Agreed that bottom paint is all local.

In warm water such as I have in southern/western Florida, the soft paints such 
as Micron and CSC are no good at all.

Everyone I know uses Trinidad. At the boatyard where I used to haul in Fort 
Lauderdale, I don’t think they even stocked other brands. If they did, there 
were only a few. They made it clear Trinidad was what you wanted.

Jack Brennan
Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.

From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 4:50 PM
To: 'Douglas Mountjoy' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > Micron 66

Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local.  I have had Micron 66 
for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 weeks from mid 
July through September.  That is considerably better than the VC Offshore I had 
previously which had to be cleaned every week.  We are club racing weekly and 
10+ weekend regattas or races each summer.



As a comparison to Doug’s harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in for 4 
days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and slime.  So at 
the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled.



Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy 
rains the ”river” flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a little 
brackish.  Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run off from the 
lawns of the homes on both shores.



Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of the 
most expensive.



Brian



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Douglas 
Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for knocking 
off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no cleaning. 
Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also clean the paddle 
wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of being dirty it is 
time to go cruising.

Doug Mountjoy

Pegasus LF38

Just west of Ballard, WA



On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure 
washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the hull 
looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by the yard.  
I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of Micon 66 compared 
to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF paints used in this 
area.



  The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains 
higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint would 
likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a typical boat 
that races.



  Mike



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
  To: Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



  Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron 
66...... Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least it 
is in our climate....for all of those that are bottom cleaning every month, 
maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.    Just a thought.

  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S.




  On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:

    I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it 
was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do the 
keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too aggressive 
on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)

    Bill Bina

    On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

      There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you 
described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.



      It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks 
to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen 
cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a plastic 
pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser version with 
just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore that one out, I got 
the special model with the cylinders. The only downside is that you cannot 
reach the keel.



      I use it between diver trips.



      Gary

        ----- Original Message -----

        From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List

        To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

        Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM

        Subject: Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat



        I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some 
flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning at 
a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have to work 
my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It takes a 
little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard to do.

        I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver 
would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.

        I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing 
the broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition 
to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from plumbing 
so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a foot. That 
clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area of the hull 
without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some pictures of this 
thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post them somewhere on the 
web.

        Bill Bina






_______________________________________________This List is provided by the C&C 
Photo Album Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, 
including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


  _______________________________________________
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com







--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection 
is active.
http://www.avast.com
_______________________________________________
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Reply via email to