ca-eng.pdf
Also, I like the one-part polysulfides (such as Boat
Life's "life Caulk" or 3M's 101). The stuff is time tested.
They've certainly proven dependable, and have been in use for at least
30-40 years.
SikaFlex 291-LOT doesn't turn yellow in the sun like
polysulfides.
Others have mentioned prepping - clean the surface of
old caulk, bevel out a "ring" on the top of the surface, make sure you get a
thick enough layer (3/32-1/8" or 3- 4 mm) so it can stretch when the
stanchoin gets yanked upon. You can use thin plastic shims at the
edges while the caulk dries.
Fair winds, Judy B -----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Phil Agur Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2006 12:09 PM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: Re-bedding stantions Hi Mike,
5200 is going to the dark side, never on a fiberglass boat. I went to change out my cockpit speakers just last week and found another bad application for 5200 by my dealer. I my actually destroy the aft lazarette covers before I’m done.
Boat Life Caulk of Sikaflex would be good. The factory uses silicone, which makes a good gasket but is a poor adhesive so I don’t care for it as much. It would be prefect for a no stress items like speakers or instruments that you know will need updating. After 11 years we’ve only seen one leak, so silicone isn’t all that bad in general.
BTW, the goal here is to use caulk to build a custom gasket no thinner anywhere than say a 1/16 of an inch. Bob mentioned finger tight until it sets but I’d go a step further by dry fitting and identifying the actual contact points. At these points I’d position the end of some tooth picks to hold up the item up off the deck a 1/16. You can use tape outside the joint area to keep them positioned.
Now when you do hand tight there will still be 1/16 of an inch of caulk at the thinnest spots. Caulk can be stretched more than 50% of it’s thickness before breaking the seal but if it’s paper thin or squeezed to nothing then the first time the pulpit is jarred the seal is broken at the thin spots.
Once the caulk is set pull out the tooth picks, fill the pinholes, and tighten.
Phil Agur s/v Wing Tip Commodore, Call Sign WCW3485 IC27/270A
www.catalina27.org Vessel Doc# 1039809 -----Original
Message-----
Hi list, I'm getting ready to put my pullprit and all deck stantions back on the boat after a long and painfull deck re-core, anyway is 5200 above/below what I want for re-bedding? or is there something better. Thanks in advance, Mike Andrews C-27 #1801 Runaground Sue. |
- RE: catalina27-talk: Re-bedding stantions Judith Blumhorst, DC
- catalina27-talk: RE: Interior set of cushions - ... Nederhood, David
- Re: catalina27-talk: RE: Interior set of cus... David Shugarts

