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Here's how I built my first big block,
HOLLEY 850 RACE
HOLLEY STRIP DOMINATOR
ignition mallory comp 9000 with coil & MSD 6A
049's p&p/ valves "stk' PAW
305 COMP CAM
AUTOZONE hyd. lifters
rods springs retainers COMP.
roller tip rockers
CALIFORNIA DISCOUNT REBUILD KIT
SHORT BLK,
DIMPLE STK
STEEL CRANK POLISHED
FORGED 12:1 TRW'S closed chamber
I must say I spent about $2500.00 from oil pan to carb.
P. Hernandez
68 chevelle
previous 70 chevelle 396
"Michael Ishee"
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Chevelle-List]
Desktop Dyno 2000
velles.net
10/24/2001 04:21 PM
Please respond to
chevelle-list
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Where can this be purchased and how much does it cost?
Thanks
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Michael Pell
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 7:32 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Big block building questions?
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Josh, I concur with Tom's comments.
Although my research indicates the stock cast crank is good up to
600hp. However, a new and better crank is certainly good insurance.
Here's my components, and DesktopDyno2000 says 550hp, and a very long
and flat torque curve.
'73 casting 2 bolt block (454) bored .060
stock cast crank, turned .020
Melling high volume oil pump
Clevite77 bearings
Eagle SIR rods, floating pins
Silvo-lite hyperuetectic pistons, 10.2:1
'73 "049" oval port heads with 2.19 intake, 1.88 exhaust, with
unshrouding port work only
Valves are new SS, equivelant to Manley's severe duty
Crane roller rockers
Crane push rods
Crane Cams .653/.660 roller cam (#11-722-8) with matched Crane springs
Edelbrock Air-Gap intake
Barry Grant 850 double pumper
Edelbrock 110gph mechanical fuel pump
stock water pump
Cloyes true double roller timing chain, with cam button
Stock harmonic balancer, although a new one would be much better
Fel-Pro gaskets
rotating assembly balanced.
ARP head bolts, main bolts
I've always thought DesktopDyno was a bit optimistic, but it gives you a
baseline on which to compare changes.
All the engine builders I've talked to agree it should be around 550hp,
FWIW.
I chose to stick with the stock 6qt oil pan. We'll see how it goes.
What heads do you have now? The "049" and "781" (I think) are the
better flowing heads, and are supposed to flow as good as the new Merlin
oval port heads. I definately believe you should stick to the oval
ports, just make sure you don't have the small port size.
Be sure to get your clutch/pressure plate,and flywheel balanced also.
The ARP bolts will interfere with the headers, just need to gring the
flange a bit for clearance.
My total cost was around $3,100.00.
Hope that helps!
Good luck!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
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>
> Hey Josh
>
> Here's how I built my 454. Its out of a 73 Caprice, 2 bolt main
block,
> est 510 HP. I had it bored out .030, lined honed, decked, and hot
tanked,
> brass freeze plugs installed.
> A good rule of thumb that my speed shop guy told me was anything
above
> 500 HP go to forged crank and forged rods. I have an Eagle 4130 crank
and
> Eagle SIR rods. i would not get a used crank for the simple reason
that it
> needs to be cut and takes a rebuild out of the motor should something
happen
> to it. I currently have 11.33-1 CR (TRW LF2469 forged pistons 11.33-1
CR
> advertised with 100.9 cc heads) however my heads are a little larger
around
> 115 cc I believe after i measured them w/ moly rings. A good piston
for your
> application may be a TRW LF2399 which is 10.25-1 with 100.9 cc heads.
Go
> with the Clevitte 77 Rod and Main Bearings.
> I also used the ARP Rod, main, head bolts, as well as ARP oil pump
stud.
> WORD OF CAUTION WITH ARP. If you use an ARP oil pump stud your oil
pump may
> have to be machined so that it sits true on the rear main cap. I was
not
> aware of this when i built my 454, and the oil pump (Melling High
Volume) did
> now seat correctly causing it to suck air and detstroy the bearings.
It
> knocked as soon as i started it up. I ended up sending it to a
machine shop
> and having them build it. Almost wiped out the crank too.
> ARP head bolts have the tendency to get in the way of the headers.
I ran
> into this problem too. Especially with ARP bolts make sure you read
the
> directions on installation.
> If you plan on getting the rotating assembly balanced, have it
done as a
> rotating assembly, not by weighing the rods, a Fluidampr Balancer is
also a
> plus. The heads on mine have been ported and polished and fitted with
Manley
> Stainless Steel Valves, Crane Cams Valve Springs matched to the cam,
and Comp
> Cams Roller Rockers. Also has a Milodon 7 Quart deep sump Oil Pan,
Fed Mogul
> Double Roller TC, Performer RPM INtake, Holley 3310 carb.
> Another thing you may want to do is use plastigauge or another
method ( I
> can't think of it right now) to check the clearances of the rod and
main
> bearings, I think its around .035, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
>
> Tom
>
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