Rick,
I'd like to contact you to discuss the Harken furler but am not sure
how to do that.
Jack Downey (dc...@sover.net)
-----Original Message-----
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2013 8:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 90, Issue 55
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Disconnecting forestay to troubleshoot furler (Stevan Plavsa)
2. Re: Harken furler for sale cheap (Dennis C.)
3. Re: Harken furler for sale cheap (Rick Brass)
4. Re: Rudder post sqeak - solved (Blair Clark)
5. Re: Rudder post sqeak - solved (Jim Reinardy)
6. Re: 1981 C&C 30 MK1 engine re-power help (Curtis)
7. MORE QUESTIONS ON EDSON RUDDER INSTALL (Alex Giannelia)
8. Re: 1981 C&C 30 MK1 engine re-power help (Russ & Melody)
9. Re: Rudder post sqeak - solved (Blair Clark)
10. Re: MORE QUESTIONS ON EDSON RUDDER INSTALL (Ken Heaton)
11. Re: MORE QUESTIONS ON EDSON RUDDER INSTALL (Bill Connon)
12. Wilcox-Crittenden (now Thetford) HeadMate head (Robert Abbott)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 18:58:37 -0400
From: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Disconnecting forestay to troubleshoot furler
Message-ID: <56d53295-6d71-4f2f-9acf-bc3ad7d48...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
You guys are awesome, thanks for all the replies!
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On 2013-07-16, at 5:50 PM, Graham Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
> I'm assuming the 32 is a keel stepped mast, as the 35-3 is. In which case
- don't stress about disconnecting the forestay. Absolutely use a halyard
in place of it, with lots of tension, but it will stay up. I swapped out my
forestay and furler with the mast up, no problems. I did loosen the
backstay but did not play with the shrouds.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2013-07-16 2:26 PM, Stevan Plavsa wrote:
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I have an ultrafurl 500, no doubt many C&Cs of this vintage have the
same. I am having some trouble with it (sticking) and Heider from Ultrafurl
(I believe he's the guy that designed these things) sent along the
installation instructions as a guide on how to disassemble for a look. Well,
it seems I can get the drum disconnected and raised up the forestay without
disconnecting the forestay but if I want to remove it for a clean I will
have to disconnect and use a halyard for backup. I've done this with the
shrouds but there are two of those! I have two headsail halyards so I'm
thinking to use both, attached to either the stem fitting or the toe rail
and then tensioned pretty tight. Should I be loosening the tension on the
rest of the rig when I do this?
>>
>> Any tips or warnings?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 17:25:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
Message-ID:
<1374020709.82466.yahoomail...@web121902.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
It's more dependent on wire size and pin size than boat length.? Need to
verify those dimensions.? You'll also need a new forestay.
I suggest you verify the Mark version and download the installation
instructions.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
>________________________________
> From: Ronald B. Frerker <rbfrer...@yahoo.com>
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:22 PM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
>
>
>
>I"m guessing that Harken furler wouldn't be able to be converted to fit a
30, correct???
>Ron
>Wild Cheri
>STL
>
>
>
>
>
>________________________________
> From: Dennis C. <capt...@yahoo.com>
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:57 AM
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
>
>
>
>You should be.? A new Harken Unit 1 Mk IV sells for over $2300.
>
>Dennis C.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>________________________________
>> From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
>>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:45 AM
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
>>
>>
>>I don't even really need it and I am pretty tempted at $400.
>>
>>Joe Della Barba
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>Hoyt, Mike
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:19 AM
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
>>
>>Rick
>>
>>Is worth a lot more than? $500 if all parts in place and in like new
condition.? I sold a 10 year old Harken 00 for $750 last year and the furler
for a 38 ft masthead boat is considerably more furler than that.
>>Do your friend a favour and sell it for $1000 since it
costs a lot more than that new
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>>Rick Brass
>>Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 12:11 AM
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
>>
>>The talk about Ultrafurl and Harken furlers on the list reminded me of
something I'd been asked to do:
>>
>>A friend of mine had a Catalina 38 with an old Hood furler for which
>>parts were no longer available. He bought himself a Harken furler
>>(model
>>unknown)
>>with 50+ feet of luff extrusion to install on his boat, and then the boat
was totaled in Hurricane Irene a couple of years ago.
