Bill,

In addition to a faulty pressure switch, one of the diaphragm/check valve
assemblies may leaking.  This results in internal bypassing in the head of
the pump.

Is there a strainer on the pump intake?  If not, debris may have gotten
into the pump head and fouled one of the valves.

Do you have an accumulator on the system?   If so, does it have a Shraeder
valve on it?  If that's the case, turn on the pump, let it build pressure
and measure the pressure at the accumulator with a tire pressure gauge.
Turn the pump off, wait and measure the pressure at intervals.  If the
pressure falls noticeably, the disc valves in the pump head may be leaking.

If you don't have an accumulator, turn on the pump, let it build pressure,
turn it off.  Immediately crack open a faucet and get an idea of the
pressure.  Turn it on again, let it build pressure, turn it off, wait 24
hours and then crack the faucet open again.  If the pressure appears
significantly less, then internal bypassing may be occurring.

You can buy replacement heads and pressure switches for most PAR pumps.
However, as soon as you do, the motor will die.  It's a natural law of
boating.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Wed, May 28, 2014 at 9:41 PM, Wwadjourn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>  Anyone know how to troubleshoot PAR diaphragm pump that pumps great but will 
> not shut off when reaches pressure.  Just keeps on grinding.  There is NO air 
> in system.  with faucets open pumps great, great pressure, but when shut 
> faucets it won't reach pressure and stop.  Is there a setting for pressure?  
> Was working fine this spring, now not.
>
> Bill Walker
>
> CnC 36
>
> Pentwater, Mi
>
>
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