>>or maybe categories (dresses, denim, jewelry) (the advantage of this
would be fewer directories than designers)

You could also use some better balanced subdivision.
For instance, if you have some numerical Id nb, use the three last 
digits as the file name,
and the rest for the directory.
This way, when the directory has 1000 files, a new one is created, etc.

Use something that cannot be changed in your database, so that you do 
not have to move
the files when data is changed. Category would not be a good choice, 
since someone may
choose the wrong category first, then update the product.

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