You need to figure out if your vents are 3 or 4 inches. Buy a blower *designed for ventilating gas fumes* with the correct diameter and some hose. You want the end of hose near the engine as low down as you can get.
Joe Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 2:19 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Gary Nylander Subject: Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki My 30-1 has a flexible hose of about 4 inches in diameter hooked to each dorade. I have a diesel, so am not as concerned about getting fumes out, so have put smaller vents where the dorados exit. One of the vent hoses is hooked through the blower. I will go over to the boat tomorrow and read the specs off the blower for you. I would guess that one of the dorades should point forward and that hose should just exit near the engine (mine does) and the one through the blower should face aft. It sounds like you have the original setup. Gary #593 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2015 1:44 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com<mailto:ryanpdo...@gmail.com>> Subject: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki Hey all, I'm looking for input on a good blower installation on my 1976 C&C 30 mki. I'm almost through rewiring my entire boat and I'm up to replacing the blower. I removed the the old unit because the fan motor was dead. Judging by the look of it, it may have been original. The flexible hoses were connected to nothing, so I'm not exactly sure how it was originally hooked up. Although I surmise it exhausted through one of the two dorade vents on the transom. I assume the other dorade vent is used to just allow outside air into the engeine compartment - since there is nothing hooked up to that. I'm curious what the original blower/air inlet setup was on a 30 mki, and I'm I'm looking for the safest and most effective way to clear my engine compartment of gasoline fumes. Also, if anyone has opinions on the proper size (in CFM) of the blower(s) and the proper diameter of the flexible tubing I'd love to hear it. Thanks! On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 12:00 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> You can reach the person managing the list at cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Anchor locker lid attachment (Robert Boyer) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2015 10:11:11 -0500 From: Robert Boyer <dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "svpegasu...@gmail.com<mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com>" <svpegasu...@gmail.com<mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com>>, jda...@gmail.com<mailto:jda...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment Message-ID: <4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com<mailto:4d4285ee-cf88-4390-aeb3-c712347f9...@icloud.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" My anchor locker lid on my LF38 is cored and it uses piano hinges. So, in 1983 that was the standard in the Rhode Island plant. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com<mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com<http://dainyrays.blogspot.com> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame > On Dec 23, 2015, at 12:20 AM, > svpegasu...@gmail.com<mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com> via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: > > Patrick, I redid my anchor locker hatch and don't remember any coring. Except > on the hatch its self. I cut the hatch in half when I installed my windlass. > I have 2 strap hinges on each half, with each one opening outboard. > > Doug Mountjoy > svPegasus > LF38 > just west of Ballard, WA. > > > ------ Original message------ > From: Patrick Davin via CnC-List > Date: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 10:54 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>; > Cc: Patrick Davin; > Subject:Stus-List Anchor locker lid attachment > > Next up on my winter project list: reinforcing the anchor locker lid > attachment. > > C&C's are made really well for the most part, but I had a "what were they > thinking???" moment this weekend. I was investigating the anchor locker lid > hinge (which is screwed into a recessed area of the deck) because several > screws have pulled out and there are rust stains. The surprise was it looks > like the 15-20 screws for the hinge went into wood coring. Screws in wood > core, in the wettest part of the boat! (the foredeck takes the most waves, > and when at dock it's always humid from rain) > > Pictures: > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxfHpwssU_6NQThGM1AzTmxabU0&usp=sharing > > Has anyone else redone their anchor locker hinge? Can you confirm that it's > cored, or am I on the crazy pills? > > The reason I suspected core in the first place is that the lid hinge is about > 1" outside of the deck area where all fiberglass was used along the toe rail. > Tap testing / sounding doesn't reveal any significant differences, so I think > the issue is very contained, surprisingly. It seems like if they had made the > anchor locker an inch or so wider, they wouldn't have had to screw in to > coring - but maybe the fiberglass layer isn't thick enough to fit the screws. > Anyway, I'm thinking ream out some core from each hole, dry it out for 3-7 > days (which may not be doable till the summer), fill with thickened epoxy and > redrill. > > -Patrick > 1984 C&C Landfall 38 > Seattle, WA > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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