Maybe somebody can help me figure this out.  I've got a '70 Chevelle with a 327 engine 
supposedly from a '67 Corvette
(based on block numbers).  The car is new to me so I've been doing lots of 
maintenance.  Yesterday was ignition day.
The car got new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, points, and condenser.  I did 
this not just because the parts were
old, but I was getting some knocking (even with a bottle of 104 in the tank), and the 
car was hard starting, like
'rumph' then stop while cranking.  I concluded this was probably the result of having 
too much advance, so it was my
plan to deal with that once everything was replaced.

After getting all the new parts installed, I disconnected the vacuum advance and 
plugged the tap at the carb, and set
the dwell at 30 degrees.  It moves less than 2 degrees from idle to high RPM, so it 
seems alright.  Now this is the
thing I can't explain.  I have an advance timing light (with the knob).  I checked the 
timing at curb idle with the
vacuum advance disabled, and found that it was running at 38 degrees! I definitely was 
on cylinder #1 (front driver's
side bank), and the wires are all hooked up according the 'normal' factory diagram. I 
was afraid that there wouldn't be
enough adjustment to get back to just a few degrees, buy we tried that, and got as low 
as 10 degrees, but the car would
hardly run.  Also, after you raced the engine, it wouldn't go right back to idle, but 
would hang up a high RPM and
eventually drop to idle.  To make a long story short, we set the timing back to where 
it was, and backed off 5 degrees.
This is probably near perfect as I now just get an occasional knock under hard 
acceleration, and the starting problem
has gone away.  I'm frustrated though because the 'science' doesn't seem to be 
working.  The plan was to verify about 4
to 6 degrees at curb idle, and with the springs off the centrifugal advance, at about 
2000 RPM (or so) check for 36-38
degrees of total advance.

The centrifugal advance parts look ok, and I operated them by hand.  Could they be 
bad?  Also, the harmonic balancer is
keyed to the crank shaft right?  It can't be put on wrong (or can it?).

Any input is appreciated.

Gary



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