Thanks. I've been wondering how using the engine would play out. During our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop. I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and easterly wind.
I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips? I was thinking of going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is. It's just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc. It's a little over 100 nm to get down there. Thanks again for the info. Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C&C 25 Fort Pierce FL On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Mark, I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the sea state and wind direction. Because of that, I will try my best to sail using a 100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose. When I need to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into the wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea which rolls the boat to leeward. Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern. I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in one piece. Chuck Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 Mk 1 S/V Orion 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Thanks Chuck. Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well. I have a 20" outboard as well. How often do you have trouble with the engine cavitating? Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C&C 25 Fort Pierce FL On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Mark, I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t. My plywood backing plate inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it is epoxy bonded in place and through bolted with the 4 ½” motor mount bolts with large fender washers to spread out the loads. I would say that the spacing of the motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is easily 18” wide and 13” high. I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused by the motor induced transom flex. All was good until I had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the wind. Whenever the prop would come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but given a second choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg. Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt that C&C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis. Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 Mk 1 S/V Orion 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Hi Chuck, I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well. I asked the yard to look at it. He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold weather we've been having. Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate that has been added to greater support the engine. However, it still has gotten some small cracks outside. I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this from happening again after I repair the gel coat. The metal backing plate is kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through the transom. The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass. The surveyor thought this to be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling. But to be honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom gel coat. I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps added in between the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount? Thanks for the help. Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well. Mark Mark McMenamy "Icicle" C&C 25 Fort Pierce FL On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hi Mark, Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1. I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, day sailor and weekend cruiser. If you’re just mounting the outboard and upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount. I upgraded from a 9.9 Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of Buzzards Bay. And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount. Bottom line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s larger outboards. I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW. We also have several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing. When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage. Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks. Same with hoses and hose clamps. Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing might keep your boat from sinking one day. Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below. Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag of that! Welcome to the C&C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction during the work day! Best, Chuck Gilchrest Half Magic 1975 25 Mk1 S/V Orion 1983 35 Landfall Padanaram, MA Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info Hi Ahmet, I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches. It also has new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard. That's all I have for a HIN. Mark On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions. New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the transom that actually shows the hull id. ? I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump. I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing winches. I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty. Ahmet On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hello, Thanks for the reply. It's ZCC255260976. I'm not quite sure how these forums work. Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing? I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging. It should be finished early next week. My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 so I appreciate the feedback. Thanks, Mark On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I just bought one last August and love it. A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974. What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web. Ahmet 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco" Winthrop, MA On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Hello, My name is Mark McMenamy. I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C&C 25 mk I as well as a new sailer.....I'm a reformed power boater. I was curious if anyone had information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her development. I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able to verify this. I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a little of her backstory. Thanks a million, Mark _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
