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try this site scroll down to the last one

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----- Original Message -----
From: "Josh Campbell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2001 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Desktop Dyno 2000


>
> Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
> We sell it at AutoZone, its I think $30 I cann't get over paying cash for
a
> program or I would end up buying it, not to mention I don't build very
many
> motors.  I'm pretty sure you can get it at Advance and other places and
> probably any of your computer places could get it, Jegs also sells it.
> Josh
>
>
> >From: Michael Pell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Desktop Dyno 2000
> >Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 20:19:06 -0500
> >
> >
> >Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> >------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >just do a search at yahoo for "Desktop dyno".  There are lots of places
> >that sell it.
> >
> >Going rate is around $40.00.
> >
> >
> >Summit and Jegs also sell it.
> >
> >Michael Ishee wrote:
> > >
> > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Where can this be purchased and how much does it cost?
> > > Thanks
> > > Michael
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Michael
Pell
> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 7:32 AM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Big block building questions?
> > >
> > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> > > ------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Josh, I concur with Tom's comments.
> > >
> > > Although my research indicates the stock cast crank is good up to
> > > 600hp.  However, a new and better crank is certainly good insurance.
> > >
> > > Here's my components, and DesktopDyno2000 says 550hp, and a very long
> > > and flat torque curve.
> > >
> > > '73 casting 2 bolt block (454) bored .060
> > > stock cast crank, turned .020
> > > Melling high volume oil pump
> > > Clevite77 bearings
> > > Eagle SIR rods, floating pins
> > > Silvo-lite hyperuetectic pistons, 10.2:1
> > > '73 "049" oval port heads with 2.19 intake, 1.88 exhaust, with
> > > unshrouding port work only
> > > Valves are new SS, equivelant to Manley's severe duty
> > > Crane roller rockers
> > > Crane push rods
> > > Crane Cams .653/.660 roller cam (#11-722-8) with matched Crane springs
> > > Edelbrock Air-Gap intake
> > > Barry Grant 850 double pumper
> > > Edelbrock 110gph mechanical fuel pump
> > > stock water pump
> > > Cloyes true double roller timing chain, with cam button
> > > Stock harmonic balancer, although a new one would be much better
> > > Fel-Pro gaskets
> > > rotating assembly balanced.
> > > ARP head bolts, main bolts
> > >
> > > I've always thought DesktopDyno was a bit optimistic, but it gives you
a
> > > baseline on which to compare changes.
> > > All the engine builders I've talked to agree it should be around
550hp,
> > > FWIW.
> > >
> > > I chose to stick with the stock 6qt oil pan.  We'll see how it goes.
> > >
> > > What heads do you have now?  The "049" and "781" (I think) are the
> > > better flowing heads, and are supposed to flow as good as the new
Merlin
> > > oval port heads.  I definately believe you should stick to the oval
> > > ports, just make sure you don't have the small port size.
> > >
> > > Be sure to get your clutch/pressure plate,and flywheel balanced also.
> > >
> > > The ARP bolts will interfere with the headers, just need to gring the
> > > flange a bit for clearance.
> > >
> > > My total cost was around $3,100.00.
> > >
> > > Hope that helps!
> > > Good luck!
> > >
> > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Replies to this message are sent to The Chevelle Mailing List
> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > Hey Josh
> > > >
> > > >     Here's how I built my 454.  Its out of a 73 Caprice, 2 bolt main
> > > block,
> > > > est 510 HP.  I had it bored out .030, lined honed, decked, and hot
> > > tanked,
> > > > brass freeze plugs installed.
> > > >     A good rule of thumb that my speed shop guy told me was anything
> > > above
> > > > 500 HP go to forged crank and forged rods.  I have an Eagle 4130
crank
> > > and
> > > > Eagle SIR rods.  i would not get a used crank for the simple reason
> > > that it
> > > > needs to be cut and takes a rebuild out of the motor should
something
> > > happen
> > > > to it.  I currently have 11.33-1 CR (TRW LF2469 forged pistons
11.33-1
> > > CR
> > > > advertised with 100.9 cc heads) however my heads are a little larger
> > > around
> > > > 115 cc I believe after i measured them w/ moly rings.  A good piston
> > > for your
> > > > application may be a TRW LF2399 which is 10.25-1 with 100.9 cc
heads.
> > > Go
> > > > with the Clevitte 77 Rod and Main Bearings.
> > > >     I also used the ARP Rod, main, head bolts, as well as ARP oil
pump
> > > stud.
> > > > WORD OF CAUTION WITH ARP.  If you use an ARP oil pump stud your oil
> > > pump may
> > > > have to be machined so that it sits true on the rear main cap.  I
was
> > > not
> > > > aware of this when i built my 454, and the oil pump (Melling High
> > > Volume) did
> > > > now seat correctly causing it to suck air and detstroy the bearings.
> > > It
> > > > knocked as soon as i started it up.  I ended up sending it to a
> > > machine shop
> > > > and having them build it.  Almost wiped out the crank too.
> > > >     ARP head bolts have the tendency to get in the way of the
headers.
> > > I ran
> > > > into this problem too.  Especially with ARP bolts make sure you read
> > > the
> > > > directions on installation.
> > > >     If you plan on getting the rotating assembly balanced, have it
> > > done as a
> > > > rotating assembly, not by weighing the rods, a Fluidampr Balancer is
> > > also a
> > > > plus.  The heads on mine have been ported and polished and fitted
with
> > > Manley
> > > > Stainless Steel Valves, Crane Cams Valve Springs matched to the cam,
> > > and Comp
> > > > Cams Roller Rockers.  Also has a Milodon 7 Quart deep sump Oil Pan,
> > > Fed Mogul
> > > > Double Roller TC, Performer RPM INtake, Holley 3310 carb.
> > > >     Another thing you may want to do is use plastigauge or another
> > > method ( I
> > > > can't think of it right now) to check the clearances of the rod and
> > > main
> > > > bearings, I think its around .035, someone correct me if I'm wrong.
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > > >
> > > > -----------------------------------------------------
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> > >
> > > --
> > > Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
> > > and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html
> > > Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold)
> > > Time Flies: "It's funny how you can watch a clock and time seems to
> > > stand still.  But turn away, and you have to measure time with a
> > > calendar rather than a clock."  mjp
> > >
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> >--
> >Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
> >and my For Sale page at http://www.ProStreetCar.com/classifieds.html
> >Team Chevelle membership #178 (Gold)
> >Time Flies: "It's funny how you can watch a clock and time seems to
> >stand still.  But turn away, and you have to measure time with a
> >calendar rather than a clock."  mjp
> >
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