I used 3/8 inch for my windows and ½ inch for my hatches. I used polycarbonate sheet. Brand name Macrolon. A little more expensive but worth it in my opinion. This is the stuff used for bullet resistance. It is easy to cut and drill and very durable. My windows are through bolted to the coach house so I had to drill many holes very near the edge. No problem at all.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 6:47 PM To: Dr. Mark Bodnar; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements I have a 27 Mk lll. Replaced windows with 1/4 in Plexiglas held in place by double.-sided butyl tape. Foolproof. _____ From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: 2014-09-23 1:28 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements I've done a bunch of reading on this topic as my windows are cracked and need replacement. I don't have any experience actually doing it.... but I've read multiple different techniques -- so my comments should be taken with a grain (or bag) of salt! Nest year I may be able to speak from experience. I remember one discussion on the problem with adhesives was that the acrylic expands and contracts at different rates than the boat (or does not match boat flexing) and that most people put too thin a layer of adhesive - which could not absorb the movement. The recommended solution was to use double sided tape to keep the acrylic a couple millimeters off the gelcoat - then squeeze the adhesive caulk in around the edges for the water proofing. With more thickness there is more ability to absorb the different motions. Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 23/09/2014 12:42 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote: A few years ago I lightly ran a cutting knife around the outside edge of the 30-year glued windows, went inside and hit each one once, moderately, with my fist. Every one popped right out. No gelcoat damage, but scarily easy.... Did the cast acrylic/plexus routine, was happy with nice new ports except for the not so pretty glue line showing through #2404 bronze 3/8", but then this year the large window started leaking again. Broken-hearted would cover it. One of several reasons we're currently closing on a boat with Lewmar ports. Nate "Sarah Jean" 1980 30-1 Siskiwit Bay Marina Lake Superior On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 7:54 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Curtis, be very careful when taking the old ones out. They are glued in with some powerful stuff and you stand a good chance of chipping the gelcoat around the windows (don't ask me how I know). You may want to try a dremel or one of those vibrating side cutters (Fein tool?). Then you have to clean up the area where the adhesive was - it was probably laid on pretty thick and is another dremel job - again - care. Some folks use a special adhesive called Plexus, which is a two part glue and needs a special gun for application. The windows are bonded into the side of the cabin and are part of the structure. You have to hold them in place (they are slightly bent to match the curve of your cabin). Or you can use Sikaflex 295, which requires a cleaner, a primer (mandatory!!!) and the adhesive. Don't get creative and try anything else, there are probably 100 war stories about folks who have experimented and then got the opportunity to do it right the next year. Search through the archives on the site - most of the late '70's and later original C&C's had glued in windows and there are a lot of threads on this repair. It is doable but not trivial. Jake had a pretty good description if I remember correctly. Gary Nylander (Been there with moderate success) ----- Original Message ----- From: Curtis via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2014 8:21 AM Subject: Stus-List C&C30MK1 windows and hatch replacements Good morning, I'm thinking of a winter project to replace the cabin side windows with something stronger and nice. Has anybody undergone this project that could share their process and maybe some photos ? Do I just cut them out with a razor knife and take them to a lexan shop and have them duplicate them in a lighter color? Is there a framed in type? I have been stopping leaks in them windows sense I got the boat? I also want to rebuild the forward hatch and need something strong and that lets in more light. I need to know if the gasket around the inside is replaceable? Mine is cracking up and needs to be replaced. all-tho the leaking looks to be the caulking of the class itself to the frame. If you can share some in-depth details on how the two mentioned projects are to be completed I would be very thankful. I am very good at DIY projects and could do this project without imput. It is so much nicer hearing from people that have done it. Thanks Best regards, Curtis C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady Port Royal, South Carolina <mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com> cpt.b...@gmail.com ~~~~ __/) ~~~~ . _____ _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _____ <http://www.avast.com/> Image removed by sender. 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