Mine is a 6 inch rod with KB hypereutectic pistone and S/R torque big valve heads that were pocket ported. It snaps when you punch it! This things I learned was to buy the heads complete other than bare castings and get a good machineist. Mine put it together with a nitrided crank and the shortie pistons are in with .001 bore clearance.. That is nominal with the high silicon based pistons. hope this helps. mike f texas
--- Gene's General Restoration Parts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi, > I have always heard that big valves really only > help over 6000 RPM or so, > if this is a street engine and the old valves are > still servicable I would > stick to them. Spend the money in other areas. A > fast responding engine is > better on the street. > > My 383 is running the early 90's vette aluminum > heads with the stock valves > and it runs great. Of course compression on the high > end of 11:1 (keep that > quench hieght tight!) helps along with six inch > rods. The vette heads are > nice because they will take a regular intake, and > for my money a Torker 2 > and a dialed in Carter AFB is better than a dual > plane any day. > > I am planning my next 388 (.060 over block) around > 5.7 rods and vortec's > which will be small valved with .100 longer stems > for added lift capability. > It won't be as built as the aluminum head engine, so > if it puts out 400 HP I > will be happy with it, dual plane and all... > > Just my 2 cents... > > Gene > > > __________________________________ Discover Yahoo! Use Yahoo! to plan a weekend, have fun online and more. Check it out! http://discover.yahoo.com/