Sam,
While the draft change is minimal, the entry of the luff changes with halyard 
tension in the newer materials.  You can check this by experiment.  Set the jib 
halyard hand tight and note the angle of the luff entry; then tighten the 
halyard a lot and note how the entry of the jib moved.
This entry change makes it overall flatter or less flat.
As you state, draft is mostly built in.
Ron
Wild Cheri





On Tuesday, December 3, 2013 8:06 PM, "sam.c.sal...@gmail.com" 
<sam.c.sal...@gmail.com> wrote:
 
I've got the book, one of many, and I understand and am an obsessive sail 
trimer. What I don't understand, yet, is what pulling the halyard on a sail 
that doesn't stretch do?
sam :-)


From: niall buckley
Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 5:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck 

Sam,
If you are really interested in this,(and you should be, if you want to get the 
most pleasure from sailing your vessel),
find a copy of "sail power".
Halyard tension, backstay,lead position,boom downhaul etc are the gears that 
accelerate your boat.
I'm writing on Wellness and Anti Aging now, so find the Book.



On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 8:05 PM, <sam.c.sal...@gmail.com> wrote:

If the shape is factory engineered, and they don't stretch, what is adjusting 
halyard tension going to do?
>Tensioning the halyards on the old sails stretched the Dacron on the bias and 
>moved the draft forward. It can't do that on the kryptonite one!
>A bit more explaining please! 
>
>
>sam :-)
>
>
>From: niall buckley
>Sent: Tuesday, December 3, 2013 4:31 PM
>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>Subject: Re: Stus-List Old Sails Suck 
>
>The main difference is that the new sails dont stretch and their shape is 
>factory engineered.
>You will still adjust mail and genoa halyard tension according to conditions. 
>You will likely
>not ever require a Cunningham ever again.
>Have Fun.
>
>
>
>On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 9:28 AM, Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com> wrote:
>
> 
>>Meant to put this as an aside on Sam's thread.  
New main and #1 on Koobalibra C&C115 this past summer.  The difference 
between these and the 6 year old sails is like high tech winter tires to bald 
tires in a snow storm ....
>>
>>
>>________________________________
>> From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sam.c.sal...@gmail.com
>>Sent: Tuesday, December 03, 2013 12:58 
AM
>>To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>Subject: Stus-List Halyard 
Tension
>>
>>
>>Reading the tread about halyards, and an 
earlier post about furlers reminded me to ask a question of you racers out 
there: -
>>
>>
>>I don’t race - only because there’s no-one 
racing on our lake. Although I have done a couple of Swiftsures.
>>But I like passing boats and hate it when 
boats pass me!
>>My boat has been pretty well upgraded with all 
rope halyards; new adjustable genoa cars; self tailers; new traveller; barbour 
haulers; and new Dacron sails 5 seasons ago.
>>I sail with a 135% genoa on a furler. While 
sailing I adjust the genoa halyard regularly to move draft in the sail as the 
wind changes. (I do the same with the main too!)
>>Now the question:
>>Late this season I bought a new high tech, 
Kevlar, carbon, kryptonite, 135% genoa.
>>I’m assuming I don’t adjust halyard tension 
with this new sail as I don’t think the sail will distort like a Dacron 
sail.
>>Similarly, when I buy a matching main, main 
halyard and Cunningham adjustment will become redundant. Am I correct with this 
assumption?
>>If this is correct, are there any trimming 
adjustments with these new high tech sails that I should become familiar with? 
Do you trim these newer sails any different than the old Dacron sails?
>>What new techniques do I need to absorb?
>>Thanks,
>>sam :-)
>>C&C 26  Liquorice
>>Ghost Lake  Alberta.
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
>
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