>>
>>He still has the furler in the overhead of his garage, and asked if I
>>know anyone who might want
to buy the furler. I believe he only wants $400 or
>>$500
for it. The extrusions are in 6 foot sections, so the furler should be
shippable by UPS at a fairly reasonable cost.
>>
>>If anyone is interested in talking to my friend, please let me know off
list and I will put you in contact with each other.
>>
>>
>>Rick Brass
>>Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>_______________________________________________
>>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 20:53:01 -0400
From: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
To: "'Ronald B. Frerker'" <rbfrer...@yahoo.com>,
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
Message-ID: <022b01ce8287$fd1b8c80$f752a580$@net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
My guess is that a 30 uses a smaller diameter headstay than a 38 - but then
my C&C 25 uses a larger diameter wire for headstay and shrouds than a
friends Hunter 33, so your guess is as good as mine. If your wire is smaller
than the diameter for which the existing bearing strips are intended, you
should buy new bearing strips.
The furler may be a little heavier duty that what Harken currently
recommends for a 30 ft boat, but it should work fine.
You would obviously not need to use all 50+ ft of the available luff
extrusions.
Rick
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker
Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 4:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Harken furler for sale cheap
I"m guessing that Harken furler wouldn't be able to be converted to fit a
30, correct???
Ron
Wild Cheri
STL
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 23:00:50 -0300
From: Blair Clark <blairalcl...@hotmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak - solved
Message-ID: <blu178-w4980d3a85f753adb4918d4c1...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
I sent you a picture and explanation from my work email...I hope it helps
please let me know.
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: firewa...@reinardy.us
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:35:55 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; strig...@eastlink.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak - solved
Blair,
Now you are giving me some new information. Can you describe where the
fitting is? I did not see it on my initial inspection.
Jim
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 16, 2013, at 7:17 AM, "Blair Clark" <blairalcl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Thank you so much.
After much advice I went back for further inspection and found a grease
nipple on the through hull bearing joint. I have ordered marine grease and
will complete job Thursday.
In the cooler weather today and the other lubrication perfromed there was a
markable difference noted but the greasing of that part should be an annual
ritual as noted by another C&C Mark II owner.
Now that I know it exists I will make it so :)
Thanks again.
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: blairalcl...@hotmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; strig...@eastlink.ca
Subject: RE: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 18:58:43 -0300
Hi,
I have a1988 C&C 30 MK II with edson pedestal and steering out of DYC in
dartmouth NS.
The steering of Incognito has developed a major sqeak when turning the wheel
and it is stiff to turn. This Problem was first noticed when the wheel
seemed stiffer than usual after launch. Then it seemed to be intermittent
but today with heat is very stiff and loud..
First I thought it may be clutch on Raymarine wheel pilot but now I believe
that I have narrowed it to either in the D 25 edson drive wheel or where the
rudder post shaft enters the emergency tiller collar.
I thought about taking the screws holding the outer collar of the emergency
tille on the floor of the cockpit before the walk through transor to see if
I could lubricate but chickened out as I really do not know what taking
those screws out would lead to in the water.
I have oiled the wire cable coming from base of pedestal to sheaves and then
aft to drive wheel and the wheel runs quiter but the squeak is still severe.
Please can someoen give me direction as to what to lubricate and how and
whether this can be all done safely in the water.
Thanks
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the
C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the
C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 21:03:31 -0500
From: Jim Reinardy <firewa...@reinardy.us>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak - solved
Message-ID: <bay402-eas17436e04d14de2fb25cc9fa1...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Blair,
Picture received, thanks! I will check it out next time I am down at the
boat and let you know what I find.
Regards,
Jim
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 16, 2013, at 9:01 PM, "Blair Clark" <blairalcl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I sent you a picture and explanation from my work email...I hope it helps
please let me know.
>
> Blair Clark 902-423-4651
>
> From: firewa...@reinardy.us
> Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:35:55 -0500
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; strig...@eastlink.ca
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak - solved
>
> Blair,
>
> Now you are giving me some new information. Can you describe where the
fitting is? I did not see it on my initial inspection.
>
> Jim
> C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 16, 2013, at 7:17 AM, "Blair Clark" <blairalcl...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Thank you so much.
