FWIW, Fuel gage is separate from the Engine controls on our boat. 
Replaced gage and float assembly 10 years ago with a generic. Works great. 

Our engine control panel has Volts, Tach, and Temperature. The tach reads from 
the alternator and I think that was changed by the previous owner and the 
puller is probably a different diameter? The meter always read half actual RPMs 
of the crankshaft when compared to a hand held tachometer. 1800 on the tach 
indicated 3600 cranksahft. I found a four position selector switch on the OEM 
tach, and tried each setting until the meter was closer to actual. I couldn't 
get it exact, but very close so just live with it. 

For me Engine Temperature is the most important gage and I adjust RPMs based on 
that more than anything else. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stevan Plavsa" <stevanpla...@gmail.com> 
To: "Peter Fell" <prf...@gmail.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2014 10:03:17 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Gauges -- Are the marine onessomewhat universal? 


Replacing the panel has been on the "nice to do" project list since I got the 
boat. We have laser cutters, 3d printers and other machines at work and I've 
been thinking about laser cutting a new panel out of acrylic complete with the 
C&C logo and maybe the boat name. That yellow 27 looks nice, good to see 
another A4 panel. 


Anyway, if I get around to it and if it works out well I can probably get more 
panels cut for fellow listers for the cost of materials and shipping. Bonus is 
that if this works you guys can send me cad or illustrator files of your own 
custom panels. 


My fuel gauge stopped working at the end of the season so I have to start 
digging to figure that out. If I need a new gauge I might just "while I'm in 
there" raise the priority level of this project. 



Steve 
Suhana, C&C 32 
Toronto 



On Sat, Feb 22, 2014 at 8:12 PM, Peter Fell < prf...@gmail.com > wrote: 






Check this panel out (not mine): 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/82061742@N06/ 

I’m not sure if that is starboard, or some other plastic material. I plan to 
replace the original C&C panel on mine in a similar style. Except mine will 
have a smaller 2-1/8” tach and I plan to relocate the couple inline fuses 
buried behind the panel with panel mount (waterproof type) fuses. Seems 
somewhat silly to have 5 and 10 amp fuses buried in behind the panel. 

Frankly I’d keep that panel protected from the weather as much as possible. My 
panel has a buzzer and idiot light to warn of low oil pressure / high 
termperature / low raw-water cooling flow. If possible, pick gauges with ranges 
so that ‘normal’ operating range has all the needles pointing in approximately 
the same orientation. For example, that C&C 27 in the link has an Atomic 4, so 
the readings shown there are all in the range of normal operating parameters. 
So a quick glance should be all that is needed to make sure all is well. The 
alarms are a nice safety (wish I had had them when my FW cooling heat exchanger 
failed!). 

Those are Faria ‘Euro White’ gauges in the link (except for the tach). My panel 
has the ‘Euro Black’ and a couple of the old Teleflex gauges original to the 
boat .. I’ve got new Faria’s to replace the Teleflex (I’ll probably do a new 
oil pressure sending unit whether or not the existing works with the new 
gauges) and I’ve got a VDO tach on order that almost matches (again mine is an 
Atomic 4 so I can’t use a Faria tach since all they make in the 4000 rpm range 
are diesel tachs). 




From: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2014 2:41 PM 


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Gauges -- Are the marine onessomewhat universal? 




Rick, 

It's a big panel and although I could always remove this one and glass over the 
hole, there's really no place to put a panel that big were it won't interfere 
with sheet bags, lockers or the aesthetics of the aft cabin. 

If possible, I was thinking of just making a custom block of a few gauges, an 
ignition switch, a glow plug button and a starter button. 

I figure the only gauges I really need are fuel, temp and tach. 

Could even put the ignition, glow plug and starter inside the locker where I 
have the pull-stop. 

Could be so much more elegant looking. Especially with ivory or white dials on 
the gauges. 



All the best, 

Edd 

------------------------------- 
Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
NCC-1701-B 
C&C 37+ | City Island, NY 
www.StarshipSailing.com 
------------------------------- 
914.332.4400 | Office 
914.332.1671 | Fax 
914.774.9767 | Mobile 
------------------------------- 
Sent via iPhone 5 

On Feb 22, 2014, at 5:00 PM, "Rick Brass" < rickbr...@earthlink.net > wrote: 






The Universal Admiral panel on my 38 is set into a rectangular hole in the 
bulkhead and held in place with 8 screws. Can’t you just move the existing 
panel to a new location and glass in the old opening? 



Failing that, a Universal Admiral Panel is around $250 – I thought about 
upgrading my instruments when I installed the new bobtail engine in 2010, until 
I found out I already had the upgrade instrument panel. Can’t you just buy a 
new panel intended for use with your engine, install it, and fill in the old 
holes (assuming there are individual holes for the instruments, key switch, and 
assorted pushbuttons)? 



Rick Brass 





From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Edd 
Schillay 
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2014 4:08 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Gauges -- Are the marine ones somewhat universal? 




I would like to use the existing senders (I work hard to remain lazy). 





So how would I test the resistance? Unhook the wires and check the ohms with my 
multimeter? Or can I test with them connected? 





All the best, 





Edd 






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