Nicely written Josh. 
I would add the main halyard setup properly, can only be tensioned to raise the 
sail to the black band. 
As wind increases, the draft of the mainsail will move aft and the Cunningham 
is used to add a little more tension along the luff and bring the draft forward 
into the proper position, 45 to 50%. The Cunningham needs to be eased if the 
wind dies or turning downwind reduces the pressure on the sail. 

On bendy rigs like our three spreader rig, adding backstay tension shortens the 
P dimension, reduces the tension on the main halyard, so we add Cunningham to 
compensate. We ease the Cunningham before easing backstay as they are related. 
Easing backstay increases the P dimension and doing so without easing 
Cunningham or halyard can rip the mainsail. Lesson learned the hard way. 

Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 12:23:16 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C - 33 Missing Cunningham 



What do you mean missing? Do you mean you have a jammer that is labelled 
Cunningham that doesn't have a line running through it? 

The cunningham opposes the main halyard by pulling down on the tack of the 
mainsail. So, you can tension the main by pulling up on the head or down on the 
tack. Usually it is easier and more controlled to use the cunningham but you 
risk having odd sail shapes if pulled too far. Additionally it is usually 
desired to hoist the main as high as possible, not down. So, a tight halyard 
tends to be preferred and the Cunningham is used when tightening the halyard is 
too difficult or unsafe, such as when the wind pipes up and on a close reach. 

On your mainsail you should find a metal Cunningham eye about 5-6 inches above 
the tack ring. Different makers provide different attachments but what I have 
found works well for me is to create a 2:1 advantage by running a line through 
the eye and attaching it to the reefing hook/horn just outboard of the tack 
ring. (Alternatively you could also tie it to the boom.) By pulling down on the 
free end of the line you will be pulling down on the Cunningham ring with 2x 
the power. 

The PO had this free end led to the mast base and back to the cabin top jammer. 
I regularly had to use a winch to tighten the Cunningham. When I replaced the 
line I added a 4:1 block and tackle. The 2:1 bitter end stops just below the 
boom and is finished with an eye. The 4:1 hooks on the eye and attaches to the 
mast base. The free end of the block and tackle is then led back the the 
jammer. The 4:1 pulls down on the 2:1 for a total of 8:1. 

I also used a hook between the 2:1 and 4:1 so that it is easy to disconnect the 
4:1 and reattach it to the reefing eye when reefing. Our mainsail has "floppy 
rings" or "dog bones" that pass through the reefing eye in the sail. They are 
made of nylon webbing running through the reefing eye and finished off on both 
ends by stainless rings larger than the eye. Traditionally when reefing you 
would let the sail down and hook one of the floppy rings to the reefing horn. 
The ring on the other end of the "dog bone" prevents the nylon webbing from 
pulling out of the reefing eye and now the main halyard can be pulled tight. 
While sailing, if you find that there is not enough tension on the halyard you 
can unhook the Cunningham 4:1 from the 2:1 and re-hook it to the "lazy" ring in 
the dog bone. You once again have an 8:1 Cunningham, but now on a reefed sail. 

Arguably, a Cunningham could be considered a fix for a poorly tightened 
halyard...at least on our "big boats". On some smaller boats the cunningham is 
the only thing holding the tack ring. But those cunninghams are also held 
forward ensuring proper foot tension. 

Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 
Solomons, MD 

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When privacy matters. 
http://www.secure-my-email.com 
On Aug 17, 2013 12:22 PM, "Raymond Macklin" < ray.mack...@gmail.com > wrote: 







I purchased a 1985 C&C - 33 and I am missing the cunningham. Does anyone have a 
diagram of where it runs on the boat or could explain it to me. 

Thanks, 

Ray Macklin 
Libertyville, IL 
LakeHouse 

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