I just read a story of mid 80s and earlier westerbeke/universal wiring setups that cause excessive wiring heat, fires and voltage drops.
The article did give directions on how to rewire to avoid the dangers. All the best, Edd ------------------------------- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B C&C 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com ------------------------------- 914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 | Mobile ------------------------------- Sent via iPhone 5 On Feb 23, 2014, at 11:13 AM, D Harben <sailadventu...@rogers.com> wrote: Hi I replaced the panel for my Atomic 4 on my 29 mk1. Why? The ammeter caught fire. Luckily we were able to put the fire out. It happening at the dock. while visiting at NYC in Toronto for the C&C regatta. It seems that the full battery load ran aft to the ammeter and back to the main switch. A well hydrated elderly ammeter arced it's feeble brain matter. I did the first build in the NYC workshop. That fall, while waiting for haulout in Oakville, thieves gutted my boat AND stole my new cockpit panel! Ouch Anyway ... I will find a place to post pictures if control panel ver2 . I now have more instruments, alarms and switches for Nav lights etc Don > On Feb 23, 2014, at 10:03 AM, Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Replacing the panel has been on the "nice to do" project list since I got the > boat. We have laser cutters, 3d printers and other machines at work and I've > been thinking about laser cutting a new panel out of acrylic complete with > the C&C logo and maybe the boat name. That yellow 27 looks nice, good to see > another A4 panel. > > Anyway, if I get around to it and if it works out well I can probably get > more panels cut for fellow listers for the cost of materials and shipping. > Bonus is that if this works you guys can send me cad or illustrator files of > your own custom panels. > > My fuel gauge stopped working at the end of the season so I have to start > digging to figure that out. If I need a new gauge I might just "while I'm in > there" raise the priority level of this project. > > Steve > Suhana, C&C 32 > Toronto > > >> On Sat, Feb 22, 2014 at 8:12 PM, Peter Fell <prf...@gmail.com> wrote: >> Check this panel out (not mine): >> >> http://www.flickr.com/photos/82061742@N06/ >> >> I’m not sure if that is starboard, or some other plastic material. I plan to >> replace the original C&C panel on mine in a similar style. Except mine will >> have a smaller 2-1/8” tach and I plan to relocate the couple inline fuses >> buried behind the panel with panel mount (waterproof type) fuses. Seems >> somewhat silly to have 5 and 10 amp fuses buried in behind the panel. >> >> Frankly I’d keep that panel protected from the weather as much as possible. >> My panel has a buzzer and idiot light to warn of low oil pressure / high >> termperature / low raw-water cooling flow. If possible, pick gauges with >> ranges so that ‘normal’ operating range has all the needles pointing in >> approximately the same orientation. For example, that C&C 27 in the link has >> an Atomic 4, so the readings shown there are all in the range of normal >> operating parameters. So a quick glance should be all that is needed to make >> sure all is well. The alarms are a nice safety (wish I had had them when my >> FW cooling heat exchanger failed!). >> >> Those are Faria ‘Euro White’ gauges in the link (except for the tach). My >> panel has the ‘Euro Black’ and a couple of the old Teleflex gauges original >> to the boat .. I’ve got new Faria’s to replace the Teleflex (I’ll probably >> do a new oil pressure sending unit whether or not the existing works with >> the new gauges) and I’ve got a VDO tach on order that almost matches (again >> mine is an Atomic 4 so I can’t use a Faria tach since all they make in the >> 4000 rpm range are diesel tachs). >> >> From: Edd Schillay >> Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2014 2:41 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Gauges -- Are the marine onessomewhat >> universal? >> >> Rick, >> >> It's a big panel and although I could always remove this one and glass over >> the hole, there's really no place to put a panel that big were it won't >> interfere with sheet bags, lockers or the aesthetics of the aft cabin. >> >> If possible, I was thinking of just making a custom block of a few gauges, >> an ignition switch, a glow plug button and a starter button. >> >> I figure the only gauges I really need are fuel, temp and tach. >> >> Could even put the ignition, glow plug and starter inside the locker where I >> have the pull-stop. >> >> Could be so much more elegant looking. Especially with ivory or white dials >> on the gauges. >> >> >> All the best, >> >> Edd >> >> ------------------------------- >> Edd M. Schillay >> Starship Enterprise >> NCC-1701-B >> C&C 37+ | City Island, NY >> www.StarshipSailing.com >> ------------------------------- >> 914.332.4400 | Office >> 914.332.1671 | Fax >> 914.774.9767 | Mobile >> ------------------------------- >> Sent via iPhone 5 >> >> On Feb 22, 2014, at 5:00 PM, "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> wrote: >> >> The Universal Admiral panel on my 38 is set into a rectangular hole in the >> bulkhead and held in place with 8 screws. Can’t you just move the existing >> panel to a new location and glass in the old opening? >> >> >> >> Failing that, a Universal Admiral Panel is around $250 – I thought about >> upgrading my instruments when I installed the new bobtail engine in 2010, >> until I found out I already had the upgrade instrument panel. Can’t you just >> buy a new panel intended for use with your engine, install it, and fill in >> the old holes (assuming there are individual holes for the instruments, key >> switch, and assorted pushbuttons)? >> >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> >> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd >> Schillay >> Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2014 4:08 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Gauges -- Are the marine ones somewhat >> universal? >> >> >> >> I would like to use the existing senders (I work hard to remain lazy). >> >> >> >> So how would I test the resistance? Unhook the wires and check the ohms with >> my multimeter? Or can I test with them connected? >> >> >> >> All the best, >> >> >> >> Edd >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
