Re: Stus-List 29-2 stuffing box

Wed, 03 Jun 2015 06:13:42 -0700 


Good correction Robert.
I should have said, "... will drip once per minute..." (phew, metric still gets me sometimes :) 

And yeah, this guy does a great job of presenting boat chores information.

        Cheers, Russ

At 06:00 AM 03/06/2015, Robert wrote:

Great site on how to repack a traditional stuffing box.
Bev, as for the size of the packing material, it depends on the diameter of the prop shaft.....as the article stated, I used three strands of 3/16" flax on a 1" diameter shaft. However, mine does not drip at the rate anywhere near where Russ has stated 'one drip per second at running speed'.......mine drips about two drops per minute.
When I was repacking, I placed the three strands of flax into the packing nut but then could not get it to thread.....if this happens to you, tip....put two strands in first and compress them......open everything up and then put the third one in and then the packing nut should thread. 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-06-03 2:36 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Rick & Bev,
Good advice, except the repack. Packing loads into the gland as segments, not as a spiral wound. The direction of shaft rotation has nothin' to do with it.
I found this very nice explanation to pass along. this guy does a bang-up job of presenting this task. Pages 2 & 3 is most interesting. 
<http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box%26page=1>http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box&page=1
I suggest performing this task during a haulout and using the shaft near the propeller as your packing segment cutting guide. It's a very comfortable way to do it.
I didn't see it there but a properly adjusted stuffing box with flax & lanolin packing (the common old timer's marine stuff), will drip once per second at running speed and dry up when it cools. 

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1
Vancouver Island


At 08:52 PM 02/06/2015, you wrote:
HI Bev, I now have a dripless shaft, but in the past I have tweaked these. It’s not complex. If you don’t need new packing you just tighten the gland to a point where it is weeping at the rate you like. Channel locks or pipe wrench will do the trick. This is not high stress wrenching but you need to tension the packing with the first large nut, and then lock your tension with the second net to snug. Too tight on the packing and it will heat up and eat the packing pretty quickly, so the whole exercise is gentle and to be happy with the rate of drip. If you tighten it down and the pace continues, you may need new packing. If you pull your old packing out a bit and snip some off to see what was used you should be able to staunch the flow again. If you pull it all out the box will leak at a high rate. Lots of folks have the new packing! Plan accordingly. As I recall the new packing wraps in the opposite direction as the forward prop spin (take a mental picture as you pull the old packing out), enough to fill the gland then tighten gently to the point the drip slows, stops or is very small. Keep an eye on it and tighten accordingly. It will break in eventually and will remain static possibly for years.  I wish I were in Vancouver as I would drop in and fix it, for a couple of pints. Of course in Canada it may be cheaper to hire a top notch mechanic than buy me a couple of beers. lol It sounds like you are worried about it, and rightly so as the relentless dripping adds up in the bilge. It is not a huge problem though and someone on the net will chime in and come give you a hand. Great folks in BC on C&C and other fine vessels. 
Cheers
Rick Rohwer]
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA
On Jun 2, 2015, at 8:21 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
What is the size of nuts on the stuffing box shaft? What size is the packing? Does anyone know of a gnome or elf available for hire in Vancouver to tighten the same? 
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