Hi Chuck


I recall reading in one of your C&C posts that you have an M4-30 and that
you dismantled and cleaned the heat exchanger.  Is that correct and if so
what did you find inside? I mean how it’s built and was anything clogging
it?  Also did you ever do any cleaning/maintenance where the salt water
from the heat exchanger enters the exhuast gas line?  My M4-30 runs great
at 1600 rpm but when I run it at higher rpm’s it runs hotter than I think
it should, like at 2500 rpm the temp gage climbs to boiling and sometimes
220 F but the engine is still smooth and strong, just hotter than I would
like to see.  I would like to see more water exiting the boat and I know my
raw water pump is good since I have installed a new impeller with no
noticeable change in performance and I know the raw water feed to that pump
is not blocked, lots of flow into the bilge when I disconnect it from the
pump.  Can yo give me any advice from your experience.



Thanks

dwight

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Aug 3, 2015 at 8:25 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> I'm installing a new Raymarine EV-100 wheel autohelm and could use some
> advice?
>
> This kit uses a series of cables that plug together via a backbone cable,
> tees and spurs.
> The papers say:
> It needs an 8 gage ground wire as a reference and a drain.  Can be run to
> negative bus.  Would a ground terminal strip be better and connect that to
> the engine block?  All 8 gage wire stranded, maybe?
> The kit came with a 16 ft long backbone cable.  The distance between
> devices are 8 ft, and 6 ft.  I'd like to avoid hiding a coil of extra
> cable.  Can I trade this at a Raymarine dealer for a few shorter backbone
> cables?
> Should I use TefGel on the connections or keep em dry?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
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