Thanks to all for the great replies--as usual this list is awesome.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Hoyt, Mike <mike.h...@impgroup.com>
Sent: Fri, Jul 10, 2015 8:58 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck repair


  
   
Charlie
   
 
   
This is a pretty simple repair.  Since your deck is already painted (Kiwi grip) 
then you should have no worries about adhesion or even a noticeable repair.  
You can purchase balsa core at most marine fiberglass retailers and it comes 
usually in 2x4 foot sizes made up of many balsa cubes (approx. 1 x 2 inches 
each) attached to a loose fabric backing.  Very easily cut to appropriate size. 
 
   
 
   
Use epoxy.  It bonds the best and paint adheres to epoxy.  Epoxy will make the 
best repair as well and that should be your primary concern.  
   
 
   
Lay down 2 or three layers of 6 oz or similar fiberglass cloth.  Thoroughly 
saturate with epoxy (use a paint brush or putty knife ..).  Place in the precut 
balsa.  At this point place a heavy weight over the balsa to anchor it while 
the epoxy cures.  Be sure to put plastic wrap or similar over the area to stop 
the weight from curing to the epoxy – the wrap will not adhere.  
   
 
   
You will have the area ground down around the hole and now you fill any voids 
(I use west 406 silica to thicken epoxy for this or similar) and grind out any 
air bubbles.  Then three or four layers of 6 oz cloth each overlapping the last 
and extending over the edge of surrounding area which you had ground down.  Use 
unthickened epoxy for this.
   
 
   
When all is done you now have your patch but it will not likely be level.  
Epoxy thickened with West 407 sandable filler or similar is good to build up 
the area to level.  If you ever have taped drywall in your home it is very 
similar process.  Use Random orbital or similar sander with 80 grit to sand to 
a smooth surface.  Check against rest of deck with a straight edge like a ruler 
to identify high and low spots.  Expect at least one filler and two skim coats 
to get the area level with deck and smooth.
   
 
   
Next wipe down with solvent wash (something like Interlux 202) and apply your 
primer with a roller (I use the 4” foam rollers).  Interlux Pre-Kote is good 
for one part non skid paints.  After 24 hours you can apply your non skid 
paint.  I have always used Interlux products such as Brightside with non skid 
additive or Interdeck.  There has never been an issue bonding to Epoxy or to 
Polyester.  I believe Kiwi Grip is also a one part paint very similar to 
Interdeck but you should check with the kiwi Grip people for advice about 
primers etc.  I am sure they have tech support the same as Interlux does.
   
 
   
I have photo documented this process for the first 4 areas I recored on Nut 
Case (J27) in 2008.  The process can be found here …  
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/Projects/recore/recore.htm
   
 
   
Note that I have used this process around chain plates and cockpit floor on our 
Niagara 26 Full Tilt 2, in 14 areas of deck and cockpit on J27 Nut Case and 
even filled a couple old holes and repainted a few areas around winches and 
coachroof on Persistence.  It is an easy job that will leave you satisfied.
   
 
   
Don’t be afraid to cut your deck.  Pretty much every C&C has a balsa cored deck 
and likely 90% have moisture in the core in some areas.  This sort of repair 
should be considered general maintenance anyway ….
   
 
   
Mike
   
Persistence
   
Halifax
   
 
   
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 3:10 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: cenel...@aol.com
 Subject: Stus-List Deck repair
   
 
   
    
I managed to crush a 2" x 4" portion of my aft deck on both sides recently.
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
I have cleaned out the balsa core and removed the fiberglass/gel coat pieces on 
top and need to fill it in (its about 1 inch deep) and then, eventually, cover 
it with the Kiwi Grip that
   
   
    
was on it pre-crushing.
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
I have done a lot of fiberglass construction with epoxy and thought I would mix 
up a batch with some cotton fiber filler and just fill the hole.
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
Alternatively I could wet a bunch of fiberglass tape I have with epoxy and then 
top this off with some thickened epoxy.
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
Then I read about gel coat repair and it says that this won't adhere to an 
epoxy repair so I maybe I should fill the holes with thickened
   
   
    
gel coat so that eventually some Kiwi Grip will stick to it.
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
I need to fill it this weekend before the balsa core gets wet from rain, etc. 
although I have put a thin coating of epoxy on the balsa to protect it 
temporarily.
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
What advice does the list have for such a repair?
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
TIA,
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
Charlie Nelson
   
   
    
Water Phantom
   
   
    
C&C 36 XL/kcb
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
 
   
   
    
cenel...@aol.com
   
  
 

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