It sounds like you have removed the track?  Have you excavated the holes?
I would.  You may find that any rot doesn't extend too far under.  I have
found that many of my original fittings have inadequate backing plates.

You could excavate the holes, refilled with thickened epoxy and then
ensured that you had sufficient backing plates.  Cracking on the sides of
the track could be side to side stress so a backer of sufficient WIDTH may
be needed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Feb 3, 2016 11:45 AM, "Petar Horvatic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I am getting ready to tackle the wet deck along the port genoa track and
> before I start cutting, I  have few questions for the group.
>
>
>
> Gelcoat cracks and delamination is appearing almost the length of the
> track on my 38 Mk2.   I realize that not all spider cracks are due to wet
> core, but there is some strong indication that at least  ¾ section of geona
> track area is rotten.   Namely, top deck is noticeably indented along the
> track from compression of backing plate and track screws.  I also remember
> that water was coming out of the tracks in areas where track was under
> load.    Especially area in the aft section.  I pulled the track off last
> night and there is strong oxidation along the aluminum backing plate where
> ss washers and nuts were.
>
>
>
> Any idea on how to determine how far athwartship to go when cutting out
> the top laminate?  I guess tap with a mallet?  Do people mostly save the
> top laminate or decide to lay new one from scratch?  I am also thinking
> that it would be better to cut the area so entire genoa track is included
> so that I don’t have to deal with potential of uneven surface between
> repair area and untouched area where genoa track lies.   I can foresee
> potential issues with the car not riding smoothly in area of that
> transition.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Petar Horvatic
>
> Sundowner
>
> 76 C&C 38MkII
>
> On the hard at Stanley’s in Barrington
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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