I installed a Tides Marine Strong Track on my 38 about a decade ago. I am quite 
satisfied with it. My main has type D slides for the 5 full battens and either 
F or H slides for the other slides. When new, I could raise the sail by hand to 
within about 5 feet of the top before putting the line on a winch. And the sail 
came down like the blade on a guillotine.

 

Still comes down quickly and needs someone to tend the drop, and still goes up 
easy enough but not as easily as when new.

 

That’s probably my fault. Like a lot of guys I tend not to read the 
instructions until I run into a problem. Tides marine tells you not to use 
lubricants on the track. Wash it out with dish detergent and fresh water. 
Lubricants, silicone, etc. either attach the surface of the plastic or allow 
dirt to build up in the track. Which degrades performance. Or so the tech guy 
at Tides Marine said when I called him last year.

 

Shop around before you purchase the system. And talk to your sailmaker about 
what slides you will need to have installed on the sail. The track system is 
available from a number of suppliers – including direct order from the 
manufacturer – so look for the best price.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Petar 
Horvatic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 12:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Petar Horvatic
Subject: Stus-List Main sail slides

 

I’ve been having issues with my mainsail.  It seems the slides are bucking in 
the mast track. 

Part of it is due to warn track, and part due to new(second hand)main sail 
having full battens.  I ended up ripping the luff cord trying to bring the main 
down in a blow last year, and the patch job gave way on my first sail this 
year.   

My slides are round barrel slug attached to grommets on the luff via stainless 
shackles.  Jiffy reefing makes things worse and so does the fact that I never 
converted the masthead pulley after changing wire rope to 3/8” halyard.  

 

Has anyone improved their mainsail track using something like this 

http://www.sailcare.com/sail-track-system.shtml

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C&C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2015 10:38 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mixing Elbow - 2GM20F

 

Yeah maybe it was short sided to use tape but the point was to "lubricate"  the 
threads and allow a tight enough connection.  It is in fact tight enough 
because my air filter now stays clean.  Like i said, I may play hell getting it 
apart should the need arise.  As for fumes, i haven't noticed any.... 

Josh

On Jun 23, 2015 7:40 AM, "Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I know That teflon tape is not used in fuel oil heating system lines because 
the fuel dissolves teflon tape.

Bill Bina

On 6/23/2015 12:38 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Josh,

Good point made regarding tapered thread sealing qualities and the lube aids to 
obtaining a good mechanical seal.

I'm a little dismayed that you used Teflon tape on the exhaust fittings. This 
is probably the worst application for the product (second being any system with 
a pump in it). It is best used in domestic water situations. 

At about 660 degrees F Teflon tape decomposes and emits a toxic fume. Fatal to 
birds in the home when the frying pan gets too hot and probably not good for 
humans in a small space either. 

I whole heartedly support the use of high temp anti-seize. It might stink a wee 
bit on the first couple of runs but it probably won't harm you. 

        Cheers, Russ
        Sweet 35 mk-1

At 04:08 AM 22/06/2015, you wrote:



Most if not all pipe dopes and Teflon tape sealers are not really there to 
"seal" the threads of a NPT fitting from leaking.  They are simply there to 
lubricate the threads so a sufficiently tight connection can be made.  The 
lubricant may also help in disassembly.  By design the mechanical compression 
as a result of the tapered threads is what is actually supposed to prevents 
leaks.  Yes, you can use all manner of sealants which may "help" but a proper 
NPT connection shouldn't need it. 

That being said, I used Teflon tape on my exhaust (3GM35F).  Just 2 wraps.  I 
may have difficulty getting the joint apart, who knows.  I also used a bench 
vice to provide enough counter-torque.

As a suggestion I would give high temp anti-seaze a try.  It is usually copper 
colored and most auto parts stores should carry it.  If you've ever replaced 
an O2 sensor they include a small tube.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

 


_______________________________________________

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com <mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

_______________________________________________

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Reply via email to