Try a bolt.  Maybe over drill the hole and up size the bolt.  A nylock wing
nut and washers.  Drill a small hole in the end of the thread to accept a
split ring just in case the wing nut backs off.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
On Jan 26, 2015 10:56 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use my Cunningham when I reef to reduce pressure on the double hook
> thing above the gooseneck.
> That being said, I don't think my double hook thing (tack hook) has ever
> been properly installed since I've owned the boat. It's a stainless rod
> that becomes the hinge pin of the gooseneck and has a very small hole
> through it at the bottom where I place a small washer and split pin to hold
> it in place.  Without the Cunningham in place the upward tension on the
> luff of the main places a lot of load on this little pin and I have had one
> break while reefed after forgetting the Cunningham. This resulted in
> gooseneck separation which killed my race as fitting it all back together
> in 25 knots with a boom kicker is nearly impossible without taking
> everything apart.
> What is the proper configuration of this little double hook thing (tack
> hook)? Is there something better than a split pin for this?
>
> Brent D
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 26, 2015, at 6:09 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> FWIW,  I agree with Antoine's description of using the Cunningham and
> Flattening Reef.
> These tweaks are used similarly on all mainsails, from dinghies to bigger
> keel boats.
>
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Antoine Rose via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *To: *"David Paine" <paineda...@gmail.com>, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent: *Sunday, January 25, 2015 11:44:33 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Cunningham
>
> Hi David,
>
> To answer your question, we need to go back a bit to the origin the
> cunningham. Well, the main sail is up and properly tensioned, which mean
> that the halyard point is close to the mast top block to use the full
> length of your mast. Wind is light, not too much tension is needed on the
> halyard. As wind increases, more is needed. Eventually, the halyard is
> fully tensioned but the wind still get a bit stronger, but not enough to
> reef and, since you're racing you don't want to give any water to that boat
> just beside yours. As the wind increases, the sail draft moves back,
> increasing heeling and reducing speed. Tensioning the cunningham does just
> that, bringing the draft forward for two reasons: it increases the
> tensioning but also, because the cunningham grommet is slightly aft of the
> sail, pull forward the main foot.
>
> Having the grommet has another advantage. If you have a corresponding
> grommet on the leach side, you can take a six inch reef (sorry, don't how
> it's called in English, "ris de fond" in French). This very small reef does
> not reduce substantially the size of the sail but removes much of the
> draft. A flatter main points higher and reduce heeling.
>
> Antoine (C&C 30 Cousin)
>
> Le 2015-01-25 à 18:32, David Paine via CnC-List a écrit :
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > I'm buying a new mainsail and I am going to ask a ridiculous-sounding
> question.   Do you have a Cunningham grommet in your mainsail?   I do not
> in my current sail but that is because Hood made the sail with a jack line
> (or lace line) which serves the purpose.  My new sail definitely won't have
> a jack-line.  Some adjust luff tension with the halyard, others use a
> separate Cunningham grommet with a many part tackle (or lead the Cunningham
> line to a winch) to set the luff tension.  My sailmaker has an opinion but
> my question is, which do you use?  The Cunningham is useless when reefed,
> of course.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > David
> > _______________________________________________
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