I snagged this from a forum, it's a bit long, but it should answer most of
your questions...
 
 
As many of you are aware, timing and vacuum advance is one of my favorite
subjects, as I was involved in the development of some of those systems in
my GM days and I understand it. Many people don't, as there has been very
little written about it anywhere that makes sense, and as a result, a lot of
folks are under the misunderstanding that vacuum advance somehow compromises
performance. Nothing could be further from the truth. I finally sat down the
other day and wrote up a primer on the subject, with the objective of
helping more folks to understand vacuum advance and how it works together
with initial timing and centrifugal advance to optimize all-around operation
and performance. I have this as a Word document if anyone wants it sent to
them - I've cut-and-pasted it here; it's long, but hopefully it's also
informative.

 

TIMING AND VACUUM ADVANCE 101

 

The most important concept to understand is that lean mixtures, such as at
idle and steady highway cruise, take longer to burn than rich mixtures; idle
in particular, as idle mixture is affected by exhaust gas dilution. This
requires that lean mixtures have "the fire lit" earlier in the compression
cycle (spark timing advanced), allowing more burn time so that peak cylinder
pressure is reached just after TDC for peak efficiency and reduced exhaust
gas temperature (wasted combustion energy). Rich mixtures, on the other
hand, burn faster than lean mixtures, so they need to have "the fire lit"
later in the compression cycle (spark timing retarded slightly) so maximum
cylinder pressure is still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the
lean mixture, for maximum efficiency.

 

The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing purely
as a function of engine rpm (irrespective of engine load or operating
conditions), with the amount of advance and the rate at which it comes in
determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam mechanism. The
amount of advance added by the distributor, combined with initial static
timing, is "total timing" (i.e., the 34-36 degrees at high rpm that most
SBC's like). Vacuum advance has absolutely nothing to do with total timing
or performance, as when the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum drops
essentially to zero, and the vacuum advance drops out entirely; it has no
part in the "total timing" equation.

 

At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire that
lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder pressure
at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can (connected to manifold
vacuum, not "ported" vacuum - more on that aberration later) is activated by
the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of spark advance, on top
of the initial static timing setting (i.e., if your static timing is at 10
degrees, at idle it's actually around 25 degrees with the vacuum advance
connected). The same thing occurs at steady-state highway cruise; the
mixture is lean, takes longer to burn, the load on the engine is low, the
manifold vacuum is high, so the vacuum advance is again deployed, and if you
had a timing light set up so you could see the balancer as you were going
down the highway, you'd see about 50 degrees advance (10 degrees initial,
20-25 degrees from the centrifugal advance, and 15 degrees from the vacuum
advance) at steady-state cruise (it only takes about 40 horsepower to cruise
at 50mph).

 

When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched (by the accelerator
pump, power valve, etc.), burns faster, doesn't need the additional spark
advance, and when the throttle plates open, manifold vacuum drops, and the
vacuum advance can returns to zero, retarding the spark timing back to what
is provided by the initial static timing plus the centrifugal advance
provided by the distributor at that engine rpm; the vacuum advance doesn't
come back into play until you back off the gas and manifold vacuum increases
again as you return to steady-state cruise, when the mixture again becomes
lean.

 

The key difference is that centrifugal advance (in the distributor autocam
via weights and springs) is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing changes it except
changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand, responds to engine load
and rapidly-changing operating conditions, providing the correct degree of
spark advance at any point in time based on engine load, to deal with both
lean and rich mixture conditions. By today's terms, this was a relatively
crude mechanical system, but it did a good job of optimizing engine
efficiency, throttle response, fuel economy, and idle cooling, with
absolutely ZERO effect on wide-open throttle performance, as vacuum advance
is inoperative under wide-open throttle conditions. In modern cars with
computerized engine controllers, all those sensors and the controller change
both mixture and spark timing 50 to 100 times per second, and we don't even
HAVE a distributor any more - it's all electronic.

 

Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration.
After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum,
along came emissions requirements, years before catalytic converter
technology had been developed, and all manner of crude band-aid systems were
developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the
exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the
vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle
plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the
throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant
the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its
optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static
timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees
AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due
to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the
"afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust
manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap,
and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the
exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle -
cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion
efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it.

 

If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported spark,
late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20 degrees of
advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the distributor, in order
to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing" at high rpm wide-open
throttle to get some of the performance back. The vacuum advance still
worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean mixture = low emissions), but it
was inoperative at idle, which caused all manner of problems - "ported
vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and
nothing more.

 

What about the Harry high-school non-vacuum advance polished billet
"whiz-bang" distributors you see in the Summit and Jeg's catalogs? They're
JUNK on a street-driven car, but some people keep buying them because
they're "race car" parts, so they must be "good for my car" - they're NOT.
"Race cars" run at wide-open throttle, rich mixture, full load, and high rpm
all the time, so they don't need a system (vacuum advance) to deal with the
full range of driving conditions encountered in street operation. Anyone
driving a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is
sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel
economy, probably because they don't understand what vacuum advance is, how
it works, and what it's for - there are lots of long-time experienced
"mechanics" who don't understand the principles and operation of vacuum
advance either, so they're not alone.

 

Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and modified
engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have relatively low
manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans aren't
fully-deployed until they see about 15" Hg. Manifold vacuum, so those cans
don't work very well on a modified engine; with less than 15" Hg. at a rough
idle, the stock can will "dither" in and out in response to the
rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying the amount of vacuum
advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified engines with more cam that
generate less than 15" Hg. of vacuum at idle need a vacuum advance can
that's fully-deployed at least 1", preferably 2" of vacuum less than idle
vacuum level so idle advance is solid and stable; the Echlin #VC-1810
advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides the same amount of advance as the
stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-deployed at only 8" of vacuum, so there
is no variation in idle timing even with a stout cam.

 

For peak engine performance, drivability, idle, cooling and efficiency in a
street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold
vacuum. Absolutely. Positively. Don't ask Summit or Jeg's about it - they
don't understand it, they're on commission, and they want to sell "race car"
parts.

 


 
 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: John  <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> & Chris 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:Chevelle-list@chevelles.net>  
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 3:54 PM
Subject: Vacuum advance

Is it better to hook the vacuum line from the distributor advance to the
timed port or the steady vacuum port on the carb..???...My friend and I are
having a discussion on that and either one of us are completely sure..Just
wanting some other input..
Thanx..
John Palmer
66 Malibu
327 4 speed

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