>
> After much advice I went back for further inspection and found a grease
nipple on the through hull bearing joint. I have ordered marine grease and
will complete job Thursday.
>
> In the cooler weather today and the other lubrication perfromed there was
a markable difference noted but the greasing of that part should be an
annual ritual as noted by another C&C Mark II owner.
>
> Now that I know it exists I will make it so :)
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Blair Clark 902-423-4651
>
> From: blairalcl...@hotmail.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; strig...@eastlink.ca
> Subject: RE: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak
> Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 18:58:43 -0300
>
> Hi,
>
> I have a1988 C&C 30 MK II with edson pedestal and steering out of DYC in
dartmouth NS.
>
> The steering of Incognito has developed a major sqeak when turning the
wheel and it is stiff to turn. This Problem was first noticed when the wheel
seemed stiffer than usual after launch. Then it seemed to be intermittent
but today with heat is very stiff and loud..
>
> First I thought it may be clutch on Raymarine wheel pilot but now I
believe that I have narrowed it to either in the D 25 edson drive wheel or
where the rudder post shaft enters the emergency tiller collar.
>
> I thought about taking the screws holding the outer collar of the
emergency tille on the floor of the cockpit before the walk through transor
to see if I could lubricate but chickened out as I really do not know what
taking those screws out would lead to in the water.
>
> I have oiled the wire cable coming from base of pedestal to sheaves and
then aft to drive wheel and the wheel runs quiter but the squeak is still
severe.
>
> Please can someoen give me direction as to what to lubricate and how and
whether this can be all done safely in the water.
>
> Thanks
>
> Blair Clark 902-423-4651
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
> _______________________________________________ This List is provided
> by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 22:10:20 -0400
From: Curtis <cpt.b...@gmail.com>
To: Frank <n...@comcast.net>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 30 MK1 engine re-power help
Message-ID:
<CALf-bNQ=hc0qgs6eaiv45cf7qnxzfbon16+5is5-nmwms45...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
I say out with the old and in with the new...
I have struggled on this decision way too long. Given, the age on this boat.
Given the fact the PO left sea water in the block with no anodes for at
least 4 years while is sat on the hook unattended, Given the fact, I can
find no record of maintenance on the boat, I will assume that the boats
engine is in the throws of giving up the ghost because of lack of care and
maintenance.
I will record the whole process, from start to finish. Cost in time, parts
and money. I will show the process and I will complete this DYI project with
ingenuity. I will ask and beg as needed for help as needed; it is my goal to
complete this project under $5,000 dollars.
Below is the old engine, a 1979 built Yanmar 2GM-13 3400 RPM engine with no
telling how many hours as there is no hour meter. I have installed one now.
I have purchased a mid to late 1980?s 2gm20F 16 Hp at 3400 RPMs.
Step one will be to check the new ?to me? engine from e-Bay over real good
to fix or repair anything it may need to be useable, mounts, hoses, harness,
senders stuff like this.
Then I will pull the wiring harness and old Yanmar gauge / start panel. Next
the water lines and thru-hulls taken off and blocked off.
I will then begin the process of pulling the engine. I have the idea that I
can use the main halyard to pull it out. I will temporality mount a sheave
on the boom to help hold the halyard in place. I disconnect the shaft
coupling and the motor mounts wha-la. Ease it out and swing the boom over to
the dock and lower it on a cart. Then I will do as Mark suggested and clean
the whole compartment and install all new thru hoses all new water lines. I
will then install LED?s and clean and paint with new white paint.
I will keep you posted on the progress. I should have the engine by the
weekend.
If there is any advice you think I could use please feel free. I have never
done this and could use all the help I can get.
Here is the old eng ? Notice the pitting in the block and head? and the new?
Thanks again
Thread: Engine swap will it work? Reply to Thread
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-wo
rk.html#post1060246
On 7/16/13, Frank <n...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Curtis,
>
> About five years ago I rebuilt a 2QM from the ground up for a friend.
> It was raw water cooled. Absolutely no corrosion.
