I moved my stations to the toerail when I bought my boat in 2000. I used one existing screw on the toerail and had to drill another one to mount the base. I made sure that they were lined up with an existing hole in the rail so I didn’t have to drill another hole for the screw that holds the stanchion into the base. When I sailed on Lake Ontario and removed the stations every fall for my winter tarp I had no problems removing those screws. Since I’ve been on the Atlantic and changed my tarp installation method I don’t have to remove the stations. After a couple years the screws will not come out of the base. I’ve had two bases crack and had to cut them apart to get them off the toerail. Luckily I had bought some used bases at a local club’s flea market and this time I drilled the hole for the screw that holds the stanchion larger so I could use a machine screw and a locknut on it. Now it won’t seize into the base and if it sticks I can just use a small punch to tap it out.
The added room that it makes on the decks is definitely worth the trouble. Rick Taillieu Nemesis '75 C&C 25 #371 Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via CnC-List Sent: January-25-16 20:46 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Ahmet Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail. I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut under the deck. It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on the aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later. In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room, and solid. Ahmet 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco" Winthrop, MA On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used the type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At the time I think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the $450 you mentioned. I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on each of the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long enough to handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and drill an additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to deck joint (which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer for backing and a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe rail for the (#10, IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the stanchion. All told, it took about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and it is a 2 man job to install the bolts through the hull to deck joint. My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old lifelines in the new installation, but YMMV. I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons: It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward – even though it is only about 5 inches on each side. The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are vertical but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that they thought the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which I believe was a problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the early 80s). On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the rail, so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft and drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions. And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than the deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the locations where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in the gelcoat, but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with resulting leaks into the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my projects for this coming season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots left behind by the old bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect to see any future deck repairs; at least in those areas. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers <blhick...@yahoo.com> Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt. Not the case said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this? My toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated. Barbara L. Hickson "Flight Risk" C&C 33-1 Chas., SC. _______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _____ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4522/11490 - Release Date: 01/26/16
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