On 2/6/19 2:29 PM, Brent Hilpert via cctalk wrote: > (I take it you mean "now look at the -left- side".)
Well, you know, my *other* right... :) > However, looking at my 7970A, it appears you could separate the cast-Al > transport frame from the chassis box > by unscrewing the 4 exterior left-side hinge screws, as well as detaching all > the cabling between them involving > a wire harness and a dozen-or-so plugs. Swing the drive assembly out from the back cover--you'll note that the pivot points on the two hinges are about 1" away from the cover flange. You've got plenty of room to drill your mounting holes from the *rear* of that flange. You might even have enough clearance for a countersink--but that may not be necessary--the frame casting only extends in from the left about a half-inch--you may even clear some oval-headed screws or get away with some truss-head screws. Alternatively, could mill a slight relief in the casting to clear the heads. I think it's doable without removing the drive from the cover. > For loading concerns raised by Jay, in both cases (designed-for steel > bracket vs drilled flange) the weight of the drive ends up being > borne by 4 rack-screws on the left and 3 on the right. The difference > would be steel vs Al bearing down on the 4 screws on the left, and > some altered bending moments on the left side of the Al chassis box > around the flange, offhand I wouldn't think it would matter. I tend to agree--the force is mostly downward on the front of the drive. I suppose that you could reinforce the aluminum housing with some steel bar backing up the mounting flanges, but that seems like overkill to me. --Chuck