>
> I have a 3QM30 raw water cooled that was in salt water for 30 years
> and although I have not had the head or pan off I have had about
> everything else
>
> apart on it. I haven't found any corrosion in the engine. I did find
> salt
>
> deposits in the exhaust system probably because the prior owner ran
> the engine hot at some point in time. I found both water thermostats
> had been removed. I replaced the thermostats and removed the salt
> deposits and have
>
> had no problems with the engine for over 800 hours.
>
> If I were going to replace a QM engine I certainly would not replace
> it with
>
> another QM engine.
>
> I did have the transmission come apart from the engine but that is
> another story.
>
> Frank Noragon
> S/V Cool Change
> C&C LF38, S/N 001
> Rose City Yacht Club
> Portland, Oregon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curtis
> Sent: Tuesday, July 16, 2013 7:45 AM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 30 MK1 engine re-power help
>
> O.K I know, I know.
> I was so proud to get the East Coast Lady for a song... Now It looks
> like she needs a new power plant. If the compression test today shows
> her to have low compression I will swap the engine out my self.
> I have one question?
> can I swap the 2GM-13 3400 rpm engine "RAW water cooled"
> With a 2GM20F 16HP fresh water cooled engine?
> Is it the same size? Are the engine mounts the same? Does it still
> draw raw water thru and out the back to cool the exchanger?
> Its a running take out with the transmission.
> Oh one other question, any way to find out the age on the engine I
> will buy? SN# is in the 12,000s Thanks for your help.
>
> Even with a repower I will still be below 7,000 on the boat. She's a
> great little boat.
>
>
> --
> ?The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
> change; the realist adjusts the sails.?
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
--
?The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to
change; the realist adjusts the sails.?
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 23:37:52 -0400
From: Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List MORE QUESTIONS ON EDSON RUDDER INSTALL
Message-ID:
<1820d770a1e128438825b476052dffb0010bd4b75...@vmbx111.ihostexchange.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I need to check my install again, but Edson refers to a stuffing box at the
top of the rudder tube. Is this standard on C&C's from that era?
ALEX GIANNELIA
CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
Toronto Ontario
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 21:36:37 -0700
From: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 30 MK1 engine re-power help
Message-ID:
<mailman.367.1374063915.11136.cnc-list_cnc-list....@cnc-list.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
Hi Curtis,
I say, "Good on you."
My reservation is your estimate on this
project... you should be able to snag an engine
like that on eBay for $1500 tops!... with a pedigree.
With a bit more careful procurement of exhaust
hose, valves, fuel hose, traps and such for
another boat token or so, cut your project estimate in half. Whatta ya
think?
BTW. That block pitting on your Yanmar is
nothing. If it's a running take-out in that shape
then that's a $1000 engine where I live.
Does it smoke black under load? Hard to start?
Can't make hull speed? Overheat?
Have you considered an acid treat and new anodes?
Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
At 07:10 PM 16/07/2013, you wrote:
>I say out with the old and in with the new...
>I have struggled on this decision way too long. Given, the age on this
>boat. Given the fact the PO left sea water in the block with no anodes
>for at least 4 years while is sat on the hook unattended, Given the
>fact, I can find no record of maintenance on the boat, I will assume
>that the boats engine is in the throws of giving up the ghost because
>of lack of care and maintenance.
>I will record the whole process, from start to finish. Cost in time,
>parts and money. I will show the process and I will complete this DYI
>project with ingenuity. I will ask and beg as needed for help as
>needed; it is my goal to complete this project under $5,000 dollars.
>Below is the old engine, a 1979 built Yanmar 2GM-13 3400 RPM engine
>with no telling how many hours as there is no hour meter. I have
>installed one now.
>I have purchased a mid to late 1980?s 2gm20F 16 Hp at 3400 RPMs.
>Step one will be to check the new ?to me? engine from e-Bay over real
>good to fix or repair anything it may need to be useable, mounts,
>hoses, harness, senders stuff like this.
>Then I will pull the wiring harness and old Yanmar gauge / start
>panel. Next the water lines and thru-hulls taken off and blocked off.
>I will then begin the process of pulling the engine. I have the idea
>that I can use the main halyard to pull it out. I will temporality
>mount a sheave on the boom to help hold the halyard in place. I
>disconnect the shaft coupling and the motor mounts wha-la. Ease it out
>and swing the boom over to the dock and lower it on a cart. Then I
>will do as Mark suggested and clean the whole compartment and install
>all new thru hoses all new water lines. I will then install LED?s and
>clean and paint with new white paint.
