What does it take to post-program the CPLD?  SMT package aside, if
it's possible to install some flying wires going off to a device
programmer, which programmers would be able to load the CPLD in the
first place?

The board has a programming header. So after soldering it's no problem. You need a JTAG programming adapter that can be used by the Xilinx tools (impact). I use this one: https://shop.trenz-electronic.de/en/24624-JTAG-HS2-Programming-Cable

Perhaps you can borrow one. The tools can be downloaded on the Xilinx website. Then you are also able to alter the code and make the ting do other stuff for you.

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