Hi, Chuck. As far as power goes, run the 8AWG positive cable through the appropriately-sized breaker on your DC panel (I seem to recall they spec a 10-amp breaker…) and run the 8AWG negative cable to the same point behind your DC panel where all the rest of the negative wires connect; this should have a decently-sized conductor to the negative battery terminal(s), as well as some kind of connection to the engine block. You MUST use marine-grade tinned stranded cable for this; if you’re having issues finding some, let me know and I can dig through my stock and see what I’ve got, then terminate it properly for you. 8AWG requires the use of large terminals and a proper crimper.
AS far as the SeaTalkNG bus goes, the backbone cables come in two- and three-meter lengths, which would work for your use; I can get those for you, if you need them. You probably won’t have much luck trading them. And I don’t think TefGel is necessary on the connections for the SeaTalkNG network; those plugs have O-rings and fit very tightly, so you should be good. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 3, 2015, at 6:25 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > I'm installing a new Raymarine EV-100 wheel autohelm and could use some > advice? > > This kit uses a series of cables that plug together via a backbone cable, > tees and spurs. > The papers say: > It needs an 8 gage ground wire as a reference and a drain. Can be run to > negative bus. Would a ground terminal strip be better and connect that to > the engine block? All 8 gage wire stranded, maybe? > The kit came with a 16 ft long backbone cable. The distance between devices > are 8 ft, and 6 ft. I'd like to avoid hiding a coil of extra cable. Can I > trade this at a Raymarine dealer for a few shorter backbone cables? > Should I use TefGel on the connections or keep em dry? > > Chuck > Resolute > 1990 C&C 34R > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
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