>I will keep you posted on the progress. I should
>have the engine by the weekend.
>If there is any advice you think I could use please feel free. I have
>never done this and could use all the help I can get.
>Here is the old eng ? Notice the pitting in the block and head? and the
new?
>Thanks again
>Thread: Engine swap will it work? Reply to Thread
>http://www.sailnet.com/forums/diesel-engine-forum/101423-engine-swap-will-w
ork.html#post1060246
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 07:08:09 -0300
From: Blair Clark <blairalcl...@hotmail.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak - solved
Message-ID: <blu178-w16b51c04378694a783ae4c1...@phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hi
Fyi I have a fodness for Wisconsin. I spent two years working in Arcadia WI
home of Ashsley Furniture converting a dairy plant to a micro encapsulated
fish oil powder plant. The people treated us great and it was beautiful
country. Big White Tail Deer.
Good luck.
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: firewa...@reinardy.us
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 21:03:31 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak - solved
Blair,
Picture received, thanks! I will check it out next time I am down at the
boat and let you know what I find.
Regards,
Jim
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 16, 2013, at 9:01 PM, "Blair Clark" <blairalcl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
I sent you a picture and explanation from my work email...I hope it helps
please let me know.
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: firewa...@reinardy.us
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:35:55 -0500
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; strig...@eastlink.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak - solved
Blair,
Now you are giving me some new information. Can you describe where the
fitting is? I did not see it on my initial inspection.
Jim
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
Sent from my iPad
On Jul 16, 2013, at 7:17 AM, "Blair Clark" <blairalcl...@hotmail.com> wrote:
Thank you so much.
After much advice I went back for further inspection and found a grease
nipple on the through hull bearing joint. I have ordered marine grease and
will complete job Thursday.
In the cooler weather today and the other lubrication perfromed there was a
markable difference noted but the greasing of that part should be an annual
ritual as noted by another C&C Mark II owner.
Now that I know it exists I will make it so :)
Thanks again.
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
From: blairalcl...@hotmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; strig...@eastlink.ca
Subject: RE: Stus-List Rudder post sqeak
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2013 18:58:43 -0300
Hi,
I have a1988 C&C 30 MK II with edson pedestal and steering out of DYC in
dartmouth NS.
The steering of Incognito has developed a major sqeak when turning the wheel
and it is stiff to turn. This Problem was first noticed when the wheel
seemed stiffer than usual after launch. Then it seemed to be intermittent
but today with heat is very stiff and loud..
First I thought it may be clutch on Raymarine wheel pilot but now I believe
that I have narrowed it to either in the D 25 edson drive wheel or where the
rudder post shaft enters the emergency tiller collar.
I thought about taking the screws holding the outer collar of the emergency
tille on the floor of the cockpit before the walk through transor to see if
I could lubricate but chickened out as I really do not know what taking
those screws out would lead to in the water.
I have oiled the wire cable coming from base of pedestal to sheaves and then
aft to drive wheel and the wheel runs quiter but the squeak is still severe.
Please can someoen give me direction as to what to lubricate and how and
whether this can be all done safely in the water.
Thanks
Blair Clark 902-423-4651
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 07:26:37 -0300
From: Ken Heaton <kenhea...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List MORE QUESTIONS ON EDSON RUDDER INSTALL
Message-ID:
<caabfp6rsyngdo-hf9gr2aq7wd-rkho4ksdzjtgykoztg3j-...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
The 35-1 I race on has no stuffing box. The top of the tube has a plastic
washer sitting on it with a stainless steel collar locked to the shaft just
above it to keep the rudder from dropping out of the boat. Just above that
is the steering quadrant.
In this photo the quadrant has been removed:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-smBuFS_gdZ0/UeZwhWjmAcI/AAAAAAAAM3E/e1coG
51iNLI/w1364-h1023-no/C%2526C35Mk1+Bolts.jpg
We never did find out what the bolts in the photo were for.
The 35-2 is the same hull with some modifications but sits a couple of
inches lower in the water so perhaps may have a stuffing box?
Ken H.
