There's a place in Halifax that sells them, under 200 I think.

On 2012-11-16, at 12:31 PM, "Robert Abbott" 
<robertabb...@eastlink.ca<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> wrote:

Dennis:

I am in the process of replacing the SS wet exhaust muffler with a Vernalift 
and, since I am working in the small space, was considering replacing the whole 
mixing elbow assembly by removing the piece that bolts to the exhaust manifold. 
 First, I will remove the 2" hose from the actual mixing elbow and try to look 
up inside to see the condition, if there is significant carbon buildup.  
Locally, this assembly will cost approx. $533 plus 15% tax.

Below is something I recently read on a Yanmar site....might be helpful:

5. Carbon buildup
The typical diesel engine usage by a sailboat owner is about the worst you can 
ask for. By typical I mean start her up, take her out to the first buoy, raise 
the sails and shut off that noisemaker. Same procedure in reverse on the way 
home. Also many hours of battery charging at medium speed and practically no 
load by a cruising sailor is hard on the engine. The Yanmar GM series engines 
are classified as a hi-revving, high compression engine. The max RPM is 3500 
and the long term RPM is 3000. The bottom line is that the typical sailboat 
owner abuses the engine, which leads to carbon buildup in the cylinders, 
injectors and mixing elbow. In other words the diesel engine is happiest at 
high rpm under high load.
What is the poor sailor to do? First of all, warm up the engine at least 10 
minutes at the dock before leaving. Once under way, run her fast for as long as 
possible. Fast means 2500-3000 rpm. This will to some extent reduce carbon 
buildup. Unlike gasoline engines, you cannot blow out carbon buildup by 
extended hi-revving of the engine. Similarly once the engine is nice and hot, 
you need to idle her for 5-10 minutes so she can cool off before shutting her 
down. If for whatever reason you came chugging home at 1700 rpm, rev her up to 
3000 rpm for a minute or so before going to idle for the cooldown period.
If there is carbon buildup, it will be evident by rough idling. Take your 
injectors out and have them tested for spray pattern and injection pressure by 
a diesel shop. New injection nozzles are not as expensive as you think (about 
USD $60 each). The Yanmar manual also recommends inspecting the mixing elbow 
for carbon buildup every 300 hours. Just pull the exhaust tube off and look 
inside with a shaving mirror and flashlight. If the passage is more than 30% 
blocked, you need to remove the elbow and chip the carbon  out with a 
screwdriver or old chisel.
In my case I also got carbon buildup as a result of timing misalignment. The 
misalignment was caused by at least 2 “diesel gurus”, who re-installed the 
injection pump after pulling the gear case cover . Injection timing is 
controlled by brass shims between the pump and the gear case cover. INSIST on a 
timing check every time the injection pump is re-installed.

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2012/11/16 11:57 AM, Dennis C. wrote:
I just cleaned the exhaust elbow on a Yanmar 2GM on a 29 MK? for a client for 
the second time in 3-4 years.  I have other friends with Yanmars who have never 
had to clean the elbow.

This 29 rarely motors longer than from the slip to the harbor entrance and 
back.  The other boats sometimes motor long distances.

I am just curious as to the root cause for the pluggage.  Is it usage?  Is it 
the model?

For those listers that have frequent mix elbow pluggage, how do you use your 
Yanmar?  Which Yanmar do you have?  Do you motor for long periods or just to 
the harbor entrance and back?  Could frequent short trips hasten pluggage?  
Does long periods of motoring prevent pluggage?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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