I used 66 one year in Solomons MD. While it worked through the year just fine, the day I hauled the boat the paint pealed off in sheets as soon as the water dried. A discussion with Micron revealed that that is common if the paint is used in freshwater. They didn't expect the brackish waters of the middle Chesapeake Bay to do that but I was also up a small tributary and close to shore. They apologized and quickly issued a refund for the paint and the sanding/cleaning and repainting with CSC.
So, as others have mentioned, 66 is a highly rated paint which I would gladly use but be warned it must only be used in saltwater. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Dec 23, 2014 4:50 PM, "Nauset Beach via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Bottom paint effectiveness, like politics, is all local. I have had > Micron 66 for the past 6 years and the bottom has to be cleaned every 2 > weeks from mid July through September. That is considerably better than > the VC Offshore I had previously which had to be cleaned every week. We > are club racing weekly and 10+ weekend regattas or races each summer. > > > > As a comparison to Doug's harbor, if the speedo paddle wheel is left in > for 4 days during that period it is completely fouled with shrimp and > slime. So at the end of every weekend the speedo is pulled. > > > > Am in salt water though in a dammed river estuary and when there are heavy > rains the "river" flows over the spillway and the harbor probably gets a > little brackish. Also am certain there is no shortage of fertilizer run > off from the lawns of the homes on both shores. > > > > Micron 66 seems to be one of the better paints and it certainly is one of > the most expensive. > > > > Brian > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Douglas > Mountjoy via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 2:44 PM > *To:* Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > > > > I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for > knocking off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no > cleaning. Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also > clean the paddle wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of > being dirty it is time to go cruising. > > Doug Mountjoy > > Pegasus LF38 > > Just west of Ballard, WA > > > > On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Bob showed me his hull last week. The boat was hauled and not pressure > washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season. The bottom of the > hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by > the yard. I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of > Micon 66 compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF > paints used in this area. > > > > The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada. It contains > higher levels of copper than is allowed here. A pity since this paint > would likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a > typical boat that races. > > > > Mike > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert > Abbott via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM > *To:* Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > > > > Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron > 66...... Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least > it is in our climate....for all of those that are bottom cleaning every > month, maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work. Just a thought. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C&C 32 - 84 > Halifax, N.S. > > > > > On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote: > > I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it > was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do > the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too > aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-) > > Bill Bina > > On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote: > > There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you > described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad. > > > > It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks > to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen > cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a > plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser > version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore > that one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside > is that you cannot reach the keel. > > > > I use it between diver trips. > > > > Gary > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM > > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat > > > > I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some > flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning > at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have > to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It > takes a little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard > to do. > > I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver > would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing. > > I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the > broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition > to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from > plumbing so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a > foot. That clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area > of the hull without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some > pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post > them somewhere on the web. > > Bill Bina > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page > at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of > page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
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