Ah ... what a great idea to match a backing plate against a curve. I presume the epoxy putty will stand the compression? Guess it would ... should be as strong as the GRP.
I want to put a large center mounted cleat on the bow, but I have an '86 with an anchor/rode locker, so it has to be behind that, where the deck has some curve to it. Hmmm ... another thought. Anyone know if that's a plywood cored deck up there? Can I fasten a cleat straight through to a backing plate, or do I need to put a spacer in there to handle the compression? Tom 6219 Different Drummer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent by: [email protected] 02/06/2008 04:48 PM Please respond to [email protected] To [email protected] cc Subject [SPAM] Re: catalina27-talk: teak backup I made stainless steel plates, raked out the hull and filled the void with PC-10 (epoxy putty), then bedded the plate to the hull with a thin layer of PC-10 to spread the load evenly, then applied 3M's 5200 to the deck fitting, brought it to hand tight and let the 5200 cure completely. Once cured, I hardened the fasteners from below so the bolts were not turned to break the 5200 bond. I did this back in 1990 to all my thru deck fittings and have never experienced a leak. Capt. David Hoyt In a message dated 2/6/2008 1:24:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What I usually do is make a teak or oak block (as thin as practical) to fit the curvature of the local structure, and make a stainless steel or aluminum backup plate that has the same mounting hole pattern as the top-side fitting and matches the trim of the flat side of the wood filler block. Keith Sneddon From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Shaddock Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 1:12 PM To: [email protected] Subject: catalina27-talk: teak backup plates To amplify what Keith pointed out—teak is actually quite low in compressive strength unless the force is compressing the end grain (like in our compression posts). For a bow cleat where it’s hidden in the locker anyway, better choices would be marine plywood (epoxy-seal the edges for additional protection from dampness), white oak, or black locust. (Or lignum vitae or rosewood or snakewood or greenheart or Indian laurel…) Dave Sahddock From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sneddon, Keith Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 11:15 AM To: [email protected] Subject: RE: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2 If you use teak back-up plates, to balance the crushing strength of the teak with the strength of the mounting bolt, the washer/backup has to have a diameter of at least 4 times the bolt diameter. In other words, a decent 1/4” bolt would require a washer diameter of an inch, or the washer would potentially crush the teak before the bolt would fail. Keith Sneddon From: [email protected] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chris Maddox Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 3:17 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2 Tom, I have a rode locker in the bow (anchor lives on the pulpit). There is a covered hawse pipe into the locker, forward of the vee berth. See photos at: http://www.ariasails.com/groundtackle.html The solar vent you see is at the fore end of the v berth. The backing plate for the center cleat is 1/2" or 3/4" teak (don't remember), with the upper surface curved to match the deck curvature. And it is much larger than the cleat mounting area in order to spread the load. The backing for the existing bow cleats is aluminum plate, glassed into the underside of the deck because there isn't a flat surface there (the original cleat holes are drilled through the deck flange area). Chris -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Feb 5, 2008 2:56 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2 Chris .... Do you have the anchor locker in the bow? Where did you mount the centered bow cleat? Tom 6219 Different Drummer Chris Maddox <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent by: [email protected] 02/05/2008 12:50 PM Please respond to [email protected] To [email protected] cc Subject Re: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2 David, I would be hesitant to use 1/2" line - the added strength comes with lower stretch, which can be important in a storm. Line strength means nothing if your cleats have been pulled out - which they can easily be (see notes below). For at least older 27's (mine is a 1976), be aware that the bow and stern cleats are likely installed without backing plates - mine had only fender washers, and I think they were added afterwards. I added a single centered bow cleat (for anchoring but also for secondary dock lines) with a robust backing plate, and added backing plates to the existing bow and stern cleats. So I would stick with the 3/8" dock lines and beef up the cleats. Chris Aria #2372 / Pasadena, MD -----Original Message----- From: David Techlin Sent: Feb 5, 2008 10:59 AM To: [email protected] Subject: catalina27-talk: 3/8 or 1/2 Listees, Along the lines of IB V OB...what size docks lines do you use, 1/2 " or 3/8" ? I'm keeping GUSTY in the water this winter, in Michigan, and have used a couple of 1/2" lines for added security, just made me curious what lines other 27 people use ? Dave Techlin GUSTY #1532 Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