On 17 July 2013 00:37, Alex Giannelia <a...@airsensing.com> wrote:
> I need to check my install again, but Edson refers to a stuffing box at
> the top of the rudder tube. Is this standard on C&C's from that era?
>
> ALEX GIANNELIA
>
> CC 35-II (1974) WILL BE RENAMED
> ON THE HARD SINCE NOV. 2006
> Toronto Ontario
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 06:59:06 -0400
From: Bill Connon <billcon...@navigue.com>
To: kenhea...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List MORE QUESTIONS ON EDSON RUDDER INSTALL
Message-ID: <51e678fa.4010...@navigue.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Ken Heaton wrote:
> The 35-1 I race on has no stuffing box. The top of the tube has a
> plastic washer sitting on it with a stainless steel collar locked to
> the shaft just above it to keep the rudder from dropping out of the
> boat. Just above that is the steering quadrant.
>
> In this photo the quadrant has been removed:
>
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-smBuFS_gdZ0/UeZwhWjmAcI/AAAAAAAAM3E/e1coG
51iNLI/w1364-h1023-no/C%2526C35Mk1+Bolts.jpg
> We never did find out what the bolts in the photo were for.
>
> The 35-2 is the same hull with some modifications but sits a couple of
> inches lower in the water so perhaps may have a stuffing box?
>
> Ken H.
>
> Ken,
My guess would be that the bolts in the tube are "jack bolts" to take up
any slack between the rudder shaft and a worn tube. If that's the case,
it's a poor solution to the problem. A better solution would be to
inject the West System kit to rebuild the rudder tube. I did it about 12
years ago and it's holding up well.
Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 09:25:50 -0300
From: Robert Abbott <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Wilcox-Crittenden (now Thetford) HeadMate head
Message-ID: <51e68d4e.6030...@eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
Bill:
For the past 7 years, I put a few ounces of mineral oil in the head and
pump it through every few weeks......keeps every thing working smooth.
Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2013/07/16 7:44 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>
> I had read about using mineral oil as well, so I started using Baby
> oil and then read that that was a no-no. We as sailors are always
> trying to find the generic version of the marine grade that we know is
> ripping us off. I have the Skipper, and noticed that the pump has
> been feeling like it is galling, and was worried I may have
> compromised the rubber in the pump.
>
> I found Thetford head oil can be found in RV stores, (Cheaper) and I
> bought some and have been using that instead. It definitely feels
> like it is more lubricated with that stuff, but the effects don't last
> long.
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 animated_favicon1
>
> *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
> *dre...@gmail.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 16, 2013 3:45 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wilcox-Crittenden (now Thetford) HeadMate head
>
> Hi,
>
> I have battled the same problem of water not coming in through the
> intake. This tends to happen when the head has not been used for some
> time. The problem turns out to be a stuck inlet flap valve. This
> flap is just behind the 6 screw plastic water inlet housing cover.
> Most times, I can just tap the cover with the back of a screw driver
> and it will start working. If that does not work, one can take the
> inlet hose off of the cover and insert a screwdriver into the cover
> inlet to free the flap(make sure the lever is down). At this point
> you could spray or add some type of lubricant. Don Casey suggest to
> monthly flush the head pump with vinegar and then a dose of mineral
> oil. I have also read silicone spray or grease works well for marine
> heads too.
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1979 C&C 29 Mk1
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> On Jul 16, 2013, at 2:07 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2013 12:06:19 -0400
> From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net
> <mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net>>
> To: "Dennis C." <capt...@yahoo.com
> <mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>>,<cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wilcox-Crittenden (now Thetford) HeadMate head
> Message-ID: <E7F4CE96ABB74C49A17496959BE7FC1D@GaryPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> West Marine's catalog shows the parts as well. Page 505 of the
> catalog. Packing Nut for 4.99. Kit for 79.99.
> But..... one lister said that using some Head Lube (p 507) solved his
> washer leaking problem. This was posted in the last couple of weeks.
>
> I have similar problems. My Head mate won't bring water up from the
> thru hull and I'm just leaving to get some Head Lube to see if that
> fixes the problem (and the leaky washer). If not, there are some
> suppliers of kits that are even less expensive than West, but if you
> add in the shipping costs, it comes out to the same. So I may be in
> the market for a kit as well.
>
> Gary Nylander
> 30-1
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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