Pat

 

You probably already know, but the fuse needs to be as close to the battery
as possible.it is protecting the wire to the pump, not the pump itself

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pat
Nevitt
Sent: December 4, 2012 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35/3 bilge pump

 

Fred,

Yes, I knew the fuze was required.  The float switch requires a 3 amp fuze,
which is what I have used.  I have tried bumping it to a 4 amp fuze on two
occasions.  Yes, also equally dangerous.  The fuze still blows.  Looks to me
like I need a new pump and wiring.

Pat




On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 10:08 PM, Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
wrote:

Absolutely DO NOT wire ANYTHING to the battery without the properly-sized
fuse (or other over-current protection device) in the line, as close to the
battery as possible!!!  Unless you want your boat to burn to the waterline
someday.  This is especially true of anything with a motor in it, like a
bilge pump.  If anything jams the pump and you don't have a fuse, it'll just
sit there and heat up until it either melts everything in the pump case or
catches fire, whichever comes first.

 

Pat -- check the rating of the inline breaker, and then check what the pump
manufacturer specs for that pump.  This (or substandard wiring, or a bad
inline breaker) could be the cause of the situation.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 

(formerly ABYC-certified in marine electrical & electronics)

 

Pat,

 

The switch should be hard wired to the battery w/o a fuse??

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Dec 3, 2012 at 5:05 PM, Pat Nevitt <pnev...@gmail.com> wrote:

Looks like a great solution, but at 8 3/4 inches long it is too long for the
sump in my 29-2.  I have had a nagging problem with my float switch for a
while.  The main bilge pump works fine when switched on from the breaker
panel.  When the water level reaches the float switch, it will activate the
pump for the first 2-5 times and then the in line circuit breaker for the
float switch pops.  So, if it rains hard, I have to go to the boat (an hour
and 15 away) and manually pump the bilge.  I have replaced the float switch
3 times and get the same results.


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