I made stainless steel plates, raked out the hull and filled the void with  
PC-10 (epoxy putty), then bedded the plate to the hull with a thin layer of  
PC-10 to spread the load evenly, then applied 3M's 5200 to the deck fitting,  
brought it to hand tight and let the 5200 cure completely.  Once cured, I  
hardened the fasteners from below so the bolts were not turned to break the 
5200  
bond.  I did this back in 1990 to all my thru deck fittings and have never  
experienced a leak.
 
Capt. David Hoyt
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 2/6/2008 1:24:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 
What I usually do is  make a teak or oak block (as thin as practical) to fit 
the curvature of the  local structure, and make a stainless steel or aluminum 
backup plate that has  the same mounting hole pattern as the top-side fitting 
and matches the trim of  the flat side of the wood filler block. 
 
Keith  Sneddon 

 
  
____________________________________
 
From:  [email protected]  
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Shaddock
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 1:12  PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: catalina27-talk: teak backup  plates
To amplify what  Keith pointed out—teak is actually quite low in compressive 
strength unless  the force is compressing the end grain (like in our 
compression posts).   For a bow cleat where it’s hidden in the locker anyway, 
better 
choices would  be marine plywood (epoxy-seal the edges for additional 
protection 
from  dampness), white oak, or black locust.  (Or lignum vitae or rosewood or 
 snakewood or greenheart or Indian laurel…) 
Dave  Sahddock 
 
 
From:  [email protected]  
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sneddon, Keith
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 11:15  AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or  1/2

If you use teak  back-up plates, to balance the crushing strength of the teak 
with the strength  of the mounting bolt, the washer/backup has to have a 
diameter of at least 4  times the bolt diameter. In other words, a decent 1/4” 
bolt would require a  washer diameter of an inch, or the washer would 
potentially 
crush the teak  before the bolt would fail.  
 
Keith  Sneddon 

 
  
____________________________________
 
From:  [email protected]  
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Maddox
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 3:17  PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or  1/2
Tom, 
I have a rode locker  in the bow (anchor lives on the pulpit).  There is a 
covered hawse pipe  into the locker, forward of the vee berth.  See photos  at: 
_http://www.ariasails.com/groundtackle.html_ 
(http://www.ariasails.com/groundtackle.html) 

The  solar vent you see is at the fore end of the v berth.  The backing plate 
 for the center cleat is 1/2" or 3/4" teak (don't remember), with the upper  
surface curved to match the deck curvature.  And it is much larger than  the 
cleat mounting area in order to spread the  load. 
The backing for the  existing bow cleats is aluminum plate, glassed into the 
underside of the deck  because there isn't a flat surface there (the original 
cleat holes are  drilled through the deck flange area). 
Chris 
-----Original  Message----- 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Feb 5, 2008 2:56 PM 
To:  [email protected]  
Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2 


Chris  ....  

Do you have the  anchor locker in the bow? Where did you mount the centered 
bow  cleat?  

Tom  
6219 Different  Drummer  




Chris  Maddox <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
Sent by:  [email protected]   
02/05/2008  12:50 PM       
Please  respond to
[email protected] 

To  
[email protected]     
cc  

Subject  
Re:  catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2 



David,   
I would be  hesitant to use 1/2" line - the added strength comes with lower 
stretch,  which can be important in a storm.  Line strength means nothing if 
your  cleats have been pulled out - which they can easily be (see notes  
below). 
  
For at least  older 27's (mine is a 1976), be aware that the bow and stern 
cleats are  likely installed without backing plates - mine had only fender 
washers, and  I think they were added afterwards.  I added a single centered 
bow  
cleat (for anchoring but also for secondary dock lines) with a robust  backing 
plate, and added backing plates to the existing bow and stern  cleats.  So I 
would stick with the 3/8" dock lines and beef up the  cleats.   
Chris   
Aria #2372 /  Pasadena, MD


-----Original Message-----  
From: David Techlin 
Sent: Feb 5, 2008 10:59 AM 
To:  [email protected]  
Subject: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2  
Listees,  

Along the lines  of IB V OB...what size docks lines do you  use, 1/2 " or 
3/8" ?  

I'm keeping GUSTY  in the water this winter, in Michigan, and have used a 
couple of 1/2"  lines for added security, just made me curious what lines other 
27 people  use ?  

Dave  Techlin  
GUSTY  
#1532  

 
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